Just curious as to why no one has mentioned water injection if we are worried about carbon.... To some it is the best mod you could ever perform on the rotary. I run Royal Purple HPS with Zinc and blah blah with omp and 1oz per gal premix (idemitsu) in my FD. My plugs are perfect. I run a lot because I am running non oem apex seals and skurd of added wear. (To the arm chair quarterbacks Royal Purple was one of the 1st synthetics ever used in a rotary.. so yes it is ok). And to really get crazy I use 10w40 with and sometimes even throw in 1 qt of 20w50 to thicken it up... oh no!!! I am running running 14psi on some upgraded Hitachi twins and have the smallest nozzle on the AEM setup starting around 9psi and max at 14psi. Besides helping with knock, it steam cleans the whole motor constantly. *Premixing only with no omp one has to remember that when foot is off the gas the premix is off the metals. *using methanol will wash off your premix and omp added oil so becareful and use maybe klotz(spelling?)... something that methanol won't break down and wash off easily. Awesome channel man. Can't believe I never saw you before!!!
if you run water injection you MUST change your engine oil regulary as your sump oil will begin to turn to jelly,,, from mixing with your engine oil,, with water we run a water injecyion setup for what we do,, but we have to change oil every 2/3 events its a must
I have never really seen any jelling or anything in the oil. It gets changed way to often. I had to remove the turbos recently for an exhaust leak (2 broke studs on the manifold) and when I stuck a camera up the exhaust ports all looks absolutely beautiful, but you could see a little bit of gel like substance on the rotors. They were very clean though. Agree or not with my method of madness but, with how things look after 10k plus miles with after market seals I am very pleased. I just melted a fuse holder to my fuel pump though lol
Been building and modifying rotaries for over 30yrs and always seen better results with pre-mix.. Use quality 2stroke oil.. Its spreads evenly on apex seals and side seals
Hey, Rad. Another option is an Omp sandwich plate adapter by Rotary Aviation. This allows you to feed fresh cool two-stroke oil from a separate reservoir in your engine bay straight to your OMP rather than it suck up your sump oil. We recently installed one on my girlfriends S5 RX7, I'd be happy to share photos with you if you're interested in learning more. My mate who has been building engines for years now swears by this technique, it's the best of both worlds, half way between premixing and factory Omp.
One thing that is not mentioned here is something Rob Dahm said recently. The oil you put in the engine ex. 10w-40 is meant to withstand high temperatures and not to be mixed and burnt in a combustion chamber. It's harder to ignite and leaves behind deposits. That's why some people like to delete the OMP or use an adapter with a reservoir to make the OMP feed premix oil in the combustion chamber for easier and cleaner ignition and protection.
@@joogullae3456 Oil Metering Pump. It's essentially a little pump the squirts a small amount of engine oil into the combustion chamber to help lubricate the housings etc.
@@spyrossigalas3310 aahhh thanks man. You're the best. I thought it may have meant that since the video guy kept saying it but I wasn't sure if it was a certain brand or not.
Not only that, Dahm mentioned that as your engine oil becomes dirtier and dirtier....guess what gets injected into your combustion chamber? I use Amsoil Saber since it burns clean is designed for 100:1
Hi from good old germany😉 cool video👍 I am driving a 1.gen SA 12a using the oil metering pump but modified by using 2 stroke oil from a seperate tank. My car is a low milage one with a clean engine.
@@RADPotential i really enjoy the raw videos, feels as if im actually popping down to see someone with actual knowledge and a tech talk rather than being pumped info relating to money and business profits haha! Thanks again man! Also on a side note have you got much experience with boosted renesis engines? Long story short i would love a rew but the budget currently leans to the renesis( have two in the garage) and im getting real impatient now to crack on with the project car🤣
The no longer make the sohn adapter for 12a engines, however I hear you can modify the MOP to draw from separate premix tank. You should make a video on how to perform this mod.
Bro I have a playlist called " Future car"thats for my r3 in a year that I'm saving every penny for from my paychecks and 3/4 of those videos are yours lol
I ran 250ml of premix per full tank in my Rx8 (works out at about 2/3oz/gal) for several years, increased to 350ml per tank (about 1oz/gal) when I noticed my sump oil level wasn't changing, as I suspected I had one or more blocked oil injectors. I had been using castrol 2T oil for premix, but switched to Mobil 2T oil because the price had dropped and noticed a few tanks of fuel later that my sump oil level had started moving again. I think the Mobil oil had cleaned out whatever had blocked my injectors, so the quality of premix oil matters as much as the amount in many ways.
I premixed my engine. it makes me feel better. Especially since the oil-metering system can be tetchy on long motorway runs. I've been running 200:1 ratio. The engine seems to run better on that - it's not load-transmitting lubrication like on a 2-stroke crank-case or piston. The engine got cracked a few weeks ago and was in great condition inside - but that was unknown mileage since it'd come from a previous car. --- I think my injector jets are clogging. It uses very little oil.
Hi Rad. Fascinating video, as always. I'm about to buy a 2009 R3, which has the series 2 engine, and therefore a 3rd oil injection nozzle to help internal lubrication. Would you recommend pre-mixing for this engine as well? The car is completely stock, and has 52,200 miles.
I agree with your ideas for sure. I daily drive my RX8 and do not premix. I have a catalytic converter because I have to do yearly emission tests, so i don’t feel comfortable putting even more premix through my exhaust (I just had to buy a OEM RX8 1200 dollar cat). Definitely think changing your oil more often is for sure the best thing you can do. A lot of people fight about the synthetic oil debate as well, and i think since we change our oil so often and burn it off, synthetic is not really worth it. In the instance that someone does hard track driving, then i would agree putting more premix (0.5oz seems perfect) would be a good idea. If you are just doing track only, then yeah no cat, full premix (1oz maybe 1.5oz), synthetic oil, and no omp would be ideal i think.
Nice explanation RAD potential- just scored a period correct 13B out of a running 74 RX-4 (albeit he said it was smoking a fair amount) for my 75' Cosmo. Plus it was a freebie so basically a unicorn haha. However due to this he kept the front cover and oil pan. Will a front cover from a 77' RX-3 SP 12A or 72' RX-2 12A fit? And if so, what about the oil metering pump? Probably stuck trying to find a 13B set-up but was just curious- (maybe there are some later model 13B front covers that fit as well?). Also can I wait a month or two before tearing the motor down to avoid damage from the coolant? Thnx in advance brotha!
I think one thing I'd like to see addressed on this topic is whether excessive pre-mixing can cause issues in places where you need to pass emissions and if it can effect your catalytic converter by, for example, clogging it with excess carbon. Otherwise, phenomenal information!
@@RADPotential it would do the same as a overoiled dirtbike... it would eventually fill the cat with half burnt oil and stop it from doing its purpose and take away from exhaust flow and resonance all the while reducing performance...more oil less fuel and air in same space...the more lean a 2 stroke runs on oil the better it runs...until it doesn't.
I love how you have every different version of things just laying around... here's the later model, here's the newer model... here's a secret one Mazda is working on for 2026 launch... lol
I have owed two '79RX7 and now just bought an 06RX8, when I had the RX7's the first one had been on the track and had after market swaybar and after market suspension the race engine had been replaced with a stock jim motor with 30K on it. I was given another 79 that had a jim motor also. I found a product called XADO, that I put in a 79 F-250 3/4 ton pick up that really did a fine job restoring the compression. The XADO is a ferro ceramic technology developed in Russia that grows on the wear surfaces and builds both weight and dimension that is a 9.5 on the moas scale in hardness . That old F250 had God knows how many miles on it, the engine a 6.9 International non Turbo V8 was taking 4-5 attempts each morning to get it started in the summer. I bought one tube $33.00 1/3 of what would fully rejuvenate the motor because I was broke and planned on getting the other two tubes on payday. these tubes were about the size of a tube of Blistex, small. I squeezed out the contents into the oil filler. I logged about 300 miles that day and the next morning it started as if the engine was new two turns if that and it started. I flashed back to the RX7 and thought this product would be perfect for the rotary engine, it builds a ruby hard coating protecting the parts from wear and won't void warranties on new vehicles so your engine won't wear at all ! They have oil and grease also tranny and rear end products as well. My RX8 had 98K clocked when I bought it, I put it in the crank case oil then logged about 3000 miles ovet about 1.5 months and the power gains were and smooth running engine was impressive to say the least. I have it in every rig I own, no metal to metal contact means up to 50,000 miles between oil changes because the oil stays so clean. try it you'll like it.
I have used XADO for over ten years, having owned two RX7 models one had a oil leak that turned out to be the connecting rubber tube off the metering pump, there were two tubes that pumped crankcase oil into each throat of the carb on the 12A '79 model. The one that leaked caused one rotor to lose compression. Had I known of XADO then I don't believe the engine would have failed, due to the ferro ceramic protection of the product that grows off of any surface where friction occurs. I believe it is the ticket for longevity in rotary engines. by mixing the xado two stroke oil in the fuel or using their regular crank case oil, both have the same ferro ceramic technology. I have noticed improved low end torque and smooth idle so far, and plan to use the oil and mix in the fuel and its my daily driver, it just turned 100K so it's a perfect test car. so far so good, I hope to see 300K or more with no lose of compression. just search for the distributor in Wichita Kansas and read the testimonials from people like me. @@arvin6606
Castrol 10w-30, southeastern temps. Lucas 2stroke-oil 1oz/gal of 93/90non ethanol fuel. Stock motor, leaky OMP. Leaky pan. Good spark. 146k, S5 NA. Starts right up, loves getting ragged, no idea metrics but not a single combustion hiccup. Rips smooth to redline. Little puff of blue smoke that disappear once gets closer to operating temps. Previous owner said he never premixed. Been plenty of times where I modulate up or down depending on driving intentions and oil capacity/quality. Car likes cooler humid mornings, idk if that has anything to do with steam. I’m no expert. But in summary, compression seems healthy, revs smooth, pretty much no smoke, .5-1.0oz/gal, maybe some injector cleaner to convince myself the little molecular fairies are putting in overtime on carbon deposits
Here's the thing my daily driver 04 RX8 just turned over 130k on original S1 engine. I've had it since 2012 4k miles. Never premixed a day in it's life I check compression every 6 months since 50k at 120k I was 120 psi on both rotors at 129k I was at 115 R1 and 105 at R2 I'm building a New engine next weekend. I am a mechanic and I used royal purple it's entire life also changed ignition coils every 10k miles then switched to LS1 ignition coils and replaced them every 15k miles. I noticed even the revised ignition coils through Mazda are garbage I've had some not even last a month. Anyway I go on 150 mile straight through trip once a month and I leave around 5 am in the morning during summer and anytime in the winter and I'd run semi the first leg and run the dog shit outta of it for sprints at a time 3 and 4th gear all the way out the last leg and with a bore scope the difference between what it looked like before and after big difference but I've done this religiously since 4K so build up always stays the same. Anyway going to put a new engine together clean my original and put it in a case and keep it forever because the memories and miles I've have with this engine is to sentimental to ever get rid of or even rebuild it deserves to be unchanged I am going to tear it down to clean and just see what it looks like I was 22 when I bought the car.. send me you're email and I'm send pics from what it looks like when I open it
Thanks for this video. I'm rebuilding my 13b now with a working OMP and was planning to premix 1oz per gallon and never thought of the extra carbon buildup it can cause. Going to go with 1/2 oz per gallon
my son recently bought a 1995 RX7 it has a oil feed the previous owner told him to add pemix in the gas he ended up mixing too much oil in the gas causing spark plugs to fowl up The car is running very rough a lot of smoke out the mufflers and stop running I took the spark plug out replace them it’s Ryan really good for very short time and figure it out there’s too much oil in the gas I drain the tank and I’m going to put. gas in it with no premix will it burn off the car carbon Buildup hopefully it will run better run if not how do you clean out the carbon buildup
Hey rad I'm building my 13b rx8 engine and using atkins cryo treated apex seals would I be better off prefixing . 25 Oz per gallon while breaking the engine in and then after the break in period going up to .5?
I think the s2 RX8 engines got it right. 3 oil injectors to evenly distribute the oil. I'm only a few 100 miles away from crossing the 100k mile mark on my 2010 R3. I drive it hard most of the time since the heat helps break down carbon deposits, I don't premix, and I change the oil every 3-4k miles with 5w-30 castrol oil mostly. I go through around a quart of oil every 1k miles. I've put 55k miles on it myself so it will be interesting to see how far I can take this engine.
Is 5W30 thick enough for the Renesis? I've always used 20W50 in my S3 and S4's, and I live in Canada (I don't winter drive tho). I know Mazda probably recommends less than a 20W50 for "emissions" but in reality aren't you going to accelerate wear on the bearings, especially with the increased 9k redline?
@@plav032 Most rotary engine builders recommend 5-30 from what I’ve seen. Mazda recommends 5-20 in the US but 5-30 everywhere else for the RX8. Lots of different engines run much lower weight oils though. But idk, 5-30 seems to be pretty good so far.
@@plav032 I also live in the south-east US so we don’t get super cold temps. It’s pretty hot here most of the year. Like 80,90 degrees Fahrenheit. I probably could run a thicker oil, but I’ve mostly seen 5-30 recommended
Too much oil actually reduces the octane rating of fuel and especially in forced induction applications can lead to detonation. Smoke and deposits as you discussed can also lead to uneven hot spots and detonation. I only use mineral oil in my Rotary Engines. 20/60 Penrite HPR60 high zinc. It's Australian made and the temps are warm to hot so despite owning an FD I still run the thicker oil. I haven't touched the OMP and regularly check oil levels. I barely drive the car (it's actually the last registered FD RX-7 sold in Australia). Having said that I still premix about 2.4oz per tank of synthetic Silkoline Kart racing castor (mainly for the smell and reduced deposits compared to natural castor oil) Here's something I have always wanted to do and if I ever get a brand-new motor I will run water injection purely for the cleaning benefits. Years ago (15) I knew a builder who personally ran it and explained that the steam during combustion kept the motor crystal clean. We've all heard about steam cleaning or seafoaming motors (I have run distilled water very carefully in a controlled manner through the motor) which decarbs. My motor idled better and was a lot smoother (do not take this as advice to do so) hence why I would love to run water injection. Your explanation is sensational. This channel is great. I applaud your style and look forward to more of your content. Have you ever done a video on an FD bushing replacement PPF and suspension?
Thanks man!! That is some epic information. I'd love to try some of those things in some of my personal builds. See what impact it has!! I dont have a video on the FD bushings, my buddy who owns this black one wants me to do that work at some point lol. I havent given him a price yet
I just found your channel after months of loving a rotary. Where were you!!! haha. Anyway, I have a question. I am in love with Fc's and I do have another car for a daily so as I project a car I would love to buy a rotary as my first enthusiast car, obviously everyone says they are bad ie. online, but I am connected with them. Any tips for new owners and I will definitely watch all your videos! Other than the make sure the car is warm and don't beat on it unitl the temps are correct and no short trips, like there are so many things to do premix as well. I would love a video like that! Thanks and have a great day!
Thanks for the info! Is there a way to tell if the system is working. I just bought an 83 RX7 with a 12a carburetor. I don’t have any history on the car so no idea if the system is working.
if anything the one benefit pre-mixing has over the omp is the elimination of dirty oil. Dirty oil effectively acts like sandpaper, as the dirtier the oil gets the more contaminants to get into your sidewalls and it causes wear. I'm 100% sure a lack of timely oil changes is the culprit and NOT the omp , people might skip an oil change and they are effectively sanding the life of the engine. Probably why the guy who tracked his rx8 had a nice engine. He probably changed the oil every track day so he had pre-3000-mile oil changes. Also rev your car up to 7k once a week on Idle , fuck stressing your trans and gearbox out, just rev it to 7k for half a second a few times in a row, that should take care of the carbon . Rx7's ARE NOT meant to be babied my friends, rotarys don't like it
If you run the OMP you cannot use synthetic oil as it doesn't combust well. Of you have deleted the OMP then you are able to run a synthetic oil as it is just being used as a bearing lubrication and cooling
Something I haven't seen people talking about is how, when using the OMP, you have to compromise on the oil. Newer, better oils that lubricate better tend to burn dirtier and oils that burn cleaner tend to not lubricate as well so it could be best to remove the OMP, use a better lubricating oil for the main oil and premix with an oil that burns better, i.e. premix oil, and get the best of both worlds. I don't own a rotary but I am looking into buying an RX-7 so this is based on online research so I am interested to hear other opinions from people who know better than me.
Best situation. Block off the OMP. Run a good engine oil, and go full premix. Better lubrication dispersion In the housings that way. You can find quality engine oils that burn as premix. But I tend to premix all the time regardless of the OMP. You never know when it could fail
@@RADPotential Thanks for such a quick reply on a year old video. I found your channel recently and I have to say you make great, very informative videos. Do you have any experience with rotary cars like that, without the OMP and full premix. If so, is it markedly better and are there any trade offs. Also, if 1/2 ounce per gallon with an OMP is good, is 1 ounce per gallon without good, too little, or too much. Thanks
I run everything I own with no OMP (1 oz per gallon) and only premix besides my rx8, the rx8 I left the OMP on and I premix .5 oz per gallon for street driving. 1 oz per gallon at the track.
How can I determine if my OMP is functioning? Thanks for any help. 83 12a stock. The guy I bought it from said he rebuilt the carb, but I've already come across several flubs.
Excellent honest info Related but unrelated I've heard SOME of the reason why diesels last so long is the fuel has high lubrication property's Yes I know they are built heavy duty And are low rpm revving Everyone has heard of the old shade tree red neck tune up trick of running a lil auto transmission fluid in there gas in a piston engine It has high detergents to clean and oil the fuel pump injectors
Any 2 cycle will work. Penzoil marine stuff is what I have been using since I go through so much of it. Can get it by the gallon lol. Engine oil. Always run conventional if you have the OMP functioning.
I premixed for 5 years, removed the engine to Bridgeport and found no wear, it almost looked better. I premixed maxima premix 150ml to 13 gallons. I had good results, but not sure if I was correct. I could tell the difference of how loose the engine felt with different oil brands.
We have used the pre mix, formula off 10/1 for over 20years so 10ml to 1litre fuel and have seen no engine damage at all in any engines,,, with the engines we have a omp pump 3/5ml to 1litre fuel,, and have no issues you have to take into consideration thou that the rx8 models over 06 dont need to be premixed at all as mazda installed 6lines to feed the engine any model rx8 pre 06 only have 4 and have been known to be not enough oil and also malfucnction,, but constantly changing your engine oil to your engine is the key to a succesful long engine life,,, if you put to much in hou itl start clogging your injectors and sparkplugs,
I disassembled my FC NA engine today out of my airplane with 600 hours (~25,000 miles; I guess if automotive for time) 15 years of running 99% of time at 5500 rpm continuously and very near or at WOT runs about 10 gallons per hour (aircraft speak). No metering pump; I ran 4oz in 5 gallons (160:1) rather than the 1oz to 1 gallon (128:1). 6000 gallons of fuel which would be about 90k miles in a car! The side housings showed ZERO wear and pretty much zero wear on the rotor housings; except for the slightest ghosting of chatter marks, nothing I could feel but you could see them with the right light. Using cheap full synthetic 2 stroke oil (think Walmart) I would love to see a video on identifying rotors from the FC/FD different years - mostly for picking compression ratios.
@@BrianGochnauer sounds dangerous but cool. What happens on a small plane if there's mechanical failure? Do you have like a parachute ready just incase?
Got a 80,000 mile 12a for 10 years should premix? Also have another build in works does transmission make difference from 12a to 13b? All I have are 12 parts
Premix all the things IMO. Except maybe a bone stock rx8. As far as transmissions. 12a-13b do have differences in gear ratio and internal bits. I have found the FC 13b trans to shift better at high rpm than a 12a trans. Look at the gear ratio charts. I think on mazdatrix website and pick the one more suited to you. I know the FC trans have a closer 1st to 3rd and a overall shorter final drive than the 12a stuff IIRC
Okay bit a concern, I'm going to get a rx7 with a 12a it's stock, let's say you delete the omp and premix your fuel every time perfectly, when you let off the throttle and the carb isn't spitting fuel Into the engine, wouldn't it also have no lubrication left? Would it not be better to have the stock pump and just have it suck out of a tank, since it puts the right amount of oil whenever it needs it no matter the rpm or throttle position?
Do you have any opinions on mineral vs synthetic vs race castor oil? I'm running a 12a bridgeport (video on my channel) Also have you thought about a RAD Potential facebook group?
And I have another simple question. How are you supposed to replace the front and rear main seals with the engine apart? I can’t seem to figure that out lol
I use synthetic in the sump and synthetic 2 cycle premix in fuel and no injection system for use in an experimental aircraft that has a constant duty cycle at of between 6 & 7000 rpm...Do you have any opinion on my choice of oil for this use ?
In my rx8 I use rotella t6 15/40 and a lil more or less than 1/2 oz per gallon pre mix I use idemitsu but my rx7s our down right now so it's just the rx 8 drinking it
Aircraft have a slightly different oil need due to often long periods of no use compared with a daily . I thinks it's so.ething to do with moisture in the crankcase. Google is your friend.
I use 4oz per tank on an '04 RX-8 6 port. Any thoughts? It seems a lot lower than what you're saying but I do still have a stock omp with no sohn adapter
For real you can make any engine last half a million miles with good oil and regular oil changes. For premix id only use smoke-free fully synthetic 2 stroke oil
so thats 29.5ml per 3.79liters which makes 7.78ml per liter in the "1 ounce" mix, or 3,89 ml in the "half ounce" mix it's hard to wrap my head around the american units.
Just to know: On S2 Rx8, there are well 6 oil injectors. But they don’t have any vacuum. They work different than all previous oil injectors. On S2, oil injection system work by pressure (approximately 1bar/1,5bar need to look back in the documents) After listening your video, I can confirm you that I have the same feeling than you about premix. And I can add too, the better way to use rotary engines is to drive drive drive a lot and longtime. I can also add with my experience of driving, I drove my RX8 around France 2000+ miles for 10 days then I compression test back and I was surprised to see I won almost 3bar more (premix 100/150ml putoline (for ethanol) with ethanol fuel e85)
Hi guys very late comment I know but What do you premix with? I’m flying to Japan early next year (because I can import two FD Rx7s for the price of one here in Australia) these cars will be driven on the odd occasion as I’ll have to trailer them out of town… long story short there’s a lot of indigenous kids that like to throw rocks or even sling shot them at cars and I don’t feel like coping charges 😂 I plan to build one of them for the track and keep the other for local car cruises/events. Does the purpose matter when premixing a rotary?
