Absolutely.. that's exactly what I have done for years. B&W film processing chemicals are the least expensive component of the entire photographic project. The old saying applies: "Why spoil a ship for a penneth of tar." ... 🤝
Fixing is something weird to me. It is a thing i have to put a chunk of faith into. At least that are my feelings. When it comes to Developer - i can see if it works or not. Stop - i can easyly test it out with indicator paper (as you just have shown). Film fixing is the same - i can see the results. But fixing paper is hard (for me) to control. Same is the use of hypoclear and the washing method. I have to trust given times and recommendations. And i don't know if i messed something up. I have to wait years to see my fails :D ...but luckily there is a guy on the internet that is giving some lessons. Thats great. Thank you ;) edit: there is a phenomenon going on when i wash my Fiber Paper. It feels slippery when i move it around. And after a long time this slipperyness fades away and the surface of the emulsion side feels a slight bit more grippy. Is that the fixer slowly being washed out?
I tend to use two bath fixing like 2x clearing time in bath one and fresh clearing time in fresh fixer. That basically adds up to 3x clearing time. Especially with film this allows me to really use up the 1st fixer without a risk of residue. When 1st fixer is done (lclearing time 2x or 3x fresh one), rotate 2nd fixer to 1st and so on. So much better than guessing if fixer is fresh enough. Counting films is also guessing, because you have random amount of silver to dissolve depending on exposure and scene. I think two bath method adds almost no extra work and is a good practice. Oh, sodium carbonate (washing soda) can also be used as a hypo clear, again about teaspoon or 20g/liter. (I think you recommended only sulfite and bicarbonate on video). It can be cheaper and more easily available. At least I can pick it up at local store in large packs unlike sulfite that I have to order or baking soda that is sold in tiny packages.
Another great video, John, with lots of useful advice. It's been a while since we last communicated but needless to say, I'm still thoroughly enjoying the process (currently experimenting with Pan F) and now rent a darkroom space for printing. Two bath fix, archival washer, screen rack drying. Nothing beats a FB print! All the best and look forward to the next one.
Great. Lloyd Erlick used the same system and even one tray development by putting back all liquids in the canisters before washing and refilling it with some other liquid.
Cheers John - another one filled with very helpful information. I never bother with a stop bath, preferring plain water rinses for both film and paper - but I always use two fixing baths. I use selenium for FB prints but don't bather for the plastic stuff. I'm 75 so prints don't need to last very long to see me out. Ha! I don't care what happens to 'em afterwards. Thanks and best wishes as usual from the Rhondda.
Thanks for this video, i used 2 bath fixer too, i usually use baking soda like wash aid for 2 mins on fibre paper, works for me but i didn't know about adostab, i might get a bottle 😊 thank again😊
Many thanks John for this video - it is very instructive to me - I will it to review the way I do fixing and archival washing - just two questions : 1. Now I am using ADOX Thio-Clear ECO after fixing to eliminate residu of fixer. Then I wash film for 10 min and fb paper for an hour. Is this good practise? 2. Also how do you test/check when fix bath 1 has to be discarded? I also want you to know that your videos are very good and helpful to improve my way of working in creating photos!!! Thanks for this - very much appreciated!!
Hi Dirk! Thanks for your comment. Your workflow sounds very good. Stick with it and I think you will be in a good place. To know when your first fix bath is finished just note how many papers you put through it. I have a post-it note on the wall and write (in pencil) how many sheets I processed that day. When they add up to near the maximum for the fix I discard and move bath 2 to bath 1. There used to be silver test kits but I haven't seen one for an age. If you're not sure how many papers you have put through your fix bath 1 I would discard bath1 and swap for bath 2 and start again - that way you are only throwing away 1 Ltr. Thank you again for your kind comment!
A worthwhile video once again. I use the 2 bath method of fixing for prints in my Nova 4 slot processor and feel that it is both economical and worthwhile archivally as you describe . As I only use RC paper I feel that wash aid and any washing beyond about 3 mins in running water is probably unnecessary for me. Same kind of question from me but on the re-use of Adostab rather than wash-aid . Can Adostab be re-used for more than one print? Thanks
Hi John, Lowe here from London. Thanks for yet another fantastic video! What are your thoughts on selenium toning prints after they've dried, is it okay to soak the paper (FB) in water and then tone it?
Since I don't go to the darkroom often I wonder how much would the mixed fixer last (apart from the 40 prints). I usually work long hours two days in a row, so I mix fresh developer the first day and then discard it after the second day. I'm considering including your routine in my workflow though! Thanks again for another great video.