Watching how you replaced the differential with a solid axle may have solved my problem of how to install hydraulic brakes on my racing mower. Very much appreciated sir!
I must admit...I really have no idea what you're doing for the most part but I can listen to someone who's passionate about what they do all day long....great vid
Nice. I've built many 600 transaxles.. Those were locked with a wheel center cut and welded into the big gear and axle keyed to that. Now a day's, they are get much harder to find and I just picked up a free 820. I knew the had to be an easy way to run a live axle and you have saved me a lot of head scratching. Thanks for the info, very helpful!
Super job on that one my man. I love those drill bits, I keep wishing I had gotten the entire set right from the start because after a couple of them I could have had the set.
I locked two Peerless 820's. The first one I used the original axles [which are hardened steel) and locked it with two special made "diffy lock"gears I purchased from Rom's Peerless. The diffy lock gears were made of the same hardness steel as the original spider gears. On the second Peerless 820 I took the bull gear and side plates bolted together to a machine shop and had them drill the side plates to one inch diameter and had them them also put a 1/4" key in each side plate in alignment. I believe it cost $60 and they did a perfect job. I used the Asuza hardened one inch flex proof axle which has about the same hardness as the original Peerless axles. If you use the standard Azusa axle, the needle bearings will wreak havoc on the axle and damage the axle surface causing needle bearing failure. I used double split steel lock collars on the ends. I supplemented the Bentonite grease with plenty of Green Grease which is pricey but worth the money
I had assumed that to cut a keyway in bar you needed a miller, until the other day. I was using the shank off and old 3/4 drill bit as a a rotating tool in a new swaging machine I was building at work. I used one of those new thin slitting disks to cut the slot sides and then ground out the middle. Admittedly the slot doesn't finish with nice rounded ends, but I figure that is irrelevant. We did have those really hard tools to do the lathe part, but I have done that with an angle grinder with the part in a drill press. Thanks for the vid :o)
this is awesome... I used a design like this on my first tractor I ever modified.. an old 6 hp sears front engine mini tractor with a 3speed foote.. it was a chain drive diff housing I put on a solid 3/4 shaft using a pulley hub and weld on keys it came out just like this only smaller.. fitting stuff like that's not easy I wish I had a doc locker vid to lmk every part I needed for that one before hand
I did this and marked my bearing locations and ran a bead of weld on the key way just where the bearings were and ground the weld down and I have no oil leak at all.
Seems to me like the stronger way to lock the diff. I've watched all the doc locker videos I could find and will definitely do this when I build a new off road mower. If I RU-vid it like I plan I'll be sure to use your name and drop a link
Rodman Lyons good deal there, seems like people around here hang onto those till they are scrap, cause I usually see them totally stripped in the scrap and boneyards.
MrTheHillfolk Get on Facebook, and craigslist. That's how I find alot of my tractors. Also check out sprockets garage, wrenching and building, and other groups on Facebook. Gobs of good people in those 2 groups for sure.
Rodman Lyons yea I do some of that , when I get the chance. Heh, I just gotta ask !😬 I've got a few other projects I do the same thing with, scout the internets and Craigslist and stuff. I'd like to find one local, although if I'd ship one I'd have an easier time.
I really enjoy your vids. Would like to put front loader on my mower but don't know how to install pump with vertical shaft motor. Would love to see you build a front loader
Just thought of a simple way to center the hub to tack weld. Use the old axle with the wheel hub, stand up vertical and slide all the components onto it. Perfect alignment..
Wouldn't it make more sense to attach one of the side covers and use the 1" rod to center the piece you are welding? I mean why guess when you don't have to?
before i welded my gears i tried to get stretch on the forum to machine my halfs out being the biggest issues. he said that his friend had a big lathe i believe, but since it is hardened steel he bought the cutting bits. seemed like a big hassle so i locked it myself. going strong, but to widen the rear track width, it would have been nice
redlinemotorsportts Yes. Stretch and I discussed this in a Messenger voice call the other day. He told me that as well. I don't know what to say. These really did drill easily.
One of my side plates seemed to drill like mild steel with long ribbons, the other (the threaded one) drilled like hardened steel or tool steel as it had fine millings, I centered with a 7/8" bit then slowly bored @250 rpm with a steady stream of cutting fluid with the 1" bit skipping the 15/16 bit (only because I have a monster drill press and I'm accustomed to boring very large holes (up to 3") but they are concentric)
Hey Doc, I was just wondering what wattage your generator is rated for? I have a 4500 starting watt and was wondering if that would run a small wire welder
I have an mst 206 that I had to do a little grindage to the case becuase one of the axle shafts were bent just so small that it would not turn all the way
I have a question for you on the needle bearings didn't the keyway ruin the inner race on the needle bearings run on next to the differential housing when running a straight axle that has a solid key shaft
Yes, it's a functional idea. I do not have the equipment to do so. I figured that if I managed to avoid sending it to a machine shop to drill out the side plates, then I'd find a way to avoid hiving a shop broach the keyways. No sense sending it out for one job but not both. Conversely, I made up my mind early that if I was unable to drill them myself, I'd get a shop to perform both tasks.
Doc. I have yard machine lawn tractor that my cousin's stepdad gave me, I know nothing about yard machine tractors what kind of transaxle is in it? What would be the best way way to lock the diff?
Hambone's Garage If it's an mtd style mower, they have a goofy trans setup where they vary the input speed with a variator(think torque converter/kart setup) and the trans just has forward neutral reverse. Some giveaways on those could be if it says it has a 7 speed, 6 speeds or more are usually mtds. The mower could be swapped to a more normal transmission if it has that FNR setup.
Doc's strikes again the 2.0 was a success and 820 is a success as well you should make up about a dozen of those and sell them for $300 a piece I bet you could sell them all on eBay put your video in the description of what you're selling and get a patent right now
Equipment. In order to do it properly, you need an arbor press and a broaching set. I have neither. It's fairly easy to use a Dremel and a couple of bits to cut a keyway into a shaft- I have done that many times. It is a lot more difficult to cut a perfect 1/4" slot across the inside of a 1" hole. Now- I briefly debated farming it out, but I'm a DIY guy. If I cannot do it, I try to find another way of attacking something, in a way that I CAN do.
Another way I have seen this done is by drilling out the hole to an inch and broaching a key way in the hubs. then drilling and tapping holes for a set screw. many different ways to skin a cat.
Sprocket's Garage exactly I forget to mention that. Your method is way easier for us regular guys. while the other method you need a whole bunch of specialized tools. Anyways keep up the good work I'm loving this build.
Harrison Rohm exactly what I was thinking. Darron and I tried extending his and failed miserably. Fortunately I found an 820 from a Murray that was a direct bolt in on mine. I will be locking it with this method.
@@DocSprocket How about broaching a keyway into the end plates to match the one in the axle, and using key stock and no welding? Drill and tap them for set screws of course.
