Dodge 3.9 magnum rough idle, black soot, rich fuel smell, no check engine light, stalling problem 

I appreciate your analysis and diagnosis of your problem. I too suffer from.. ..the disbelief of professionals. I'm an old man.. I inherited a Dodge Dakota with similar symptoms. You are very correct in your description of.. 'don't fix, what is working'. I am almost 70 years old. This truck suffered from neglect. I have made this, "Magnum 6" destroy back tires, without trying. There is a lot of fun and safety here. I will... follow up on your fine advice....

Thanks for the info, just changed the sensor and it sure made a big difference, truck is not idling rough anymore and engine is not shaking.

Valley pan gasket under intake manifold. It deteriorates causing vacuum issues and oil consumption. This will cause stalling . These motors are pretty much the same 3.9 5.2 5.9 all have the same issue

Wow what coincidence, just got thro replacing a few that you mentioned, no check engine light, is what stopped me from spending more, that hose had been leeking for some time, and is really cruddy down thier, thx for the info!

I had this exact same thing and I did an engine swap. Put a 318 magnum in it because I thought it was a bad engine. Lots of money later.. lol

I have a 99 dakota with a 3.9L V6, having that same issue right now. Keeps stalling out, and I went through a whole tank of gas just to go home from work today. I replaced the injectors, spark plugs, the intake hose, air filter, fuel pump. All that. And it only gets better for 5 minutes until it gives up on life 😂😅

My truck doing the same shit checked the coolant sensor cleaned it and its running smooth this helped so much..will get it changed tomorrow

Check your 02 upstream sensor or TPS or IAC & you'll be fine

Anyone with a Chrysler/Dodge/Ram/Jeep etc from 1996 1997 1998 1999 etc with the jtec style computer (the same ones in the '98 Dodge Dakota), there is a simple solution to the random rough idle and stalling issues. Remove the left torx screw on the PCM computer, add two washers and then replace the screw. Can do the same with the other side, but do them one at a time. The screw seems to be just long enough to eventually ground out a component inside the computer and cause the engine to stall out. Didn't believe it myself, but when I pressed on the screw there in the front the engine died and backing the screw out fixed the issue. On warm days or once the engine was warmed up, the thermal expansion must have been just enough to momentarily ground the component.

Thank you this helped, I got a 92 Dakota doin the same thing.

I was to replacing the injectors .. my coolent sensor is broken from a fken leak ....I had my hand on it 50 times ty sir !

Could be the "icm?" Its under the rotor in the disributor, mine wouldnt start, stalled out and PISSED ME OFF!! LOL.. but i changed that and the iac... Cleaned with carb cleaner and its much better now!!!

I have an 02 doing the same thing going to check that sensor ASAP thanks for the tips since I did pretty much the same things you did

Thanks good tip you are never to old to learn

I have the same problem with my 95 b1500 i did everything you mentioned but the coolant temperature sensor i will try that next thanks for the video

Good video. Missed a few parts skipping over the "uuuuuhh"

I did about everything you did to my 2000 Dodge Ram 1500 . No check engine light . Same deal you had . So i hope this is what is wrong with mine . I’m going to take a look at it tomorrow. Thanks so much for this video ! People don’t know how much trouble shooting you have to go through . You said I did this and this and this and I said me too . Lol . I will give you an update when I get time to check mine .

Great video mine runs like crap when it's cold once it warms up perfect I can't figure it out but I'll try it

So 2 things 1 get a can of throttle body cleaner at Walmart 2 bucks and spray your throttle body inside and out use the whole can make sure engine is cold 2 check battery connection on all negative grounds from battery any look damaged replace Any car u have that's hard to start ruff idle please just clean throttle body inside and out open the butterfly spray all inside use whole can it will be hard to start at first when it starts to go give lots of gas I mean donkey kick that gas pedal

lm literally going through the same thing with my 03 Dakota. Oreilly clerk randomly suggested the coolant temp sensor and sure enough it worked. After I replaced everything else! Keeping the TPS sensor clean of carbon deposits around it made a noticeable difference. And the throttle intake clean of carbon deposits so it will idle and slowly accelerate without stalling.

The vacuum line that your friend broke goes right underneath the 2 heater core lines goes into fire wall u will see it under there mine was broke once I flushed the core I seen it and guess I was right lol got to switch between my vent controls

99 dodge Dakota sport 4x4 3.9 and yupp same problem been changing everything coil plugs wires distributer no check engine either,I'll try it tomarrow and let you know runs good once warmed up but miss fires and runs like hell when cold

I miss my 68 Chevy, much easier to figure out, my dodge drives me crazy

Guys I have the same problem with 3.9 98 and I almost lost hope. I've changed: map sensor, throttle sensor, idle sensor, crank position sensor, 2x O2 sensor AND coolant sensor.Nothing changed. Tomorrow I will change IAT and camshaft sensor.

I took off all those crazy hose clamps and put on more reliable worm clamps. And i didnt have to change any hoses

Just checking is your truck running good now since you fixed that water temp.. I replace the waterpump on mine radiator all the hoses and that damn things acting funny again and I went to one of my buddies today he's a mechanic too me myself I don't do much mechanic anymore for a long time because healthwise and over time you do forget but some things I do remember but this new stuff I get lost on

Crank position sensor has nothing to do with fuel trim but I can see why you changed it out since it was dying on you

Me and my girls 2001 has this exact problem I hope this is it's exact fix

Did the sensor make make miss and run rough when it was cold until it warmed up, Joey from Statesville NC

mine ecu was collapsing ..had to replace it with a new one.. hasnt stallled since

Same problem, but mine was the Idle Air Control valve. IAC

load the parts cannon and go on the forums lol

All signs point to idle speed control. It won't give you a code until it totally fails.

I have the same truck and year just started having the same problem will try this! PS do you still have the truck and did it solve your issue?

Sounds like it was the idle air control valve located backside of throttle body facing the firewall

My '01 RAM B1500 van , same engine starts up fine but starts popping, cracking and backfiring about 1 minute after if I start it 30 minutes to 3 hours after a hot start. I can shut the engine off and restart or hold the throttle to the floor until whatever is going on with it goes away. No OBD II codes. I thought it was a lean condition but the other day I smelled gas like it's actually flooding out. It never does this on a cold start or if I restart the engine within 15 minutes after a hot start. Something tells me the ECU is going into a closed loop 1 minute after starting the engine when it should be ignoring something like the O2 sensor. Perhaps the heated element in the O2 sensor is burned out but will still read once the exhaust heats up.

Couple terminal ends and no plug needed

Timing might be off, could be old serpentine tensioner or old timing belt

intake at head vacuum leak ? sucking crank case fumes into combustion chambers and oil into intake manifold ...... check torque of intake bolts for starters...

I have the same problem. I changed the coolant temp sensor. Didn’t fix it.

i have a 2000 dodge durango v8 5.2 sport and i have almost the same problem like you and i change spark plugs wires, fuel pump,camshatf sensor,cranckshaft p. sensor,,rotor,rotor cap,i clean the throttle body,i replace the iac valve,pcv valve,map sensor,throttle sensor, and still have the problem ,i take to the mechanic and it cost me $800 dlls.. the said is a burn wire but today i pick up my truck from the mechanic and the truck fails again🤦 i going to replace the temperature sensor tomorrow and i see what happend .

Did you put a jumper wire in it to bypass the bad switch? Because I have the same problem, but I replaced the sensor and it still runs like way too much fuel, and no engine light on

I have 97 dodge ram 1500 cranks no start I changed ign coil crank sensor spark plugs distributer injectors all 8 , it cranks no start and smell rich fuel I step no gas pedal down it trys to start but then dies. need help

Could be the distributer spark coil too only electronic not replaces basically

Do you have? The part number on the Bosh injectors. Have AV8 need to do the same.

My 92 Dakota 5.2 runs but when I rev it up it starts smoking black an black soot comes out and when I’m driving it chugs a little but constantly anyone know what it could be I put a new map sensor on it didn’t fix the problem

Did the coolant sensor not work? I am wondering, how would one know that is the issue to check it?

Helped a lot

Im try it tomorrow same problem changed everything on my 2001

Try a new coil and a idle air control valve

Thanks

Clean the throttle

Important question! My 2003 dodge durango 5.9 sputters and won't get up to speed until it warms up then when it warms up it drives fine .. what could this be ?

Clean your throttle body and get that vacuum line fixed

I have this in a 3.3

im faceing with a big problem with my dodge dakota to much smoke rough idle code p0128 po509 po172 i need help

Intake manifold gasket. #1 problem with dodge and ford. Smoke test it..ask a mechanic

I've got a Dodge Dakota it is getting to much fuel and flooding out want crank

Valley pan gasket.

Why would a temp sensor shut the truck down ?

But my temp gauge is working

Couldn't you have spotted this with a scanner that reads live data?

ECT maybe

o2 sensors both them

So did it fix it?

Didnt work

What's the part number for the injectors?

why did you make this you have know that you are doing.

First of all that's not the coolant temperature sensor that's the coolant temperature sending unit two completely different parts bud

MoPar engine blocks are indestructible especially these old LA motors which probably the best engines chrysler ever made, these motors could survive a holocaust. the problem lies in all of the cheap shit they bolt on to the block. anything electrical you can say good bye to, MoPars are infamous for their electrical issues. pumps, filters, bearings, nope nope nope.

valley pan sucking air under carb.