I've seen a kit available to do this on sale for about $60. It looks like you have maybe $5 invested in the nuts and bolt. Thanks for saving me some cash and providing a permanent fix for this issue.
Hey man thanks for the informational video you got a like. My actuator was actually still working I disconnected gray vacuum from intake and plugged it, and plug black vacuum line from transfer case. Then ran bypass vacuum hose from intake vacuum to black actuator line. four-wheel drive is engaged and light is working in the dash temporary fix.. believe my issue is vacuum switch or interchange switch on transfer case. Have to do some more research on replacing that. Just wanted to say thumbs up and thanks for the video information was very helpful for emergency quick fix to get it up and running.
Thanks for this video! This is a great mod, and you helped save my ass...I’m in Wisconsin and we just got 25” of snow and the 4 wheel drive actuator failed on my plow truck...Thank you so much!
There is a cable setup currently made to do the same thing. The cable is a much better setup than this mod. Think of the additional wear on the front diff and driveshaft. This would be wonderful for an offroad vehicle but isn't a good idea for a daily driver.
Just installed the cable system on my 98 dodge 3500... Another advantage of the cable is low range 2 wheel drive without the binding in tight turns that you get in 4 wheel drive... As well as less wear and tear on... What led up to the cable system was 4by not engaging... Oil and vacuum are not friends... Well vacuum wasn't the issue... Axle alignment was... Needle bearings on the short axle side were going going gone... Ever order parts from the other side of the blizzards path... Not a very speedy process...
@@bradleyrussell8180 First installed I had the same issue... Then changed both inner axle bearings... Problem solved... It was traveling far enough... But the shafts were not lining up... All it takes is a bad seal to let the inner bearings go dry....
@@backwoodssawyer1 it lines up, cause I can easily slide the collar all the way engaged with my finger. I did a mod similar to this video but I'm not digging the new vibrations on my feet at 80mph
Good job on the install but I must say I don't know if it's the best idea to have your front differential and front drive shaft always spinning that's more wear and tear on the U-joints in the front drive shaft and also the front differential and also I'm sure it puts more wear and tear on the transfer case because the front drive shaft always spinning gears inside of the transfer case even though the transfer case isn't engaged I have a 96 4 X4 the previous owner unhooked the vacuum system and bought a cable system so you can manually lock and unlock the front axles so it's totally reliable it's also easy to use and it does not make it to where your front drive shaft is always engaged
Yeah, you're definitely not wrong. This is more of a temporary patch fix, or for someone who really doesn't care about all the powertrain wear and tear. This "patch hack" is for the guys where their truck is going to be in the scrap yard in a few years, or days. Nobody want's to ever spend the money and take the time to fix anything the correct way. Fact is, these CAD vacuum systems are actually very reliable, despite what people say/think. These Gen II Dodge Ram pickup trucks are all OLD as hell now, 18 - 25 years old, on average!!! Most are worn out and rotted out. Parts wear out. There are really only a couple of common issues that often make these systems fail: 1.) The vacuum actuators wear out, and they "pull" gear oil from the front axle into them and they eventually plug up the vacuum diaphragm and all of the vacuum lines with oil. Easy fix... Replace actuator, and blow lines out with compressed air. Chase with parts cleaner and blow out again to remove most all of the oil. A tiny bit of oil in the lines won't hurt a thing, in fact, it's actually good for lubrication and anti-rust/corrosion purposes. 2.) Another thing that typically happens due to age and the elements is the steel vacuum lines that run along the frame that go between the front axle flexible hoses/plastic lines and the transfer case flexible hoses/plastic lines can/will rust and even rot through. When this occurs, they either plug the vacuum lines internally, or they pinhole leak and won't hold a vacuum. Easy fix... Just replace the lines! They are relatively easy to replace, and you can even buy "pre-bent" ones that follow the exact factory routing off eBay for reasonable $$. There is even a stainless-steel line option, which I've personally purchased & installed, and they work awesome! I've even seen guys just use 3/16" brake line, and that works too, but isn't as nice or long-lasting of a repair, in my opinion. I like fixing things correctly, and ONCE, whenever possible.
This is more of a temporary patch fix, or for someone who really doesn't care about all the powertrain wear and tear. This "patch hack" is for the guys where their truck is going to be in the scrap yard in a few years, or days. Nobody want's to ever spend the money and take the time to fix anything the correct way. Fact is, these CAD vacuum systems are actually very reliable, despite what people say/think. These Gen II Dodge Ram pickup trucks are all OLD as hell now, 18 - 25 years old, on average!!! Most are worn out and rotted out. Parts wear out. There are really only a couple of common issues that often make these systems fail: 1.) The vacuum actuators wear out, and they "pull" gear oil from the front axle into them and they eventually plug up the vacuum diaphragm and all of the vacuum lines with oil. Easy fix... Replace actuator, and blow lines out with compressed air. Chase with parts cleaner and blow out again to remove most all of the oil. A tiny bit of oil in the lines won't hurt a thing, in fact, it's actually good for lubrication and anti-rust/corrosion purposes. 2.) Another thing that typically happens due to age and the elements is the steel vacuum lines that run along the frame that go between the front axle flexible hoses/plastic lines and the transfer case flexible hoses/plastic lines can/will rust and even rot through. When this occurs, they either plug the vacuum lines internally, or they pinhole leak and won't hold a vacuum. Easy fix... Just replace the lines! They are relatively easy to replace, and you can even buy "pre-bent" ones that follow the exact factory routing off eBay for reasonable $$. There is even a stainless-steel line option, which I've personally purchased & installed, and they work awesome! I've even seen guys just use 3/16" brake line, and that works too, but isn't as nice or long-lasting of a repair, in my opinion. I like fixing things correctly, and ONCE, whenever possible.
@@fiddle24v : Dodge Rams after 2001, actually - NOT 2002. The 2002 model year trucks were the first CAD deleted trucks from the factory. And, what's your point? I'm 100% aware that the last of the Gen 2's and all of the Gen 3 trucks didn't have front axle CAD's. However, after Daimler sold off their truck interest to Fiat, RAM actually brought CAD's back in the later generations, but used an electrical-shifting CAD actuator (like Chevy) instead of a vacuum-shifting one. Needlessly spinning the front diff and front drive shaft back into the transfer case not only wears them all out quicker, but contributes to shittier gas mileage. That's the whole reason for having a CAD on an axle, without old-school type hub lock-outs, in the first place.
You just did a full time front end ..Some of us using the cable convention kits...so I can still get better fuel mileage plus less wear and tear on the front drive shaft.
If I understand the concept correctly driverside axleshaft is still connected to the diferrential carrier spinning spider gears? Even with everything working correctly from factory?
@Chris Getz : Nope. It will only bind when the transfer case is in 4 high or 4 low. (4wd option chosen by the driver with the 4x4 selector shift lever.) Just like "normal". However, the drivetrain from the front wheels to inside the transfer case will turn all of the time. This is not terrible, but it puts a lot of extra unnecessary wear and tear on bearings, seals, gears, u-joints, etc... It also creates more drag, although that is the least of your worries in any HD pickup, in my opinion. I'd only do a hack fix like this in an "emergency" type situation. I'd recommend fixing it the right way. It's not that difficult, and it's not that expensive to just fix it the correct way.
@@turbodiesel4709 exactly! Its literally 2 vacuum lines and an actautor not much can go wrong...start changing the design of things and that can cost you big time in the future
@@daddylonglegz5839 Well, in fact many guys had done that before till today, and as long as everything is well lubricated, there is no worry. Even after years it's seem to be reliable (4x4 forums).
@ eric wesche : Located on the front axle, the threaded-in, two-wire, electrical weather-pack connector style plug, "push-button" style switch for the 4x4 indicator lamp in the dash is located on the left end/side of the 4-bolt aluminum CAD (Center Axle Disconnect) housing. Switch plug is facing the left, driver's side of the truck. The switch seals to the housing with an o-ring. The switch is directly across from the vacuum actuator, which is located on the right of the CAD housing. The actuator seals with an internal o-ring, and is retained from inside the housing, by an "E-clip". When you pull back the transfer case lever to engage the 4x4, the "button" on the switch is pushed in to turn on the light in the dash. The switch button is pushed in by the end of the vacuum actuator rod, internal to the CAD assembly. The switch is threaded into the aluminum CAD housing directly across from the vacuum actuator. If you don't have a properly functioning center axle disconnect (or vacuum actuator, for that matter), your 4x4 light in the dash will not work correctly.
Easier way.. disconnect plug vacuum lines. Drill 2 small holes in vacuum canister. Push fork to engaged position with an ice pick. Fill vacuum canister with expanding foam, let it set up. Done in 20 minutes. Did mine 6 years ago, no problems…
Nice little mod, and its reversible if he ever changes his mind :-D. I was thinking nasty on keeping the ring to the left, clamp a jubilee clip on the gear to the right. I have a nasty mind LOL.
That a neat mod I havn't seen that done yet a lot of people use the manual cable setup also but this seem like a less pita and like he said they changed it anyways after 2002 and in the 3rd gen probably cause dodge finally figure out this was unreliable setup.
@ rrcoster : Ram's went back to the front CAD (Center Axle Disconnect) in the Gen IV trucks and newer. 2002 Gen II's were the only one without the CAD, and all of the Gen III's (as I recall). Daimler owned Chrysler during the Gen III years. That's why they got away from it during that time. Fiat/Ram went back to it. The CAD system is fine. You just have to maintain it, like everything in life. The Gen II trucks are OLD as shit. You have to expect some issues due to wear and tear, and rust and rot. Furthermore, they are easy to fix. Aftermarket parts are not that expensive. They are easily good for another 10+ years if you actually fix the problem the right way the first time, instead of do these "temporary hack-job" fixes.
good mod. however especially if it's a daily driver this mod will have the front drive shaft turning at all times which will increase the wear on all connected rotating parts. i recommend a free wheeling hub kit that is a aftermarket setup. the cost of the kit isn't to bad but will save in the end on premature parts wear. also save on a little fuel mileage.
@@allenweber2686 : Or, you could just fix it the right way and be done with it. Aftermarket parts are NOT that expensive, and this vacuum system is actually quite reliable, despite what people think. These trucks are just OLD as hell and have normal rust, rot, wear and tear issues. I've fixed tons of them. It's almost always just the vacuum lines are plugged or rotted out, or the vacuum actuator is bad. Simple and inexpensive fixes.
@ Ted Webster. It may. I believe that the center axle shaft just "floats" in-between the differential pin and the RH outer axle shaft. Nothing to worry about.
although this way works ok,,an even easier and much cleaner way is to simply take out the circlips on either side,slide the fork over to the actuated side and reinstall a circlip on the opposite side,clean and stock appearing,and the fork is still sitting a proper smooth shaft.not a threaded bolt,just a cleaner better way to go,
Yep...probably be repalcing the front driveshaft u joints too. The guy seems like he knows what hes doing but i wouldnt do it like that...to each his own
@@daddylonglegz5839 My thoughts exactly. There’s just no way. My 4x4 vacuum system was shot, and I took the time to repair it. I don’t understand why people take shortcuts.
@@mcss327 : Remove the CAD (Center Axle Disconnect) housing assy. Push actuator to the "engaged" position. Put wide hose clamp around actuator shaft to "fill" gap between housing and shift fork, to prevent it from moving back to the "disengaged" position. (The same can be achieved with zip-ties instead of a hose clamp) Slide splined axle locking collar to "engaged" position and re-install CAD housing. Done. The 4x4 light in the dash will stay on all the time, as it is activated by the actuator's piston rod. All that said, this should just be done as a temporary fix. Parts are cheap. Figure out what's wrong and replace what's broke. Its usually the vacuum actuator or bad/rotted/plugged vacuum lines. Once in a great while it's the vacuum switch up on the transfer case, although that is much more rare.
@@RobKingRC : It's an ok solution. Not the best, by any means. I own 5 of these trucks. All work fine with the stock design. I personally installed all stainless steel vacuum lines along the frame rails & new CAD actuators on all of them. No more issues since. It's also important to not over-fill the front axle with gear lube & also make sure the axle breather is not plugged. If the excess gear lube gets into the vacuum bellows of the CAD's vacuum actuator, it will stop working properly.
@ Bridgette O'Leary : Ah, so you are talking about taking the CAD shift unit off of the axle and putting the zip tie(s) around the actuator shaft in the engaged position (fully extended) and then re-install the CAD assy back on the axle after also sliding the splined axleshaft collar into the "locked" position. For a temporary fix, I LIKE IT!!! That's a WAY better, quicker, and easier idea than what they are doing in this video. An even easier hack fix for in an emergency situation would be to disconnect the vacuum lines and smash in the end of the steel diaphragm with a hammer. No, I don't personally recommend doing that, but it definitely will do the job in a pinch, say, when you are out plowing snow in the middle of the night, and the damned thing quits working on you. I've seen it happen to other guys, but I've never personally experienced that problem. Probably because I take care of (preventative maintenance) my trucks. Personally, instead of doing this kind of bullshit, I'd just fix it the right way, as it's really not rocket science to figure the system out, and it doesn't cost very much for the parts, in general.
@@idontknowanythingaboutcars896 The example of 1970s Lincoln (and by extension, all vacuum operated FoMoCo hidden headlight covers of the time) is not the best one. They were designed to fail open in order to keep the driver safe in case of a loss of vacuum signal, but were otherwise closed simply for aesthetic. When the systems leaked they would creep open after a loss of vacuum signal (engine off) but if there were any decent hoses at all they would stay closed when the car was running down the road. You want an example of a bad vacuum system? Take a look at the windshield wipers on 1940s Fords, 1950s Chevrolets and the like. If you go to pass someone in a hard downpour when you stomp the throttle you lose vacuum signal and the wipers stop working. Then after you hit something because you cannot see, if the engine returns to idle and regains vacuum signal - you can see the tree, other car, pedestrian, et cetera that you collided with. Brilliant!
@Consolidated : Yup, and the CAD systems work 99% of the time. Only noticeable issues are on these Gen II trucks that are now 18 -25 years old and are all worn-out and/or rotted. Even then, they are not that difficult to diagnose and fix if a failure occurs. Aftermarket parts are relatively inexpensive as well. Problem is, most people in general are just too stupid and/or lazy to fix problems the correct way.
I can see doing this if you are in a pinch and need 4wd but other wise why would want your front driveshaft spinning and your transfer case shaft spinning. Lots of wear and tear and fuel consumption. I wish my dodge had manual lockouts so that my axle joints wouldn't be spinning and wearing out and eating fuel. These axles are a terrible design and this makes it worse unless in a pinch for 4wd. My cummins has 440,000 miles and my first vacuum pod just went bad. 23$ on ebay for a new one delivered to my rural home, easy peasy!
WAY TOO MUCH WORK GUYS! Just pull the unit off, remove the c-clip that holds the fork in place, slide the fork over to lock mode, and replace the c-clip on the other side of the fork. Done. And it remains in 4x4 engaged. No need to remove the vacuum parts and put nuts and bolts and silicone. Just remove a c-clip, slide the fork, replace the c-clip. Don't need any parts other than what is already in there.
@ 2Wheel 1Cyl : UGH!!! You broke 3 bolts off because you are inexperienced... A little heat with a torch to the housing near the bolts and they likely would have come right out. Furthermore, anytime you have stuff like this apart, be sure to put it back together with NEW bolts and lock washers, along with anti-seize on the threads!
Really...no one will notice ANY fuel mileage difference with the front d/s always spinning and secondly that collar is the weak link...why not just put a new one piece axle shaft in the differential
@ Jared Prince : Because you need the collar to engage both the center and the RH axleshafts in order to be able to use the 4-wheel drive. DUH. It's not over engineered at all. Apparently you are just to stupid to understand how it works, and repair it, if need be. Also, why in the hell would you want it to stay in 2wd? It's already doing that, when "broken".