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► Tractors - 1953 Ford Golden Jubilee with a loader and a 1952 Ford 8N. We also have a 1968 John Deere 140 Garden Tractor.
► Cars - 2008 BMW 335xi
► Trucks - 1999 Ford F350 Super Duty Dually with a 7.3l Powerstroke Diesel, and a 1986 Ford F250 with a 6.9l IDI Diesel, and a 1999 Dodge Ram 2500 Diesel with a heavily modified 5.9l.
What fixed it for me is washing out the crevice with a little cleaner and water as a lot of dirt builds up in there and jams things up. And apparently that can cause the mirror to jam up and fold incorrectly
@@edzgarage Fantastic news. Mine runs about 55 cold and 40 baking hot with straight 30W. I am going to drop the pan and replace the oil pump as it is too easy and for only $100.00 for the whole job it is cheap insurance my old tractor will keep on keeping on. I really enjoyed watching your series. Thank you so very much for doing it!
i only want the coolant bypass to get rid of the metal heater core tube and mess ram designed. mine is almost rusted thru. as a plus it looks kinda cool.
19:11 VP44 pumps have offset keys, not keyways. The keyway is the slot in the shaft and the key gets inserted into the keyway. I'm not sure why but a lot of people call the key a keyway so you're not alone. 🙂 I've made a similar comment on several pump videos.
I had read somewhere that someone had tested coolant _pressure_ at different points on the block and it was noticeably higher at the rear of the head. And they were surmising that the high coolant pressure could be contributing to the 53 blocks breaking. Installing a bypass evened out the pressure and they were hoping that, combine with modding the water pump to reduce the pressure, made a 53 block live longer especially on a non stock engine. So I put one on mine. Cannot hurt other than lightening my wallet.
hi question, is there a way to disassemble the camera to get the batteries out? I found my parents a80 but the batteries are stuck in the compartment and idk how to take them out 🥲 was wondering if I can just unscrew the body to try to take it out
I wonder what causes continuous bubbling in the reservoir...? Changed the pump along with the pulley when it started leaking, but it did bubble from the start and then the other day I had no power steering. Never sloppy, no noises, never stiff, just turned on tractor manual steering one day. Steering gearbox says my mechanic now. What next...? Scrap it I guess. 🙄
A lot of us old engine guys will leave the plugs out of any new motor, put a battery charger on the charged battery and spin it (but being nice to the starter motor) until there is gauge pressure or the idiot light is out for about 30 seconds of additional spinning of the motor. Then and only then, do we put the match to the new engine. Even on engines like small block Chevys where it is very easy to fashion a tool to spin the oil pump with the distributor out to get readable oil pressure or light out for 30 seconds, we still leave the plugs out, install the distributor, and repeat. Then, we put the match to her. Its a very conservative way to wake up a new engine, but it is also a safe way.
The diameter of the screw on filters for the filter conversion like he has much smaller than the filter media of the original can filter. For those of you that have lived with both, do I convert to screw on or just leave it original. My tractor only maintains less than 5 acres of cosmetic mowing and once or twice a year plowing a garden so oil changes are not as frequent as it would be for someone that works their tractor more like it was designed to be worked.
We're is the fuse for this? My mirrors drive me crazy every other month... I will take the fuse out and do it manually I have no problem with it but where is the fuse for this?? Help
I had blind spot problem fixed at dealer in 2023…$1000. Now park assist problem in May 2024. With a total of $17K of warranty work since new, the (no longer available) Lifetime Maximum Warranty has paid for itself x 5.
Just did this fix with a nice tiny hole. One thing that really helped was having pressurized air and a syringe to really push solvents in behind the pin. Also, some super fine tweezers or the tip of an exacto blade can be used to reach in and exercise the pin (push it back into the hole where it was stuck) while feeding it lube. Way easier if it's off the car.
They always say to stop turning turkey and othetr eggs 3 days before hatch time, but according to this, she turns the eggs right up to hatching time it seams.
What a crap piece of system this is when it starts malfunctioning. My display lights and warning signals all start going crazy and I have a decent commute. Had to listen to that thing go off for over 20 minutes. You ever designed needs to be put out to pasture.
Thanks for making this video. I see it was uploaded 12 years ago but I own a 40 year old Audi with the fuel filter in the exact same spot looking identical. And this video really helped me out. It's good to know I don't need any special procedures to bleed the system other than just starting it for a bit. Hoping mine will come loose as easily as yours did. Thanks again.
Man. Thanks for the video. Not watching any RU-vid videos before attempting this made this project look like hard to remove. I was ready to remove the whole headlamp assembly 😮
You misread those specs. It was probably written "95ftp-105ftp". That doesn't mean somewhere in between. It means that you first torque them "all" to 95 and then "retorque" them all to 105. You torque all the bolts twice. It allows the metal to settle into place. Follow the torqueing order both times.
