Dodge Magnum, Charger, 300 Hemi Crankshaft Position Sensor Replacement 

Mine takes about 2 seconds to start and sometimes it does a long start? What were the warning signs before your check engine light came on?

@@captainobvious5993 mine will start but dies shortly after and most times will stay running and drive until you go to accelerate it just stalls but will start right back e

@@TattedTommysTv are you getting any codes? I'm getting the p1416 performance reactivation misfire cylinder 6 and I just had a new engine put in. Remanufactured engine. I think the solenoid is bad hopefully. It sounds like yours may have a similar problem as mine cause mine also will cut out if you try to go wide open throttle the RPM will go up but the engine cuts out almost like it's going to stall

@@captainobvious5993 mines now throwing ECU PCM code so I just did a good cleaning at all points of contact will see tomorrow what happens I'm thinking I need a PCM

@@TattedTommysTv let me know how it goes

Thanks man. Glad the video was helpful. That sensor is still going strong in my Magnum.

So glad to see that the video helped with your repair. That's exactly why I put them up here. My crank sensor has been in for several months now and I haven't had any issues. Hope you have good luck with yours too.

Crankshaft positioning sensor did not throw a check engine light

@j zee im having really bad stalling issues did the crank sensor fix your car?

@@karimwhite8689 replace both cam shaft and crankshaft sensor. I did and not as bad idle anymore lol I'm not sure what else is the problem

@@B_HarTz ok thanks bro got mine done also

Awesome! I’m glad you were able to save a bunch of money.

@@TorqueWagon it did not work out for me. I had to also replace the relay and ignition actuator pin that was broken. Even after all that my car still won't crank. I guess it's the actual starter that failed. Gonna take it out and see if o'reilly can check it out. Was hoping this was a easy fix like yours man. Thanks for the video 👍

Sorry to hear that yours still didn’t work. Is it possible that the wiring on the starter got knocked loose when you moved it out of the way?

Hey, what year is this magnum?​@@TorqueWagon

Sorry about that. I forget sometimes that not everyone knows as much about these models as I do, and assume that everyone knows the magnum was only produced 2005-2008. So, this video would only be relevant for Chargers, 300s, and Magnums from 2005-2008 with the 5.7 Hemi, though it would probably be helpful on any 2wd application of the 5.7 Hemi, as I don’t think they changed the location of the sensor on any of the later models.

For some reason my 05 dodge magnum rt is the same way. I have gone to autozone and oreallys and advance auto and the car doesnt like them parts. I have to order mopar everytime. 2 weeks ago i just replaced the right side downstream 02 sensor with a denso and so far so good.

Thanks ill keep that in mind before chunking lots of money in aftermarket sensors

I have a 2012 Charger and decided to buy aftermarket. Let me tell you it was a big mistake. Replaced it twice, until I went to the dealership and got Mopar brand. Let’s see if that was the issue..

@@rocha123047 Did that fix the issue? I replaced the crankshaft sensor with an aftermarket on my 2008 chrylser 300 2.7 and its still giving me a p0335 code.

It’s a 2005.

If it’s not starting, I’d go back and make sure all the connectors are plugged back in properly. Check the connection at the sensor and then try to follow the wire up and make sure it didn’t get disconnected from the wiring harness or anywhere else. You might also try disconnecting the negative battery cable for 10-15 minutes to let everything reset before trying to start again.

@@TorqueWagon boa tarde meu querido eu tô com um carro desse mesmo aí quando eu ligo o motor logo após ele desliga o que você pode me dizer sobre esse eu sou aqui do Brasil

It sounds to me like you could have a bad ground connection for the circuit that powers the camshaft position sensor or a wire that is shorting out. When you go over bumps it could jostle the wiring harness just enough to either cause or correct the issue. I’d start by examining the wires that go to the connector on the sensor. That sensor is in the top of the engine on the passenger side if I remember correctly. You should be able to get to it without much trouble.

Hi Darian. I never got a code for the cam sensor, and I haven't had to replace it...yet. I've had codes for the crank sensor, the oil pressure switch and the EGR valve, and replace all of them. I'm sure the cam sensor is next but I don't think it's a hard one to replace as it's on the top side of the engine near the front. Pretty sure you don't even have to remove anything else to get to it.

@@TorqueWagon Thanks So much! So the Crankshaft and Cansgaft sensor are 2 different sensor.

Yep. Cam sensor is on top of the motor and the crank sensor is on the bottom.

@@TorqueWagon Oh cool thank you alot again!

@@dariantoureene475 cool thanks!

Yes, the code went away after I replaced the switch. I had the negative battery terminal disconnected while I replaced it, and the code was gone after I reconnected the battery and started the car. I also had to replace my oil pressure switch, and didn't have any issues with the aftermarket part there. I used a Wells PS401 oil pressure switch that I got from Amazon, and it worked fine.

It’s for sale if you’re REALLY intrigued.

I e got a buddy who had a 300 awd that was having similar issues. I think these engines can have issues with the coil packs as well, so you may want to explore that. You may find cracks in the plastic on coil packs that are acting up. I’m not sure if there’s an easy way to test them or not.

@@TorqueWagon sucker reads a different set of codes every time I just uploaded a video to my page I did a thorough PCM contact clean and put dielectric grease on the contact points so far so good but prior to that I was getting ECU PCM lose of connection error

It’s been a few years but I don’t think it threw a code. The oil pressure light may have come on when it stalled though, and the old sensor was causing an oil leak as well.

@@TorqueWagoni get low oil pressure too upon stall, but kinda makes sense since the pcm expects operating pressure. Did you end up using a mopar part, or aftermarket? As an aside, i too had to replace my oil pressure sensor. The unit was reporting abnormally low pressures (as seen on the evic in diag mode). After the new sensor all pressures appeared nominal.

@@TorqueWagoni get low oil pressure too upon stall, but kinda makes sense since the pcm expects operating pressure. Did you end up using a mopar part, or aftermarket? As an aside, i too had to replace my oil pressure sensor. The unit was reporting abnormally low pressures (as seen on the evic in diag mode). After the new sensor all pressures appeared nominal.

I think I replaced my oil pressure sensor at some point too. I’m 90% sure I used an aftermarket part for the CPS replacement.

I have only experienced stalling with a bad CPS, but I suppose you could have stuttering and misfires. That sounds like it could be a coil pack or plug wire issue as well.

That’s probably true, though, there wouldn’t be so many people searching for the info on how to change the sensor of the OEM one weren’t prone to failure as well. I think my factory sensor lasted 90k-100k miles, which means I’ve been using the parts store one for about 50k miles. I’ll be sure to pin a comment if/when it fails.

@@TorqueWagon it’s been two years. Is the parts store CKPS still working fine? I know you didn’t show a relearn process in the video. Just making sure you sit have to do that. I keep getting 0315 code. This after replacing engine harness, and also this would be the third sensor. The dealership put in a Mopar one about 10,000 miles ago. Maybe 8,000. I might put it back in. I’ve checked the wiring because the harness wasn’t “new” as they are not available but I got an eBay one in what appeared to be excellent condition. No dried out jackets, no broken connectors. I’m really starting to think it’s the computer. It runs like a champ until it doesn’t. The dealership did a diagnosis for the harness, couldn’t find one, I did, replaced it myself, and they were wrong. I’m sure my original harness wasn’t the problem. It wasn’t in great shape but no obvious breaks after thorough inspection. I’ve been dealing with this for four years. Bought car new at same dealership. Oh, and I have a lifetime bumper to bumper Chrysler warranty too. Double edged sword. They don’t even like to see me anymore. But there isn’t another dealership that’s better around. Besides, this is where I bought the car. Dammit.

@@andrewhigdon8346 I’m sorry to hear that you e been having so much trouble. I had a friend who went through similar issue to what you’re describing with his 2006 300C. In the end he just got rid of it because no one could figure out exactly what the problem was. I’ve heard that the coil packs have a tendency to go bad but the only way I know of to test them is to get a new one and test it on one cylinder at a time, which sounds like a huge hassle. My CKPS from the parts store is still going strong. I’ve also replaced the EGR valve and oil pressure sensor, but haven’t had any other issues with electronics.

Those both look like crankshaft position sensor codes. As cheap as it is to replace, I think that might be the first thing I would try. If you don’t run into any trouble, it can be done in 30 minutes to an hour.

@@TorqueWagon sounds good thank you

It looks like that code refers to the vehicle speed sensor (VSS), which isn’t something I’ve had to deal with yet on my magnum. I’m not sure how difficult it would be to test/replace.

rhurtadorh32 My p0430 code went away after I had my flex pipes right after the CATs replaced. Apparently a bad leak can cause that code too.

Yes he right it's just the flex pipe go to auto zone and get 3.5 inch flex pipe the shirt one that's what I got on mines ur can get 3 inch if they got it

Its universal flex pipe

Carol Morris what do you mean the shirt one?

SportyBlackwell76 I haven’t had any other trouble. The car has 120,000 miles and it runs just as well as it did at 50,000.

@@TorqueWagon thanks man. I got the code for EGR valve, so during the process I will replace the crank position sensor as well just because. Chrysler did not do well on their electronics manufacturing these cars. Once you replace the stock parts everything should be gravy.

Took my car by the dealer they wanted 300 to fix it I knew I could do it myself just didn’t know where sensor was and your video saved me and made the job 10x’s easier the way you explained the process

Awesome! That right there is why I make the videos. I'm so glad it helped you.

Ha! Well, it's all about your perspective. I've worked on a lot of different brands, and they all have things that were put together stupidly. Yeah, it's a pain to get under the car and move the starter to get to the CPS, but I've seen engine compartments where the only way to change an alternator was to pull the engine. I'm pretty sure on some corvettes, you have to remove a tire and the inner fender just to change the oil filter. It's all a pain when you don't have the time or money to make the repairs in the first place, but for me, it's still better than having a $500 plus car payment every month.

TorqueWagon well you got me there bud, no car payments and doing your own repairs wins every time in my book!

Tripp Courtney it’s under the trunk floor. You just need to use a wrench to loosen the bolt on the negative terminal then pull that terminal off the post.