This channel is all about a love of cars, especially powerful but practical cars like the Dodge Magnum. I've been daily driving a 2005 Magnum R/T for several year, and it may be my favorite out of all the cars I've ever owned. I also have 1985 GMC Suburban with a 6.2 diesel and a 1971 Chevrolet C10 2wd 350.
I'll be talking about a lot of automotive issues on this channel, as well as showing you some repairs and upgrades that I perform on my personal vehicles. I'm just a tinkerer, so I'm usually figuring things out as I go. I hope you'll join me on this journey, because it should be a fun one. Thanks for watching!
Thank you for the information.Great job on the explanation and video. Thank you for taking your time and helping others. That's a rare quality these days. God bless. Have a wonderful day.
I know this is an old post but I have reached this bridge to cross. I have a 05 SXT Magnum, Orig owner, 160K on the odom. No Codes. Stalling starts after fill-up but continues as fuel level decreases and increases frequency under hot conditions. I live in Tucson. Either burps as it is trying to catch itself from stalling or it just stalls at idle or even low idle speeds, turning into a driveway as example. I've also noticed a bad acetone-like smell when this started happening. NOT a gas smell but like you walked in on your wife doing her nails. LOL Lingers in the garage for extended time. Just wondering if you may have experienced the same? Did you get the tank replaced?
I know the exact smell you’re talking about and usually smell it when I have trouble starting my Magnum. My theory there is that the throttle body may be sticking due to carbon build up (or something else), and the intake gets a big shot of gas with almost no air. These cars are throttle by wire so the butterfly on the throttle body can’t be unstuck by stomping on the pedal a few times. The best way to make sure it operates smoothly is to remove the intake tubing and clean the throttle body really well. I had my fuel tank replaced under warranty more than 100,000 miles ago and haven’t had any stalling issues since (except when the crank position sensor failed). Sometimes it has trouble starting, though, if I haven’t driven it in a few days. I’m at about 166,000 miles now.
We had it for 6 years with no major issues and have had at least 4 other FCA cars in the last 20 years, all without issue. Thank goodness I didn’t let her get that Toyota Tundra a couple of years ago. Dodged a bullet there!
This has become a well known problem with the Pacifica, and Chrysler has no fix for it. The aux battery failure associated with the start stop feature will eventually become an annual replacement of that battery. We had the same issue with ours last summer, replaced the aux and main battery. On the 4th of July (same month last year too) our Pacifica completely shut down at an intersection. We once again have the yellow warning light on the dash indicating start stop failure. We bought ours new in 2018, and it only has 50,000 miles on it. Even with lower mileage it’s developing numerous other electrical issues reported by other owners. Apparently the Pacifica’s are notorious for electrical problems that all seem to drain either the main battery or aux.., and both batteries with the start stop failure.
This video continues to be a great resource. Saw it the first time today, and replaced my wife's aux battery when car wouldn't start (new main battery) in the Target parking lot. We have AAA but I'm pretty sure their battery service doesn't cover these auxiliary batteries. Dropped by Autozone and picked one up, ran over with my sockets, and had it changed out in about 15 minutes. Thanks again @torquewagon!
I like how you said offset to the left is top offset to the right is bottom but you could flip it upside down and the left offset would then be on the right at the bottom and the right offset at the bottom would become the top at the left. Think about it
Getting to the back two bolts on the trans pan is a pain in the butt I am a novice at working on these I am 35 bought my first 71 chevy c10 for 3,100 dollars have my trans leaking everywhere and having a hard time trying to get the last two bolts out should I jack up the trans to get the pan off or is there an easier way to get to the very back two bolts under the cross member
I’ve taken the pan off without jacking the transmission up but it’s probably been 10 years since I did that. You could probably unbolt the trans mount and jack the tail up a little to get better access.
Thank you for the video. It looked like you were by adjusting that bolt back and forth several different ways and I couldn't really tell what you did. I heard you described it that the bolt being loosened increases the throw of the arms and increases speed.
I really enjoyed watching this video on how to make the adjustments on the Mower, as it was very informative and educational. One other thing that I've come across in doing so, is that the filters can sometimes become clogged and restrict allowing the free flow of fluid to the transmissions. . I also measure the space between the throw levers to make sure they're both adjusted to the same distance. Sometimes, I put a little piece of tape around the bottom of the bolt, to remind me of where it had been adjusted at the factory. But All in all, this was as "Text Book" as anybody can get it. Can you please make a video on replacing the drive belt on the Gravely 60 inch series, Mowers. Thank you, and Please keep the videos coming. Take care, and stay safe Sir.
Спасибо дружище! Единственное видео которое реально помогло! Сэкономил 100 баксов👍 Кстати, у меня рулевая колонка с электроприводом и вытащить радиатор МОЖНО!
I suppose it could still be the problem. Are you getting any error codes along with the stalling? A bad crank position sensor can cause similar issues as well.
I have an 86 K20 GMC Suburban with a 350 and T400/NP208 TCase with 4.10s. Just picked up a NV4500 5 speed out of a 95 Chevy K2500 that I am going to swap out. What transmission did you swap out and did you have to shorten the drive shaft? Totally agree about putting them in together but sometimes its not possible. I have done it a few times on my 99k2500 after my 246 went out and swapped to a 241C. It is challenging.
I had the TH400 before as well and the driveshaft fit back in with no modifications. I think there’s about 1/8th inch difference between the old and new setup and the slip yolk allows for that much of a variance.
The 89 should be the same as my 85 so there’s nothing to reprogram. If you have a gas engine with TBI, that may be different, but with the diesel there’s no computer.
