Thank you sir! This was a big help. Im just doing mine on a 2006 in 2021 with 265,000 hard miles and much mud. RAM TOUGH! 5.7 HEMI is surely in the top 5 best engines ever built and no one can tell me that Dodge powertrains are weak. This ol' boy is a real stud.
Thanks for the help. Made my 2007 job much easier. Your tie rod end remover is a great tool. Broke a Harbor Freight puller and found a puller at Auto Zone strong enough to break loose the lower ball joint.
Just did this job due to a split cv boot. You can skip a few steps here and save a bunch of time/effort. Leave brakes and lower ball joint attached. Only need to remove upper ball joint and tie rod. You can manipulate the whole knuckle assembly and pull out the axle. Just detach it from the inner side first so you don't fight with it coming out of the hub/knuckle area. The way shown here is probably by the book though.
I appreciate the video just to see which stub shaft I was getting but however after my install I had to leave a comment. You did that whole replacement thevhardest way anybody could have possibly done it LOL
One thing I found helpful is to pull the 4wd shift module. Much easier to reach in there. Oddly, my differential only has two holes for the seal flange bolts
2010 1500 only has 2 bolts on flange...not sure why they would do that other than to freak me out...thought a couple bolts fell out til I got my head in there to see
Great video - thanks! Just wondering if you should apply grease to the stub shaft and cv axel splines when installing the new parts? I didn't notice any grease on the inner bearing, intermediate shaft, or cv axel splines when you put it together and I assumed you'd need some? Can anyone comment on that, please?
@JD Spears I didn't see that. Thanks brother. My housing actually has a crack in it. I need to get one from the junkyard or ebay. Its causing the shaft to wobble cause its no longer a perfect circle due to the crack . its oblong
Some only have 2 bolts, my 2011 only has 2. Totally normal no worries! The 2 bolt is more prone to leaking, mine waited until 160k to start leaking, it was time for CV axles anyway so I can live with it.
How did you go about changing it. I had to tap two holes, and both only able to do half way. Contemplating whether it's best to replace that housing box... Not sure the name of it myself. Was it hard to change?
Thought I might get lucky and find the 2012 and up ram 1500 biggest crutch . The passenger side intermidate shaft. Damn you Chrysler what your doing should be against the law . How many rigs on the road have that vibration that starts off light . Then cv axles tear apart one after the other . By the time your 4 cv axles in at 200 bucks a pop you find out it's the intermediate shaft in the front diff that Chrysler won't sell you. They will fix it for 2500 or sell you the drivers side shaft . Crap I can get those for 25 bucks . I will never buy another ram ever . I love my 2015 but not enough to take it up the ass with a smile from Chrysler . Should be a class action lawsuit .
@JD Spears drivers side yes passenger side I can't find one . Napa even dodge say they don't have them. 2012 and up they wanna sell you the whole front diff . I can get used ones for 800 bucks
@@andrewdenine1685 I could be confused by what part you want but I just bought one at O’Reilly’s it was about $100 came with gear and bearing as well. Is that the part you mean?
Good question. In the process of doing this now. Wondering if the driver side came out the same way. If so, will I have to open the differential housing to do the driver side? Not sure if there is a lock ring inside that needs to come off
@@keith172527 its a plain splined shaft held in by a c-clip. You need a slide puller. After you remove the d/s axle, hook the fingers of the puller on the groove and use a hose clamp to hold the fingers on the groove of the stub shaft. Yank it out. Tap the new shaft in gently
