That same truck with the 6.2 gas engine has an option for 4.30 gear ratio. Max conventional towing in this configuration is 15,000 lbs. Its amazing to me how much difference gearing makes.
I have 2019 f250 6.2 long bed crew and pull frequently over mountain passes here in colorado I'm pulling only about 9000lbs and you can hear the engine working hard. So i just sit through it and keep an eye on my gauges. Driving on flatter areas like highway does ok. Most people want to tow going 70 up a hill When in reality it's putting everybody at risk just gotta be patient and remember you'll get to where you need to just a little later than a diesel. Diesels are great investments under a warranty if they break you better have some deep pockets even if you do the work yourself.
I had the same issue and I think the confusion about how much towing a truck can do are determinant not only on drive ratio but gearing ratio and torque at motor crank. With those numbers (dif ratio, transmission gear ratio, torque at motor crank) and truck weight and towing weight difference. So what’s your transmission gear and crank torque? FYI there is a formula.
The 6.2 is more of a fleet engine and for people that tow less than 11k pounds. It definitely can tow more than that but i see it tow more landscaping and construction equipment. I drive a 6.2 f250 and it does fine for what i need it for but i would prefer the 6.7 in the future
Am i missing something? Does it matter max tow cap. Payload and tongue weight usually first criteria. Max tow for my truck is 11000, but I usually find that TW. And payload is where I
At what speed and what RPM? I have a 1989 F350 7.3L diesel backed by a 3 speed C-6 and 4.10:1 final drive gear ratio. It screams at 3,000 RPM at only 65 MPH and that's empty! I need 3.73 or 3.55 gears.
@ralph sampson I'm running 33" tires, when running 65, I'm doing 2000rpm roughly. The Gear Vendor double overdrive with an E4OD has a final drive ratio of 0.55:1. So I'm all good. I always run the gear vendor, no issues yet. If it craps out, I'm so screwed, lol. But even not engaged, my overdrive RPM just transmission OD and my rear acle put out 2550 or so rpm at 65mph. Not screaming, but total crap mpg.
You would NOT be breaking things in the first 20 mins of towing with your truck. Granted, the longevity of the truck would not be the same as towing at or under your GCVWR, but certainly NO explosions or failures will occur - unless you have 300,000+ miles on it and have never taken care of the truck a day in its life.
@J.J. Clarke All depends on the configuration, crew cab, or short bed, 4x2 or 4x4 I know there's a ram builder that shows how much you can tow and payload
I thought you would do a test or demonstration or provide a link or compare manufactures gear ratios to tow capacity given the same engine and equipment, something showing us how gear ratios affect towing. I’m not surprised.
There is a link in the description to Ford's website showing the configuration and gear ratios and towing capabilities. As for demonstration, if I was able to aquire the same truck but with different gears I would certainly show that. But unfortunately I'm not able to.
So my question is are the numbers the same for a 2016 F250 platinum same like a 2017 and up years. I recently bought a 38ft Zinger 340BH and it weights around 9080 to 9220 dry weight my concern is will I be able to pull it with no problem with my 2016 6.7 diesel engine I have 20x12.50x37 tires on stock wheels and I have my truck deleted with a Ezylnk programmer Sinister Diesel cold side charge pipe a 4 in straight pipe 7500Xl Airlift Weight Distribution Hitch System will I be pulling my RV safely with those small mods I have since I always travel 15 hours or more thank you ! Good content
I would say that kind of weight you'll be okay with your specific truck. But I would try to find the exact gearing you having and the chart from Ford online for your year to know exactly what it's rated for. For instance my generation f150 Ford advertised highest towing in it's category(11300lbs) but that's with the extended cab long bed model base optioned with 3.73 gears. My truck has 3.55 gearing and the short bed and is only rated at 9600lbs. Have I towed more than that, yep, would I do it for a longer period of time, probably not.
@@bris9984 the engine could handle more weight but the transmission, differential and other driveline/ suspension components are only rated for a certain amount.
Thanks for the question Nate! I believe the higher gear ratio will give you better towing. I believe it will cause less stress on the engine on improve gas milage when towing large loads. However, it is optimized for towing, so when not towing, you can expect lower gas milage compared to lower gear ratio trucks.
12,500 is the max for the F250 for the most part, I wouldn’t tow more than 10k with the gas motor. That’s just me. There’s people out there that will tow 15k all day in that truck and get away with it. It’s really all about your experience in towing.
Gear ratios make a difference. The 4th gen RAM 1500s with 5.7L HEMI (regardless of choice of transmission) with 3.92 axle ratio gets a great bump in mpg while towing (mines a 2012 with 6 speed near 130,000 miles) and even on a 2 to 3% grade incline at 70mph the engine doesn't rev past 2500 let alone staying slightly above 2100 rpms (and thats with tow/haul on and the cruise control set). It doesn't realize that theres a trailer back there.
So here is my question... If I go to buy a new F-250, and it says I have a 3.73 rear end, is that the actual number for THAT truck with THAT configuration? I only ask because my work truck comes with the 3.73, and has 17” wheels and 31” tires. My boss’ truck came with 20” wheels and whatever size tires comes with those wheels. I’m going to assume 33’s. My truck clearly has better acceleration and better mileage. How do the manufacturers rate these rear ends from the factory?
If the window sticker is saying it has the 3.73 gearing then yes it should have that gearing. For your work truck vs your bosses, if they don't have the same gearing that would explain it, but different wheel and tire sizes can affect acceleration as well. I don't know the exact why manufacturers test the gearing but I'm sure the have a way to show which gearing will perform better in different scenarios.
Wonder why the truck is limited to only 12.5k lbs my 2018 F-150 has a tow rating of 13k though I will likely reach max payload before I get to 13k due to tongue weight and my fat ass in the truck.
I was shocked to see a 3/4 ton truck have a pretty low tow capacity. I don't know if I'd feel comfortable pulling that much weight for a long duration.
You're not gonna break universals and axles within 20 minutes towing 3,000 lbs over the rating of a truck. Viod warranty, Open yourself up to liability if your in an accident and have a sluggish towing experience yes. Truck start breaking parts in 20 minutes? No. Rolling loads are much easier than dead lifting loads. I can push a 3,000 lb vehicle. I can't lift 3,000 lbs. 30 years ago we all towed with half the HP and torque of modern trucks, and regular guys owning a Diesel was very rare. That's why there are truck lanes for roads with grades.
I've seen driveline joint break under heavy load, more uncommon yes. But I've worn out ujoints faster because of heavy towing conditions. Definitely nice to have something rated for more weight then you plan to haul.
@@HitchinMitch agree, should have truck rated for the load. 1/2 tons today are a joke suspension wise. Almost car like. Brakes, trans gearing and power are light years ahead of old trucks. With rear suspension upgrades they are fairly capable trucks. 2500s and 3500s are required for businesses to withstand the weights, abuse and not open yourself up to any liability of towing over the weight limit of the vehicle.
Ok that’s your perspective. Your gross vehicle towing weight is what you need to look at. Weight of loaded truck plus weight of everything pulled. My truck is a f150 300 six and 5 speed. I can tow that boat across country with no problems what so ever. You think crazy. Well ZF5s-47 transmission. 260 comp cam and 355 rear end. Air bags on rear axle. Trailer brakes and driving by my tachometer. 340 ft lbs of torque from 1600 rpms to 2500 rpms. Do all pulling inside this range and it’s easy. Speed is never a factor. Never. Meaning forget about how fast your going all that matters is you stay in torque range. Gearing in transmission and rear end is far more important than gas vs diesel or hp and torque. Learn this. Load stability and how much breaking force is required is all that matters. Screw a diesel. Costs are through the roof because of ignorance. Fuel is more expensive and cost less to make than gas. DO NOT BUY into all the BS !!!!! Ps. Horse power is what you make after your engine has done it’s work. It’s the ability to sustain the load. Torque is the muscle used to get it up to speed and up the hill. Not HP.
