One of the main reason for using deep 1/2" drive impact sockets when room isn't a issue is that they hit harder. It makes sense because if you use a bigger hammer to hit something then what your hitting will move faster. Thanks for the video
Yep its like the fat crank pulley sockets alot of people don't believe they work till they try them bc they think they'll lose torque but they hit harder and work good
New guys and experienced guys, been in industrial maintenance for close to a decade and never really understood why some sockets were bulky and some weren't, honestly I used to call the bulky ones "cheap" but WOW. I'm a believer now, thank you for the knowledge!
What a great demonstration! Heavy, solid impact sockets make a huge difference. I have a couple of sets of harbor freight impact sockets, both regular and deep well-not stylish, kind of clumsy, and hard to read size markings that are etched. But they have mass and are heavy - even my M12 impact DRIVER w 1/2 inch adapter - had no problems taking a 90ft lb lug off my Jeep WJ. Used that same small driver to squeeze it into small places from beneath the WJ to zip off bolts holding the exhaust pipe to the exhaust manifold-again no problems w those heavy sockets. I since got the M12 stubby, but it goes to show that Milwaukee tools often punch above their weight class with heavy sockets.
This makes me not want to buy sockets that neck up in size....would rather look for ones that are a consistent diameter the length of the socket. Never thought about this before, but makes sense.
Bigger anvil hits harder and lasts longer while using the same size socket. I have the stubby m12 3/8 drive and also the 1/2drive version. I bought both on the same day in may 2020. The 1/2” drive has held up considerably better than the 3/8”drive, which at this point has a real noticeable wobble in the anvil. It is true that a bigger hammer or anvil in this case, hits harder. Lug removal with 19mm with the 3/8 vs the 1/2 is a noticeable difference, while using the m12 6.0ah battery.
To me, for the 250 ft/lb and less category, I love my M12 3/8" Milwaukee stubby as it has the same torque specs as the M18 Compact in a smaller footprint (brake jobs, fasteners 17mm and smaller). For everything else in that true mid-torque range, I have the new Gen-2 M18 Mid-Torque in 3/8" & 1/2". This covers 99% of what I'm removing as it does have 3 different available settings. For that occasional big job, the M18 2767 High Torque has never let me down, but even then, I rarely need it as the new mid-torque dominates that 250+ ft/lb. range. Just seems this M18 compact is just a redundant waste right now, unless all you care to have is the M18 platform.
Just ordered a gen 3 m18 compact 3/8" and excited to work on my car and projects with ease! First thing i'm testing is a 2jz crank pully set @ 239 ft lbs; which is the most extreme thing it would be facing.
Hi, excellent video ty so much, I’m getting the 1/2” impact it’s very easy to use, they are identical and exactly the same, the socket made the difference and that was very impressive, keep up your excellent videos, regards, Bob,
I'm actually more curious to see the 1/2" vs the 3/8" with 1/2" adapter. The specs on the tools rate the 1/2" as being more powerful. I'd be curious to see if it's only because the sockets are heavier or if the tool itself is actually more powerful
thanks for the vid. I have the 3/8 stubby and a co worker has the 1/2. he chose 1/2 bc he does more undercarriage work than me. In "real life" situations such as the sitting axle bolt at the end, I tend to see a huge difference in power. Even when i dont need an adapter, the 1/2 anvil can remove stuff the 3/8 stubby cannot. I thought here too the 1/2 would really outperform the 3/8. I feel its the same reasoning as the snap on vs the mac sockets in that the anvil has more mass to transfer power. At the end of the day, its like you said; its what you prefer.
I have the M12 tools, right angle, stubby, extended and M18 mid... The 3/8" anvils all seem to hit harder and do the job better. The right angle was the most notable in this regard. I bought the 1/2" mid, and went with that due to the fact I have more 1/2" sockets and did not want to compromise the compactness of the mid for tight spaces. It is getting the job done, no clue about the anvil sizes, same tools.
I didn't really come to that conclusion with this video. I think it really depends on what you intend on working on. If it's your only impact I'm thinking 3/8 mid torque would be the most versatile. If you need more power they can do more with high output batteries. If you're hitting 650 ft-lbs on the regular then maybe the tools you need is a high torque. 1/2 High torque 3/8 Mid-Torque Then compact ir stubby size would really depend on use case. I bought a 3/8 mid due to price differences, but after looking at the socket size differences I can see how the 3/8 will allow me to get my wrench in more locations. I thought I made a mistake by going 3/8, but i know the mid torque will chew up and spit out crank shaft or CV bolts no matter which anvil I choose.
@WHO WHO WALKWA If you're trying to go with one tool, mid torque will probably do most of what you need unless you're worried about rusted/stuck bolts while still fitting in most places. If you can go two tools, 1/2 M18 high torque and either 1/2 or 3/8 M18 compact or M12 stubby.
@WHO WHO WALKWA - 3/8 Fuel M18 compact or M12 stubby - 1/2 Fuel M18 high torque - 3/8 Fuel M12 high speed ratchet (The speed is way more important to me than the extra torque of the other M12 Fuel ratchets.) If you feel like adding a mid torque, go for it. I've never used the M12 Fuel right angle impacts to give you an input on them.
You do get a little more jam out of the m18 but that’s not the reason to buy it IMO, I also own both and the reason I bought the m18 was for use at the scrap yard or for roadside jobs where I don’t have access to an outlet, you can get significantly more mileage (in my experience) from a 6/8ah m18 so you don’t have to bring nearly as many batteries along.
It's a tool like the M12 3/8 that make me wish I used Milwaukee's platform. Don't get me wrong; I love my Makita 18V, but that 3/8 wrench is pretty appetizing.
Dude go buy it. I used that tiny m12 to change out my truck’s suspension. Fits in tight places, like around struts, control arms, wheel hubs etc. and it removed every bolt I tried it on, most were 17mm you won’t regret it man
@WHO WHO WALKWA if we’re only talking power tools, I can tell you what I use, I do all the work on my truck, that’s because it hasn’t needed any real engine or transmission work, by that I mean, I haven’t had to tear it open to replace internals. That being said, I started out with the brushed version of Milwaukee’s impact driver and drill driver. They got me by fine. I soon after bought the m18 fuel gen 1 mid torque impact wrench. Haven’t had a bolt it couldn’t take off. But I haven’t tried removing my crank pulley bolt. The m12 fuel stubby works great for suspension bolts and brakes for me. Might be worth a mention to try and get a right angle impact wrench. I’ve been looking at one to fit into spaces the m12 stubby wouldn’t fit. Hope this helps
@WHO WHO WALKWA yeah I think you’d get by just fine with a high torque and a stubby. The cordless ratchet in my opinion isn’t a necessary tool, only because if you have sockets, you probably own a ratchet I think the cordless ratchet is only good for saving time backing off fasteners Not for busting loose tough ones ya know? Impact wrenches save the hassle of getting giant breaker bar and throwing a pipe extension on it to remove tough nuts
@WHO WHO WALKWA I think it’ll do most jobs it can fit to reach. If not, some extensions on the high torque will get it goin, I’m sure. I don’t think you want to replace your ratchet with an impact for all scenarios But yeah most of the time if you can reach it with a ratchet, you can get it with a stubby, in my experience. The only place I haven’t been able to use an impact wrench was on top nuts for my struts
@WHO WHO WALKWA definitely don’t take everything I’m saying to be 100% true, your experiences will be different from mine. But I think the 3/8 stubby and high torque will be a good addition to your tool box
Be aware,.. despite these tools being very good and brilliant battery life,...I have been using the 1/2" drive for 9 years, my wrist is now wrecked , setting 3 is killer even on tractor wheel nuts......I'm a agricultural mechanic ...CI
Only 2 ways to avoid that. Only use long breaker bars, or really big impacts that break the bolt loose as fast a possible. Even if you use hand tools that’s putting force on your wrists as well.
The new 3/8 gen 4 has 250 drive compared to gen 3 at 160 lb. Drive. Both still have the same nut bust at 250 ft lb. I like the stubby for tight areas and small bolts.
DCF891 does 800 ft lbs , and my DeWalt 923b is a great ⅜ for getting around a car. But if I'm ever truly stuck, I have the beast waiting. (*891) , for small bolts like inside the interior or engine internals I really recommend the 887 impact driver! Those are my 3. I'd love the 10lbs DCF900 THAT DOES LIKE 1600 FT LBS , but that is for like a farm tractor 🚜 #DeWalt #Fam
Purchased this 3/8 impact tool based on other RU-vid reviews which stated it does Remove lug nuts from tires, also it was stated it had the same power as the 1/2 impact tool. to my disappointment it does nut remove the lug nuts on my Dodge Ram. Recommend Milwaukee #2962-201/2 mid torque for lug nuts w/650 lbs. torque
It's a good comparison however from my experience of working on cars you also need to consider the climate you live in. Where salt on the roads is common and you get your fair amount of rainfall 3/8" drive is just not beefy enough for a lot of applications. 1/2" can also fail the closer to the blacktop you get with your car. I did my 2013 XV front and rear calipers last year, new brake discs (rotors) and pads all round. Forget spanners or 3/8" sockets I ended up using 1/2" drive sockets on a breaker bar just to remove the caliper mounting bolts. Vehicles mileage at the time of replacement was about 32k miles. Long live oxy acetylene.
I recently bought an M18 FUEL GEN-3 18-Volt Lithium-Ion Brushless Cordless 3/8 in. Compact Impact Wrench with Friction Ring Kit #2854-20 and I was shocked that despite a full charge, it couldn't remove 17mm lugnuts. I tried it on my rear shock on my Triumph Bonneville (6mm hex) and no luck either. I grabbed my DeWalt Atomic 3/8" 20v impact wrench and it handled both with no issue. I may have got a dud. I returned it to Home Depot and got another DeWalt.
I'm a DYI'er and looking for an impact wrench driver. Not sure if I'll have more need for a 1/4" or 3/8" or 1/2" impact sized driver in the future and don't want to buy 2-3 different sized drivers. Is it possible to go from 1/2" to 3/8" to 1/2" and vice versa by just using a socket attachment adaptor instead no matter which drive size I get? thx
I'm honestly surprised that the snapon sockets mattered that much, I guess that just proves that snap-on impact sockets are better, at least better than mac.
Do you think the Ingersoll Rand Power Socket would work well with this wrench? I have a compact and wonder if it has the juice to swing a big socket Thanks, great video
i wonder how much weight in the Milwaukee 1/2” socket been using 3/8” M12 stubby when it first came out in 2018 here in Canada i use a Wiha shallow 19mm and 22mm chrome socket and been knocking out 80 to 100 lb lug nuts off winter sumner multiple Honda and Acura still work
So for a guy that currently uses ratchets and hand tools for everything. I do have some air tools but no longer have a big enough compressor. If I was going to buy 1 tool do you think the 18volt 1/2 inch compact is the way to go or the 3/8? Having the 1/2 inch sort of seems necessary for front end work and lug nuts on larger vehicles.
Mr.Subura,can I get those two impact gun at Lowe's or Home Depo..I don't have my Snap on guy or Mac tool guys..I like the smaller version of the impact guns. I have all the heavy black sockets .short n long .
For all-around DIY stuff working on my Jeep Wrangler, rotating tires on my wife's Audi, wondering if one of these is all I will need or should I go to a Mid-Torque to be sure I never run out of power... What do the pros say?
@@MrSubaru1387 LOL sorry no I was just thinking of the overall maintenance I would be doing there are some simple cover and stuff in the way that I would need to remove to get to the plugs.
i see diffrent in price for 3 tpye of models Milwaukee Fuel M18 Compact Impact Wrench Review Gen 3 | 1/2" Model 2855-20 | 3/8" 2854-20 2767-20 M18 GEN 2 3/8" or 1/2"? - Milwaukee M18 FUEL Compact Impact Wrenches [2854 & 2855] can u help me to find out wich one is the strongest and better model 2960 model 2854 - 2855 model 2767 - gen 2 im lost
What do you think is more user friendly, with power aside, I would think that 3/8 would be ideal for everything because adding adapters making the tool longer is fine for outside of the car but worse for the inside (I’m thinking about getting the m12 stubby) what’s your suggestion am I going to lose lot of power with 3/8 to 1/2 adapter for getting to tires and stuff
I used ru-vid.comUgkx4ynqaujg7rZKFapA8s29kTpRszJGa3-K this for the first time today to replace the front wheel bearing on my rwd 98 dodge dakota. This had absolutely no issue removing or reinstalling the lug nuts and it took off the axle nut without any struggle. Sounds like it's got some muscle to it. Time will tell