Jay you should have told them when a shop screws your block up they almost always with lie and say you had load shift. Which is them blaming the casting and not there work
heeey Jay, i wanted to ask you what did you especificly have to study to obtain this level of knowledg in engines you have? in my country the tipe of thing you do is very rare so i cant get much information. love your videos
Mate - szenario - I got ma 2.5l 10.5:1 on petrol engine and soon work it up and fuel it with CNG, highering the compression to 13,5, whereas thru the lower volumetric efficiency of the CNG iam ending up with 5% less power but a way better environmental and economic outcome... However, I want to set up a H2 engine using the same MPI and a 1.5 bar supercharger, getting it up to 20:1 compression you need for efficient H2 burn... however, thru the 50 percent lower volumetric efficiently, I still end up with 10% less power than the original 170 hp... what do you thing? I would put high temp high compression valves for sure, but would you also do something with the block? We get not more power, but compression more
I need to source a wet sleeve with a 3.890" ID and about 4.570" OD. Is there anywhere you could suggest I start looking for find liners about this size?
Hi Jay, you mention that the darton wet sleeves have an o ring at the bottom so they can be removed and reinstalled multiple times, on my engine made by Rover, we also use liners but from factory we have to use a none epoxy sealant, I assume if I decided I want to try the o ring route, I would need to have the sleeves 'step' machined up a little to take the thickness of the crushed o ring as the sleeves have to sit 4 thousands above the block deck so the gasket can seal, im guessing i need to work out how much they will crush as I couldnt just leave them 4 thou above without the head on as they would drop down once the head has been torqued down.................sorry for the long question, but if you can let me know what you think I would be most grateful. Lee
i have never had to re sleeve an engine, i have seen a jaguar sleeve rust thru from the rotten rusty old anti freeze that rusted thru the sleeve, but never from damage and i just rebuilt a mitsubishi evo 7 engine to 650hp and that is on stock sleeves with forged crank rods and pistons running a LINK G4(KIWI made/ made in New Zealand)
i'd like to know if it is a good idea to replace a factory sleeve from a porsche m96 engine and replace it with one with a thicker wall (keeping the inner diameter stock) i'm not about increasing power but rather about increasing engine reliability since the m96 engines are known for warping. will thicker sleeves prevent that or will they increase the probability of the cylinders getting warped? i'm reading different opinions on that from so called porsche experts and i don't know whom to trust.
Jay ,I have a question, I have a d2 caterpillar 4 cylinder. Wet sleeves engine,cant find sleves.my question is can you dry sleeve a wet sleeve, sleve has a lot of material. Maybe I could press a dry sleeve in to it after bored.
Hello there great video! I have a question. What type of sleeve and piston would work on an engine which was initially nikasil? I have an xr650r. I bought it sleeved with wiseco piston and it keeps overheating and blowing the engine. The sleeve is common cast iron i believe from diesel engine truck. Thank you any advise is valuable.
Would it be worth sleeveing a b16 a2 block for cylinders my 3rd cylinder is going out low pressure my friend told me sleeve it i don’t know much about cars I dnt plan on putting a turbo maybe heard small things
O ring with closed deck vs sleeves. If sleeves are better than what would ensure a good gasket seal like o ring does with closed deck. Engine in question: ej257
for subie go 2.12 stroker=better spool and makes car more fun. Sti crank, stroker rods, and pistons, 2.0 block closed deck, build 2.0 heads, Stage 2 cams, rotated twin scroll gtx 3071, fmic, supporting tuning and fuel get a stage 3 clutch 500 awhp all day with conservative tune ....or you can buy mine!!
I just had a cyl sleeve installed in a 4.6 4v Ford engine in an 03 Mach 1. It was a new block and fully built, forged everything... then the fucking thing hydrolocked at about 1000 miles from a faulty FRPS. Bent a rod and damaged one of the cylinder walls. I'm waiting for the engine to actually get put back in the car, but my question is how reliable can I expect this to be? I'm kind of thinking about just selling the damn thing to be safe, which sucks. I've dumped a lot of money into building it and adding a blower. What should I do, sell or keep?
Hi. I have a H22A4 engine in a prelude, and the block have nikasil. The nikasil is very deteriorate and I wonder If i can bore the block so i can fit a bigger piston (20mm) without the need to use a sleeve.
there is another reason. Engine damage that ruined the original bore beyond safe over bore limits. I have an old Pontiac 421 H.O engine from 1964. Very rare and hard to find especially since its a 4sp code block. Engine sat for many years with water in the bore. Corroded it beyond a +60 over bore. Let alone the +60 on all the holes of a virgin block is a sin. Leaving future rebuilds at resleeving all the holes. +60 is about as far as you can take a Pontiac block. So what do we do? Sleeve the one hole and do a +20 to clean up the whole thing.
Hey Jay, in your opinion is there ANY performance benefit to using a rebuilder sleeve material over a cast in place OEM sleeve ? Like in a situation where your bore isn't damaged and seals fine...but going to an aftermarket sleeve that is not flanged...any benefit? Thanks for your help...👍
In the case the cylinder has a crack in it and you need to put an aftermarket sleeve in to use that engine again: is it possible the existing crack in the cylinder wall gets bigger so the block will develop a new leak after a while? I have read this on a a forum and don't know if it's true.
Darton MID. Stock block has been known to survive 650hp but it will not be reliable. Always overbuild because you know you will want more power later. Buy the most heavy duty rods and pistons you can afford. Build it once and build it right. That way you can throw 200 shot of nitrous , gt30r,gt35r,gt40r or gt42r on it if you want! Good luck!
Break in specific oil it needs to be detergent free. I'd recommend amsoil (best oil out there) but if on a budget like almost all n54 owners get royal purple motel or Lucas
What's your power output goal? D16 motors are very good and reliable with a good tune and build. Especially if your building the motor. Sleeves aren't needed unless your going above 400-500hp. By then you'll need to get some sleeves
I just bought the Darton Dry Sleeves (300-012) on your eBay Store and now I’m a little bit worried. I’m about to rebuild my B16A2 engine and I want to keep the standard pistons’ bore (81mm). I don’t want to install oversized pistons (81.25mm or bigger). I already bought the JDM OEM P30 Pistons (81mm). Tell me something... Am I going in the wrong way? (Sorry for my bad english)
I would call Darton themselves (760) 603-9895, they are a pleasure to deal with and you get proper information, they know engines. I worked with them before when I was sleeving an S2000 AP1 Block. I drove to their HQ and dropped it off and you can see how they machine them. They are at 2380 Camino Vida Roble # K, Carlsbad, CA 92011 if you're so inclined to pay them a visit.
Let's just say when I had my S2000, I dropped a valve and it frisbee'd within a cylinder, it barely nicked it! Darton sleeves are used in NHRA Top Fuel. So If you're not making 8000 HP of which matches Top Fuel no way in God's green earth you're going to be cracking or distorting one!
@@sleasy01 thanks, sleeved one, is there any problem? The mchine work told me it takes longer wait if i sleeves all 4cyl so i sleeve only the damaged 1 cyl hole. Is it a wrong decision?
For 1000+ Wheel Horsepower your going to want flanged sleeves bud. RBs and 2js are amazing motors but 1000 whp is over the top. Even going slightly above the stock horsepower I like to put aftermarket sleeves. I'm running 510whp in my cobra and I'm running T-56 Sleeves. Any power output that is double i recommend sleeves
you cant compare a cobro motor to a supra 2jz or skyline rb motor lol nobody uses sleeves on them and triple the horse power no worries, forged pistons etc yes but not sleeves
mr2paddy Yes you can lol. It's a engine. Cobra motors are known to be a strong, reliable, built tough engine for high power outputs. I didn't have to sleeve my motor but I did it so it'll last for the years I have It. 2jz and rbs are great motors. But if you want to be reliable and have no worries I'd personally rebuild the whole engine and block walls(sleeves)
Depends on your tune. That also depends on other things too like fuel quality, engine temperature, spark, bore size. The weak point in a b20 block is the sleeves them selves. They are thin and joined together. They are known to crack between sleeves. Other b series blocks have the sleeves separated by a aluminum "flange" and are thicker. The only way to make a b20 block last longer while making power is to sleeve the block. Not many machine shops are willing to sleeve the b20 block though. I've only heard of golden eagle sleeving blocks. I guess the other way to have a proper 84mm bore b series would be to sleeve a gsr or a b18b block. Darton mid sleeves can come in a 84mm bore.
When we did them in the machine shop I worked at we used a Rottler Boring Bar to cut the block to .002" smaller than the sleeve OD. We would also cut a step in the bottom of the cylinder. The sleeve would then be pushed into the block using a hydraulic press. The sleeve would contact the step in the block. That is what held the sleeve in place at the bottom. The block deck would then be milled to cut off the excess sleeve sticking out the top of the block. When finished most people could not tell where the sleeve and block met. The head gasket would keep the sleeve from working itself up. We never had a come back on any sleeve work. At one time we had the contract to sleeve all the OM636 diesel blocks for the local Thermoking rebuilder.
No...If it's bore is in spec a new sleeve will do nothing! A sleeve is a repair beyond a few boring operations to bring it back to stock size OR to make a big bore(which would increase power but in this case it's not the sleeve but it's the extra displacement). Nikasil plating could yield a boost due to lower friction, especially at high rpms!
In theory, yes. But most factory cylinders can't be bored enough to notice a significant difference. Boring and stroking will give your engine noticeable HP gains.
hello everyone, anyone can help me to suggest whats the ideal piston to wall clearance since i'm building my engine with this kind of sleeve with forge piston. the machinist suggest 0.09mm but during first start i could hear the piston slap sound. is it normal or i can coat the piston skirt to reduce the sound? much appreaciaate for any suggestion or ideas thanks!
Hello, .09mm or .0035inch is the general safe and "tight" spec for a 2618 forging on small bore engines. Keep in mind that engine block material, stroke along with piston design are all contributing factors in the noise you hear. Offset pins are often a good move if the noise bothers you. You can also coat the skirt. There are some abradable coatings that can be installed to get your noise to a factory level. Thanks
@@jaymeagher1510 thanks for replying mate! actually on another aftermarket brand that piston comes with the block( ceramic coating) didnt have that much clearance some have only 0.05mm. is it because they are ceramic? unlike mine that use non ceramic sleeve so the manufacturer suggest higher clearance? whats the ideal operating temperature in order to reduce the slapping sound?
@@ezzatluqman No problem, You'd have to be more specific about the coating and piston material. It is possible to use coatings that are zero skirt clearance and wear to conform to the bore of the engine, there were even some OEM engines that came like this. Also don't assume a clearance number is noisy if you didn't double check the measurements. The engines I do with .0035-.004in PTW have very slight noise when cold and when they warm up they're totally fine.
So theoretically, if I wanted to sleave (let's say an older Toyota motor) roughly how much extra strength does a motor gain? (I'm aware it takes other things to strengthen a motor as a whole [such as cranks and heads] but eliminating those things, I'm referring to the block specifically. )
Mrjohnnymoo1 That youll have to ask someone else... Cause i believe it depends on the motor. Subaru ej25s benefits pretty hugely from new sleeves. While the ej22 has some pretty good sleeves and you dont need to change them
