This is perfect for me, just about to look at what parts I need to rebuild my 2j. Helped alot 👍👍👍 Jay is the type of person you could listen to for ages haha
This is one of the technically most insightful videos on RU-vid. My track day LS3 is on the way out with a bad lifter and this helps me understand all the things I need to be thinking about when I rebuild. Cheers!
😢😢😢👏👏👏 *I'm currently buying parts to rebuild my 2jz-ge Lexus gs300 and I wanted about 400-500 street power, with comfort. THIS VIDEO IS WORTH SO MUCH!!!*
@@realstreetperformance THE TIME IS NOW!!! Lol. If you have a 400-500hp package I'll buy it! If I could just send it to you/yall that would be even better.
This is such an incredibly good, and detailed video. I have watched it at least 5 times this week because every time I watch it I learn something new that I missed last time! So much knowledgeable information. Please make more like this. The more details and science behind it the better. Again, great video. Can’t say it enough. THANK YOU!
You guys are amazing. You have explained everything very well and clearly to a beginner like me. I believe if I play around with the numbers bit more then I will be able to find the correct and precise number. Hats of to Real ST
Liked the video. Great info. Great job. Very helpful starting point Engine Bible for beginners! Awesome. The only thing that made it hard to watch through the whole way was the editing music re-intro into a new part or subject matter. That little tune/jingle got to me. Very annoying. Could just be me though. Keep up the great videos.
It's one thing to know your craft it's another to be able to teach it. Mission accomplished. The advice and approach here is priceless. If you ever revise or have a 2nd follow up quench gap could be good addition.
For a new engine build I always try to buy a new bare block and new crank. I then use standard size forged pistons and ibeam rods. But an experienced engine builder will always check the piston to wall clearance and not assume it is within recommended spec of the piston manufacturer. Another important factor is to have an experienced engine builder that has worked on your platform. Even better when they have extensive experience in sleeving your block. Having top tier machinery like a 5 axis cnc and does the assembly. The less people who touch your motor, the better. When a builder has to farm out machining services that is just another factor that introduces the possibility of human error. I’ve learned to select the right parts by research on what high hp builds are using. But over the years I’ve gathered this information, like using +625 ARP rod bolts and head studs. Always use proven parts like Cometic head gaskets, ACL race bearings, choosing pistons with the heavy duty wrist pins. For a turbo car block to head sealing is very important to keep from lifting and causing a head gasket failure with high boost pressures. I will do my due diligence and ask the parts manufacturer the correct gap ring size for your car’s application while giving that information to who is assembling your motor.
sitting here after work just to learn and i think you just saved me, i am waiting on my block to get back from sleeving and have the rotating assembly in my office. my goals are about 900 hp on a k24 and you made mention of the wrist pins, so i got to going through boxes and saw it was pretty anemic, i called wiseco and they said it was good for 500 whp, i asked them what the upgraded pin would be, they gave me the number and ordering i went. that 130 dollar upgrade may have just saved me 12k longblock. i feel look a fool for not looking at the wrist pin wall thickness earlier.
Got an entry level job interview at FFRE... here I am trying to get as smart as possible.. really hope they call me back.. would be such an awesome job
Forget about H beams, all builds. Without getting into metallurgy or mass, just look at the geometry: one rib to resist fwd/rear flex and two for lateral forces. This is backwards. The crank is in motion on a running engine, so absent doing something insane with timing or fuel, peak pressure happens after tdc, and any lateral rod flex has a place to unload. What is needed is more resistance to fwd/rear flex, and an I beam is the right tool for the job in staying away from a bent or broken rod.
Hey Jay, I wanted to know if you would do a top end builders guide in the future? Would love to know what options you put for certain parameters and horsepower goals. 👍
Glad I found this video. Because I’m going to need this “Bible” for my build. I swear y’all are going to think I’m making this up BUT I GO... I own a Imported 1988’ JDM RHD Mitsubishi Galant VR4 (4g63 DSM) and I just had a harmonic balancer failure, which ate through the timing belt cover...cause my serpentine belt to “walk off” the pulley and somehow find its way into the timing belt cover and into the timing belt compartment, which lead to motor “jump timing”. Now tell me this ain’t some freaky series of events 🧐🤨😡
I know this is a bottom end build guide but I'm not sure if you skipped over this or just left it out but when it comes to CR you need to also take into consideration camshaft profiles. Camshaft profiles can drastically change your dynamic compression ratio. Thats why some engines with high CR can run on pump gas as their camshafts have lots of overlap causing the dynamic CR to be low enough not to cause detonation.
This was great didn't quite answer the question I have for rebuilding an LS but gave me a great overall view of the components going in, tell Trevor Bayly said whats up.
@@realstreetperformance Cheers! I don't suppose you have a recommendation on a set of aftermarket pistons that are FRM compliant? I came to a halt last year when I enquired with Honda about some OEM 05 F20C pistons and they wanted over £1800 at mates rates! I then bought some good used 01 pistons then found they revised the piston skirt lubrication and didn't use them, so that's when I stopped sadly. I am determined to build an F20!
Great video, just been going over all this with my engine builder for my 7mgte, literally just bought a set of forged Carrillo pistons/rings and Eagle H beam rods from Real Street, way to go, these guy's give great service as I found when I ordered the ATI harmonic balancer a few weeks ago, hi from Australia BTW.
Jay is a mech mastermind. Very helpful video as always. But us Motorheads need to get together n fight the EPA before we cant build out cars unless it doesnt have a VIN #
audio is unbalanced throughout the video some clips the voice is too low and the titles have a back track which is too high. but in the information is very good!!
I changed my turbo setup three times in 10 years.....because I was too chicken to go 1000hp. wasted $$$ Still on the same long block.........I suggest spend the money ( 30K) to get the results....You still have to do lots of work or 30K won't be enough. I like the powerband of a small motor ...
Thanks Jay.. this is really helpful, great information.... 39:35.. although the aluminum bearing can be used up to ~500hp street engine.....if you plan on making more than that you'll need to see if a "race bearing" is available for your application... 45:49...🤣
Where was I a year ago?! Hahah not modding my car that's where. 🤣 thanks for the video real st, this is good information. I didn't really have an HP goal for my VQ engine, I had strength and longevity in mind and keep engine measurement specs to OEM. I just want a strong block that can handle boost for high potential HP gains for street and weekend track use.
