Does your Tube Amp Need A Load Box Attenuator? 

You can get good bedroom volume ish tone?

@@daviddakin6529 yes. the captor x has three power levels. however if you’re below a certain level, a guitar speaker won’t react very pleasant any more. then it’s better to disconnect the guitar speaker and use studio monitors instead.

Hi, this is an amazing idea that i’m looking for in the last months! For a live use, SV20 + torpedo captor X could be a good solution? Maybe the -20db are just too much to attenuate? Thank you.

He hasn’t seen my video edit yet, I’m wait big for a phone call.

I think Paul left that it on purpose.

I got the wife to push the pedal.

They are good aren't they? I have played lots of amps through mine and play them hive and loud

That is just the amp. Since you are attenuating you can crank the amp up more, so it is breaking up and compressing more. Even without the load box, hitting the amp with a boost when it is that cranked won't bring the level up, just the gain. I had the same problem when I first started attenuating, you just have to lower the gain level on the amp to get more headroom for that boost.

@@john808welk yupzz extacly this. Otherwise its just gets into mush.

But overpriced.

It’s a good option but not the same thing, your going to reduce your preamp gain going into the power tubes. But if it achieves the tone you want then it’s a great option.

@@TheStudioRats i think even my Marshall dsl 1watt head is too loud to crank up at home. Surprised how loud the 1 watt is. I bought it because I thought it would be usable at home. Not the case! Will have to get the Bugera power soak.

You’d need 2 captors

Hi Don, sure. I’d love to if Fryette send me one to review.

I felt the same

Just the amp Corin.

@@TheStudioRats Thats good to know thanks! I've been using a cheap jhs little black amp box in the effects loop to control the volume. Although I've forked out on a fryette ps-100 which I'm hoping will improve the tone of the amp... Can't be worse anyway!

Yes it is

oh lord was about to get it@@TheStudioRats

If you crank the Marshall and have it on an attenuator, does your speaker setup still need to be able to handle the 100 watts fully or does the attenuator enable you to also get away with using lets say a 30 watt speaker since it’s taking on the load too? I’m a bit confused as to what kind of load ends up on the actual speaker set up after an attenuator since the amp is pumping out a lot of power. I’m also looking into old marshalls, I’d appreciate some help ! Thanks

@@heythere6983 An attenuator is in effect lowering the output wattage on the speakers, that's what reduces the volume. The attenuator is soaking up that extra wattage and dissipating it as heat, so, yes, it is a wattage reducer...you'll see that marked on newer Orange amps that come with an attenuator function built in, they're noted to what wattage is being let out. The question then becomes at what wattage rate is it reducing it by? Some attenuators (Koch Amps Loadbox II is one example) will list the wattage or percentage being let out to speakers, others do not. And since the load box is going between the head and speaker it is generally okay to use lower wattage speakers but with caution as to knowing what that final wattage is that's coming into the speaker. Example, If you have a 100 watt amp and you've attenuated it in half you're output is still at about 50 watts (just used as an example, not entirely sure of the ratios, you may want to check that). Reduced to a quarter and its output will be at about 25 watt output, safe to use on a 30 watt speaker (again, just an example, double check for the actual ratio of attenuation to wattage output). Also make sure whatever load box you pick it is matched to the wattage output of the amp or exceeds it. Don't use a 50 watt attenuator on a 100 watt amp, 100 watt amps often, when cranked, exceed 100 watts. So for a 100 watt amp, make sure any box you get exceeds that or matches it; generally for 100 watt amps, 120 watts is the load RMS for them. The other very important factor is to match the ohm output. If it's a 16 ohm load going into a 4 ohm attenuator it won't fry the speaker it will fry the transformer in the amp as all that resistance will be fed back into the amp and will burn it out, which is an expensive repair. I would also recommend a reactive attenuator, not a resistive one, reactive boxes are kinder to the tone, but cost more. Hope that helps. Best of luck. One other note, when I got that Plexi I already had that Rivera Rockcrusher and wrote to Rivera asking if it could handle a dimed 100 watt Plexi, and they were very helpful and told me: we designed it around that amp. Perfect fit.

Hi, I’ve been using the Waza with a JCM800 for 2 years with no issues. You just need to look for a reliable attenuator (Waza, OX, Rockcrusher) rather than that the only recommendation is to always check the connections and double check the attenuator is turned on before turning on the amp.

Good question, the Jubilee has a vent on the back so I’m not worried about it over heating. If I’m honest, I’m sure its fine but I’d rather not plug my amps into a cheap attenuator. I really appreciate the offer though. As I said I’m sure its fine I just had a couple of bad experiences with Bugera.

@@TheStudioRats thats fair enough , its kind of why i was wondering on your thoughts on it. Yea im not worried about the vent myself as like you stated it has the back vent too, i just noticed the bottom of my katana head was getting warm , not hot but warm lol. Going back to the bugera , it really allows me to crank the jubilee for that sweet nectar. What would potentially be your main concerns and how could that lead to damaging the amp? I do consider the captor x for headphone playing but i really detest playing with headphones for some reason. On the flip side though it would allow me to play more and longer though .

@@attillal4821 its only as ive blown up a couple of amps previously, not with a bugera loadbox but I’m just really cautious. If you have used it for a while i think you’ll be absolutely fine and its just me being an old woman.

@@TheStudioRats i’m about 3 months in i guess its fine then. For now 🤣

I have not tried the Bugera, but I do know it is a resistive attenuator (most lower priced ones are) as opposed to a reactive (preferred) attenuator. Reactive means it's emulating a speaker's impedance curve and more fine tuned to the actual amp's sound and the way it interacts with a speaker cab. Resistive can be much more a tone sucker and can effect the feel of an amp's true sound, more so when the amp is cranked. A good reactive one means one can take a 100 watt amp down to 1 watt without any jarringly noticeable tone change and the way it feels, just a lower volume.

You can get a Kleinulator but it’s not perfect.

@@TheStudioRats cheers for the reply lads, love the channel by the way, I'm looking to put together a smaller more portable setup for live playing as I use a Friedman twin sister combo at the mo and a helix for effects, can't do the amp models on it hate them and tried the fractal fm9, it's on its way back too, I was thinking either these hook wizard ir amps or the suhr pt15 ir and waiting for the blue amp x coming out, I know Paul's demo' d a few of em, what's your take on them, love your playing Paul by the way any chance of some lessons 😂

Hi Jonny, yes it works the same, crank that master volume!

It depends, i use Friedman amp and it got a great great master volume. Don't need attenuator.

No, all that who’ll do is to turn down the preamp and starve the power amp.

Painted toenails as well!!

Weird Dainty little feet.

I’m afraid both are mono. I agree it would be so good if it did. However the Line out is stereo.

@Joseph Lateo Been using mine for 2 years heavily with no issues.

Can It bring my 1987x with a 1960 4x12 down to bedroom levels? I've been stuck with it since i havent had any gigs in a while and seems like i wont be using it for gigs for some time.

@@s0da.-. really depends on the watts. The Bugera claims to handle 100 watts but I would not use it with any amp over 60. 100 watt amps tend to peak around 150-180 watts when cranked. For that I would use a THD Hotplate

@@riffsnoleads i have the reissue, its rated at 50 watts and im not looking to fully push It to the limit often, just now and then.

@@s0da.-. it'll do just fine then. I have an Origin 50 that I push hard and it is fine

Two notes make great stuff.