I was confused on the chimney instruction, I thought you were going to pull it out for inspection. Good video though, it reduced my stress about checking out our own old rv fridge. Thank you.
Hi from a Canadian rv er ,like your video ,put fan on top vent makes fridge work much better,draws 1amp use with power hook up . Also start fridge 2 days before trip and put frozen ice bottle in freezer and one in fridge crisper drawer when leaving never have any problem with temp in fridge. Big Ben GD 2600RB.
Very good video oh, one thing I noticed is I don't have a thermal coupler. Not there anyways I don't know where it is if I do have one at all you would think I would have to but I took that thing apart and change the igniter and didn't say a thermal coupler anywhere
Thanks for the video, I am going to do this now. found some leaves and dust. Be sure the ignitor is not touching the burner tuber when installing it. I got it a bit crooked and its was resting on the burner tube. Backed off the screw and adjusted it. A flashlight helps.
Very useful demo, thank you! I have also read that the chimney above the flame should be examined / cleaned with compressed air in case of any bugs or debris . What do you think?
I have a question about the silicone sealant that goes around the outside edge of the access frame on the back of the refrigerator. I don't know if at one time the previous owners didn't have a drain tube installed but on the bottom of the frame on the back access panel there are like three open areas that don't have sealant on them and you can see where it has some streaks of drainage going on. It is still open to the smaller bugs and insects and there is a flexible tube drain now installed. I just wondered if I shouldn't take some silicone and finish sealing up that bottom area of the frame? Also - I was having a problem with a water leak coming in my MaxAir exhaust fan in my bathroom that sits pretty close to the refrigerator. Turns out I had a bad refrigerator roof vent and had to take it to Camping World for replacement. When I got it back home and set up to check out my new and improved refrigerator roof vent I let the refrigerator cool down quite a bit or at least run and when I went out to check on it it hadn't cooled down much in the refrigerator compartment but it was pretty normal in the freezer compartment. Let it run a little bit more and I went out and opened the door to my camper I was met with a blast of hot air like the furnace had been left on but was not. Long question but I'm wondering if Camping World got the wrong refrigerator roof vent or some problem with the replacement process plugging up the flu? This was very unlike my refrigerator with the previous refrigerator roof vent. The heat didn't seem to be escaping the refrigerator compartment and was actually transferring heat into the walls and ceiling of my camper not to mention the roof was getting hot and tacky. I guess I'm glad I didn't try it on LP mode. 🔥 Thank you for the very informative videos as I am doing my best to stay away from Camping World in my maintenance and repairs.
❤good video. I do every thing you did. I also tap on chimney to knock rust and carbon down. I blow out the main jet if it needs it. I go inside and use a Turkey baster and shoot some warm water in drain hole on drain tray. That way I know its clear
Am sure you've checked the 12v fuse in your electrical panel, there are also a couple of fuses that are behind the black plastic cover shown on the left side in the video at 2:11 as well as a possible inline fuse on the red wire in that same location. I am not sure what fuse would power the light, but the light switch in the domestics often goes bad as well. Hope that helps and thanks for watching.
Checking out the area on mine… the chimney is very hot, as is the pump on the left. Still couldn’t get igniter switch to click but wanted to ask about the heat..what would be considered as too hot?
the chimney can get very warm to the touch, specially near the electric heating element or near the burner when running on propane. As for not being about to get the ignigher switch to click, there are a couple fuses under the black contraol panel cover on the left side.
Here you go! I had to do a little bit of trimming with some tin snips to get a real good fix and installs with zip strips.thanks for watching amzn.to/3Rtih9u
I don't yet, but they are on my list of wants after a fridge fire with the first travel trailer we had. They make the tubes filled with FM200 and the run in the $150-$200 price range.
I used a little gun cleaning kit to clean the inside of the burner washed it in soap and water and air dried. For the general compartment an air compressor or some canned air works great for getting rid of the dust and cob webs. Thanks for watching!
It's how the gas coming out of the orifice can pull oxygen with it into the burning tube to burn efficiently. Fire needs oxygen in order to burn. This is similar design in all propane appliances and bbq grills, in grills it's often referred to as an air gate.
Until recently, most RV refridgerators didnt have fans inside to help airflow. Because of this packing them to full can keep the fridge from maintaining an even temperature and cause some items to freeze, while other items to high of a temp for safe food storage. They make little battery operated fans that can help with this. That being said, our Dometic fridge is usually packed pretty full, my wife has gotten pretty good at stacking things just right to allow the fridge to remain evenly cool. Also, allow a full day for the fridge to come up to temp, and try to avoid putting warm food into the fridge, doing this will go a long ways on keeping items cold and fresh. Thanks for watching!
![Dometic RV Refrigerator Maintenance [How to Maintain Your RV Fridge]](/img/logo.svg){kind=logo}
