That is ok if you don't like to do the hard trails. I personally build for the hard trails as those are the ones I enjoy the most. Where I am it is rare to crawl anything, it comes down to rock faces that are slick and require the skinny.
@@MrJoshItIs I like to do the hard stuff too. One thing I have seen in my 35 years of wheeling is there are finesse folks who are really skilled drivers with the ability to negotiate hard obstacles without hurting anything, they use momentum as needed, tire placement and pure ability to recognize what needs to be done.. Then folks that hammer down everywhere they go and could break a anvil in a padded room.. Basic point being though for my response to the thread is 37s can be had a a stock jl rubicon and be quite durable.. For some not so much..
@@scrappyjackalope9558 yeah, I've seen those drivers. I am not that good yet. Also a manual on steep slick rock faces isn't that easy on the drive train. At least how I drive. :)
Here are some of the things I'm doing to put 37's on my Rubicon. Front axle sleeve, c gussets, brake upgrade, steering box, HD ball joints, HD tie rod and drag link, 3.5 lift with new shocks, 4.88 gears front and rear. Like you said pay now or more later. I'll also be upgrading my axles and driveshafts once I sell my kidney.
I’m waiting for the Jeep Dr to have some time to regear my ‘11 Jk rubicon automatic. Got a pro rock 44 housing and American iron ball joints and while he’s regearing to 5.13 getting him to replace the old factory parts for the upgraded ones. I have all the parts just need the labor done. It’s tougher than when waiting to open Christmas presents as a child. I hope the 3.8L doesn’t crap out after that’s done. Belly armor and a roll cage will be after that. I am doing all this to run 37’s and 17” bead locks .Just empty every pocket!
This is why I LOVE the extreme package that came with my new 2022 Jeep Wrangler Rubicon. To me, this is more than enough and it is done. My Jeep looks Fantastic with those 35s and I am very satisfied with this Extreme Package. All covered and under warranty from factory.
I love 37s but I’m currently on 35s and I find them to do almost everything a 37 can. I have no problem going anywhere I want and I attribute that more to the lockers than I do the tires.
I run 37’s on my Wrangler JK. They do an amazing job and I can literally get thru anything. No drivetrain issues, no steering column issues, nothing. I have a rack and a lot of gear, so this kind of tire is necessary for the car.
Where I live, about 40-45mins to the Rubicon and an hour to Fordyce Jeep Trail, 37s are just a requirement, and I run them on heavy KMC beadlocks. It is rare in my area to see anyone on 35s, you are either factory stock(31-33s), or on 37s or bigger(38 or 40+). Our local shops do Ring/Pinion front and rear, parts included, for $1500, it's done frequently so there is a lot of competition between shops keeping prices low. RCV front shafts are $1500, and stainless rear shafts are considerably less($500ish). That's about all that's needed to run 37s or bigger on a '18+ JL, or a '20+ JT in terms of drivetrain. I have a JT-R Diesel on 37s, not re-geared, and its not really needed. It gets 17 city, 24 highway, and has plenty of "go" to merge with traffic on the freeway. We will re-gear and truss when we go to 40s in the fall.
That's crazy 33' are a requirement where I'm at in tx and anything bigger then 35s are laughed at and assumed mall crawlers or just for looks. Haven't heard of needing 37s but I know different areas everyone runs the same size. Like mostly skinny tires in one City or state and super wide in another. 🤷🏻 I like 255/80/17 or 255/85/17 33-34 skinnys are more then enough for me. unless your doing extremely technical wall/🪨 gaping trails but even the Rubicon trail could be done with mostly stock jeep on 33s iv seen it done even with stock new bronco that had 35s. What trails are needed 37s and with such a small wheel base?
@@tenskeeze Anything you see "running the Rubicon" on 33"s or 35"s and a 3" or lower lift are running all the bypasses around the real obstacles. Broncos (those took a beatdown, they looked like they had been in a traffic accident by the end) and stock Wranglers are running every bypass for the real stuff. I don't run the bypasses, I run the trail as it was, not how the easy go-around bypass trails that skip everything. You aren't running SoupBowl or LIttle Sluice on 35s and a low lift, well not without major body damage. Jeepers Jamboree, a yearly event on the Rubicon requires a min of 37"s on Gladiators( I own one, and it's not a small wheelbase, and it's my primary Jeep), and 35"s on Wranglers, and closes off most of the tougher sections, stacks rocks ahead of time, and does crazy levels of "trail grooming" to get their paying customers up through the trail. In my area, we run the Sierra Nevada mountains, and there are many "baby Rubicons" very close by to the real Rubicon. The Rubicon is relentless, but it's not the hardest trail in my local area. The toughest trail in NorCal is Fordyce Jeep Trail, people from out of state come to run the Rubicon and then Fordyce. When you live in this area and run those trails, you view everything through that lens in terms of what is "hard" and what isn't. In my area, Mall Crawlers are on 35s", and have more lights and lightbars, then brains. TX has no mountains, only a tiny area that has rocks, it's a different world compared to CA, by a massive amount.
Stock mud tires on Rubicon get us to incredible places on knarly terrain in the mountains. Two years in we have around 50% time off road and the only time the tires fell short is off-roading in winter before we put our studded tires on. We also bash on the rocks, but make it over
thats why i sold my jeep and bought a jeep rescue recovery Power wagon rig. with a 6.4 Hemi sway bar disconnects front rear 4.10 locking diffs and a 12000lbs warn winch. 37" Goodyear MT/R fits perfect no mods on stock rims. its my daily driver. goes everywhere my wifes jeep goes and more. jeeps to light up front even for 35" tires. you really need to maintain the balance and wear. You maintain your tires with good rotation and balance. they will help so much with driving your jeep on 37 or 35 or 40 even. for a daily driver.
In the process of putting 37s under my 2018 JLU. 4 inch lift, Fox monotube shocks, crate Dana 44's, 4:88 gearing, lockers F/R, new drive shafts F/R. great vid, forgot about the fenders being a potential problem. along with the tailgate, going to have to reinforce that too.
Hi from Puerto Rico, I have a 2011 LexusGX460, put a long travel 3 inch Dobinson suspensión, UCA from SPC and 35x12.5R18 Toyo Open Country MT, My Rig run Great , lose some miles per gallon but not much, i love how she looks
I have the 2020 jl with the 2.0T, it's a Sport with a falcon 3.5 lift. It has the Dana 30. I only trail ride and run the snowy roads in CO. It has 315s measuring 34.7 inch just short of 35s. This video has me spooked. Just order KO2 37s. Should I drop down to 35s? The Turbo seems to have torque for days, but what about the drivetrain?
I generally prefer a skinnier tire because of the improved fit, better handling from less rolling resistance, and less stress on the drivetrain. 255/85R16 is probably the best 32”-33” and 285/75R18 seems to be the sweet spot, for 35” tires, at least for me.
I believe that's " High Dive" at Moab. I decided NOT to do that trail due to my short 96" wheel base on my TJ. BUT I DID DO PRITCHETT CANYON and had a blast.
Just put 35s on my rubicon, big loss mileage in general. 6th gear is almost useless not enough torque to keep the truck going if there is any grade up.
99% of people putting 37‘s on a jeep are either using it as a mall crawler, daily driver or grocery getter. So 37‘s on a jeep with stock gears will work just fine.
JTs are in a different ballpark. I went with 39s KM3s because they aren't too heavy for the size. Regeared to 5:38s, changed the front driveshaft to JE Reel and installing RPM tie rods and draglinks shortly. A lot more I want to do to beef up driveline and steering, but it will definitely be over time.
Good informative video. I remember when 33's where a big deal on the BF Goodrich AT, now 37's? The Jeeps are underpowered already, I can't imagine what 37's would do to it. I still don't know why FCA doesn't put the 5.7 Hemi in their Wranglers/Gladiators as a base engine, especially for the price of a new Jeep!
So 2k for differentials, 1500 for wheels, 2k for the tires, 5k for suspension, and a weekend of work and you are done. It is stupid easy to reshim a differential so I have no idea why he said "if you know someone who knows how to perfectly reshim a differential". You do not have to upgrade anything else unless you are planning on going bigger than 38's or are an incompetent driver.
C-gussets, truss kits, chromoly shafts, 1310 or larger driveshafts, quality ball joints, quality set of 5.13 gears and that dana 44 will be plenty strong enough for most wheeling situations.
@williamviars4478 not really. As long as you're responsible and don't allow a ton of wheel hop, you'll get by just fine. Chromoly handles hard shock load better than stock shafts.
Great video, been going back and forth on 35" vs 37" on my daily driver 2011 JKUR. The 3.8L turd of an engine already feels underpowered with 33"s. Don't want to empty every pocket for regear, new chromoly axle shafts, truss and c-gussets, big break kit, new ball joints, etc. but mannnn do those 37"s look good.
I'm right there with you...I've been running 35s on my 2008...The anemic 3.8 is a dog. I've re geared to 4:88s (manual tranny) and get about 14 mph...I have an off road teardrop on order and worry about how it will pull it. I want 37s, but, probably will not go larger than 35s.
Hope that trailer is light there's some under 2k-3k and liveable for two. I was looking for a pop up for 4 at 3500lb duel Axel 33' tires for floating. What's the dry weight on the tear drop?
@@tenskeeze Dry weight, complete with a 2 burner stove, water heater, spare tire, and fridge is supposed to be at 1000 lbs. It also has a 16 gallon water tank. I'll believe it when I see it...but, should be under 1500 lbs for sure. It's the TK47 from Overkill campers.
i beleive this is just one guys opinion, not law unless he knows the engineers over at Jeep. ive been running on 37's on dana 30s upfront on 3.73 gears no problems for like 3 years with moderate+ wheeling, listening to this video is like listening to your grandma give you advice on why not to even walk out the door because its dangerous out there. cmon. his other vid on why not to carry a spare tire is a joke. let me summarize in a few words "keep a spare only if you live on earth" lmao
JL Rubicon to run 37's Tire carrier Tail gate reinforcement 3.5 lift with all bells n whistles like track bars, arms, springs, shocks Wheels and tires and possibly wheel spacers Programmer Regear to at least 488 1310 double Carden front driveshaft A steering upgrade to turn aired down 37's Chromoly rear shafts Cv fronts Ask me how I know
Cromoly axles, upgraded steering, bigger brakes, upgraded 1 ton u joints and drive lines can all be done in stages before the 37s go on. Upgrades such as these will give you a greater margin of strength even if ultimately you decide 37s are not for you. The extra strength could mean the difference between driving up to an obstacle and deciding to try it or turning around because you don't want to break something, even on 35s.
Depends on the desert. We spend a week in death valley, did it on 33s and then on 37s.....I'll take an aired down 37 on Mengel Pass over a 33" any day.
More force also comes from all the weight of the tire being at a greater radius from the hub. This means that the added weight is also force multiplied by greater leverage due to a longer radius. Kinda like getting a cheater bar to break a nut loose and putting a fatter guy on the end of it. For the truck its Way more force to rotate and way more force to stop the rotation. There is more to consider than just the motor and the brakes. This also means more leverage on the steering components as well. Sometimes it's worth it and sometimes it's not.
I had to wat h this video like 7 times to focus on what you were saying, those badass viseos of the crawling Jeeps kept distracting me 🤣 Good info, Thanks !!
I have been saying for years....... if ya can't make it with a 35 you probably shouldn't go there.......... it is the optimum size for a jeep or really any off roader.... guys with big tires hog out the trails and ruin it for everyone else
I did have to get Fiberglass fenders Bedsides with bulged shape to fit 35" tires to fit into them to reach the bumps tops my first upgrade was gears & lockers that helped a lot . I got them for my 87 from a part out from a 96 I got fenders core support all the lights & grill & a hood and spindle the brake calipers bolt to . I gusseted & plated my twin traction beams & built my long chromoly heim joint radius arms to beam connections much stronger I also installed an F250 passenger side slip shaft axle with bigger u joints and also chromoly outer axles & new better warn manual hubs. Upgraded the headlights to HID much better nd another set if brighter HID' WITH THE SAME BALLASTS I PUT INTO SOME HELL CANS FOR LONGER POT BEAMS OF LIGHT. tHEN UPGRADED MY BRAKES FRONT & REAR NEW BUILT FRONT & REAR Driveshafts. I cleaned up my transfer case & rebuilt it in my garage with new chain & planetary gears & mounting the oiler tube betterall new ambulance steering parts spindle studs bearings & seals & limit straps a new better radiator and AC Compressor was needed too wen I had to replace my high mileage les power 302 with a new full roller with maf that fires my efi on each cylinder instead of bank fired with the intakes ported and bigger injectors IR INTAKE AND AFR HEADS ll exhaust headers y pipe cats & muffler all new vacuum lines bigger fuel injectors a speedometer gear for a 351w internally balanced winder built into a 408 stroker . built for lots of torque for my long wheel suspension travel on nice King shocks I ordered from Bret after weighing aerate front & rear my monster trans rebuilt by art car the drag racers transmission shop to handle all the power i cycled it all clearing any tight spots my full size 4x4 Bronco
Thanks Josh! I was contemplating 37’s on my (new to me) 12’ JKUR. I knew deep down the 35’s were the best option for not only my wallet but my skill level (this is my first Jeep), but those big tires look so dang good. Your video helped me from going down that rabbit hole and keep a second mortgage off the books. 😅
built 4 37's rolling on 35s . Did axel swap carbon built rock jock 44 Detroit locker front. d44 rear torson lsd carbon cromoly shafts 4.88 gears. ran stock tires for a year after was to poor 4 tires. 2" spacer lift.
I had a 2015 JLU on 35’s. I had a car pull out in front of me and I had to hit the breaks as hard as I could and barely slowed down. In my pinion bigger breaks is a must. They did fine most of the time but in an emergency breaking situation it was just dangerous.
You are 100% right. The only thing I would add is to plan your build out before you do anything and complete it in stages. Try to keep the parts you’ll end up buying twice to a minimum. I knew 37’s was what I bought my Jeep with a dream of 3 years ago. Has it completely planned out before I bought a Jeep. After I bought it and got the bug I considered going cheap and building to 35’s sir a stop gap but I pushed on and started buying parts for the end goal. Made some drivability sacrifices. This whole summer was 3.21 gears, Dana 30, and 37’s. Not ideal and no Moab trip this year but the Dynatrac’s are ordered and it’ll be that much sweeter next year. Only aftermarket part I’ll be selling is the 1310 adams front driveshaft. I feel like I might have been able to scrape by with the stock shaft or no front shaft and bought nothing twice. Slow down. Build it once and build it right.
Great video, but i think you forgot to mention steering upgrades lol just saying. May not be required if you have a 2018+ rubicon and youre just running 37" ATs but if youre running heavier Mts or are going bigger, a steering upgrade is highly recommended... if you dont want to break. Keep it up guys good job
Great video! I stuck with 35’s on my Sport JL, and still regeared to 4.56, swapped out to Mopar Off Road wheels with offset to wider tires, and a Mopar 2” (more like 4”) lift kit. Any bigger tires than that, I’ll break or twist the front axles anyway… and swapping to a Dana 44 Ultimate is more than I’m willing to shell out $$ for.
Look for factory Rubicon axles from someone upgrading to one-tons, they are on Facebook Marketplace and 4x4 FB group "for sale" pages all of the time. The Rubicon M210 front, M220 rear run 37s just fine. I have a '21 JT-R on 37s and wheel the shit out of it, no issues, and diesel powered.
@@upnorth4x4 I know right, lol! Seriously, I motocrossed, did enduros, mud bogged lifted trucks in my 20's, got that shit out of my system. Now that I'm older, the 4 hours worth of fun ain't worth the 4 days of cleaning and repairing. It was between buying another Harley or a JEEP. So I bought a Jeep, I can cruise with doors off kinda like on bike, but you can haul people, and I can customize the look like a bike. I just like a good looking ride, call me mall cruiser, thats ok, im too old to offend, lol! Kinda like the Z06 Vetter guy who never gets over 75 mph, lol! I will draw the line at a beefed up front bumper with a winch though, that looks dumb on a Jeep that never leaves the pavement, lol!
@@65dalexander I get that man. I'm 40 and the only difference between now and 20 years ago is ...... well I guess Not much has changed other than a corporate job and more jeeps to break. 😆🤣 do you man. If you ever wanna take it out it's definitely capable.
@@hotjesssica954 nothing Mopar lift and 37s stock 4.10s with 2.0 turbo In fairness it’s a pavement princess / it’s our family weekend car I have to say it handles so much better than my jkur on 35s with the 3.6 motor.
I weighed in on lift and bigger tires, but after I did a few engine mods, 20mpg in town, 23.7mpg average hwy. I have decided to keep mine mostly stock with just minor upgrades in brakes and shocks. Now I have done moderate overlanding and managed to still get 16mpg average in 4wd, so for me larger tires at this time not a real necessity.
@@mdtwyne hey, believe it or not was the addition of a cold air intake, and the throttle body vortex insert, Sunluway Store Throttle Body Spacer Fits for 2012-2020 Jeep Wrangler JK JL JT Gladiator 3.6L Engine, and this cold air intake, K&N Cold Air Intake Kit: High Performance, Guaranteed to Increase Horsepower: Fits 2012-2018 Jeep (Wrangler, Wrangler JK) 3.6L V6, 77-1566KP
Bigger tires are in my future thats for sure, but i am glad you mentioned the other ways of adding bigger tires without a lift. Yes a lift helps but is not always necessary when you have things like high clearance fenders, larger negative offset wheels, high clearance bumpers. This is obviously completely separate from the stuff you need without a doubt and that's gears to properly drive at speeds needed. Great Video Josh!!
The tire thing gets crazy. Some go for performance reasons but I think far more go for the looks. Now from personal experience I have seen 33s and 35s do just fine everywhere guys are rolling around on 37s. In fact the guys who know how to drive on 33s do much better then the bigger tire guys. In the group I roll with there are a few old schoolers who would not be caught dead with anything bigger then 33s. You know what. They tend to be the better off roaders of the group. I personally like 35s and have been on them for years with my truck but even getting them to fit correctly can be a costly. I literally just spent 22k upgrading my suspension, axles, and all the little things underneath to make it work on my jeep. But I did it right. All to correctly fit and utilize 35s. Anything larger has its place, but the gain in rollover is so small when going up to 37s its not really worth it. Even going 40s seems to be overkill for most situations. Some guys here are rolling around on big ass 40s on their jeeps. Just about every one of them did little to improve the strength to support them. Most of them actually say they did it because it looks cool.
I started rock crawling on my stock 33s, upgraded to 35s and now 37s (because I got a free set). I 100% believe that crawling on my 33s made me a better and smarter driver. But I’ll be upgrading a handful of key components to accommodate for my 37s.
I'm going to be putting 37s on my 4Runner with a 3 inch lift for the simple fact that I'm crippled and short I have Cerebral Palsy and I'm 5'5 and living in Maine we get pounded with snow so being able to see over snowbanks and not getting stuck are a absolute plus
2021 JTR - 37”x20s was fairly easy they actually will clear without a lift. I did go ahead an lifted it anyway with a JKS 3-3.5 J-Venture & Fox 2.0 performance shocks designed more for ride vs off-roading. Decent lift won’t break the bank. I also geared from 4.10s to 5.13s which restored the power back to the wheels & allows it to shift properly along with reprogramming. I’m actually getting slightly better MPG with the 37s than I did with the stock 33s, gearing made the difference. Nitto released 38” which won’t require new Axels etc. if you can run 37’s the 38s should work. Where you get into the money are with 40s when you have to replace Axels and most everything else underneath.
I think it was overly slanted in the negative towards 37s. I have a '21 JT-R (Gladiator) on 37s and beadlocks, and wouldn't run it any other way. It is a diesel so we haven't "needed" to re-gear, but we will this fall when we swap to 40s along with trussing the front axle. We wheel hard trails in NorCal including the Rubicon Trail (its in our backyard so to speak, about 40mins away), but there are a lot of trails in this area that are considered "moderate" by the locals, that would be mind blowing for non-Locals. The Sierra Nevadas change your view on what is hard, and what isn't. There are very few Jeeps out here that aren't on 37s or bigger.
@@iamblaineful Wow, look forward to heading west some time and checking those trails out. For now, I’ve ordered 35’s so I can put my effort towards the build and learn to wheel a wrangler. We’ve gone with the 392 so I’m not worried about regearing when we go to 37’s. Just need to learn more about what upgrades to suspension etc would be needed. Thank you.
Brilliant! Makes so much sense. Plus no one talks about vehicle speed sensors. That is going to be thrown way off. The automatic transmission shift points will be noticeable.
I wanted taller gears for my Cummins Ram so I just put some 37 inch tires on instead. Easy on bigger vehicles with tons of torque. 37" tires on a Jeep without other mods are fine if you just want to be a mall crawler but all the mentioned upgrades are likely needed if you don't want to break on the trail.
I am thinking of just putting 37'a on my 2021 Rubicon unlimited. I have the factory extended warranty so I will keep my stock 33's and if I break something I will put the 33's back on before I take it to the dealer for warranty work. How does that sound?
great video i went to 37 on my 07 JK in doing so had to re gear then later upgrade steering and brakes so it ended up being very expensive also ball joints and axel shafts so think it through .
I've upgraded to 5.13 gearing on my Gladiator Rubicon with plans to truss and use 38 inch tires that have an overall dimension of 37ish. Buzz words are all the rage, but it's true one must upgrade steering components and get at least 4.5 inch Teraflex lift. Most just have 3.5 inch lifts. Potatoes Patatoes. Just empty every pocket is so true. Engage. Enjoy. Lol.
Yes just running 35 inch tires I gusset & plated m beams glass fenders & bedsides a built driveshafy gears & lockers bettter hubs & a 408 with it wl built it can mqke it perform better somesuspension is key too.
Lifted my 2018 JLUR 2 1/2 inches and running 37’s. Dont wheel it hard and realize wear on parts is gonna be greater. I need to regear as my power is down a little and MPG is down a lot.
I have a 2013 with flat fenders and on 37 with spacers on stocksuspension ony jk 4 door and clear everything does very well offroad I have a 3" lift and haven't put it on love the stock ride to
There will always be a weak point when you go to larger tires, doesn't mean it isn't worth doing. I run 37s on beadlocks on a '21 Jeep JT-R Diesel and it's definitely worth it.
@@iamblaineful I was just pointing out a weak point that wasn't mentioned in the video and it's worth considering. My tj has been re-geared with 4.56 but didn't want to go lower for that very reason.
@@iamblaineful I’m in the process of purchasing a jt diesel rubicon I heard that it handles the weight of the tires rather well. Did you need to regear or anything else besides a good lift kit
I have a '21 JT Rubicon, contemplating 37s, probably after I try 35s. I'm hoping for not only better clearance but I hope it helps with the breakover, even if a little. One of my concerns though, is that for most of these upgrades, the videos I've watched, going over lifts, larger tires, ring and pinion, etc, usually only refer to what it's like with an Automatic Transmission, I really haven't heard of what would happen with the Manual transmission that is on my JT. In my opinion anything over 4th gear is basically useless, unless I'm on super flat terrain, 5th and 6th gears are just too tall, and the clutch too vague, I still love manuals, but I'm concerned on how much it would kill what little power my JT does have. I don't plan on doing MAJOR rock crawling, probably just overlanding stuff, outside of daily driving.
not sure its helpful but we put 2.5” AEV lift with dual sport suspension with 35” yokohama mt tires and it has exceeded our expectations, we do a lot of heavy overlanding to back country in AZ and UT, this setup has completely performed, looks awesome, and will not break the bank; we added AEV wheels to the package that are designed for the JT specifically, amazing package
I have 37 inch tires on a Mopar lift with stock rubicon axles on my JLUR. I have done plenty of rock crawling, John Bull, Holocomb etc. i am just easy on the gas pedal and slowly crawl over things. I did upgrade all the steering components and track bars but I have been good so far, but I am prepared for the worst and have all my recovery gear and winch and don’t go alone. I think 37” is the max you should do. If not rubicon axles I would say 35”.
I’d never get anything bigger than a 35” on my Rubicon Gladiator. It’s a strain on the hubs, the engine and the entire drivetrain with anything bigger. Plus MPGs go down drastically. I avg 21+ in mixed driving with my original 33”s. Getting 15 mpg is not something to look forward to.
Yeah, we definitely have noticed that with some of these videos that do incorporate pricing in them that in time they might not be the most accurate with companies raising the price of their products. Sounds like we should make an updated video!
If one does rock climbing you probably need it, for overlanding and world traveling 35 and 37 are nonsense. Our JKUR is configured as a "world traveller" it is our home for multiples 6 month travels (Panamericana...) It is setup with an ursa minor popup roof and and a DIY interior setup. I learned very quickly that 35" and bigger tires look cool but are complete nonsense for long distances, so I stick with good old 33" KO2 tires. Less problems = more fun! I guess it is more wise to put the money into a rubicon edition with stock tire size instead of a sport edition and beef it up. And by the way: the rubicon trail is doable with moderare lift and 33" without breaking the car.
I got 33’s on my 4runner. They are the perfect middle ground if it’s your daily driver which my 4runner. Still big enough to be capable and do most trails out there and yet doesn’t effect mpg or ride quality or acceleration nearly as bad as bigger sizes. I prolly won’t go bigger than 33’s.
@@andyham6094 You took the words right out of my mouth. Lol. My 3.6L Rubicon with the 8-speed auto is getting 22MPG. I like it because it’s my daily as well!
Hi from Puerto Rico, I have a 2011 LexusGX460, put a long travel 3 inch suspensión, UCA from SPC and 35x12.5R18 Toyo Open Country MT, My Rig run Great , lose done miles per gallon but not much, i love how it looks
To put my Jeep jku on 37s I had swap my fenders and install 1 ton steering components and had to do a big brake kit and 4 1/2 inch long arm lift that I stretched the wheel base in the rear about 2 inches so I didn't have to cut the body.... 4.88 gears RCV axles shafts and aftermarket custom drive shafts... My weakest link arm is my steering box it's a bitch to turn offroad... Will be going hydro assist in the future
For 37's on a JTR. Need: Drive shafts front and rear. Chromoly axle shafts. RCV Joints, and that re gearing you mentioned..oh yeah..and lift if you don't want to rub.
O have a Cj5 with 35 inch tires... O changed everything, to fit those tires... Body lift, axle shafts, brakes, leaf springs, engine, transmission, the only thing was left, was the 5,38 gears ... From factory... I know he can handle 37 tires, but with those prices, better stay with 35 inch tires...
When I'm ready I want to upgrade my 2022 Tundra to handle 35's I think that is a good fit for someone that will use the truck for work mostly. I'm told Toyota will come out with a 2 1/2" lift soon. Might be worth to let the dealer upgrade and see if I can maintain my warranty LOL!
The dealer is putting the 2" (really 3.5) lift on my 2021 Wrangler rubicon in a few days and that lift says it's for 35s to 37s. I have an extended warranty so I just ordered 37s and new wheels. Gonna use it that way with maybe a new front drive shaft and if it breaks it will be under warranty.
I have a 21’ diesel gladiator I have conquered ridiculous trails with on 33’s with no lift..Specifically trail 44 at Windrock. However with a 3.5” lift and 37” tires… it is nothing but a machine. I highly recommend the gladiator and highly recommend the diesel and def recommend the lift. But these trucks are goats in the diesel edition.
You know. There's a whole untapped market of jeepers wanting giant tires off the factory floor. Jeep is sleeping on a great idea of factory reliable and capable 37" and 40" super Rubicons. The mod market would be more on the looks and safety side as a result. Roll cages and lights. Jeep, you can do it. I'll buy one tomorrow if they make that a reality. A lot of folks just want to hit the trails and not try to learn rocket science just to properly mod their jeep for trails with peace of mind. But in a way I'm glad jeep is sleeping on this idea. The good trails would get too crowded as a result of everyone could do it...the 35" wheels Rubicon is already very popular.
So with our new JK 392 XR i am going to go to 37's. i feel the 392 will handle it fine. 456 gears will be fine. its a bit more HD then a regular Rubicon. but i will be adding a 3.5 inch Evo kit and King shocks and new stabilizer. i never beat my Jeep so i feel all will work good.
Funny my stock JT Mojave 33” Falkens were 63lbs. My K02 37” C Rated is 67lbs. Not a huge hit overall but still going to 4.88’s to get some pep and mpg back
