I feel like Scotty may have a time machine. He would make a great Doc Brown from Back to the Future modern day remake. Doc Green? Green Crack to the Future
I raise my light height while having the light on full. When I flip. This allows the stretch to pull itself into its needed light intensity. Less work and does really well for me
These videos are great for beginners. I'm only in grow 4 but I haven't learned anything new in at least 6 months and I watch stuff regularly. The first two grows I probably watched 100 hours of videos.
Same here I'm on my 4th indoor grow with autoflowers and haven't seen anything useful in a month or so and my only 2 problem I'm having is water and feeding
higher DLI in veg is something i figured out about 5 years ago, it allows you to hit higher ppfd/dli in flower as well. if you have too low of DLI in veg, and then try to go higher DLI in flower, your plant will have delayed flowering, stretch past 3 weeks, and will take longer to finish, great vid.
My take on this: As the graph [6:00] shows, we are supposed to ramp up DLI during flower. The CEO of "Sanlight" also said that you want some headroom on your lights when going into flower so that you can increase ppfd after the stretch to somewhat end the stretching. Most growers i see begin flowering with 100% on their lights. This leaves you with no headroom to further increase DLI. Scince we can't increase the hours of light per day during flower, we have to do it through light intensity. That means you should being flowering at about 80% light intensity so that you can ramp it up further after the first stretch (about 2-3 weeks into flower). I hope this helps somebody! Happy Plants, Happy Mans!
Yes. My LED came with instructions that said 60-80% during veg and 80-100% during flower. The recommended distance from canopy did not change for all light intensity levels. Just finished my second grow doing it that way, and it works very well
I've been playing with the light schedule for years. It does work and also increases your total overall yeald by decreasing an hour per week until you reach 12/12 and increasing the light intensity.
It's just obvious...we just need to mimic nature as much as possible...using a raspberry pi makes it so easy but it could be achieved by hand! Plants usually switch to flowering mid August in the middle of summer
@@ScottyReal420 you're welcome, a person can learn a thing or two in 47 years of growing. I challenge myself at times to learn new and different concepts when growing cannabis. Taken a step farther, you can decrease a long flowering sativa's flowering time by changing your light schedule down from 12/12 down to 10.5 on /13.5 off. This usually will make 12+ week flowering sativa down to around 10 weeks.
@@Real_Dankdude I bought DJ Short's book 17yrs ago and in his book he said 12/12 is not the best schedule. He did not say more or less, he just said play around with it to find what works best for your genetics. I was doing both indoor and outdoor at that time and I noticed that my outdoor would be in full flower at 13+hrs light. Late August when the plants begin to flower they are getting 14hrs of sunlight. Harvest time around here is only 1-2 weeks after we hit 12hrs sunlight. At that time I began paying with my timer like you mentioned you did. I ran clones at 20hrs under T5 HO's and when I moved them into my 5x5 tent w/1000w Hortilux HPS I ran a very short veg cycle at only 7-10days at 16hrs before dropping to 13hrs. Most of my flowering cycle would be at 12.5hrs until the last 10 days or so when I began dropping it 15min a day. My yields went up with the extra 30min of light vs 12/12, but I recently saw a DJ Short interview and he said he preferred the shorter 10.5-11hr daylength that you mentioned for his long flowering equatorial sativas.
@@Real_Dankdudethank you for sharing this I’ve always been to worried about growing sativa because of the long flowing but this would help me greatly I love people like you who don’t bash other for being new or experienced just willing to spread good information and help others out but once again thank for this I shall give this a go 😊
I like this guy, he's interacted with me directly on my first comment on another vid about Coco. But surely he was around when we were all using HID lights and didn't have the luxury of simply dialling things down with a potentiometer.
As always great info. I am a new grower and I’m just getting to point where one pot per grow is a mini experiment new soil mixtures different top dressing or tea mixtures. This is all new to me but I will try it, next run is 36 hours of darkness before flipping to flower
I’m actually trying that method and I love it so far it’s allowing the plants to grow through the net and feel as if it’s outside… I try to keep it as close too Mother Nature as I can
Scotty is da' man! I accidentally landed on today's vid and was THRILLED at his explanation and clear explanations of how we manipulate indoor light conditions, taking cues from nature, but exploiting what plants' potential truly can be! Just like he's said before, if you can't explain what seem to be complicated topics and explain it simply to a friend, then you probably don't know enough about it yet. I have used gradual light increases/decreases in both stages, and I notice now that my flowers thicken up fuller (flowers connect more between nodes) and heavier -- now to the point they need support strings (I LST and super-crop so I don't have to limit my plant care due to scrog mobility issues) to hold up some of the more dominant branches! Total increase in yields! Guillermo in now legal to grow (6) in Ohio. PS: New topic idea: I plan to put some of my seeds (sprouting NOW) outside in a 50' hoop-house this growing season. I also use drip irrigation out there. What are some of the advantages and disadvantages you fine aficionados see in this idea? I've never seen anyone out here in YT land address this, and I know you have some wisdom to impart on this. Many thanks to your fine work. Great job, HiC for nice leads and post-comment "digestion" reactions to Scotty's awesome explanations! Thinking of using "super-charged" soil, maybe some grow dots with my drip irrigation, lots of worm casting brews, who knows?
I would be worried about humidity problems in a hoop house…maybe you’re in a dry climate…🤷🏽♂️…then I see great advantages👍🏽 But air flow and PM would still need to be dealt with…Good Luck Growmie☘️
Also can be done by raising your lights if you can dim or combination of both. Id start at 28inches from canopy, dropping down to 16inches. Back in the day before fancy meters 😂 top tip for veg every day grab your plants main stem half up the plant and give it a good shake like it just hit your woman, stimulates strong branch growth.
First off Scotty great channel man the DGC rocks it all the time I'm watching the shows driving you nuts anyway I've been growing since the '90s man I'm a legacy grower I've been busted two times I'm telling you everybody needs to listen to what Scotty's saying I got that DLI chart and I use it and I'm telling you man I was rocking 2- 400 HPSs like 3 ft off my plans and my DLI was like 13... I was still growing fat buds but I'm telling you man like I've doubled my DLI now so I can't wait to see how much bigger my buds are My plans are always in great shape I've got my environment on lock and I know my nutrition Thanks keep it up man
This will be the first time I increase the light intensity when switching to bloom. I usually leave the same light, but I am going to try increasing this grow. I will expect bigger buds!
so for someone whos never grow a plant and am new to this, is he saying that once you go from 18/6 hrs lights on to 12/12hrs you need to still give the plants the same intensity as you was in 18/6, and to do this you need to turn the settings up week by week on the light.
Hi Scotty, really good content, can't stop looping your vids haha. This DLI think got me thinking, what about having a veg of less hours (let's say 14) to spend less in electricity bill compensating DLI with light intensity and distance?
I can’t believe I already knew this. I would actually lower my Gavita LED from 100% and veg down to about 90% in flour because I ran to Gavita Lights LEDs and only one light and veg So in flour for the two lights, I would cut the power back because my breakers kept on blowing so then I started to realize that if I ran my lights at 90% and every couple weeks, I brought them down to like 85% then 80% for the last week or two I would bring it down to 75 or 77% for the last two weeks and then I noticed I started getting picture buds. I realized that they didn’t need that much light and it took me a few runs to do it like this so I wouldn’t blow my breakers, but that’s how I found out , and it’s really nice to hear somebody else saying the same thing to be honest
Great video… just flipped to flower 2 weeks ago. I have always maintained the same light from Veg to flower and slowly increase, but I have never went 100%. I did download an app called Photone, but quickly found out I need to purchase a diffuser to move forward.
I run a growers choice ROI-e680 (led). It has a nice capacity to ramp up the light intensity. I’ve been messing with it myself over the years but this info is definitely helpful. I run like five different strains so I noticed that some strains also react differently to this whole thing. Some can handle it and some can’t I guess. Peace my brother! ☮️🙏🏼
Always spitting some good knowledge Scotty, love the shows. Can’t make changes in my perpetual 8’x12’ room. Harvesting all at once is too much trim jail time for me. It’s easier to keep everything the same all the time. That’s why I like grow dots, keeps it simple.
Wow recharge works great. Thanks Scotty. Looking forward to the grow dot. It has been getting harder to do all I was doing. Cancer sucks ass. Anyway, this will make my job easier and I never have to worry about burning my plants or keeping a long lengthy schedule for feeding. Seeds take forever it seems. As always patience is what I need to do. I think that has a lot to do with growing great cannabis. And patience is not easy when you’re curing it and it smells so good you just wanna dip into it. But I’m a good boy. I’m gonna wait maybe! Lol.
Im using the lumatek zeus pro 600w 2.7 The sister company is photontek pro 600w for US and canada. I grow in a 5x5 tent and find that these lights are way too powerful ! Ive run a few grows now but still have an issue after the stretch period of flower is over. I keep my lights at 25% power ( 150w ) from seedling to early veg. I start lights at 60cm above canopy and allow the plants to grow into the light until about 40cm. I then increase intensity of light to 50% power ( 300w ) from early veg right through to week 3 of flower. I start hanging the lights at 60cm at roughly 60cm and allow plants to stretch into light where plants end up about 40cm from lights. Its then at week 3 of flower, i increase the light intensity to 75% power ( 450w ) hang the lights starting from 70cm away from top of canopy and within a week, i see stress on the plants… red streaks on stems, slight yellow / pale of top leaves. This is also keeping the lights atleast 70cm / 28 inches above canopy ! Im still struggling to find the best method with these lights !
Literally needed this video right now. I just got a 500W upgrade from 400W in my 4x4 and I want to maximize my upgrade. I’m sitting at ~30 DLI in my canopy on Week 3 and am aiming for at least 40 by Week 7. Only downside is this actually helped me understand my slow veg better. I was always content with 300-450 PPFD throughout veg but realized you need to get it up to 600-700 by the end to get them really humming. It makes a lot of sense, gonna try that on my next run!
I only do 1 grow a year. Start indoors in march /april then move outside as weather permits. And just before flower starts they move indoors go on 18 hours for a week then go down in hours and up in power over the next week😊
I stand by 24 or 48 hours of darkness before the 12/12 cycle. Ive always done it and side by side tests in my dual flower rooms have proven to me in my tests faster flower set in the rooms that were deprived of light for 48 hours then flipped to 12/12. I do dial the lights down until bud set but definitely have whitnessed faster flower set using this method.
Back in the day we grew with 1000W MH and 250W HPS lights all on light rails. The veg to flower transition was every two days drop an hour every four days add another HPS. 18 hours to 12 hours took 12 days and light intensity rose from 3000W MH to 3000W MH + 1000W HPS in 16 days. It made for a smooth transition with no heat bleaching from increased light or hermies from a quick photo period flip. These days I imagine you can do the same thing with LEDs probably automatically through an app on your phone.
I just moved to led so you definitely saved me allot of problems going forward!!!! I’ve been growing with hps for 20 years so this is a huge change for me plus now I’ll be using grow dots and can’t wait to get rid of all these damn expensive nutrient bottles!!!! Next grow is with Humboldt seeds, Vipar XS4000 and Grow Dots this should be interesting!!! 😂😂😂
My thoughts, I need to measure DLI. Also, thinking about MR-Puff's light tip and 36 hours total darkness end of veg. before switching to flower- causing increased flower hormone production? I always come across lots of good and interesting ideas from comments. Love Scotty's videos, they always generate great grow knowledge and also ideas from viewers.
GREAT info in this show Scotty & Hi-C very well done got a better understanding in light intensity trying to figure out this new light I. Got for Christmas what leaves look like if your light is to much that it can take
I use two lights a dimable hps with three settings. A 400 watt cob on the other side of my 5x5 tent. I only go to 2 3rd power on the hps in veg three weeks before flip i put the cob up which always runs full power. I still have the other third setting left to use once i flip. Then once or twice a week for two weeks i turn the hps to full power for 4 hrs at a time. After that i go full blast . Always does well for me.
I've burned my fav strain at 1200 ppfd. Once the stretch is over, I dial down to 1000, then back to 800 last weeks. Keeps temps cool and terps up.I grow SCROG and the light is pretty close.
I have been using this light hack for years now. Before I ever heard of DLI. I start dropping an hour a day till I reach 11/13. I always thought of it as mimicking nature (to a degree). I don't change my light strength till about the second week, and then slowly ramp up the par.
@DigitalMoneyIsSlavery it seems to induce flower a little stronger. Since our favorite plant flowers depending on nights hours, it seems to affirm the change of season. I heard about it years ago from an interview with Kevin Jodry. He was saying that is what the tulip farmers in Norway use it to set stronger flowering. Something like that. In my own garden, I can tell a slight increase in bud set. My current garden is finishing day 14 of flower today, and they already have strong bud set and pistel growth like you would expect to see around wk3. Again this is my garden regardless of genetics though.
@@stonersgarden thnx for reply. Someone in this comment section does 13.5 on and says they get an extra day flowering a week, just shows everyones got their own style.
you can feed it as much light as you want but once the root ball is small it will not get any bigger. the key for me is focus on the foundation not the building be nice to the root and it will give lots of fruits
At the beginning of the video i was thinking about what puffandstuff does. It only makes sense. In nature, the light doesn't decrease in one day. It takes several weeks. I think I'm going to try this. Also, i wonder if that method has any effect on stretch?
That's fine when you're running a single strain and taking all to harvest simultaneously. I have a half dozen stains going at any one time so I keep the lights as high as possible.
Scotty, Equatorial Cultivars above 8000ft Altitude have adapted to Higher DLI and also Metamorph from Sativa Traits to Indica Traits according to the Strain Hunters! "Mango Iche" is what I remember them saying! Maybe that's why Afghani/Pakistani Cultivars are mostly Indica in Nature! 😉🤫😎👽
Hi Scott, I do check off some box’s you are talking about. Without going into crazy detail, the light is too much for a tiny tent like mine. It came from a bigger tent but it turned out to be junky. I will go back to my old light next time. If you want something to ponder or expound upon try how a plant needs such drastic swings to grow successfully when in real time we don’t have 18 hrs of light and 6 hours of dark. Still it works out by energy manipulation. ?
Hey Scotty and partner ;), you missed the most important fact in your DLI discussion. The plants are growing all the time!!! During the VEG stage and are stretching during flowering stage!!! This fact reduces the whole DLI curve to one question, do i have enough light or do i have to less light?!? Because the plants are growing all the time to the light, which reduces the distance to the light armature and increasing PPFD and the DLI again. In short words, if your PPFDs are in the right range, you dont have to think about the DLI. Best regards from germany :)
Auto Flower growers should bare in mind, that if you run 18 hrs, Then a PPFD 0f 700 is the equivalent of around 1000on a 12 hr cycle. So save some energy and run your auto's at around 700. as they don't need any more than that, unless running CO2 in which case you can raise the DLi by 10 - 55 at the peak of your grow cycle. PPFD APP is free and is quite accurate with most phones. But becomes very accurate even on a cheap phone, is you add the BT383 Bluetooth lux meter for 20 bucks. Which will work well on a selfy stick while you look at the PPFD and DLI reading on your phone screen.
Yes and no. Autos photo period doesn't matter it will flower when its mature enough regardless of hours of light. But what he's says about light intensity during stages of growth still applicable to autos
I believe the same goes for nutrients, and it does make absolute sense. You want to ramp them up from low to max feed in veg(for arguments sake lets say 1400ppm), and then when you flip the plants require much less nutrients (and light) so I lower my nutrients to around 1000ppm for the first 2-3 weeks of flower(and I remain on veg nutes for this period as well). This is why the transition from veg to bloom is a great time to flush out any salt buildup.
I have two nobs on my light. Veg and bud. In the past I have used both simultaneously and there was some weird growth going on. How would you handle this? Also my leaf tips are burnt from light I assume. What is the proper distance light to plant. Thanks for inviting me over to the think tank Scott, I am a new member. I got grow dots and recharge and I intend to grow the next one with them. Hope to make you guys proud!
the height from the plants and which settings to run the light at should all be included in the lights instruction manual. it is a bit different for each light.
I am very interested in this video. Everyone would like to get the max out of their grow and anything me learn more, I feel is a plus. I was just wondering where did you get the information and the DLI chart?
@ScottyReal420 thank you for that information. It was useful. This site is actually run by Photone. It's a light meter app. I've been using it for about 5 months now. I highly recommend it. It's not 100% correct, but it will get you very close and doesn't cost $800 like a photon meter. My plants have been growing well and are happier than a pig in poop.
The problem with DLI it doesn't incorporate how many leaves you have to absorb the light, plants outdoors in full sunlight takes all of it a grows much bigger and faster and stronger.
Mid dayn summer is about 2400 PPFD, But that isn't all day, so a nice summer late afternoon/early evening that is still hot, will be less at around 600 ppfd dropping to 400 by mid summer evening. So the DLI averages out. This figure drops dramatically outside of summer.
@@doubleooh7337in what season? and you assume all days are blue sky. So NO....a high powered indoor grow. will produce more DLi, than 80% of natural day light days throughout a year. . Theres a rason most outside growers only get one harvest per year. You just don't get the same DLI in November as you do against an 18hr at 1000ppfd indoors.
I think Scotty was using the numbers from his CO2 augmented grow. I don't think I would hit those numbers without CO2. I do find that decreasing hours and increasing intensity in veg, quite interesting!
How low can you safely go wrt hours in late veg before inadvertently triggering flowering? Guess it is somewhat strain dependent, but something like 14-15 hrs?
sunlight is 60 dli on a sunny day average it out over june and july its about 50 dli but what i dont get is if the dli is dropping and the ppfd drops why do we still get such nice plants outside with low dli and ppfd cause in what august to september you dropped from 60 to 40 in september your now 30 so if someone could explain why we keep upping the light inside but mother nature does the opposite
so i have a lamp that can only do a DLI of 18 and i want to do 3 plants. Is it enough? And how do i manage the change in intensity when going from veg into flower phase? It only has 275umol/s/m².
It's like the human body you put it on steroids you get big and strong but you ain't natural same thing with the plants when you grow indoor its like a human on steroids thats why I love this stuff I use to be juiced to the gills now I use that same knowledge and apply it to my plants now there juiced to the gills!!! And ur killing it scottie good work man
I have lux on 22,000 on veg. On the day I flick to flower 🌺 I up the Lux 28,000 to 30,000. I relised anything below 10,000 I get a stretch leggy seedlings 🌱. Veg 12,000 to 22,000 max. Flower 28,000 to 36,000. Week 6 onwards into flower say day 42 to 45. I always up the light 💡 it takes it.
would that be basically the same as the info from the local weather, showing the sunrise and sunset will give you a daily rate and you could just make the increments fit your need based on that? i am talking about length of time for night and day
I run 2 5x5 630watt leds I veg to 75 %and when I get a week off flower i add a 1000watt at 50%then go to 100%on the leds as I go to 12 12 then I go up with the 1000 watt superHPS every 2weeks
Another thing about saying "you can run higher DLI if you have co2" is a little misleading. Everyone has co2, and just "adding" co2 can mean different things. What you really should say is when raising your DLI you should Increase Air Exchange, by increasing your exhaust fan speed to bring more fresh co2 rich air into your tent. Because there arent many scenarios that wouldn't benefit from more fresh air (not just supplimented co2). Getting that air exchange CFM up has so many benefits, and its something that is a lot easier to achieve than buying a co2 system, which is rarely necessary.
Yo Scotty, off-topic question here, but for seedlings after how many weeks is it good to start giving them veg nutrients? They're 2 weeks in, and I've only given them rapid start and flora bloom.
The sunlight in a greenhouse can burn the buds when the plant is too much defoliated but I will slowly remove my solar lights from over my plants when going into flowering also I find the plants adapt more to the heatwaves that there can be when I have them flowering in my greenhouses under the tropical sun.
My solution for this is to keep the veg lights closer to compensate. The difference in distance results in less light when the plant first goes into flower then the light continually increases as it stretches upwards throughout flower. Total low effort solution FTW!
