I just use blended dried leaves and ground soil (1:1 ratio) with some bone meal as my seed starting mix. Never really understood the appeal of seed starting mixes to be honest. I tell my seeds from day 1, i'm not the best gardener so this is survival of the fittest.
I noticed quite a boost in health for my plant babies when I started testing out bottom watering certain trays with a compost tea made from worm castings. The chosen trays of starts did so well I adopted it as my common practice for all of my starts a few years ago. I think so many times we can be afraid to try something different from what we were taught or what we've heard is the proper way. Growing up my grandparent's garden was all till, miracle gro, space plants so cultivator can fit between, and so on. Now I plant everything pretty close and still have loads of successes among the few failures. I'm going to attempt grafting tomato plants this year! Saying it here because literally 80% people in my life get that glazed over look when I start talking plants. 😂
if it makes you feel any better I'm interested and enjoyed hearing your story but I had glazed over eyes too because im sleepy. Maybe some people you talk to are just sleepy.
We've been learning a lot about gardening from the Epic Gardening team! I am a teacher who has started the journey of getting clean food to our small community and my students love your channel! Thanks for helping make the tricks of the trade accessible to everyone! Ps: My students love the Kevin and Jacque Duo and call them the "Sprouts twins"
My mom taught me to use potting mix on the bottom of seed trays then seed starting mix over the seeds. It allows for more economic seed starting on starting a lot of plants.
Thats a really good tip and makes so much sense because the seed will start off in the starting mix which is normally a "cooler" soil and then once the roots keep going the potting mix would immediately be available which the plant will love because it searching for water it is searching for nutes too. God bless your mom
Understood, but honestly just mix peat moss and fine horticultural vermiculite in a 3:1 ratio, removing the large fragments _by hand,_ and your seedlings will do just fine.
I have been planting so many seeds during the weeks of rain in San Diego. I miss being out in the garden so I may have gone a little overboard ! I really like the epic six cell and 4 cell packs as well as the strong trays. I don't have to worry anymore about carrying a tray of seedlings and having the tray buckle and the seedlings end up all over the ground. Thanks for making such a nice durable product!
Even though I've been gardening for over 30 years. I've certainly learned a lot from my mistakes but for some reason I always start fretting this time of year. Thank you for the great advice.
I also ran into problems using sterilized mix, whether store bought or sterilized myself using the oven. There's a lot of mold in the grow shelf environment since this is an older house, so it would always colonize the sterile soil and damage my seedlings. I decided to switch to homemade leaf mold and compost, to force the mold to compete with the native fungi and microbes, and I haven't had the same problem since. Sterilized mix is expensive, and when I tried to make it myself, it's a waste of electricity. It also smelled quite bad, since I accidentally overcooked it.
Great tip about sieving potting mix. When I used pure seed starting mix I found it really hard to get the right fertilization after the seeds sprouted. I now use a mix of Espoma potting mix and Jiffy seed starting mix and I just pick the big pieces of wood out of the way -- sieving will be more efficient. I am sure that Promix or other good potting soil would work just as well -- Espoma was just what I happened to have. I have used Promix for my winter sowing with good results, and those seedlings get no supplemental anything. Also, don't despair if your tomato seedlings look terrible, they are remarkably tough plants like most vines. Mine turned purple and spindly last year due to lack of proper nutrients but once they were in the ground they took off and produced well.
Epsoma products are the very best! Never disappointed when I use them. Of course, Jiffy is another established, well respected name in the gardening world.
I have to start sunflowers inside and transplant out because of bird pressure. They love to eat the newly sprouted sunflowers. After they are about 2 weeks old and a few inches tall I have been successful in transplanting them outside without much stress or stunting. Otherwise I get no sunflowers. Strangely though the sunflowers that come back on their own don't seem to be bird bait!
I put little mesh berry baskets over my sunflowers, peas and beans until they are about 2-3" tall. Works great if you want to try direct sowing again in the future.
I start about 80% of my seeds indoors and for that I sterlize the growing medium - simply to help reduce the possibility of fungus gnats. But trust me, if I had a longer growing season to seed start outdoors - or could add a green house to my yard, I would skip all that. Fun vid - thank you.
I laughed when you started talking about trimming the roots. I do quite a bit of hydroponic growing, and root pruning is an accepted practice. I was nervous the first time, but now i can whack away with the best of them 😂
I use ProMix or Bm2 to germinate seeds cover them with vermiculite. Bought 200 dlls from botanical interest 2 days ago, when can i expect my seeds to arrive? Have been using your seeds since 2021. Love it
We should have them out today or Monday! We're working through a backlog of orders right now and have all hands on deck at our warehouse. Thank you for your order, your support means the world to us - Kevin
Great video, Kevin and Jaques One other myth seed heat mats are necessary. They help speed up germination, but they are not necessarily needed. I started using them for the first time, 20+ years this season, and honestly, I failed to take seedlings off quickly, and of course, they did not make it. Back to not using heat mats for me. 😅
This actually depends on the plant species. Some will not initiate germination until they hit a high enough temperature target (mostly applies to species that overwinter as a seed). These are plants that usually germinate in summer at 80+ degree surface temperatures.
I went through an post traumatic overwatering phase. Before I learned about soil hydrophobia, I would water not knowing that the soil was just running down the sides of my pot and not absorbing into my soil. Plants died and when I found out I said that’s never happening again, so I overcompensated by overwatering 😅
I'm so happy that my laziness and inconsistencies are actually helping my garden grow! 🤣 I'm rough with the seedlings, I haven't mastered my watering technique (I'm guilty of super light seedling trays, oops) and I've always started root veggies indoors. But I'll definitely be more conscious of the tap root as I ignored that part completely. Thanks as always for great content and I liked the format of this week's video as Kevin and Jacques set up/handed off the topics to each other!
Great video and good point. It's totally fine to be a little rough with your seedlings when you plant them. You can always cut back some of the leaves to compensate for the loss of roots. Have an abundant new season! :D
I didn’t know a whole lot about different soil types when I started to plant my basil and thyme seeds and they’re doing fine in the potting mix! Maybe a little slow now that they’re up, but it didn’t seem to hinder them. Maybe it helped that I checked on them every day to make sure seedlings weren’t getting covered by soil, but I basically just plopped it in dirt and waited
I add a little worm casting to Pro Mix. Yes, you may get a little algae which I think may be caused by worm castings but I’d like to know there is some food there if needed. Though I use to touch the soil for moisture I now just lift the tray or pot. I tended to over tend my seedlings and cause more damage than good.
I appreciate the tip about seed starting mix, but even that heavier soil is fine. You should do an experiment to prove it. In my experience with high quality seed, that heavy soil with chunks of wood barely inhibits seeds. I don't see a noticeable difference, even with lettuce and carrots.
I have over 150 tomato and pepper seedlings almost ready to go into my garden. I’m using ProMix for my seedlings, but I started my seeds with a Aerogarden Farm.
When you know everything being said, but realize you don't do them all! Thanks for the back to basics guys...perfect timing, great advice and reminder!! 👏
Great info. I had always been too lazy to ‘cook’ the soil in my oven. Just the thought of teeny tiny creatures in my oven just creeps me out. Besides like you said, eventually (and hopefully) the seedlings will need to survive and grow outside in ground.
Ive got nearly a thousand soil blocks pubched out and planted into. Hundred bunches of green onions, couple flats of lettuce, one of spinach, mustard, collards, chard, chijimisai, and a few kinds of strawberries. Have a couple flats of different peppe varieties, and a few different herbs. Trying turnips in blocks even. Going to pick up some more perlite and vermiculite so i can punch out another thousand blocks this weekend.
@@epicgardening After selling some plant starts and veggies, I'm going to buy a standing soil blocker. My hands ache in advance of the weekend Edit: One day later: My hands do indeed ache today. Thanks for the videos
Left San Diego 11 years ago. Cold had a new meaning. Watching people wear winter clothes in cool weather while I've adapted to a hoodie in 15° is hilarious to me now. I swear I walked by your place daily when I lived in SD.
I've been using Espoma Organic Seed Starter the last few years. I like it because it is ready to use - worm castings and beneficial fungi (mycorrhizae) already in the mix
Thank you.. really helps me keep my ole' mind "in the game" ... I get to wade through much ignorance and thankful for you guys who are well versed and share... wish I could help back.
Starting seeds in no nutrient soil has it's advantages. An earlier start, guaranteeing a full crop are two reasons. But, Answer me this. When planting a seed does it know if it's in a 72 cell tray or the ground? And will both germinate? I've got volunteer wave petunias growing vigorously in a drain that runs along side of my paver patio, and it ain't sterile. And we are in Maine. Great video, TYFS
I’ve had SO MANY SEEDLINGS die from damping off. Like… 90%. I finally figured out what it was but it was tough Googling “seedlings dying at 1” tall shriveled where stem meets soil” 😂. I learned I need to use only seed starting soil since it’s treated to kill fungus that’s causing them to die. So… fingers crossed for this year!
For the best nutritional value, (putting all that work into gardening, might as well have nutrition) it's important that the soil is alive with microbes, fungi and beneficial bacterial. I'm learning that there are some options out there.
After germination then plants are 1 to 2 inches but turning yellow leaf 🍁 what can you do to bring back to healthy plants again? Keep in mind I’m a stay at home mom that makes no money.
Well I’m not putting up with gnats and aphids again this year. Over the years there has been a change in the potting soils. It doesn’t matter the price either. Never had bug problems until last year, above all aphids as we don’t have them outside either. Started some lettuce inside with what is supposed to be a great potting soil-gnats again! Threw them out. We have an old roasting pan and any soil coming back in the house will be baked outside first. The eggs are in compost and I think some process must be left out in creating the potting soils. Those plants will get all the beneficial stuff they need in a few weeks when they get transplanted. Not starting too soon either as there is no benefit. I think some will agree especially if they don’t have a greenhouse. I have one and may just wait closer to spring and heat it then. The bugs are still a problem either way though. This latest infestation I seen the larvae that was just about to turn into an adult-they are huge! They can eat a lot of roots! I have propagation trays also and I just can’t have that. I think I tried every mentioned natural process to rid the seedlings of those bugs last year and either they don’t work or just slightly controls them. It was horticultural oil at the hardening off phase that finally worked. This time I used insecticidal soap and that has worked, but it was on ornamentals only and prefer to not use it on food. Winter sowing would be another option for most vegetable seedlings except peppers and onions the rest will catch up in my area. Just mainly want the mess kept outside and plants to stay bug free.
I disagree Kev, I believe when you treat your crops with love they produce more, however everyone's experience is different. Love your content I hope one day my channel reaches the level your channel is at one love from Jamaica. #staygreen
THANK YOU!! Feeling a little bit more confident and fingers crossed I'll grow more than 2 BLT's worth of produce this year! 🤣On my way to watch the stunted video! ...because I'm the one who also grew the mini art beets last year 😅
It would be nice if you included some soil block seed starting tips too, a decent amount of these only apply to seed starting trays. But still a great video, thanks
No worries, just wanted to point it out as a potential improvement since I know you are extending the Epic Ecosystem and featuring other creators in the videos. You guys are great, keep up the good work!
Ok i just asked one of your followers what is a good mix for seedlings. I've always used just seedling mix but am now hearing that it's better for the plants if you mix up 1 part of a good potting mix like Promix potting soil, with 1 part compost worm castings and 1/2 part vermiculite. Any advice is appreciated
Another fantastic post. Great going guys!! BTW, I love the new 4x4, 16 cell epics. can you guys make a 8x16 tray? or maybe 8x8. and of course make sure they fit in your 10x20s.
Good to see you guys didn't wash away with all the atmospheric rivers :) Thanks for the good advice - as a beginner, I definitely fall in the over baby category if I know about it lol.
Imo coco coir is way better anyways, doesn't require the ph buffering, absorbs water way faster and also drains faster, and doesn't get that compact top that sheds water down the sides of the pot. Basically impossible to overwater in a half perlite half coco mix.
Do you have a video about starting seeds without a green ouse? With heat matts and grow lights? This video was about starting seeds in a greenhouse, which most of us do not have. Just thought I'd ask. I don't have a green house, but I enjoy your videos. Thank you.
Same principles apply. Only thing not touched on is that depending on your setup your seedlings may get leggy so you'll need to find info on dealing with that. Also you might consider sterilizing your soil to avoid fungus gnats but it isnt a necessity.
Can I start seeds in a leaf (decomposed leaves only) compost? If not can I use it mixed with some seed compost (equal parts) with worm castings?? I live in south east Pennsylvania. Thanks
I've watched the section about increasing germination rate three times. I don't understand how adding more seeds per hole increases the germination rate of the seeds. I understand that by doing this you can usually avoid having a cell with a seed that didn't germinate, but Kevin stated (and the graphic showed) that the germination rate can actually increase by doing this (in the example, he said that the germination rate could go from 90% to 99%), and that doing this can "guarantee" a germination rate. I can't wrap my brain around this. I just do not understand how this works. How does planting more seeds increase the germination rate of all the seeds? Can someone please explain the science behind this? Thank you! 🙂
@gingerdean1521 I understand that. But that's not what was said. It was clearly stated that the actual germination rate for the seeds could be increased, from a hypothetical 90% to 99%. That's where I lack understanding. I know that simply planting more seeds per cell increases the chances of having at least one seed germinate in that cell, preventing a wasted cell. I do NOT understand how that increases the percentage of seeds that will germinate, in total.
The elephant is that it doesn't increase germination rate but the number of seedlings you get. They're just using the same word (wrongly) and it confuses you.
I don't have an answer because I'm with you on this. We know that the germination rate is based on number of seeds planted/number of seeds sprouted. It's basic percentage math. Maybe he's saying when you plant several seeds in a cell you have a better chance of having germination in each cell. Even that is predicated on quality seed and the right conditions. It's not like one seed sprouts and the others look around and think they need to get with the program!
Great video, thank you both. I have a question for you about soil in general. I'd love your opinion. I've been gardening quite a long while here in France;) Meaning , I don't garden in the US, nor use any of those commercial products or, tbh, understand the terms. When I hear "potting mix", or "compost" (for me, a huge outdoor double volume cocktail of dark and green material + kitchen scraps+/- molasses) better yet "planting soil" I don't know what you mean. When I buy "soil" that's the term used., Terreau/Soil. I'd love to have your take on the question (whenever you have time...)
I didn't make this video, but can offer this info: Finished compost is what is used. Some people make their own, some buy it already finished and ready to use. Potting mix is for potted plants, though some people use it for starting seeds. Seed starting mix is for starting seeds (some people make their own). Garden soil is for adding to the soil in the garden. The thing is, many people use different products in different ways, so it can be a bit confusing. Probably the best thing to do is to go to a garden center and discuss with them. They'll know what is proper for where you live, and what names are used there for different products. This is what I did when we moved from one zone to another. Hope you enjoy a wonderful garden for your efforts!
I like to start mine in a mix of half and half coco coir without any fertilizer, which helps avoid root rot, then water them with a very dilute liquid fertilizer and watch how they respond. Once they are getting a few true leaves in I usually start top dressing with organic fertilizer and mycoboost. Also if you have fungus gnat issues the perlite coco mix won't attract them since they are after the decomposing materials like the fertilizer.
@@iamjustkiwi I tried straight coir before and it just didn't work well. Now I just buy a mix that my local greenhouse uses for all their stuff which helps. It has enough fertilizer for 2 weeks. Fungus gnats I resolve by bottom watering. Problems always seem to come in the 2 to 4 week range for me.
Do you believe it is necessary to disinfect all the trays with the bleach solution to avoid pathogens? I just planted all my seeds in the cells and I did not do this…
I just used my raised bed mix or compost mixed with native soil 1-1 for my seed starts if the seeds can't make it in there I don't want those genetics outside
In your experience, would a few seeds in one cell Discourage leggy seedlings? Zone 6b East Coast USA and we don't have a green house so indoor starting w. heat mats and lights that are hung low and fan. Eric and Jacques thank you. I'll watch your suggested video.
I was looking at a greenhouse but in zone 5 it seems hard to have one. From what I saw is you either need a heated greenhouse or be ok with moving them out in the morning and in at night until the weather warms up
