Not bad, if anyone is watching this though for tips on how not to be a kook. They forgot to mention what makes a kook a kook and that’s burning people! Also don’t paddle up the peak, ideally find a riptide, or paddle out between peaks, to do your best to avoid getting in other peoples way. If you can do that then you are not a kook 👍👍
You really seem like a happy dude, Brad. Via the transitive property of stoke, your videos always put me in a more relaxed mood and may even make me a nicer person for the day. Thanks for the great vibes!
Hey, Ben Gravy should take some notes from the first tip. Just kidding, it is kind of funny how he wears his board shorts over his wetsuit though. Also, one time when I was in South Dakota, we were walking around downtown Keystone (I think) and there was this guy walking around with his board shots over a wetsuit (what ocean is he going to swim in??) my dad thought it was so funny he took a photo and the guy was looking right at him. 🤣
Just now learning to surf at 55, I am a total rookie. Thanks for all the tips. In the intro, Chris shows how to be a Barney and totally reminds me of Barney Rubble. Classic! 🤙
I'm happily the kook board renter for now, I moved right by the beach so I'm kinda obliged to be a kook future surfer lol. I got up for about 5 seconds in my first hour session. That 9 foot soft top is just too much, tired me out on the walk to the beach.
If you are carrying a mid-length and up to a longboard, especially with single-fins, always carry the board with fins forward and turned to your body, with a 9'0 you completely loose awareness of where the tail is and it's really easy to hurt someone or even worse, ruin your beautiful handmade board with a glassed on fin 😂
At Porto everyone pulls up right next to you. Love this spot, but that one thing is so annoying! Even in the rare moments when it's not crowded, you have a little peak to yourself, a surfer will paddle right next to you! I usually casually paddle away, sometimes they follow 😳 it's getting crowded like the 405 out there!
Yes crowded, but also I've noticed how they follow me, stick like glue. Rule of thumb, don't paddle out and sit right next to somebody. What happened to social distancing 6 feet apart? Pretend there's viruses out there!
I saw a dude at Manly beach, Sydney, Australia.. With a Big wave gun, flippers, and an American football helmet with cage, he used the gun as a boogie board, didn't ruin my surf, was stoked that the old guy was going for it..
i wear a swim short over my wetsuit , but its not for surfing , i do it because i go and come back from the beach on my bike and i hate when the neoprene is rubbing on my saddle . the short doesnt shaff , dry quickly and give extra pockets
Well with a single board on a rack nose forward is more aerodynamic and no it won't slide backward unless you forget to strap it down. With anything but 50/50 rails, wax toward you is easier to get a grip especially with wider boards. In the early 60's everyone used to sit outside and chat but that was before the age of social media where you don't actually talk face to face. In the age of multicolored hair & piercings of everything (some visible some not) does anyone really care what you look like? I know, I know it's all in fun! Like others have mentioned though the best surfer in the water is the one having the most fun! Stay stoked!
proper way to carry your board is wax TOWARDS you but hold the lower rail away from you a little and whichever end is forward stick it down almost touching the ground so the back sticks up. That's how I've done it for years so that means it's the right way.
Really like your videos. Fun, interesting and informative.. and a casual mix of the order in which it comes. Yeah... think i will buy myself a pink wet suit, with flashy white letters reading KOOK... If i'm being yelled at at least they can see i was anticipating their criticism....
In Va. Beach even the locals can kook it up. Gotta admit to mixing up left and right fins and surfed three different days frustrated as hell because my board sucked hahaha. I had another board with me, but a 5’4 twin fin wasn’t the best choice, sometimes we get barrels in VB.
I want to learn how to surf..but a little turned off by what I see by local surfers. They want to fight anyone who gets in their way or flip off people. I mountain bike, snow board, climb etc and have never had anyone want to fight on the mt bike trails for getting in the way. Are most vet surfers this immature or toxic? Or is it just the culture to fight like in hockey?
Surfing gives you a very short span of time actually surfing on a wave. In a few hours you will probably only have a few minutes total of actually being on a wave. So when somebody messes a good wave up for you it is very easy to get mad. The other sports you mention you get much more time doing what you went out to do. Snowboarding for example you could have a couple hours in a day actually snowboarding so if someone gets in your way it doesn’t matter as much since you can carry on where you left off.
Not most, but many. I almost always find uncrowned spots, but some days it’s unavoidable. Once you are better than the average surfer, you will get a bit more respect, but you will still encounter some dicks.
@@AIstudio4 edit: sorry nick I didn’t mean to direct the comment to you. Sorry about that. Original comment: Try to find a different spot. Some spots the guys take it more serious, they don’t have patience for people learning. They probably grew up there but had to learn at a lesser wave and had to work up to main break. At least, that’s how it was where I grew up. So, that’s the mindset. It might seem ridiculous to outsiders but to them it’s not. I’m not saying it’s right or wrong, just letting you know where it comes from.
I'm from Oklahoma originally but when I finally did make the move to come a surfer it was pretty easy to figure this stuff out. Dress code rules what to look out for I mean a lot of it was just common sense. But I was vert skater before I was a surfer and I think that's why I picked it up so fast.
