I had my worst surf experience ever at Malibu. Granted it was almost 30 years ago, but it was nothing like your video. Almost got my butt kicked, but that wasn’t the worst part. I’d never surfed anywhere other than the northeast at that point, and I was shocked and saddened that surfers could be such a-holes. I literally hadn’t even heard of “localism.” Until that point, I’d always considered surfing a brotherhood…if you’re on the waves, you’re buds. I was bummed out for 2 weeks after that! Glad to see that maybe it’s changed. regardless, that's a damn fine wave.
Bruce this guy is full of shit...Malibu, on a huge bad assed swell or miserable small swell is not a friendly place...me, I made sure I lived near the pier and could paddle into the line up..the early 90's was awesome..early morning..me and a few guys out...I have surfed a million waves there and put up with my share of shit even being a local..it's just a fucking zoo and always will be...and first and foremost it's a long board spot in spite of the short board hype...anyhow...I'm 75 and know of what I speak...you should have gone up the coast a little..Sequit, County etc...lots of waves none of the bullshit..
Same! But my experience was over 40 yrs ago! "Localism" was even glorified everywhere, with "Locals only" or "NO Vals" emblazoned on T-shirts and surfboards sold at the surf shops. It didn't help to live in the Valley at the time. I often found solace surfing at Big Dume where the vibe was much more brotherly (and older).
@@pheresy1367 not sure if it's just older/wiser, but the thought of someone claiming a beach for their own is the most ridiculous thing! I guess we have bigger problems these days.
In 79-80, I worked at the Chart House in Marina Del Rey. EVERYBODY that worked there surfed. One night after work, about 2am, we drove to Malibu for a full moon session. Paddled out and there was about 10 people in the line up!! That's how crowded and congested it is there. Hence the nickname "Vallazoo".
My best experiences are: #1. catching an outside bomber, all to myself. #2. Be that middle guy. The deepest guy was too deep, he got caught up in the whitewater. The guy on the shoulder looked back, he saw 2 guys behind him, so he kicked off the wave. That left me, the middle guy, all alone on the wave. Be the middle guy.
Surfed Malibu only once, and it's just a really intimidating place. The parking situation gives you a glimpse of what's going on in the water. It was a bit overhead and so crowded that on the handful of waves I did catch, I was too focused on dodging people to really have any fun. Snippy vibe, worse than Trestles or Rincon for sure.
Great video and commentary, as usual. I've been surfing tha' 'Bu since the mid-late 80's, around when I could start getting there in a car. A small correction... What you're calling "2nd Point" in the video here, is really just the deeper outside/takeoff section at 1st Point. Immediately behind that is the end-section and the schizophrenic twin of the actual 2nd Point - called "Kiddie Bowl". Kiddie bowl is a little deeper, but on the same strata, as Deep 1st Point - but in front of, or slightly behind the creek mouth. Proper 2nd Point is to the West of the Adamson House, outfront of a nearshore pile of cobblestones, to the West of the now usual position of the creek (which is too far East - more on that in a moment). 3rd Point, is the farthest West Reef, that's even ridable. That's the one with the occasional left off its Western edge, running towards Old Joe's - the pile of offshore rocks at the West end of the Surfrider set-up. Old Joe's is where you see the fence, branching out from-, and theoretically preventing entry to-, the Multi-Million dollar 'private' beach and homes at 'The Colony'. It probably isn't your fault, but it looks like you've mashed Kiddie Bowl, 2nd and 3rd into one big closed-out "3rd Point". Back in the 80's and early 90's - it was possible to ride waves from the vicinity of 3rd Point, all the way through 1st Point, perhaps even to the Pier - particularly if your name was Alan. Now, it's mostly a Closeout, with the opportunity for a few turns on a shortboard - if you're lucky. 2nd Point and Kiddie Bowl were absolutely phenomenal shortboarding, with relatively hollow tubes, around that same time - and rides all the way to the Pier were frequently doable, particularly for the regulars, including Alan. Q: So what happened, to change all of that!?!? A: They moved the Creekmouth East, closer to the Adamson House, and as I recall, the Surfrider Foundation was involved in the fiasco. For some reason people were complaining that there wasn't 'enough sand' in at the perfectly-shaped cobblestone machine known as 1st Point. It was nothing like broken - but somebody decided to "fix" it. At the time, the Creek was emerging up by 2nd and 3rd Point. And as with ALL natural creeks and rivermouths, it would punch straight out, during times of high volume, taking the path of least resistance, up by 3rd... And then over time it would meander East as the surf eventually closed the breach... Usually it would seal up around the inside of the Kiddie Bowl section. So under some misguided desire to build the point or the beach (berm), in by 1st Point, and down to the Pier - they moved the Creekmouth, by causing a breach between 1st Point and Kiddie Bowl. And then we had some HIGH VOLUME Winter rainy-seasons. Remember the late 90's? There were RV's being washed out to sea, up in Ventura. This cut a (too-)deep channel between Kiddie Bowl and 1st Point...and Built up a pronounced peak at the deeper outside takeoff section of 1st Point. In FACT - for a while, there was an occasional left, running into the sandy lagoon, which now divided 1st from Kiddie Bowl. And because that enormously powerful outflow had so marred both the Beach and Reefs - the Creekmouth began emerging consistently in that spot, directly in front of the Adamson House. It even began causing problems for the longterm survivability of that structure - as the Creek began eroding Eastward, and threatening to undermine its foundations. For more Information on Coastal Geology and processes - I'm pretty sure that Bascombe's "Waves and Beaches" is still a valid and useful introductory text. In it, he describes the natural processes for Beach and Berm cycles, River/Creek Breaches and Closing cycles, Erosion, Accretion - and even the definition of what "sand" is - from a geologist's perspective. To him whether we're talking about VW-Bus sized Boulders, Malibu's famous Cobblestones, or the fine grains that come home in your shorts - it's all the same stuff. The problem we've had, since the early to mid 90's is the way that the moved-Creekmouth shaped the Cobblestone "Sandbar" at 1st, and built that up. Now - when you're trying to ride through from 2nd Point or Kiddie Bowl, you're in a deeper water spot, than the submerged peak at Outside 1st Point. It's like you're trying to surf UPHILL... It just doesn't work. Which is why you'll see Alan and a few of the hardier shortboard rippers, dealing with the crowds at the deeper Outside 1st Point takeoff. Feel free to ask Alan, I'm sure that he'll confirm that he mostly just surfs 1st Point these days - because Kiddie Bowl through 3rd Point were essentially ruined, by well-intended idiots. Since that time, due to the financial might of SoCal Edison (which NEEDS to spend money on "Wetlands Restoration" - because they've destroyed so many, and then got sued for it), we've seen yet another misguided attempt to "Restore" the Lagoon at Malibu - and artificially plant a bunch of "Native" species, in an artificial set of Sand Dunes, running from 3rd to 2nd Point. Again that combined power, money and influence got Surfrider Foundation to sign-off - on something INHERENTLY AWFUL, for actual wave riding. In an ideal world, the Creek would punch out by 3rd Point, and create generally even shoaling patterns as it filled around towards 1st Point, eventually sealing up around Kiddie Bowl, and the top of 1st. Instead, it still punches out too far East, and then can often be seen running down, to close up, over by what they used to call "the Pit" back in the 60's (East of the Wall). And this fiasco was done intentionally.... trying to permanently FIX the Creekmouth into place, too far to the East, by the real 2nd Point. 🤬 Andy Lyons (the guy from the Subaru Commercials) TOLD THEM at the time - that their plan was all wrong... But why listen to local surfers, who understand the proper cycles and orientations of their local break - when you could listen to some "Biologists" and "Ecologists" getting paid off of the Edison Gravy Train? If you're looking to do some Investigative Reporting - you can see the exact same TOP-DOWN, surfer-wisdom-bereft Cluster-F, being repeated - by all of the same Corrupt AF forces - with the proposed "Restoration" of Ballona Creek... That "Restoration" seeks to "Restore" Ballona from the Freshwater Marsh that it's been for several thousand years - to a Saltwater Marsh, that would somehow serve the interests of the Playa Vista Developers, and the Orwellianly mislabeled "Coastal Conservancy" the "Santa Monica Bay Restoration Commission" along with some unaccountable parallel (slush fund) organizations, and the Annenberg Foundation. Ask Marcia Hanscome... She knows. Since the last failed "Restoration" of the Malibu Creek and Lagoon...a few locals, including Andy Lyons, have been working to help restore the point and the surf breaks, by moving the Creekmouth further West. They have had some marginally successful results... But still not enough to make the Kiddie Bowl - 2nd Point to 3rd Point stretch worthy of surfing, for the conniseurs, like Alan and Andy and myself...😢. Until then, during the filmable daylight hours you'll find me at Points further West. And you'll find Alan and Andy surfing 1st Point, with only memories of the lost grandeur of Kiddie Bowl, and the 2nd to 3rd Point stretch.
my strong opinion is, there are 3 points, Brad is correct, and the precise location of each varies, and sometimes can even disappear altogether. (on certain swells, swell angle, 3rd point does not exist, it is just a closeout) Tide height, and swell direction determines where each point is located, on a given day. Furthermore, each of these 3 points has "uppers" and "lowers". Just like Topanga has "main spot" (the main takeoff zone), it has "uppers" and you can stay in the bay for "lowers" so that makes 3 takeoff spots at Topanga. Any surf break, always has upper and lower part. That applies to EACH of the 3 points at Malibu. If you catch a wave at Uppers of 1st point, you will surf to the pier. If you catch a wave at Uppers at 3rd point, there is high chance you won't make it very far. (closeouts here) I've had great fun at "lowers" of 2nd point, also "lowers" at 1st point, with the strongest best wave being "uppers" of 1st point. "uppers" of 2nd point is the next best wave, assuming you make it all the way. (no closeout)
@@vickryan 4th Point is Old Joe's - the Beachbreak is the Colony. If you'd seen what Malibu looked like before they pushed the creek East towards Kiddie Bowl and 1st Point... You'd know why people used to surf the proper 2nd Point. It would connect all the way through 1st Point, regularly. 3rd Point was always less perfect than 2nd...but even that used to be makeable... Sarlo was known as the King of 3rd Point - and he could make it to the Pier, when it was good... Yes you can break down each point with half-Points... But the spot Brad is calling 2nd in the Video, is 1st Point, and what he's calling 1st is 1/2Point. Ask Andy Lyons, Mike Bromberg or Sarlo - if you don't believe me. The shape of the Points has never recovered back to the levels that we saw in the late 1980's and early 90's (and probably before that, but that was 'before my time').
These are not 'set in stone' names on a map, but in general these are the same names and boundaries I've come to know at Surfrider (as described by Another WorldView.) Somewhere around the flagpole/Adamson House is the deep end of First Point, most of the crowd is congregated east of that (closer to the pier.) Sometimes the Kiddie Bowl area can be fun, especially if no one's out there. Do you know how it came to be known by that name? I hadn't heard the name before, just considered it to be the nebulous area between First and Second. Finally, the crowd isn't always SO bad at Surfrider. When there's somewhat less people, etiquette is actually okay. But once the crowd hits a certain critical mass, it does become the sh!tshow everyone talks about (First moreso than the others.)
My 4 buds and I would take the RTD bus to Malibu from Echo Park and camp for two weeks straight. We would get asked to leave at night by the CHP and we packed up and when he left we headed for the river area of third point to sleep in peace. My name was carved in the girls bathroom door throughout the 1970s. "JENNINGS IS HOT" Those were the days!
In the late 70 s and early 80s we surfed above 3 rd point. The lefts and rights off the lefts. The lefts were a very high performance wave, that peeled all the way into the lagoon. When the creek opened under natural conditions. The waves were amazing. A hardcore young local crew existed . A whole different local crew existed at the very top .Rock Bed! This was just south of the large crop of rocks at the fence entering Malibu colony. So many great waves and so many great surfers
The earth belongs to everyone. The beaches belong to everyone. It's a travesty that because you have more money you get to be in the way of everyone else. But that's what it's all about right?
I would say your version of 2nd point is still actually 1st point. 2nd is not the most crowded spot, probably the least. Its a fast zippering in between area where either you get the Gem rouge wave that connects OR you're quick and know how to read a long wall and love a run away barrel.
May 82 , there I was a 20 years skinny Brazilian surfing my second time ever catching left overs on the 2 nd , Was in for half an hour , surfed few lousy 3 ft not a single sneak , now 2 out of 3 some douche drop on me .When saw it coming . a 6 ft + perfect set wave right on my face , looked around and not a single guy near . Dropped in thinking this one is all my , one guy tried but I blocked with a clean turn . I was and still am a good surfer , paddle back and he was few yards way from me , Well ten minutes later it happen , out of nothing was on the sand facing a much older and bigger local screaming , going to kick your ass . Never had a reason and fought in life , was scared sure thinking If he punch me I will die . Hope he reads these words bet he can't remember the few seconds of his nap . now begging for me to let go of his arm he sure does . Was not even a fight , didn't know how to punch only knew ways to stop a guy from moving , and brake parts of their body . Knew in the gym for fun , always with friends and was hard . Now at the time with someone who had no idea , even being much stronger a bully . Never thought it was so easy . was a lesson ,,if you can think while afraid you will do better .. We call J J and i was a brown belt , was my second and last time surfing Malibu . Nice place to visit , see not surf Few months later got a car , found out a place called San Clemente (Lowers) . That was S Cal for me .
@@kennyo0079 You got it wrong my friend , I rather run than fight . First I know and always respect the locals and whoever is already up and surfing the wave . I wrote not in full detail this bad moment while surfing in Malibu , said for no reason the big local guy found a way to put me in a spot in which a had to defend myself . Never before had a single real fight in life . Never had a single problem with anyone in San Clemente , Like I said S C was and is the real S California off my dream .Peace.
I was fortunate to surf Malibu in my late teens , it was bad but it wasn't as bad as it is today . I was also fortunate enough to surf at night which is pretty crazy. good memories.
Nice video Brad. Reminds me of NP & HB in the '60s. I quickly gave in & gave my body & soul to the Wedge. Having survived, I'm retired, living on the northern California coast, enjoying your excellent videos! Thank you!
Feb 15 , 1986 . Overcast rainy, glassy all day maybe 20 guys out from 3rd down to 1st . Powerful west , s/w swell 4-6 ft. . Malibu cyn. Topanga canyon closed. Zero Vals. Landslides along PCH. Rides all the way from 3rd to the pier. Yes it really happened.
3rd was the spot from 1980-2000. It had the shape of 1st, but with size & power. This was the heyday of sarlo et al, when malibu would still get cover shots As 3rd began sectioning and falling to pieces, attention shifted to 2nd, with shortboards making the move towards loggers
Such a beautiful wave! But, the worlds largest kook zoo. I grew up not far from there. My friends and I would surf first point on a full moon because we thought we could get 1st pt. to ourselves. Ran over a guy at 3 in the morning and he got bent out of shape. I told him where he could go! That was the last time I surfed Malibu.
Good stuff my friend but as a Minnesotan who's surfed Malibu and around the world, I had to "search" that ridiculously big swell several years ago when Laird went through the peer. Love your stuff!
I have been surfing for 50 years... And I live just a few miles from Malibu but I've only surfed it once! The crowd was INSANE!!!! 😱 I surf POINT DUME in the summer which is a much more powerful wave do to the submarine canyon right off the point and I surf SILVER STRAND in the winter which also has a submarine canyon offshore. BOTH SPOTS ARE HEAVILY LOCALIZED💀
Yes let’s gooo! I always thought 2nd point was the 2nd set of rocks you see after exiting the long walk through the lagoon. It doesn’t really matter, great video!
I surfed Malibu from 1967 to 1969. We would go on up to County Line if there were 12 guys in the water. One time we counted 20! This was Micky Dora's time. If one wanted to trace back why there's so many A-holes in the water here, you would end up at Micky Dora. I learned a lot of bad things from him, and I regret employing them. Really bad karma. But the surf was epic. There was only one point and it only broke there on the largest of south swells. Bob Cameron (think "older than Dewey Weber") swore that on one big south he took off at the point and made it *around* the pier. Me? I've taken off many times at the point only to chicken out at shooting the pier. No one, except Dora, dropped in on any one. Usually 10-20 guys out, waist to shoulder high and a wave that went on and on. That is, until the monster swell of 1969. The sand and silt came out of the mountains and the huge surf force it to turn south, cutting off the point and filling in the bay. The Malibu City Father's were stoked, because now there was a real beach ... "Oh, the tourist dollars!" So the peak was f'd and the inside section got f'd. I haven't been back.
"drive there and find a parking spot" section looks to be the end of the road above the Cove in PV. There's plenty of parking in that location and a good place for drone footage. Good luck finding that exact spot in Malibu.
2008 summer gave Malibu three all day, 15 ft plus glassy perfection. I have yet to see any film footage of this amazing 3 days. Anyone ever seen film of this? No place to park but where you would get towed away. Man what a day of Surfing like i have never seen at Malibu. Even my dog was stocked.
I remember in 87 Kevin Kelly dropped in on a dude at Topanga and dinged his board. The dude dragged Kevin in and took his board. Malibu was heavily localized growing up and there were places around Santa Monica, Venice and Oxnard where you didn't surf because of the locals. Now it's mostly chill which is way better.
If I’m ever a disaster survivor, and their aren’t a lot of people left around, I’m going straight to Malibu. I’m a pretty good fisherman, I can deer hunt. I’m a carpenter so building things is pretty easy. So that’s my plan. Scavenge the million dollar homes, build a “shack” right at the top of the point and live out my days. Find me a nice Martin acoustic and sounds like heaven. Might find me at Rincon too. No one steal my idea.
I've had some of my best surfing experiences here. The crowd can be a love fest, but people's tempers do flair regularly. Despite knowing that it's crazy and crowded and you will be dropped in on and likely drop in on others, folks do often get pretty angry that this is the case. The Malibu State of Mind for me has to be a zen acceptance that there are people here who know what they're doing, who are surfing for their first time, know etiquette and are ignorant of it (willfully or not), and that I may literally or figuratively run into celebrities. If the 405 had any elements of the perfect driving experience, Malibu would be kind of like that. Both are deeply Los Angeles experiences.
Sounds like you are evolving to adapt to the environment. I guess I'm too old to change and it just too frustrating to wait to get a wave and then when you get your own wave have it ruined by drop ins.
Would be interesting to do a comparison of Malibu Surfrider Beach and San Onofre. I haven’t surfed either but as a long-boarder I hear San O is overall a lot better, at least regarding parking and crowds.
Surfed Malibu a lot when I was young and aggressive. Had to be, even way back in the 70's, Was just about as good as anybody else, but not a "local". Never let anyone intimidate me. Now l'm just an arthritic old gray beard wishing I could be that guy again. Oh, well...
I've driven down this strip of PCH quite a few times, and the parking is pretty intense. I usually just keep driving past it, telling myself I'll try again next time haha
@@BradJacobson Thanks, an important thought when ya surfing at nite, don't think "shark". Once, I let it over come me and it messed me up--had to get out, lol! The red tide time was amazing, loved that one, the other times were also great and fun. It's different when ya surf at nite.
I surfed there in '72....a few local idiots were trying to hassle me by paddling over my board when I would take off. Was there by myself so no fight ensued.
Excellent....love your commentary style! ! Lifeguards ok with the drone? I wasn't sure if it was actually Malibu until the Sarlo cameo... then I knew it was for sure!
Couple points: #1. parking situation. (also driving there sucks) #2. "there is no real etiquette here" Brad says. Yes it is out of control. LOL. (2:00-2:15)
I lived In Malibu for 30 plus years grew up there . It was after blue crush and the SUP movement things started to change . In the 80’s 3 rd point was no red headed step child . I can assure you . However not a bad take on the whole thing . Tons more parking in winter and when you live there . It’s only when the swell is up in the news .parking gets that bad .
As a middle aged non-surfer (yet), I'll just find a place that has fewer people and learn there. I'm not looking to get hurt or hurt anyone (on accident or on purpose). Just seems like too many people in Malibu to be fun, IMO.
Love some of the shots of friends in the water! Thank you for sharing. A few things that stuck out to me…95% of the time people do not want to share waves with anyone, unless they explicitly invite you on to the wave! Respect and aloha will go far in the lineup…give respect, get respect…dropping in or backpaddling are disrespectful actions, so don’t be surprised if someone gets disrespected for pulling jock moves in the water. If you’re new to the spot, just sit inside and wait for someone to fall, get in line and wait your turn at the top, or paddle to an less crowded part of the point. FWIW, first point is what this video calls “second point” and then it goes kitty bowl, second point is “third point” in the video (the left off the top of second goes into the bay below third), third is further up at the top, and colony point is off the rocks. Malibu rules, even the biggest kook can get the wave of their life.
haha i really enjoyed watching this coz i also relate😅 same with our surf spot.. surfers has no etiquettes, no rules just surf freely 😅 maan i need to install bumpers in my surfboard 😅
Surfed the big M once, prob'ly 66 or 67. 10 ' hansen. Paddled out to the northern point, rode practically to the pier. Ez pz. Since i lived in north san diego county, i frequented tamarack in carlsbad, oceanside harbor, Cardiff reef, swami's if not too crowded. Checked out Blacks once, hoping to spy some naked gals for great 'mammaries'.....😅🤣😂 ...NOT! Dana point pier pretty good pre-harbor days. Drafted into army 68, 6 month early out. returned to surfing immediately....like, duh. Got involved in motorcycles, so surfing took a back seat. Came back to the waves on a boogeyboard. Heck, just as fun. Found great surfing at trestles and old man's. 73 now, botched left foot, dementia. Married to same gal +52 yrs. Awesome life, three successful kids, 4 of the cutest gkids on this here earth. C U L8R!!!
it's funny because it makes me feel so good inside when i see people on the same wave signaling to each other and synchronizing so they all can get a ride. and then im instantly trigger af when i see a group of 3 all drop in on eachother.
😂 … interesting update, mahalo! … many decades ago my mom used to surf here late 50’s & early 60’s (before we moved to NS, Oahu) … and I remember it was crowed back then too! Parking was MUCH easier and waterfront funky beach homes still easily affordable … we lived on Old Malibu Rd on the Colony break. And back then, some guys resined-in razor blades into the tip of their boards … so if you took off in front of them or they did not want you out there … they would kick out on your body … with highest scores on your head. My mom always work head to toe wetsuit with a zinc oxide face … they used to ask her, “lady, what planet are you from???” …. she loved it and thought it hilarious … yeah, that was my crazy mom who did uppers and downers with Webber 😂
.......I don't think it breaks best on a South Swell...I've surfed it BEST on a WEST Swell in late December...Taking off at the Rivermouth and surfing it all the way to the Pier......at 15 ft. PLUS......now THAT'S GREAT MALIBU.........
I like your channel bro. I've been dinged there so many times to where I don't go anymore. There's no etiquette there. Just a bunch of beginner hobbyist.
Brad - Malibu are for kooks and waves are not high performance. Surf there for many years always disappointed with the talent level...Good Video Brad...the. 🐐
