Your thumbs up count should be WAAAAY the hell over 37..more like 370,000,000. I amazes me to no end why idiots 1. Keep supporting this asinine company, and 2. buying them an iCrap for a gaming rig. ANYTHING is better at gaming than a crapple machine. It's STILL not built for that.
1: Double check your standoff screw count in your case to make sure it's the exact amount needed for the motherboard. I had one extra and my mobo sparked up months later. 2: When mounting a CPU fan always screw it in diagonally bit by bit. Fully screwing in 1 side might result in the other side being lifted far too high to screw in. I always do top left, bottom right, bottom left, top right. This is a common mistake me and my friends have made. Never screw them in all the way until all screws are screwed into the socket alittle. 3: Double check all plugs to assure they are fully in before booting the PC up. It's common for people to overlook a fan or harddrive plug not being fully in resulting in some heartbreaking damage or heating issues. Check for: -CPU fan -Case fan(s) -Harddrive(from sata and power supply if needed) -GPU if required -Headers 4: This isn't building but important for after it's built. Do NOT put the back of your PC directly up against a wall. Give it atleast a foot of space or the heat will fireback into it. Last: Do not place your Power Supply upside down if your PC case isn't open below and you don't have a floor where air can flow like a crate or bars. Often I had people tell me they was told it's optimal and almost everytime it backfired on them because of this. You can't blow hot air into a table and expect cooling. Goodluck builders. Most of this is common sense so you'll be fine if you be patient and don't rush.
Also for the PSU: if you have kets say 3 intake Fans and only one exhaust, place the PSU with the fan facing upwards. This will increase airflow but will barely affect the PSU since it's usually at the bottom of the case anyway, where there is not much heat.
@@phantomlegend6167 I had an extra standoff in the motherboard and it was making physical contact with the motherboard. My dad put my pc together because I was sick when I got it. I didn't double check the standoffs only the plugs.
@@phantomlegend6167 Yeah eventually. Truth is it took 3-4 months before it caused severe damage. So if thats any indication of how long you have to assure this mistake doesn't happen to you. Before my motherboard turned into the merica gun from Saints Row 4, I would have strange power issues where my usb ports were not working correctly from the motherboard. Constant disconnects or simply being unable to get a device to connect at all.
4:47 I had a friend bring in his mother's computer (that I had built) with pins like that on the AMD CPU. A CPU that was still attached to the heatsink. How, you ask? Well, I had told him to remove the heatsink fan so that he could clean it (and blow air through the heatsink fins). He instead removed the heatsink, but he somehow managed to pull the CPU as well...still attached by the baked thermal compound. Which, if he knew what he was doing, might have been fine. But he didn't. So after he was finished washing the heatsink (yes, he did), he tried to put it back in.This went...poorly. Luckily, sanity prevailed and he brought the hot mess to me. So after getting a good laugh out of it, I fixed everything up and that computer is still chugging along.
Just two things. When unplugging a graphics card, remember to unlock the PCIE port. Also the pins on the USB 3 motherboard jack are very easy to break, be careful when inserting that annoying cable.
Yeah... I thought I had the PCIE slot unlocked once... and ripped the whole slot off the board. Fortunately the board has 2 slots, so I just used the other one, but I should get a new board at some point. And make sure the next one has a classic PCI slot so I can install my old sound card again, RealTek onboard sucks for gaming.
Don't use incompatible cables for your modular PSU, it's not standarized and altrough it may fit into the connector, wiring will be very likely swapped, it can result in a death of your PSU or even other components, Greg from Science Studio made this mistake. When choosing some big ass air cooler, check height and RAM clearences for you case, very often you may run into issues with some tall RAM sticks. When installing two sticks of RAM in a 4-slot motherboard, make sure you choose correct slots, usually 2nd and 4th from the left, but check the manual anyway. If your case has a lot of perforations, holes meshes etc. you should have a possitive air pressure fan configuration, so eg. 2x120 on intake and 1x120 on exhaust or 2x240 on intake and 2x120 on exhaust, it will stop the dust coming inside the case through unfiltered holes and reduce the cleaning intervals. Don't use swiss army knife as a screwdriver!
@@peischtipeir I assume because SAKs usually have naked metal (from the other tool components) on the sides, so if you grab the whole knife, it will conduct electricity
That's what I found a choosing my pc parts few months ago. Read lots of reviews and it turns ou under 90$, everything is pretty much shite. Everybody says "buy seasonic !", but the popular m12 is shite. cooler master, be quiet, corsair, everyone, as long as it's not 80+ gold (few exceptions), it's no good. Though it still works. 9 years ago I bought a antec HCG 520w, cheapish, still runs today no problems (the fan is getting louder obviously). 24/7 oc on the old phenom 955, shitty cheap asrock vrm, lots of dust/vape/smoke. Still runs. So shit psu/hardware can still be fine. or it can crap out. But "You'd find that Lady Luck was really a hooker, and you were fresh out of cash"
@@escalator9734 Completely disagree, i have a cooler master G750M 80 plus bornze and it works perfectly fine... Its ridiculous how people keep wasting their money on 80 plus gold PSU`s when they have a small budget, aslong as its 80 plus bronze or more its perfectly fine...
When you're shopping for a new build, don't check out your cart in the middle of the night. Sleep on it, you will want to make some changes next morning.
Also they didnt even mention the most important that unless your living in UK not ALL plugs are grounded in most countries. Its mostly the plugs in the kitchen and washing room that have ground pins.
@@tomwes8390 I didn't even think of that. Over here it is required by law to have all plugs grounded. Especially in older houses it could indeed be the case that not all plugs are grounded!
@@Muscleduck It ofcourse depends on the country but especially on Euro plugs you have to be careful. People just assume that the socket is always grounded but with euro sockets you can see if its grounded. If there is no metal pin in the euro socket sticking its most likely not grounded. The ground pin goes inside the euro plug so it touches the inside of the plug. Opposite of normally where the plug goes in to the socket. The plug must also support grounding (hole in the plug). Not all power strips have ground support
@@Muscleduck Explaining for the rest of the viewers how to spot a EU grounded socket :) Wat een mooi toeval! Wist niet eens dat die wet daar zo was in belgie. Gelukkig nieuwjaar nog. Groeten van je buurland
I accidentally dropped my brand new cpu on its socket one year ago. It bent few pins (lga 1151 socket) and I fixed it with some help from your video. What a horror..
The static dissipative bag the motherboard comes in is a far superior work surface compared to a cardboard box. A proper ESD mat is static dissipative, so the motherboard bag is literally the best surface possible if the bag is also grounded, i.e. sitting on the side of a tower which is plugged in to an electrical outlet.
@@Ravenousjoe that's incorrect, the whole bag needs to be coated in aluminum or its not an ESD bag. The whole bag is slightly conductive, 1,000,000 to 100,000,000 ohms of resistance, so is dissipates electricity with shorting anything out.
@@SpecialEDy All of those are different types of ESD bags. Not all of them are conductive, and not all are dissipative. Either way, a cardboard box is completely suitable.
@@Ravenousjoe Then why did the manufacturer of the motherboard spend $0.25 on an ESD bag if cardboard if perfectly suitable? They shipped it wrapped in an ESD bag because it's not safe for it to come into contact with cardboard. Cardboard is an insulator, which is dangerous for ESD sensitive electronics.
Two things. These might be common sense for a lot of folks but here goes. 1 Research the system you are interested in for PSU wattage. Wasn't on the box of the one I just bought. 2 If you are going to add a video card, find out the recommended CPU and PSU wattage. And compare said graphics card with the onboard. They might be about the same depending. Learned the hard way...
I have a friend using an A10 apu with a gt730 and no matter how much I tell him that the integrated graphics are better than his graphics card but he still insist on that gpu
As an Italian, this comment horrified me. Lets make things clear: you need to wait till the water boils, then you put salt in it, and then PASTA! And wait till pasta is perfect to remove all the water...
@@JesusMeza3 that works, but for optimal performance, make sure to put the CPU on the thermal paste and then the motherboard. You'll get lower temps and an extra gigabyte of coolant.
We at the Verrge use special Thermal compound. If you follow my directions clearly when apply and use my technique of the "Bukkake Thermal Sugoi" method, you can actually lower your temps by at least 20 Celsius. Some suggestions I would add would be to replace the liquid in your AIO or custom loop with thermal spunk, it will cool it far better. You should install the memory in the closest ram slot possible, it is a advance technique called Fusion memory. You must install both sticks simultaneously in the exact same time, in the exact same way. If your timing is off, you will not achieve proper Fusion memory. Even the angle of your wrist, and the amount of pressure have to be exact. Doing it correctly will increase the memory speed exponentially. This technique was taught be master race builder Yardrats. I only know of 2 others who can install memory with such skill. Master Race builder Goten, and Trunks.
Never had any of these problems because I researched for months before a build when I started out. Now, I have no issues at all when building. Pro tip for those that are new to hardline tubing....when bending, slow and steady is the key. Dont try to rush it because it's boring and tedious. Take your time with your bends and you will be rewarded with a beautiful PC.
A habit I got into with thermal paste is to spread it on the die with the little foam pad usually used to protect the chip's pins in the packaging. This makes for a thin layer across the entire surface with even coverage and no gaps.
the bios problem happened to me but there was a computer shop that had a first gen athlon ryzen spare so they updated my bios and then put my 2600X into it
I work in a enterprise level DC, no one uses static wrist bands as we all just ground our selves to the server chassis because the whole rack is grounded and the humility is controlled. You only run into BIOS firmware issues for CPU compatibility if the motherboard was manufactured prior to the CPU generation, this happens at my job once in a while mainly with older equipment that runs both a v3 or a v4 CPU depending on the firmware on the motherboard.
I have always worked on my bed or the carpet, never had an issue, you should only really generate static if you are moving limbs around and rubbing them or walk around drag feet along.
I dont often Install new CPU's but when I do I like to apply the thermal paste to a rubber mallet and then WHACK the installed CPU until its fully covered #BestResults
Regarding M.2 drives: if you have a pc already with an M.2, check out if it's mSATA or nvme. Generally the port supports both, but do make sure beforehand. DON'T force it on the slot, it's supposed to slide in easily. Finally, check the bios m.2 configuration (raid0 or ahci) that's more adequate/compatible for your drive
Here a year after I watched it the first time and I gotta say a couple things. 1) a dude back in college accidentally tried putting his USB 3.0 cable into his motherboard BACKWARDS and fucked the pins all to heck. No more front panel USB ports for that PC... (RIP the next class that gets that PC...) 2) Just a few days after the dude broke his USB front ports, AND AFTER WE MADE 2 MORE COMPUTERS, a dude tried putting his processor in the socket, but oriented it wrong because he didnt look at which way the arrow on the processor went and same for the motherboard, pushed down on it, and bent several pins. We fixed it, but didnt let him put the processor in. We showed him how to do it again after we put it in.
While many motherboards nowadays have multiple M.2 connectors, be aware which kind of M.2 connector they are. Some may only have one NVMe M.2, while the other one or two are keyed and will only support SATA M.2 drives. A quick look at the connector will confirm or deny this, as SATA M.2 connectors have 2 keyed tabs, wheras NVMe only has 1. SATA drives will work in an NVMe connector but not the other way around. Also note that M.2 connectors sometimes lock out certain SATA ports when in use. For example, installing an NVMe drive into M.2 port #0 may disable SATA ports #0 and #1. Check your motherboard's product page or manual to determine if this functionality is present.
TL;DR: 1) a little too much thermal paste is ok. be careful if it overflows on motherboard (MB). use "grain of rice" or "pea size" amount is good. 2) build PC on non-static surface (e.g. cardboard box of MB) and ground yourself. 3) check which CPU gens MB supports and which firmware version is required. if needed, upgrade bios first. (sometimes old CPU gen needed) 4) don't push down on CPU. 5) M.2 is only the connection. M.2 drives with SATA interface exist. be sure to buy NVMe for better speed.
Well, It’s not recommended. You can build up static energy while rubbing your feet against the carpet and something could happen with your stuff when you touch your hardware. So you’re better off building a pc not on a carpet.
I've applied too much thermal paste in the past. It's a huge mess to clean up afterwards and gets everywhere. Glad, I learned that lesson. Oh, and I shouldn't push the CPU down? OOPS!
Make sure there's nothing under the motherboard when you're tightening it down. At best, the system won't boot...at worst, it could short out & fry your motherboard.
I am not to sure if people have said this maybe they have but if you want to see a build and see if there are any problems with it you can use a website like pc part picker and there you can get a idea of not only how much your build cost but if there are any incompatibility with the builds and if your not to sure on how much power you need from a power supply you can use Newegg power supply calculator to help out and see what kind of power supply you need.
1) close any vents with filters, pcie slots with missing brackets etc, wherever dust would enter. I fried an (admittedly low end) GPU to learn this. 2) screw hard drives tightly, especially consumer grade. Manufacturers have described the read errors & increased wear caused by loose drives (avoid HDD suspension systems).
Don't forget making sure your CPU cooler can handle your CPU of choice....[stares with disgust at the FX-9590 and how it's incompatible with 95% of air coolers]
Attention to M.2 SSD slot position. Some motherboards (like mine) have the M.2 slot just under the graphics card, so the heat of the card affects the SSD, which also heats up by itself during normal operation. This extra heat can make the SSD lose some performance because some throttle down when too hot. In extreme cases the system can hang (like what`s happening to me right now). Another problem is if your SSD already comes with radiator fins, so you may not be able to fit the graphics card at all. Some motherboards have a non-dumb position for the M.2 slot, and some have even their own radiator solution in case your SSD is bare (like the Samsung 970 Pro I have). In my situation, I will try to use an M.2 PCIe adaptor to install it in the second PCIe X16 slot of the motherboard. It also comes with thermal pads and casing, which help dissipate the heat. I hope I can solve my problem and the SSD hasn't ruined, since I have this setup for over a year and only now began to experience these issues.
Speaking of M.2. Its really usefull to read the MOBO manual. For example its common that M.2 port share the bandwidth with some SATA ports so if you are using PCIE x4 on M.2 it may results into some of your SATA ports may not working. I would save hours of troubleshooting with my HDD not deteced and the solution was just simple plug in into different SATA port.
Make sure to use stand-offs for securing the mobo into the case, and make sure they are placed correctly into the case, that is aligned with the screw holes in the mobo. Also double check that all the cables are connected properly before trying to boot up the system.
I understand static discharge is overstated. Most all stuff has plenty of shock tolerance so that unless you're walking around with a sweater and rubbing your feet on the carpet with a visible painful shock happening when you touch things, you'll be fine. Or at least it seems to me from what I've read elsewhere that if you can't see or feel shocks, then they are not strong enough to damage anything.
I am actually building a PC tomorrow, my first PC. But I do have a question: I am using an Intel core I 7/7 generation using the LGA 1150 socket from a PC that has since been discarded, do I need to clean the processor in anyway before I install it? I know it sounds like a stupid question
stop. whatever you are doing, stop right now and rethink your plan. today's i7 use *LGA1151* Sockets, *not LGA1150* . I am not sure how different they are, but I am damn sure that your idea won't work out well. _maybe_ you end up finding out that I was wrong, but do your research first, for the sake of your cpu, mainboard, and budget.
@@joecaroselli9945 install it it the socket and clean off any old thermal paste of the CPU and apply new thermal paste to the CPU just if u are reusing the cooler clean the base also if it is a new cooler check for preapplied thermal paste before putting thermal paste on the CPU and no it isn't a stupid question don't worry :-)
It's best to have a qualified friend literally walk you through your first build. From the beginning of planning/ordering parts. Especially if you haven't been formally trained or have a+ cert. Need to know about qualified vendor lists and compatibility of h/s ware.
My house isn’t very big so I was recently kneeling at my coffee table on carpet dropping an 8700k into a new Mobo (Amazon blackfriday deal) I had the power supply plugged in and switched off by me and I often touched it to discharge static. I had no issues, upgraded rig runs great!
Last year I was cleaning my pc tower. When assembling everything together again I didn't notice one of the placeholders of my cooling fan was kind of bent and I ended up positioning it incorrectly... while it was pushing the processor more than it should. When I noticed half of the pins on the board were bent and I had to spent sweet 3 hours repairing them. Gosh, it took a lot of patience.
Here is something that is hardly ever mentioned: Before changing a CPU out, turn the PC on and let it warm up first. The thermal compound will be soft enough to allow the heat sink and fan to separate without pulling the CPU with it. Also, when installing fans make sure they are facing the way you want, most are marked "in" or "out" or with an arrow indicating air flow. And last, but not least, because I've know people who did this, never use your finger to see if a fan is turning; you will damage it and even a plastic fan blade can hurt!
When pulling down the retention arm, push down on the metal square doohicky so it goes under the screw. I didn't do that and I'm pretty sure that you're not supposed to hear a crunching sound when you pull the arm down.
This video is what I needed when I built my first PC a few years ago. It's concise. Covers some obvious problems and makes life easier. No I didn't make any of these mistakes, but I did my research before hand.
Yes you do. Static electricity can still build up in your body. It won't be conducted by the table but it will be conducted by the motherboard if you don't watch out.
Make sure you build to be upgraded and build on a DDR4 compatible motherboard, my first build was an AMD FX Series and DDR3 and it was outdated, it forces it to where the most you can upgrade to is a Mid-range computer and once something eventually degrades or shorts, which wont take long, it's even more expensive to replace than newer models. When my Mobo went out I had to sink almost 400 into replacing the parts with a slightly better Ryzen compatible Mobo along with the new RAM and CPU because they weren't compatible with anything that is slightly newer. Dont cheap out, you'll pay for it in the future
I have a tip for you Linus. Place the episodic videos in a playlist so when we stumble across something that says part 5 we can find the other four related episodes! Also, fire the person responsible for doing this. On second thought, don't fire anyone, cuz they're all awesome.
