Don't make this timing adjustment mistake that destroys classic car engines 

Why is she shouting?

Ok I had to read comments just to get a lay of the mechanical smarts on here lol.... I guess most people here can not recurve their own dizzy...or even read total timing all in by 2500rpm...or even know how to degree a dampner with a simple marker... Hey they might not even own a timing light....100% the ear is not a precise device to use to time an engine... so to it get up and running always stay on the conservtive side just to be safe more is not always better... I mean you hear the starter kicking back and you still give it more then you deserve a melted piston...or a dead starter😂... Cars are not some dark magic they are science in motion that can be measured ..tuned to spec there is no room for guessing... but you will always have those who will live by old wives tales....so flip those pistions from side to side and give it 36° BTDC and watch it go!.... And please said people stay far away from a modern cars 😂😂😂

Advance is deigned into the distributor Timing is restricted set by compression /camshaft/fuel octane / combustion chamber design . Timing is categorised into 2 main areas 1/ mechanical and 2/ vacuum 1/MECH is set into idle / max independently of each other . Advance curve starts 200rpm after idle . Rate of increase and ,, max timing should be achieved as quick as possible depending upon engine pinging / detonation response . 2/ Vacuum advance is designed to give xtra advance when engine conditions of light throttle and load . Why u need more time to allow for a low density fuel to ignite . This occurs in top gear 1to 1 at between vac readings at 35--55 mph

This stuff also comes into play with a "driver" and not a "racer". A lot of stuff you see on here (the internet) is Race-Based, not Driver-Based. I watch a lot of these videos and read a lot of forums, where people say to do this or that.... and it's way out for a Driver and will burn them down in a few 100 miles. I'll admit I've bumped them up to get a fire-up if it's being stubborn.... but its just a "1st Fire" then I bring it back down. Good video, and yeah, I was one of those like you that had a knee jerk moment on this... "revival videos" that are so popular on the net now.

Yeah..always have that timing gun to make sure your total max timing doesnt go over what the engine can handle. Might sound great on idle but getting onto a freeway you might blow your engine.

So, do you think that getting as high as possible initial timing, as “tall John fun Garage” recommends, it does not improve throttle response, power and driveability ?. BR

Factory specs don’t mean anything anymore. Fuel is different than it used to be.

Wow, you kind of know what you're talking about but you're all over the place on the nomenclature. Pass.

Great explanation Kim. What also comes into play is that age old argument of manifold or ported vacuum advance. I may be wrong, but those arguing, are on opposite sides of the fence. Manifold for a race engine, ported for a quietly driven street car is the way I'm hearing it.

Oh God.

Thanks for the video! Hope you saved somebody a YOU IDIOT moment! I would say that if your using a vacuum dashpot on your distributor..and it's basicly a stock engine (meaning it has factory spec cam and intake) then keep it as close to factory specs as possible. I've seen some old school tuners that could tune by ear..but that comes from years of doing it. I wouldn't recommend making any big timing changes without using a timing light

That was funny how you added the intro as an out-tro. 😂😂 The vacuum at idle thing is for setting the idle mixture screws on a carb if I'm not mistaken. I've never heard to do that for timing. I learned something new, because I didn't know that was a thing. Are you running points on that, or did you update the distributor? And what's the plan for the hot rod? 426 Hemi with a fogger and 2 kits (or a screw blown Hemi)? A new generation Hemi with twin 88mm turbos? Some of us OGs from your other channel need to know these things! It's also cool to see this side of you. Keep the hot rod thing going. Also, I can't wait to see you do a little testing on the Hog. Some of the guys involved in that are racers I looked up to in drag racing. It should be a blast!

Hey, I hear ya, Kim. I grew up working on 60s cars. Most of my friends had no clue about timing or tuning because they were too lazy to "read" the books on automotive science. I did read 'em, and so became designated tune-up guy in the hotrod group. Ignition timing can either enhance your engine's performance or destroy the engine from within.

You need to learn how a vacume advance works.

We love your work. Thanks for sharing.

Vacuum timing ….my 235 runs great. It is hard to time a 235 with the pressed in bb in the flywheel so vacuuming timing seems to work. But I do have a electronic distributor from an S-10 Langdon mfg. and changed over to alternator from 5th street garage Randy Rundle the inventor has passed away but his family is still making these 5 star alternators. I don’t think Vacuum timing is harmful? Thanks Steve

I usually go up a steep hill and advance the timing until it pings, then back off. Then again there are so many ways to time an engine. Some better than others.

Hi Kim love your content you are spot on the timing talk issue I admire your experience in auto talk, and when you said mopar I had to subscribe. I currently have a Duster 71 with a 340 I use a FBO plate In my distributor, before I would get pinging now I have the control with the plate.

That’s a sweet ride! Great content and good input! 😃👍

Just found this video, and im planning to "revive" the 1951 Chevy Fleetline Deluxe (235, Powerglide) i bought a few months ago. This video scared the crap out of me. Now i have to figure out how much the motor was messed with. Excellent, eye-opening info!

Some of these cars I think were designed to run little or no advance at idle in order to be very quiet and smooth and had a lot of vacuum advance and/or centrifugal advance built in,so "timing for best idle" would dangerously overadvance on the road? also if you blow up an antique engine it won't be easy to find another one! Get a good timing light.

This is the best explanation I have heard in the last 50 years of playing with Minis and Old MG's which I am fiddling with now in retirement. It shows, if you are open minded, it is never too late to learn something new. Thanks for this and I think my MGA needs the timing backing off a little. I go back to the basic static setting again and work from there.

Thankyou! ❤

Great video, would love to see more in depth explanations like this!

Kool

I'm glad someone finally said it.

We've got a Buick straight eight that doesn't rev and does a fart noise when stepping on the gas. We have absolutely no idea why!

Hello, according to your experience, what is the best initial timing for a 2 bbl’s slant six, 10 Degrees ?.