exactly what I was looking for. I tried using epoxy and it was a fail. I use very rotten wood and bring it to life with epoxy resin. I think this is going to help me out tremendously.
This is what I do, too. Sometimes I do pre-sand the live edge if it looks like the PC Petrifier cured on the surface, or more often I don’t use the PC Petrifier on that edge but just soak from the top and the bottom.
I see more the epoxy seal coat as a means to stop micro bubbles vs stabilizing the wood. With the pools still open, this isn’t providing that function. This would work for the black regular jobs, but not the clear art pieces, especially for turning bowls.
hey there great video! i have the exact same problem with the slabs im working with right now very punky, spalting beech wood. however for our certain situation, me personally, i would advise using something like total boat penetrating epoxy to seap into that punky wood to strengthen the wood. the piece you showed being really weak isnt gonna be strenghtend to the extent with the pc pour as much as the penetrating. but for regular wood that is not punky, i think your method using this pc product is a great way! also saves money since the epoxy can be expensive.
Actually, PC Petrifier will penetrate deeper than total boat pentrating epoxy and it still allows other epoxy to penetrate and chemically bond to the wood. I've tried many other "penetrating" epoxies and nothing works as good as PC Petrifier.
@@fjelstednord3159 yes it penetrates deeper but you need strength with the epoxy, you can thin out the epoxy with an aray of different chemicals, it works decently well. i will say if you could use a combination of this PC, and then a "top coat" of penetrating epoxy more on the top part of the wood i think thatd be best. especially for this punky wood type of project
I see this works good on punky wood. What about a white oak table top that is in great shape and freshly sanded to bare wood? The mfgr of the epoxy doesn't see how this applies to normal wood. They say use epoxy to seal and maybe polycrylic as an alternate.
Have you used this on bark on a river table? I've always read you have to remove the bark when making a river table as it will be a weak point and will separate if you don't. Will PC petrifier fix that?
But if you pre-seal the edges with epoxy you only wait until it's tacky but not fully cured. That will get it into the pores of the wood yet still get a chemical bond with the main epoxy pour. Am I wrong?
That's why I was searching these types of videos. I'm going to try the polyurethane as a sealer on plain pine then pour an epoxy flood coat. I'm really just trying to keep my costs down!😂 what do you think?
I've used many other products as well as poly and it's been my experience that PC Petrifier works the best. If there was something better, I'd be using it
How do you figure? The point is to stabilize and harden the wood so epoxy can still penetrate and chemically bond to the wood fibers. Epoxy as a pre-sealer prevents that.
