Agreed I got 11.5whp gain in my stage 2 once I changed the turbo inlet. I don't think the muffler delete will give you much but if someone has figures I'd be keen to know what it was.
Intake I can somewhat agree with. When I did a turbo muffler delete I noticed better throttle response. My BOV is purely for driver engagement. Keep in mind mods are useless without other supporting mods. Don’t just put on a turbo muffler delete, upgrade your charge/discharge pipes and inter cooler. Yes it can get expensive but your whip will have more endurance. This isn’t a rebuttal, you’d do well to take his advise to not spend money on minimal gains if you’re not doing a a bigger set up.
Totally on point, most of the mods mentioned are add ons by VW owners because, well the average tends to be on the younger side. I'm adding an exhaust system definitely for the sound, I need to be heard. When you live in TX and everyone drives a lifted truck, every bit helps to be spotted!. Great video!
I just pulled out the snow catcher and fitted a panel. Defo the best way to go and such a cheap mod. The factory box almost eliminates heat soak and as you say, they flow perfectly well. those hyper expensive induction kits are just companies trying to get people to part with obscene amounts of cash.
Sadly my tcr is a lease car. Heat soaking was a big issue during last summers trackdays. Doing the pikey mod was not an option. Got vwr600 airbox, turbo elbow/inlet/outlet, wagner intercooler replica. Funny thing is the vwr600 airbox did cost more than the rest of the parts from AliExpress combined. However turbo response is much better now. The engine feels punchier from low revs and is actually making real noises now :) well worth the 700 Euros especially because theyre all plug and play parts :) thanks for the well made videos. Greetings from austria
I found the turbo elbow increased turbo noise and, combined w/ a silicone inlet pipe and removing the snow guard while using a dry drop-in filter, improved spool time. As for bang for buck, meh. Tune is still the best value.
I did the exact same mod on my R and I felt the same about the spool time , oh and I did a Stage 1+ also :) No exhaust work and probably wont touch it.
@No you not true....i started with suspensionnmods..when there was 241km in the clock... HR Sway bars...034 street density top mounts..all inserts avalaibel..front rear...and so on...together with the inlet pioe tmuffler delete and 90deb elbow and drop filter....and it was sooo goood!!!
That's why I'm doing a down pipe (which is being delivered tomorrow), JB-1 piggy back and aftermarket mounts for the shifter, cables and dogbone. Should make it feel like a different car after that, I do want a muffler delete for the intake tho. Thanks for putting the link for the airbox mod, if I can keep my car "stock" and keep my warranty a little longer then that's what i'll do. I love my 2016 GTI.
Considering turbocharged GDI engines and LSPI, I consider a catch can equally as important as a HPFP upgrade. Too many people tune turbo GDI engines like they're tuning port injected engines without thinking of the fact that they're running a turbo gasoline engine with cylinder pressures in many cases higher than a diesel, what that means is the oil mist itself ignites before the fuel smashing pistons and ring lands to pieces. So often I see a turbo GDI engine on the dyno, with masses of boost and timing, let off one last huge rattle, and dump it's guts all over the dyno. Furthermore, LSPI cannot be predicted and controlled using knock sensors and you don't even need to be pushing the engine hard to experience it's devistating effects. Do not touch the tune of a turbo GDI engine without fitting something better than the factory plastic oil/air separator that in most cases struggles on a stock tune to control oil vapour in the intake system.
Good insights. Standard PVC certainly has it's limits. Newer revisions seem to work better. There are lots of people running stage 1 and 2 without any excessive blow-by. For track use it's a must-have.
@@trackhackau it's not so much excessive blowby that's the issue, some combustion pressure is going to make its way past the rings, especially considering a GDI turbo engine running a high static CR with high boost from factory. The need for a catch can is to seperate the oil mist from the crankcase gases as effectively as possible in order to limit intake carbon buildup and, more importantly, reduce the engine destroying onset of LSPI. Most factory oil/air separators are pretty ordinary plastic components that are really just a bit of an oil maze working on the principal that the manufacturer hopes the oil mist will condense and become trapped in the maze as opposed to making its way up into the intake system. The problem is that the factory oil air separator is too close to the hot engine for this to happen - As a result oil mist makes its way into the intake, increasing the chances of LSPI and engine destruction.
And to piggyback Matthew, the carbon build up causes power loss and contributes to the ring issues and oil consumption many have challenges with. I only know this for US direct injection motors, I hear the port injection motors don't suffer as much from this but we don't have those here unless you order the set up from Europe.
Good video. As others have said, really all you need is a downpipe and a tune and you can make an immense amount more power than stock. I'm very likely going to buy the BMS intake purely for the sound, but next mods being the JB4 and a downpipe. Haven't decided what downpipe yet. Heard good things about MAPerformance but I haven't done any real comparisons yet.
I enjoy the IE downpipe and tune personally for my 2019. Ie is hi flow catted which is nice as this is my daily. Tune is good and just stage 2 makes the car feel powerful as it should be. It keeps the smooth and graceful feel of a vw/audi but really picks up the horses. Rough and crazy is for my other car lol
It's true, tune and Downpipe, and Intercooler are the only real things you need. 90% of the mods I got for my car I only got because I was bored and wanted to wrench. But who knows, maybe all those little mods will add up, and if not, it was worth the money for a fun weekend with a few beers and good friends hanging out in the garage, tinkering away. Another great thing for driver engagement are the Motor Mounts, you probably don't need em at 320whp, but who cares (:
Couldn't agree more. I think as a total package they all add up. The idea here was to say that on their own they aren't going to add performance. They are great tinkering mods though and low cost. Motor mounts are on the cars. I really dislike the general drivetrain slop.
These motors in the US, especially Mk6 and ep8 A3 are direct injection motors(not port injection)and they suffer from carbon build up due to the PCV system so the catch can is a good solution to avoid a carbon clean every 20-30k even with good gas and fluids. Europe and probably elsewhere have port injection systems and have less carbon build up, but VW sends the US lesser variants.
Your comments are fully correct. I can imagine that North Americans would feel short changed, but you have to realize that the GTI in Europe is almost twice the price of the US model..
The one I mostly disagree with is the catch can. I have seen the residue that the pcv valve sends back through to make a mess out of the plumbing and intercooler. I would be surprised if the elbow didn't get air flowing easier since it is substantially bigger in diameter compared to stock. Good effort to help others with controlling the spending on cosmetics vs performance upgrades.
I agree. Having a 2016 GTI with pretty much all the mods I'd say beyond a tune/piggyback and DP the cost per HP starts to get ugly, and harder to justify. Now that's IMO. So with my R, I'm not putting those mods on it. I'd love to see a Revo intake in the R's engine bay, but that $815US price tag....OUCH.
I think a cai is about the biggest waste of money, anywhere from $250-$400 for these cars or the Audi a4. They dont offer any reliable proven hp gains and most people get it for the extra turbo "swooosh" sound. I paid $170 for a afe drop in pro dry filter, turbo inlet and muffler delete and it most likely achieves better breathability and air flow to my turbo than if I just bought a cai without these parts.
I have a polo 6c gti 1.8tsi ea888 gen 3...after removing only the middler silencer in the exhuast i definitely felt a power increase and the car revved up quicker can only imagine what a full cat back exhaust would feel like so i would say you are wrong on that one. Cat back exhausts also have been proven to gain 20-30hp alone
@@trackhackau definitely possible to get good power with only a downpipe being the only exhuast modification but if you are getting 450hp with the stock cat back you can definitely get atleast another 20-30hp more by fitting an aftermarket exhaust system
Cat back might give 5 to 10 horses, especially at the top end. Sports cat downpipe (instead of stock ceramic cat) yields 15 to 20 horses. I know for sure becos I did these mods and measured before and after on the dyno
I put a cat back with a magnaflow muffler on my golf 1.8t, all 3 inch pipe mated to stock downpipe and its got a good sound and i definitely gained 20 hp
The aftermarket turbo inlet is bigger and smoother = more air then stock not sure about the muffler delete but the one I seen is a tiny bit bigger then the stock piece, again more air.. I don't understand why wouldn't that make the car more efficient? Please explain how more air don't increase some sort of performance and/or efficiency...
But isn't the point of the catch can to prevent coking of the intake valves? It's going to be a fine mist that will build up over time. Not too noticeable in the piping until you take the manifold off.
The main reason of a catch can is to prevent issues on the track? I thought it was like a preventative thing to slow down the carbon build up on valves so it's primarily only the exhaust carbon buildup on valves instead of that and the oil vapours as well? I'm new to this direct injection thing so I'm learning. Multisport would be key but I think the only way to clean valves on these is walnut blasting or meth/water injection at the manifold.
@@roblackey4352 You are correct for US spec 2.0t motors but Europe and elsewhere get port injection and the build up issue is negligible. I have a A3 8p sportback and the first things I did were, a Graf metal water pump, A8 coils,RS7 plugs, a Carbon clean and new PCV system. I will be getting a catch can because I don't want to do carbon clean every 20-30k.
Everything said is this video is false except the airbox. I don’t know who you are but fooling ppl seams to be your thing. EA888 is restricted in this mentioned point on purpose. So I recommend everyone, in opposite to you, to drill holes for direct air into the airbox, remove the snow catcher, KEEP the OEM air filter, change the charge pipe, change the inlet pipe (elbow) change the exhaust muffler, and then a full turbo back or cat back system, THIS do a lot for the breathing of your turbo with or without tune. I de-tuned mine from stage 1 after I changed this mods since the car is breathing better and don’t really needed the tune and to save the IS38 turbo which is crap.
Im all for driver enhancement and could say hell to performance unless it produces greater chance of engine failure. Would rather go tiny bit slower and sound better than go faster. Great video though
Driver engagement certainly has it's place and I'm all for it. If it puts a smile on your face then it's worth every cent. (but that's not what the video was about) ;)
No offence or trolling but you have not got a clue. The turbo elbow gave me a extra 10bhp and if I can get 10bhp more for 100 pounds then I will. And if u say the air box flows the same it will only flow the same till you map the new air box in
Yeah there is some decent data out there now to show there are some small gains with an elbow. Some are better than others though. When you are trying to get every little bit out of the car, for sure. Airbox I still don't believe in. 90% for looks/sound, which has it's place.
@@trackhackau yea bud as I say iam not trolling just speaking from experience. The r600 intake with the correct elbow and hose will flow miles better and when mapped in can see gains of anything from 6 to 10 hp. I agree that alot of intakes are total myth heat soak rubbish. But say for example EVENTURI. no I know for a fact as I put one on my CtR fk8 and gains in torque and hp was impressive. I would say open filters your just asking for heat soak issues but a right good designed ram / scoop type intake system will help.
The one thing I don't like about the DV is that the pressurized air has to rush back out so close to the compressor. I much prefer an atmospheric BOV closer to the throttle for that reason. The sound alone makes it worth it IMO
There is a diffuser for the Mk7s that will lower the co-efficient of drag, and people have reported an increase in fuel economy with it on, so, that just might pay for itself, depending on how much you drive on the highway.
Is the ralle4 not clip in? I thought that was the one I had. That’s what it said on the box anyway. The only thing I don’t like about it is the straps are only 2” and without pads really cut into your shoulders.
