I am doubly amazed! Thank you for producing a diagram. It is very clear, simple and easily replicate. Thanks again for freely sharing such a rare circuit.
Thank you for sharing your precious finding with us. In fact you put a darlington pair or created a darlington pair out of the two transistors, A power transistor TO type could achieve the same results.
I also wanted to let you know that your research is very interesting. I enjoy your projects, and I think they will lead into very useful technology's and consumer products. Thank you very much for all your work and I look forward to hearing from you.
The neat thing about it, is that the "field" is only detected, or felt by the circuit that I can detect, on the inside of the pipe. I did an experiment where I made a paper "pipe" and then coiled a single layer of 22 Ga. insulated wire around it leaving about 4-6" tail at each end. Then removed the brass pipe and replaced it with the wire "pipe" It was very weak and just barely lit any LED's. So in my opinion, a thicker pipe is better than thin.
i saw your comment in the forum. Nice video here. You mention on the forum about the field or energy being on the "inside" of the ferrite cores,,the ferrite cores control the filed "inwards"? ,hmmm, interesting. This comment stuck in my head, because i like to manipulate fields! :-)
Its a nice demo... the transistor setup sorta looks like a Darlington array. Would you be willing to show an analog ammeter in series with the battery source with the single transistor being used verus the double transistor being used so that you can qualify if the increase in output to the LED's is due to an increase in current being consumed from the AA battery?
I was wondering if this joule thief concept could be used for anything other than lighting? I always thought resisters were a very wasteful way of regulating power. What if you could use a joule thief, and divert power back to a storage capacitor and pump the correct voltage and amps to the desired electrical component. I think diverting power back to storage and not wasting it with resisters would vastly reduce power use.
That would be nice, but I'm not quite so sure you could ever to get it to work that way. The problem I see here is, where you have high voltage, your going to have low amps. Industry says that it takes 3v at .03ma to light a given LED. But, you can light it with a whole lot less power, you just have to juggle the volt/amp ratio, which is basically what the transistor does. Builds the voltage and lowers the amperage "consumption" allowing you to light many LED's where otherwise the same battery will not normally even light one LED.
Hi! Where and which led you buying ? Do you have specifications? Voltage and amp consumption of one led! Because I'm not sure which I should buy to replicate your truly amazing circuit. :) regards
To start with T2 could be replaced with a diode and the resistor on the base of T1 is doing nothing at all. The ferrite cores with a wire through them is just an induction coil and you could just loop a few turns of wire through one ferrite core and do the same thing or just wrap a few turns of wire around the transformer to power the LEDs. Back in 1974 in built what is now called a "Joule thief " powered by four solar cells,it produced around 120 volts that would make a neon pilot light flash.
Thanks for posting. Great work and very interesting circuit. I tried to replicate the circuit but couldn't get it to work:( . I tried a few different coil types but without success. My best guess would be that the coil specifications are critical to get it working. Would appriciate if you could specify the wire gauge and windings. Thanks again.
Perhaps, but if you remove that resistor the first transistor immediately gets hot. Remove the 2nd transistor and the LED's get allot dimmer. So the addition of the 2nd transistor boosts the power to the LED's. I don't know how it does this, but it does. I experimented with that "ferrite transformer", and coiled wire around it. There is no apparent power on the outside of this ferrite transformer, it's all directed inward from what I can see.
Yep, that's what a Darlington array is used for...(tho usually its a transistor that uses a small current to a transistor that passes a large current in the Darlington array, instead of both the transistors being the same,) that lets you use a smaller signal to control a larger Current. I would think if you measured the current from the AA battery you'd note an increase in consumption using the 2 transistors versus the single transistor. Given the transistors are the same, I'd kinda expect you to see a doubling in the current being drawn with the two transistors being used versus the single transistor.
So what do you think it would take to illuminate 5 10mm LEDs? I am trying to build a small joule theif that will run them for days, with a 3.7 volt lithium cell. Is the most critical part the inductor value?
I see, I think. So, when you are using a transistor, you are adjusting your volt/amp ratio to get the correct power. Is it possible to have resisters and transistor's that are more efficient and don't generate a lot of waste heat, or is that just part of the process and is unavoidable?
Yes, all transistors are not created equal. Where one will work another will not. Adding a resistor and/or capacitor can help you "fine tune" a circuit. But in the case of a heating problem it's better to identify the problem first and correct it. Example: I had one tank circuit where the transistor heated up, I added the correct amount of resistance to the circuit and brought the transistor under control (and had less power) but then the coil heated. I modified the coil and/or wiring within the circuit and now both run cool to the touch, I have extra power now and no resistor is needed within the circuit (yet). I have another circuit where a 2N3055 transistor is typically used. But it kept popping due to heating. A little research latter and we identified a better choice: 2N6487G transistor. Difference beyond comparrison. Like a 4 cylinder car with too small of a radiator and sticky brakes verses a V8 engine with an extra large radiator.
Also, I was wondering. When you light up a bunch of lights with a small amount of energy, you are not creating any extra energy, but just tweaking it. How dose this work, and why dose it work? Could this work for more sensitive components and motors?
I don't believe your creating any "extra" energy, your just using what little energy you have in a more economical way, much as one car can get 50 miles per gallon of gas where the older one only gets 10, and they both can go 65 mile per hour. The world system has been built upon "consumption" because thats where the buck is.
capindres exactly,No one has any idea how much energy is actually "in" the circuit.Using things like BiT transformers and jewel thieves and bedini chargers in our electronics could reduce our energy consumption by 90%. Batteries would last months and months, instead of hours. Some one can show a circuit on here that allows you to power 8v worth of LED's with a dead aaa battery. And people scream, "nothing unique about this, the circuit is just doing blah blah" But if people can't see the benefit of an ultra bright flashlight that runs on DEAD batteries than theres no help for them.
Nice work! This essential device (the ferrite with a split tube and wire or nail through the middle) was shown a couple years ago by some Russian guy IIRC. I built the setup with a split copper tube and it's amazing to see it work. Are your brass (or copper?) tubes split on one side? I don't recall you mentioning that but as I understand it that's needed for this part of the device to work correctly as Larsko shows where you get power from the screwdriver or nail. Also you need to solder wires on the split tube so one is on one side of the split and one is on the other side of the split. Is that how yours is made? Thanks again for sharing and the excellent schematic.
I purchased like 500 of the 5mm leds off ebay, made in china. Cheap cheap, 3.v volts and I believe .03ma but not exactly sure as I can't find the parer work from when I ordered them
Wow, you sound like a custom car builder. In fact, that is what you are doing. Learning how to soup up performance along with reducing power consumption. I was wondering if this joule thief could charge batteries more efficiently? I have some plans for a battery desulfation recharger, but im not sure its what im looking for. I plan on putting a solar collection system in my house with alum batteries. I would like a system of putting the energy collected, "from the solar collecters," more efficiently in to the batteries. More power into the batteries less solar collecters needed, "they are expensive!" I know a good amount of energy is lost converting electrical energy into chemical energy storage inside the battery. I hear alum batteries are better at doing this than lead acid. Any insight on how a jewel thief circuit might help with solar project?
About 5' of bifilar (2-wires) was all that I could get on these small ring magnets. Originally there was a smaller ferrite ring sandwiched between the the magnets but it broke when a Ni42 magnet grand slammed the coil. So now there is some foam in it's place.
I would like to see you make a triple amazing joule thief! See how many you can hook up before you see a decrease. Also, are you using up your battery faster? If not, then I would like to see you recharge a battery and see how efficent your system is. measure the power loss transferring power back and forth. Thank you very much for the info! I will use this if it will help recharging batterys, solar panels are expensive!
I'd have to go find my notes, but it seems like I remember calculating that this circuit would run for about 4 hours before some of the LED's started going out. As far as a triple circuit, I believe I did try adding a third transistor with no success.
Come on man I dont have a 3906 transistor only the common 2222222222222 one you all know the one dont play games with me man give me what I want or I will so give you a thumbs downy browny
