This Simple Trick Turns Old CFL Lamps Into Awesome Induction Heaters 

Based on your experience, could you recommend what lamp size/voltage is needed to be able to increase coil to 2-3 centimeters and to heat steal knife to a red state?

I never thought about using RU-vid Close Captions with auto translation before!!!!!!! I only thought of using CC for when it was hard for me to follow a video's audio. You have opened a ton of useful videos on subjects that I am interested in. It was because I never learned to speak any other language (including my own country's second language), that I can't follow any projects that are not voiced in English. The fault is my own, but at age 64, it is too late for me to learn anything else, so thank you from the bottom of my heart.

kesinlikle kardeşim destek için teşekkür ederim

andrzej nie durej

señor fuentes usted solo hágalo haga las conexiones como las hacen en el vídeo y después conecte si le funciona bueno y si no pues no pasa nada no va a causar un incendio ni nada por el estilo pero el circuito si funciona ya sea a 120 o 240

TERMOSTAT

@@hayrullahtelli1179 " thankyou "

so it worked when you tryed this?

That's what I thought. I wanted to heat enough metal to forge Damascus steel knives.

Согласен. Бестолковая игрушка.

Что ты хотел, это же индус)

@@user-co8un6lx3t Зафир Юлдуз турок. А у вас какие-то рассовые или национальные предрассудки, к представителям полуострова Индостан ?

@@Areandr Турок, да какая разница) когда код кривой говорят что его индусы писали (за чашку риса или типо того) цель интереса? Хотите иметь мнение о моих соплеменниках?

No te lo recomiendo, no sé si ya lo has hecho. Lo digo porque, al usarlo con plástico, parte del plástico quedará pegado al metal. Como tienes que meter la barra metálica en el espiral de cobre para calentarlo, acabará pegándose parte del plástico al espiral, y se te terminará estropeando el invento. Yo usaría fuego.

Для пластика индукционный способ практически не работает. Но, если создать конденсатор, и помещать пластик меж обкладок, то работать уже будет. Пластик не всякий правда, а с большой молекулой... Типа полистирола. А с полиэтиленом будет шайзе.

@@Hyzerwyzer DO you have plans fella ?? Would make a nice video for sure.

Можно ли использовать катёл вместо газа для отопления дома?Заранее спасибо за ответ

Hola. Entiendo que pretendes hacer un cautin, ¿Correcto?. Déjame avisarte de algo. Si te das cuenta, en el video la bobina inductiva se mantiene todo el tiempo quieta, inmóvil. Yo tengo tres cautin, desde uno que va a 12v y puedo usar en el coche hasta otro antiguo de gran potencia que es como una pistola con gatillo, para usarlos siempre los estoy moviendo, porque vas de un cable o componente a otro, sueldas un punto, otro... Tendrías que montar todo el sistema de manera que todo fuera móvil, no solo la barra incandescente. Además, la idea es que la barra quede en el centro, que no toque la espiral de cobre, y no parece funcional para un cautin. Haz lo que gustes, solo es un consejo. Saludos

Post your link...wanna see your project bro

Yo también quiero verlo

No need really. Just lay a thin bit of fire blanket on the bottom half of the coil. That way you can put the piece down. Just be mindful of the "ceiling" when moving the metal into or, more so, out of, the field.

На настоящей индукционной печи ставится схема согласовательного трансформатора. На любительских схемах такого нет... Ну будет сноп искр и незабываемые приключения...

thx my frend

Hayır güç düşük isitmaz

Selamun aleyiküm. Bu devre 22 w lık devredir. Sadece,bu yöntem ile, daha değişik ısıtıcılar yapılabilir.zafer kardeşe çok teşekkür ediyorum.

Probably not. The industrial versions of this device only work on ferrous metal so a copper soldering “iron” tip or the lead/tin solder itself won’t be heated. Far easier to buy a cheap soldering iron designed for the job

It heat metals by magnetic induction... If you need another type just do some big resistor.

@@mudzanin9986 it means We’ll literally have to have a piece of metal insert in the center of the coil to generate the heat ?

Just take what he has there and stretch the coil out a little more, put it in a pop can with some holes in it and blow air through the popcan with a little fan. If you have an old burnt out blow dryer you could take some of that element wire and put it in the place of the coil he has here. I always save blow dryers when they quit for the parts and usually it is Nichrome wire. Having that drill bit in there when it gets glowing good will make things even warmer. If you set up a couple more of these in parallel you can reduce the amount of windings you put on the transformer and reduce the amount of heat it puts out by switching back and forth to the ones with less windings on the output coils and you could call it a Mesa Boogie triple rectifier space heater ....

@@sailingcapedissappointment2012 I would like to make an induction heater like this and use it to heat up some 3/4" bolts that are rusted into the frame of my vehicle. Do you have a suggestion on what I should use to make this? Thank you

@@agold3765 If you can find a length of Romex that diameter wire should work well for that if you can get a transformer out of a microwave with choke or large diode to keep the heat off of the transformer. The problem with heating the bolts up though is that they will expand, I.E. increase in diameter and there will be no moving them. If you use any heat it would have be on the frame at the hole they are inside of and then you can only put the heat in one place so that the hole will open up like a C otherwise the metal at the hole will just swell in size making the hole smaller. If you have any nitric acid you can uniformly reduce the size of a steel bolt and there won't be any rust left either as long as you passivate it quick enough. Dont breathe any of the fumes from the amber colored cloud though. I have made a steel bolt about that size disappear with Nitric acid and it didn't take very long. You might be able to mask the metal that you don't want affected by the acid with Nickel Never Seize, it is very acid resistant and sticky. Areokroil works well WD40 does nothing. Marvel mystery oil is good, A rattle gun might work if you haven't tried that, don't use twelve point sockets if you haven't already rounded the head off, use a six point socket or box wrench.

Yes, and the fact that he put the active (brown wire) on the boards neutral and not on the line fuse, means the circuit is always HOT! even if the the fuse were to blow, and thats unlikely without earth (N/A in this application ) and out of phase! But we're probably being pick... CONSIDERING IT'S AN UNBOXED LIVE DEATH-TRAP ANYWAY. LOL

@@mrgoodman6620 it is a European plug bro, The plug is equilateral so we can insert such plug in any orientation in the outlet meaning there is no difference in how the blue and brown is connected in the end so the phase could end up on any wire. That is why appliances here must have proper design to have this in mind to be safe, AKA have the whole live circuit encased as it was inside the bulb. But it won´t change the fact that this circuit is a deathtrap without proper isolation and especially the winding on the transformer.

​@@mrgoodman6620 😂😂😂😂 hey with the life expectancy of the YOLO(you only live once) crowd this was designed jus for them. Enjoy the shocking revelation 😂😂😂

@@Pulverrostmannen Yeah on small appliances phase is not that important. But when it has an earth it's critical, so corect wiring should be practiced always. People don't think it matters when putting the ends on an extension cord but that can be deadly. ... but look what were talking about. A virtual desktop anti personnel mine! Lol

@@mrgoodman6620 it is the same on every single corded appliance we have here. Be it a microwave, water boiler, mixer, toaster, TV, computer or anything in between they can still all be reversed in our outlets, the law still applies to all of these as well that they need to have approved insulation for electric shocks. It is only when you come to our 400volt appliances the connections are more fixed. Then the neutral and earth always are the same but the phases might in some cases be flipped to match a motor rotation etc. But in general, as if you for example would lose your neutral in your appliance that side of your device would become hot too as nothing gonna drain the voltage low. In respect to ground your hot wire is both positive and negative in that regard to the neutral one meaning that neutral gonna have a high voltage potential in regards to the hot wire anyway. AC voltages are a bit special when it comes to maximize safety. That is why you need your extra ground in case the neutral wire fails and make your whole device having a hot potential no matter how it was connected in the outlet.

Thanks my Frend