From my own experience i know how hard it is, to build a machine capable of doing this. You guys did absolutely fantastic. The leveling and the balance of the tools is impressive.
@Esteban Rodríquez That's right, Esteban, nobody "loves" to solder, they lie if they say they do. I finally learned to live with it. For me, painting the joint with liquid flux first made my life a whole lot easier. I also paint the soldering iron tip with flux before I turn it on.
@Ron Garza not sure if you’re joking or not, but there are certainly people that enjoy soldering...I know because I’m one of them. And no I’m not lying haha
To answer some of the questions below. Sonia have had this machine for over a year now. It is an amazing price of kit and extremely well made. Isolation milling can take e quite some time and as does the probing of the PCB surface prior to milling. This machine can mill a small PCB in about 3 hours if you include the probe and mill operation. Also make sure that you have the correct isolation routing bits for the job. Also weave a small syringe of mineral oil to cot the PCB surface with prior to milling, it makes a big difference to the quality of the cut. With respect to milling the outside profile of the PCB, if the PCB is square or rectangular then far better to use a PCB Guillotine to cut the board. So for a slightly higher volume of birds, day 10 or more, I use this machine to drill all the holes in Microtrak pre-sensitised PCB board and then expose and etch in the usual way. This machine is very precise and accurate however use as intended for very small prototype runs and either use conventional etching or JLCPCB in China for more than say 20 boards. This is an outstanding machine for its intended purpose. I am about to test this out to do some M2 thread milling in aluminium and sure it will be fine.
This would be a great machine for RF engineers - they could tinker with circuit layouts without the wait for regular PCB turnaround times - most of their stuff is 2-sided at the most!
The main problem - non flat surface of board, bended material. Conical mill will produce different cut diameter on different parts of surface. Probably maximum width x height - 6 x 9 cm.
KV, I stick my PCB down to a sacrificial base that screw down to the machine bed. I use very thin double sided tape from Amazon. This keeps the whole copper board flat and then the electrical probing performs a contour map of the surface and the isolation routing is spot on. Using a this flat bladed screw driver and gradual bending force will prise the board from the base, Acetone will clean up both the back side of the PCB and the base as well.
Reminds me of a Bungard I once used, nice little desktop for prototyping. I don't miss the extraction via a vacuum cleaner! Nice work here. This offers a great way to access PCB fabrication without the cost of photo mechanical processing.
You guys should work on ink-jetting the copper layer onto fiberglass instead of trying to CNC material off the board, CNC has been done thousands of times by others and has yet to really work. If you could work out the chemistry of depositing metal you’d have a winner that could be done with a $25 ink jet print head and have 100 times the resolution of CNC.
Just an addition to your idea , just like through hole plating if you could come up with a method which inkjet prints something which could later be copper plated .......
It is beautiful... From practical point of view. It would ve amazing if you can show, how the components are soldered onto it. I mean the melted tin just flow everywhere as there is no protective layer on that board. Even if using paste and heat gun
Peter, after the isolation and drilling process you clean the board and apply solder resist. One dry you use the an engraving bit and this mills through the solder resist to expose the component pads only. The rest of the board is protected by the resist. Hopefully this makes sense.
Lo mejor en cnc pcb .,precision, calidad y elegancia el arte de elaboar circuito impreso ...te estoy esperndo casi dos años pero ya, con Dios mediantes ..te tengo en este mes.
Музыка оскомину набила! Северный проект под неё пургу гонит)) Честно говоря здесь она более уместна)), но можно и без неё, удовольствия от этого меньше не станет!
@KOMODOR I have a 3020 and while I have made good PCBs from it, it's no where near the quality of this thing. For example, the runout of the spindle is 0.1mm so good luck getting those same traces as in the video
Very slow production rate, etching makes finer trace and space, and you often cannot leave so much unconnected conductive material. Cool capability though.
I mean it's about rapid prototyping man. We have one in our lab (not this companies) its made by LPKF they are exceptionally capable. Even have plate thru hole capability, it's not done the way shown here tho. Sometimes sending out for PCB fabrication also means exposing what you're working on...
Why? Soldering a board like this is quite easy, even for a beginner. There's lots of great tutorials on how to solder a board like this here on RU-vid.
Have you ever actually hand-soldered a chip with 0.1mm spacing between pads? First-off it is not easy, second - it is almost impossible to do with simple home soldering irons. Third - this board doesn't have solder mask Fourth - this board has very small spacing between traces. Combine that with third - and you get a lot of unwanted bridges between traces - which you will have to clean off - welcome to hell. Even if you will solder every single trace and every single pad and clean all the bridges- you still have to pray that you do not have any bridges underneath the chips. Because if you do - you will know that only once the board starts and doesn't work for unknown reason. Everything looks nice on youtube video, but try it out yourself to see.
@@marc_frank and when and where did he ever told that he did not ever create anything like hell or is going to create or allow it to be created? Don't be too full of yourself and put words in the mouth of the God that he never spoke. There is hell on earth, and there is hell besides earth.
Hi John, it is not too noisy, you can work in a room at the same time. The PCB probe of the copper clad board takes up to 40 minutes and then you can load the nc code to start milling. It gets noisy once you start to mill the board edges. During the isolation routing I like to keep an eye on things every 10 minutes to add a few drops of mineral oil to the copper surface as this greatly improves the cut and final finish.
за огромные бабки - предлагается абсолютно ненужный аппарат.. но подано красиво :))) Хотя конечно же за такие деньги можно два вагона плат заказать в китае...
@@TheMirclub _Дешевле заказать качествннные платы, уже с распайкой смд_ Вы видимо невнимательно прочли моё сообщение.. там же написано ровно тоже самое..: prnt.sc/lsxfyn
1. Не верные обороты резца. 2. Не верна скорость подачи. 3. Такой ровный текстолит не найти в моей стране. 4. Выбирать остальную медь запаришься, травление лучше (по скрости). 5. Ну и скорость соответственно, одну плату повесишься ждать. Никто не спорит за качество и красоту, но смысла в этом мало, не целесобразно. Говорю как чпушник и радиоинженер.
@@bato1903 на таких оборотах, с такой нагрузкой, перегреет и сломает кончик - там не 24 000об/мин)) угловая скорость реза на диаметре 0,1 мм, деббил!))- радиогубитель)) ты чпу только на картинке видел, по всей видимости?) Понаберут клоунов по объявлению..)
I am very happy when I compare this to my method of PCB making . One useful information in this video that is revit used to connect the top layer and bottom layer
Better hope your material is perfectly flat, which of course it won’t be, unless your paying an absolute fortune for extremely high quality PCB blanks. Seems only very expensive laser machines actually work reliably without hours of hassle at this point. In the end, it’s still going to be cheaper, and far far higher quality just getting a board house to use their millions of dollars worth of equipment to build them for you. Very neat concept that unfortunately still needs huge amounts of further design work to be practical, such as having sensors for dealing with less than perfect material stock and bit wear, professional machines use cameras for visual inspection and probing to overcome this. Rivets to join layers have been around for decades and sorta work for repairs if you only have one or two, on a board with lots of them you’ll have to solder them or you’ll have intermittent connection problems. So you might as well just run a jumper wire and solder that.
Фреза конечно суперская, да и повторяемость у станка офигенная, НО паять потом такую плату сущее проклятие( сам фрезирую пилотные платы на собственно ручной построенном и собранном станке китайским спиральным гравером с пяткой 0.2 паяю потом под микроскопом и все равно при пайке переодически под каким нибудь контактом повиснет сопля на оставшуюся маску). Сразу скажу паяльник это мой хлеб ибо по образованию монтажник РЭА и работаю в этой сфере с 2001 года.
@@Vootshi ну учитывая что у меня платы пилотные я вобще просто по старинке припаиваю переходы, а уже в заказанных платах просто ставлю металлизацию. Да и судя по видео маска этим платам не светит 😁.
Аналогичная ситуация, причем не всегда эту соплю и видно. Выход только убирать весь полигон но придется разводить земли... 2 раза фрезеровал платы, сейчас просто по несколько раз из Китая заказываю, так проще....
Андрей! А что за гравёры вы используете для плат, как их искать? Взял как-то на али целый наборчик спиральных гравёров, а они вообще не работают... видимо не для плат предназначены (?)
@@Vik_ru охх эти китайцы - такие китайцы, граверы беру у нас в Украине, интернет магазин родом из Белой Церкви будет интересно отпишу название. Гравер брал с пятаком 0.2 , угол 40 градусов, по цене порядка 5ти долларов за единицу. Работает вполне сносно , по вращению биений не видно да и медь снимает без ежей при встречной подаче. По параметрам задаю скорость врезания 50 мм в минуту , подача 450 мм в минуту. Заглубление от 0.04 до 0.07 ( в зависимости от текстолита) и да чуть не забыл - автоуровень не использую, слишком неоднозначно сканируется кривизна, просто сровнял жертвенный стол. Дорожки 0.25 с зазором 0.2 проходит вполне прилично - перерезанных нет. Но блин паять это то ещё приключение - после каждой детали все дорожки проверяю на замыкание на маску.
Arrgh! Cutting out the board BEFORE milling the reverse side!?!?! What a bone-headed move! Mill both sides, then cut out the board-outlines as a final step.
I love your videos; so very well shot and they do a great job showcasing your equipment. I show them to all the students that work in my lab space (I run an engineering PCB fab lab at a US University and show your videos on a 70" TV, its mesmerizing), they love them too. Fantastic job! If possible, can you share whether your camera equipment is mounted to your CNC or are if you shoot video using standard equipment(DSLR/mirrorless etc) and a zoom lens? I have been using usb webcams to try and show students the process of fabricating PCBs (remote learning) but the quality is atrocious; It would be great to know if you have found an equipment-mountable camera that makes this kind of quality content.
They probably did it with a good camera and narrow angle lens, as the wegstr cnc moves the bed on X and Y axis while the Z axis with the tool stays still, except moving up and down.
