Wow, there's some solid gold content in some of these old videos. That's some serious skill grading such a steep slope with what effectively has an uphill curve. I wonder how old Chris was in 2011? At the risk of offending him, I'll guess early twenties. That's impressive.
his berm is perfect gradeing aint easy i dont care the slope look the blade material is just running off,fine work there mister,young cat too im 39 been in the operators union most my life family owned buisness were pipe layers, we do all excavation work i think ol boys got what it takes hell better than me!!
I found it a lil easy to operate my trainer to me that out of the 300 hundred or so he trained 3 of us can meet the expectations did some sloping, fine grading, making a bush garage like a foundation, and a road, it was fun, did my training march2014 still cant find work not too many employers looking for green horns but i say am pretty good at it i love still waiting for a chance to prove my new skills
y'all can talk a big game, but jump on a dozer and see how well you do. I can attest to the fact thats its f$%ing hard to pull off that sort of job without messing up. Bunch of armchair operators.
@@DonaldJPump24 Funny I was just grading a 2:1 last week on a D5. Still slid a lot because it was all rock but it definitely the right tool for the job.
I worked with some crazy ass dozer hand who cut a 1 1/2:1 slope with a D6. He windrowed material to the toe of the slope to keep himself from tipping over.
That looks like more than a 26° to me, which is 2:1 I'd say closer to 35°. Most small dozers start to slide slip at about 40°... on compacted surfaces of course.
@@WoodCutr1 No way. It is 2 horizontal to 1 vertical (27 degree slope) as the OP indicated. You are saying 1 horizontal to 2 vertical (a 0.5:1 slope) which would be 63-degree slope and not possible to grade like this. It looks maybe a little steeper than 2:1, but it could be the camera angle.
How much grade can a dozer take before it will turn over sideways? I run a D10 and have always sloped up/down because I know I’m safest with the tracks up and down. Had a buddy flip a dozer sideways and broke a couple of ribs..Said he finally found how steep you can be sideways before it flips…I don’t want to find out like he did. Lol
2:1 is about 48-50% and it starts sliding a little in the D6N without some windrow holding you on, cut at angles up or down. Unless a big enough cut to hold you on. If that makes sense
i just started training this week on a d5 dozer and omg i cannot get it level for the life of me. everytime i go over my previous pass dirt keep coming out the side of my blade and it just keep filling back in the pass i had already done before even with my blade tilted to the side it still works its way out the side of the blade i dont want it to.. ughh i can agree no one can talk shit until they actually operate one for the first time. Looks are not everything. It is so much harder then you would think.
+guitarman0365 Smaller bites and turn blade the other way you dont always have to push a big old pile with it, clip the corners about three feet into your blade and keep doing that and the grade it out
I'd have to agree, it's harder then it looks, been doing it for 25 years now and still learning, as creeper89 says take smaller bites and don't panic, try not to over react when it starts to bite by grabbing a whole lot of lever, it's all about being smooth. D5's are very short and do bite a bit and harder to operate the some of the bigger stuff.
Tracie Delano Actually We're very relaxed,but you will get a Very sore hip from leaning on side slopes. Most of the older machines are all steel inside, that one has some padding.
I think he’s working from the top down so he can keep the bottom side of the blade a bit higher, making what he’s tracking on, be not quite as steep. I’d think if you did that from the bottom, you’d have to dig into what’s above, and make your next pass too steep. But I’ve only sloped up/down. So I can’t say for sure
Experienced dozer hands don't back drag anything. The blade is meant for pushing forward. The only time you really should back drag is if you have to pull material away from an area and have no other means of doing so. Some people try to back drag finish work but will be made fun of. If you do back drag make sure it's a little bit of material it's not heavy material and probably float the blade.
Unless grading is stated opposite, that is a 1 to 2 slope (rise over run). I’m trying to find a video for a 66 degree slope and can’t. Only find 1 to 2 at 26 degrees and 2 to 1 at 26 degrees. Come on people let’s be consistent.
