Urine, Uric Acid, great fungal food it seems, compost piles seem to love it, mycology seems to love it when hardwood bark mulch is sprayed with it, breakdown is super rapid, days and weeks instead of months. Thanks for your knowledge Dr. Elaine
it’s very alarming sort of situation coz research like Dr Ellains’s never get the international fame, it’s so powerful what she says, could change the farming economics in all over the world.
@@mattesmael1986 she has to make money to man. She's got plenty of free information all over the net. Wouldn't you want to support some one like her instead of some one like Bill gates.
so much info very important food for thoughts in an hour, man that is some thing, Thanks Elaine for your work good on you and thanks for the guy who uploaded this, awesome work.
Its frustrating at question time when we can't hear the questions. Suggest you either repeat the question as you did with the first question or give the microphone to the person asking. Still a great presentation. Thanks.
I think she's wonderful, but at this point I think that no matter how much proof she comes up with that her way works, the pharmaceutical-owned government will force a way to discredit her (Bayer-Monsantos).
Least Ingham doesn't have to argue against mother nature and billions of years of life 🤣 Feel bad for those anti earth freaks using all those chemicals
This is all fine and dandy, for a backyard garden, but try this on my 12 section farm growing grains, what works for us is cover cropping during off season or fallowed fields, our secret is at least 6+ different plants, prefer 10 + of which 4 are legumes. Our soil biology's spectrum is amazing just from cover cropping, and very limited tillage. We tried interplanting corn/peas for a forage crop under contract, but the loss of organic matter wasn't a real winner for us.
So I have been memorized by your talks about mico, bacteria, and fungi, and all of the other parts that make great soil. As you probably figured out I'm know nothing about soil. Well, that's not true I do know what good garden soil should look like. I'm just not 100% sure if the steps I'm taking are the right ones. So this past summer as it is now early winter here in Pa. I grow my 1st ever garden behind my garage. and that is when I notice that my dirt did not have that beautiful dark rich color. So I started implementing everything I saw on youtube. Maybe that was the best idea I had as I felt like the blind following other partly blind gardeners because I bought the biggest rototiller I could afford Oh if you know any gardener looking for a rototiller mine is for sale. Then came you WOW. Anyway, the steps I implemented are my bees than my red wiggles that my husband freaking out about. Than my rabbits. Oh and my compost bid. I'm hoping that my 2020 garden is a great susses or I'm going to be hearing my husband telling me (I Told You So). for the rest of my life. MY question to you is does this method of soil work for flowers As half of my garden is going to comprise of flowers or do they need a special type of soil?
So from what i have understood from Elaine Inghams talks is that the soil type does not matter. What matters is that you actually have soil that has bacteria, funghi and other critters in it. Giving your garden some compost will give it the biology. I am not sure but i think that most flowers need more bacteria than funghi in relation.
"by law, in the united states, any seed that is sold has to be treated with fungicide, by law. You cannot buy any seed in the united states unless it's organic. " !!
I just read about a fungal disease called P. cinamomi and I was wondering if throwing a handful of bone meal into our mulch each year might be positive or negative? (I think it is a phospite but I wonder if it would harm the other fungi?) Any information would be appreciated. Go DR, INGRAM- what a service you are providing for the world! Thank you!
Great video, chock full of ideas and grounded information. Too bad about the audio though. Funny how the MC's microphone recording levels are far superior than that of Dr. Ingham. Priorities gone wild.
I'm curious to see the law stating all seeds must be treated with a fungicide before sale. My degree is in Environmental Policy and an organic gardener since 2015 and I can't find any info on this when looking it up. I've seen very few seed packs that state they've been treated
those are the fungi that I work with now. I love that they are telling me to go find fungi strains in the wild. this was the missing link to my horticulture I just needed the confirmation
For food waste composting, could I layer it out on a wide area of ground? I would like to remediate the soil in a large unused plot of land. Following nature in this way, will it biodegrade into useful organic matter for a future large garden?
Can I use sawdust from my sawmill for the 60% woody material? Also When is the best time to make a compost? Spring, summer or fall? How soon can it be used? Thank you
Sawdust is the empty calorie of organic gardening. However if you have it use it. Make compost as materials become available, time of year doesn’t matter. Length composting depends on your materials and method
Two problems with sawdust, it's very fine and has a huge surface area. Use it as part of the mix. Use woodchip to keep the pile aerobic - big gaps. The increased surface area means you can add to much nitrogen rich material to compensate. That said, woodchip behaves as though is it hydrophobic, in the beginning - sawdust is at the other end of that spectrum. You can compost anytime, but I tend to find autumn, winter and spring are helpful months for building fungi within the pile.
I've never understood the fascination with compost tea. Obviously, it starts with the quality of your compost. Makes sense. I think I have a better-than-average understanding of soil science and what constitutes a healthy soil. I understand the principle that you feed the soil and the soil feeds the plant. The disconnect for me is if you have a normally healthy soil and you lay compost on the surface, how can it possibly add value to brewing compost tea? How is it different from simply applying compost to a healthy soil? It just seems like a lot of wasteful effort. I guess sometimes there's some things that one simply is unable to comprehend and I'm at that point - but not to the point of conceding that compost tea is more than marginally beneficial for an average gardener with a normally healthy soil. So I'm searching for some kind of reasonably controlled field trial that could convince of the value. So far, after two years of searching, I haven't found anything. Maybe someone could point me to something?
The "brewing" process allows the microorganism growth to run rampant. So you're applying a much higher density of these organisms. The micro organisms create the chemical conditions which allow the nutrients to become available to the plants
@Carlin Lentz Thanks for the reply and the explanation. I think I understand the theory. But I haven't found any studies in agronomy that show compost tea would produce a measurable benefit to any kind of plant grown in a normally healthy soil. I will admit, however, that there's a ton of anecdotal advice out there saying that it works. Cheers.
A nice mulching layer definitely does not hurt to have. Alfalfa is great for that. Then adding a compost layer in the offseason of growing or a cover crop. But the tea travels directly down into the root system. Pairing this along with your feeding schedule is a great recipe in my opinion. Your organic food such as blood meal etc. are being broken down and taken in by the fungi and bacteria. As those microbes take in the food, you then feed the tea. The tea containing the beneficial microbes join your already present microbiome and begin to eat the bacteria and fungi. Basically boosting the rate at which the nutrients are breaking down into a plant available form. Tea+Nutrients+Mulch Layer+Great Soil Biology= Amazing outcome @@priayief
It's possible but unlikely! The reason a compost pile gets to 130-160 degrees (hot) is to kill off the bad bacteria. Using well-cleaned aeration tanks and equipment minimises any chance.
The only caution with leaves is that they tend to pack down and become anaerobic. An anaerobic compost grows harmful organisms. Wood chips help maintain air spaces in a compost pile without having to turn it frequently - which destroys the beneficial fungi. Yes, worms are highly beneficial to soils and in composting. Dr. Ingham often mentions 'worm compost piles'. This talk is a very brief overview of the topic. 'Teaming with Microbes' is a good book on the topic. Dr. Ingham offers classes, and has other talks posted on RU-vid.
rabbit manure is the best because the pellets are most likely alfalfa which has growth factors for plants plus the natural bacteria and enzymes from the rabbit. it must be composted to release the nutrients to the fungi and kill of any bad bacteria, then you will have excellent compost and to use for tea. Only exception: if your rabbit was sick and was administered antibiotics or the alfalfa source was sprayed with herbicides to kill weeds. Then one will have opened a can of worms.
4:30.. make sure you don't touch your face or any other part of body that bacteria can enter the first couple days of your composting. There are some nasty pathogens in there before the mesophilic stage, like salmonella, botulism, chicarella.. the temps have to rise enough to kill off all bad pathogens, eggs, seeds, etc.
Read Teaming with microbes, it is one of the books Prof Ingham has listed in her book section. If I remember correctly near the end of the book Jeff how to make proper aerated compost. www.soilfoodweb.com/Books.html www.amazon.com/Teaming-Microbes-Organic-Gardeners-Revised/dp/1604691131
You didn't sprayed fireblight, most likely you spread something too concentrated that should only be used as soil fertilizer, as a watering. Meaning that the compost was too high in nitrogen (too much green material, not enough brown material). The leaves were "burned", meaning that leave cells were killed, went necrotic or bursted, and the pathogen that's already present even on healthy leaves was just the gravedigger of tissue that's already dead. Etheir that or the leaves had too much nutrients in one go, trophobiosis (simple sugar and amino-acid clogging) and turgidity (overstretched barriers, the leaves gorged themselves with water) resulted in leaves being easily attacked. Foliar feeding, and really any foliar applications, are especially tricky, because you will most likely mess up the plant physiology rather than fix anything. Dilute the tea in more water if you're not sure, or even better, just use it as a watering, not a spray.
If your tea goes anaerobic it will start to grow bad microorganisms. You can damage your plant like that. Dr. Ingham talked about this many times. Keep the oxygen level above 6ppm all the time during the brew so it remains aerobic...Watch other RU-vid videos to get a better picture and eventualy buy her courses...
