DR650 Replacing Front Wheel Bearings 

Hey Mark great video mate , I reckon all your video,s are awesome .. To answer your question about the spacer shaft Yes it is suppose to be firm up against the middle bearing races of both bearings , this is so when you tighten the axle , the bearings run true between the outer & inner bearing race. If the outer & inner races arn,t running exactly parallel to each other the balls in the bearing will wear out faster... Because it's so important, I'll try to expand on wheel bearing installation a bit. Pay close attention to 'Clearance' shown in both F&R drawings in the service manual. What this means is: the bearing bores in both hubs are shallower than the length of the spacer that goes between the bearings. If you drive both bearings' outer races tight into the hub, you're pulling the outer races too close together because the longer spacer is holding the inner races apart; now the inner and outer races aren't aligned and ball bearings hate that. Now it doesn't matter how long the spacer is or how deep the bearing seats are in the hub (within reason). All we have to do to ensure this alignment is drive the rotor side bearing tight into the hub and then pull the opposite bearing tight to the spacer using 'flat plates' (thick washers & a long bolt) that span both the inner and outer races. This is key, both races must be spanned on both bearings. When the inner race contacts the spacer, it will stop and so will the outer race, leaving the 'Clearance' needed, whatever it may be. I seat the rotor side bearing than install the spacer than punch the non rotor side bearing in until there is about a 2 mm gap before it touches the spacer. Now I put my long bolt with a couple of thick washes that are the same size as the bearing & covering both inner & outer bearing race,, put the bolt through the rotor side bearing that has already been seated & out the non rotor side & put more washers the same size on the bolt between the bearing & nut , now screw the nut down & you will feel the non rotor side bearing being pulled in tighter & stop once it hits the spacer. This way the bearings are seated correctly with zero side tension between the inner & outer bearing race ( the washers need to be 5mm min total thickness so they can,t flex & need to cover both the inner & outer bearing race so the bearings races are pulled in aliment with each other ) Job done

Good vids bud. You convinced me to buy a dr 650 3 years ago. I've got two now and I'm still coming back for maintenance videos. Love from the mountains of Canada.

Hey Mark, great video again mate... good advice with the middle tube, if you beat them in too hard, you actually do the opposite of what you said and end up with the outer ring in too far, and the inner ring poking out under stress.. i go with 'finger tight'.. as long as i can move the middle tube with a finger...(and only just too), then thats tight enough.. if that inner ring is touching the tube, then the wheel nut cant move it any more... Keep on keepin on mate... Del.

I've replaced both of my wheel and cush bearings on my DR with the help of your videos. My front spacer had play just like the rear one

Great message.. myself I don't pack the bearings either.. but I definitely grease the axle and load some grease inside of the assembly.. I'm always going through water and it is definitely a help.. thanks again for your work.. Robert Jr NJ here Asbury Park and the pine barrens XR 650 owner.

I had to go back to this video, because my XR400 needs wheel bearings now, and I couldn't remember how to get them out, and more importantly, which bearing goes down onto the shelf. Well, now I know, so thanks! This is a very, very thorough video, great tutorial.

I wondered if the outer rubber dust seal goes in a certain way because it looks different on one side. One side has a flat appearance and the opposite side has a groove. But after watching this video I watched your other video where you replace the rear wheel bearings and you did mention this little detail on the other video. So after learning this info for myself I just thought I would share it with everyone else who might see this video and also wonder the same thing because i didn't see or hear you touch on that detail in this particular video. But this was your instruction on the video for the rear wheel *(The outer rubber dust seal is installed with the flat side facing outward, and the opposite side that has the groove in it faces inwards towards the new wheel bearing.) I was about to change the wheel bearings on my front wheel ('96 DR350T) and just wanted to confirm the correct way to install the bearings (and the dust seals) so your video was much appreciated, and i have subscribed. Nice job on the video. Thanks.

Great video and excellent job! That contact cleaner you used....around here that stuff is a fortune! Don't waste that awesome stuff. Brake cleaner....2 bucks a can, does a great job.

Hi Mark! Totally enjoyable video again: well done! Here’s a couple of things that might help. To release one of the bearings when they’re tight against the spacer, try using a piece of hose of slightly smaller diameter to the spacer bore. Clamp that between two washers and nuts, fitted to a piece of threaded rod. Slip it into the bore, tighten the nuts to compress the hose against the spacer bore then drive the bearing out enough to give you clearance to use your drift to remove the bearing. (Rubber hydraulic hose works best as you can get more pressure against the spacer.) On the technical side, the slight clearance between the bearing and the spacer allows the bearings to be clamped up firmly on all the inner races with no axial loading. This is done when you tighten the axle (which is why there is only one threaded end on the axle), so you can see a torque wrench for the axle bolt is necessary to achieve correct clamping pressure/clearances. Love watching these vids, keep on keeping on! 👍

Was looking for a video on fitting the front wheel bearings and speedo drive location, I thought , I wonder if Mark has one , hey presto , good stuff , been a great help, cheers.

Thanks for the entertainment Mr Mark 😁.... RU-vid is a great resource for learning about almost anything that you can think of. I've done so many wheel bearings that, like the guy in one of the other comments, I just watch for the entertainment 😃. An FYI for ya: If when the inner spacer is tight, you can just put the drift down almost to the other bearing and whack it sideways (towards the rim) and it will move the spacer enough to catch the edge of the bearing race.

Great video! It's good to see exactly how to do this before actually doing it. When you eventually have to do a top end job on the engine, that should make for a great video too. Last March, I did a top end kit on my DR650 and it was my first time. It was a fun project and I learned a lot!

Another great vid mark I see reboot approved you must be doing it right cheers p.s your very good at this now.

Mark, since you have so many bikes, you should just go invest in a 35 dollar bearing puller. No muss, no fuss and no damaged sockets from beating on them. Love the vids man. Did you buy the DR new?

Excellent vid sir, pause play pause play while doing my bearings. Thanks much and keep em coming.

Don't know why I watch these, I don't have DR650 and I already know how to change bearings, but once I start... LOL.

Work on the principle of put it together the way it came apart, especially from new, a millimetre or 2 clearance is no great drama on the spacer. Best tip when you put the front wheel back in is to spin the wheel and slam on the brake then tighten the axle, that will centralise the wheel. You are getting good at this 👍👍, can't wait till you do the NSU fix. If you do not know that one check out either DR rider website or ADV rider, big worry for some but never looked at mine on either of my DR's, latest one has 160,000 Klms and no problems.

Despite what you say, I managed to put the front wheel spacer on the wrongway and it crushed the dust seal. Hopefully I donthave to replace the whole bearing because I rode like 3,000km like this.

Great Video, Marc. thanks for letting us join you. I figure that the Front left and the rear right bearing are installed first, because the define directly where the break disk [front left, rear right] are placed weithin the break caliper. Do you agree?

I've heard some mechanics say that you shouldn't use Grease or lube when press fitting things like bearings. That it should be as clean and dry as possible. Not an expert either, but it's a thing I've heard.

Using Brass punches, if available, may help with the damage to races.

Great video great accent. Thanxs for sharing

I think the worst case scenario, is if you are doing 110kph and the wheel falls off, only kidding mate, I’m sure it’s all fine, keep on riding 👍

Great video again. Just some info. You could probably get your next set of bearings / seals for the DR or for the other bikes from your local bearing supply store in Bendigo. Probably a lot cheaper too?

Mark, The hell with motorcycles...Give us some more of that awesome broccoli footage! sarc

Tkx man, good vid and infos!

so you have rebuilt the bearings for the swing arm. now you have done your wheel bearings. how is the triple tree (aka steering headset). that takes a lot of stress and over time they need care. I do not remember you doing a video of this.

Hi Mark, you have really inspired me to buy a dr650 through your videos. Just wondering if that is the se model or just the s. Are you running the tyres on stock rims, if so what tyres are they. Thanks, would really appreciate your answer, cheers mate.

very helpfull. thanks again. :]

Hey Mark I dont have the right side speedo stuff (Yenkro fairing) though i noticed when i pulled both dust seal covers for first time one was opposite to the other.... the disc side one having the channeling facing outwards and flat side against bearing? is this right do you know?

Another job done well

Just buy a bearing removal kit 🤦‍♂️