A professional pattern maker demonstrates how to draft a 2 piece sleeve pattern using an armseye sloper. Two piece sleeves are typically used in men's and women's jackets and coats.
Just wonderful. Thank you so much. Your videos have made a big difference. They are the best I have ever come across. Thank you for your generosity and sharing.
I love how you're so concise yet get across so much information about variations. Also, I love that we got to see you at the seam allowances and cuff hem on this one. Thanks so much!
I wanted to tell you that thanks to your video(s) about sleeves, I made my best looking/fitting sleeve yet, and I would not have figured it out from the other tutorials that I was watching before. You obviously know exactly what you're doing and I so appreciate the time you took to share it! Thank you 🙏🙏🙏
You are such a wizard with that ruler! Cant believe you added seam allowances even along the curves so perfectly. Thank you for another simple and easy to follow tutorial. I would love to see how you actually sew the garmnets...or at least how to do collars of diferent types. Perhaps someday you would find the time?
Possibly, but sewing is not my area of expertise. There are many sewing instruction videos out there. You might also look for local sewing classes you can take.
I'm working with a store bought pattern that shows the 2 pieces of sleeves exactly as you demo. My problem is my upper arm needs more room and also the chest/arm area in front pulls because it's tight. How can I adjust the sleeves to fit my upper arm and not have any pull in the chest area?
Sorry for the late reply. You can add width to the upper and under sleeve patterns. This will make the sleeve cap longer, so you'll need to either ease in the excess, or shorten the sleeve cap height to remove the extra length.
Making a tuxedo coat is rather advanced pattern making. I may eventually get around to it. I suggest you get a good pattern drafting book, or take some classes.
Thanks for the video, i like this method but i have a couple questions. I take 2.5 cm out of the back at pitch point on my patterns for suit jackets but, how do i adjust the sleeve pattern to accommodate this adjustment? Do i create a sloper using the altered pattern and then continue with this method or Should i draft a regular sloper before any adjustment and then alter the sleeve afterwards?
Hi Chris, your demo here is the most comprehensive I've seen yet. Starting to draft for clients so very new to made to measure. What are the differences here to a mens jacket sleeve? I work in denim and leather only and seem to always screw up the sleeve shoulder area!
Thanks David. A men's jacket sleeve can be drafted with this method quite well. Try it out. Traditionally a tailor would draft the sleeve using a complex list of formulas. I don't recommend it unless you have more tailoring and drafting experience.
Hi Chris... loving your teaching methods, so much easier. managed to do my first dress. I can't find the arm's eye video... do you have a link? Also can you do a video on how to make pants. thanks.
Perhaps you're searching for the wrong title. It's Drafting Sleeve Sloper, Professional Method. As I've said many times, drafting pants is challenging, even for professionals. You're probably better off starting from an existing pattern, or rubbing off a pattern from a pair of pants that fit you.
Hello, could you tell us all please the ruler and french curve type you use in your lessons. Am I right in thinking not all French curves are the same? Your videos are so inspiring. Thank you.
I use a fairly standard C-Thru ruler, available at most craft and sewing supply stores. The French curve is made by more than one company, but you may have to order one online. It's available alone, or as part of a set. Look for the number "6" shape. It's the one you'll get the most use out of.
Hello Mr. Satorial, Many thanks for excellent teaching. Would you consider a tutorial for 'inward rotation of the elbow'? My long sleeve twists when arms are relaxed - the underarm seam aligns with the base if the thumb instead of the center if the inside wrist. Th sleeve pulls against the elbow. Very twisty and uncomfortable. PS - my goldens are happy when your little dog barks :-) Alberta
Thanks for this video. I’ve used all of your previous tutorials and they’ve always given far superior results to others I’ve tried. It’s always exciting to get a notification of a new upload from your channel. Will you be doing a woman’s trouser tutorial in the future?
Lots of requests for a pant sloper. If I can simplify the draft while maintaining good results, I'll show one. Still in the testing stage, and may be for a while.
I love this but I have a question because I'm totally new to this. When you are tracing the under sleeve, are you tracing the inner seam allowance lines or the cutting lines?
thank you.. it is just too many lines on the upper sleeve patter, that if it was done with different color makers would not be confusing to me. But i will try it until i get it right..lol
Thanks Kamal. Most of pattern drafting I'm demonstrating is from body measurements, so they should work with a wide variety of body types. For a fuller waist, you may need to leave out waist darts, and add extra at the side seams.
Ok guy ,Please don't make me laugh now, you think that is a 2 piece tailored sleeve ? it has to be born a 2 piece , not manipulated into one. That s why on 98% of women suit jkt./ coats the sleeve sucks , cause womenswear pattern makers make it the same way you do. That is a freaking shirt sleeve split in 2
Hi John. There are many ways to draft a two piece sleeve. This is only one of them. I am familiar with the formula method for making a man's suit sleeve, but it is very complicated, and definitely not for beginners. I have, however used this draft method to make women's jacket sleeves very successfully.
I am working on blazers for a female client. I this two piece sleeve, fitted her yesterday and she was very pleased with the results. It hung very well on her arm and it is really flattering. She was so pleased with it compared to the one I had earlier drafted from a book by Aldrich. Thank you so much Christopher
