Draw THEN Anchor | Archery Tips 

Better yet to run the stretch band or tubing around a riser grip, which will allow to practice proper bow hand pressure point and angled grip.

Same here!

I shot much more consistently today.

Potentially your clicker is slightly too far, it shouldn't click until you expand from anchor.

Likely your clicker is too far forward. How did you set the length in the first place? It's common for archers to set their clicker length based on the "wrong" form, so they might not be at correct alignment. If you're activating the clicker without reaching full tension, you're introducing a large degree of variation in the shot. You don't want to have 5% "extra" space to expand through because that's 5% variation in each shot - which in turn means 5% variation on horizontal drift because of excess movement.

i have a similar problem: when i draw until my elbow is in line with the arrow instead of sticking out like a "chicken wing" i kinda have to anchor with my thumb knuckle where my ear meets my jawbone. i think i kinda manage to hold this anchor fairly steadily and repeatable, but the problem is that this puts my arrowtip almost 3 target widths to the right of a 50m target. which is not really ideal when i try to shoot barebow and try to aim over the tip of my arrow... finding a repeatable aim point in the grass beside the target has me barely hitting the bale of the target. i started out shooting instinctively and switched to aiming with the arrow tip because i was even less consistent and i also tried shooting with sights, but they would have to reach all the way over and through my arrow to point at a 50m target....

You don't have to over draw to reach max tension. The biggest contributing factor is whether your wrist is RELAXED and STRAIGHT. Locking the wrist prevents the elbow coming all the way back.

​@@TheScarvig I'm a RH barebow recurve shooter that has been suffering with TP issues (freezing low) and always hitting left for some reason. I have done blank bale and blind bale shooting before, but I recently experimented with a different drill which was initially meant to help with freezing low. This was because I found that I'm able to pivot at the hips to adjust for elevation while my eyes are closed. Don't ask me why... My initial attempt went as follows: Addressing the target, I close my eyes while coming to full draw - keeping a "snapshot" in my mind. I try to really feel the deliberate motion of the draw arm, the back tension progressively building up as my elbow is getting to alignment. I then anchor and hold for a second as I open my eyes. I then saw that my arrow point was off to the right. I then realized that I have been forcing my bow arm to go left ever so slightly as I was drawing back instead of pushing straight towards the target. I then tried the same drill but with now a slightly more open stance - arrow point is vertically in line with the target and arrows no longer hitting left. Hope this helps! Now on to the freezing low problem... 😅

The tricky bit is that drawing to that _point_ doesn't mean that you have drawn to that _length._ The anchor point isn't a physical limitation of how far you you align your shoulders. If the wrist is locked and the arm is bent out of line, you're drawing short even though you've reached your anchor. You may be unconsciously reaching full draw and full alignment on the "good" shot, but you go down the mental confusion of why arrows drift left/right on a "bad" - and that's because you didn't reach the correct _alignment._ When I teach thumb shooters, I challenge them to recognise when they have reached full draw (i.e. their maximum range of motion). They will reach the same anchor, but their elbow is 10-15 degrees off because they weren't paying attention to their alignment.

I'm not shooting a closed trigger system in this sequence, so I'm making a conscious decision to release. It's not going to be as clean - but slow down any finger release enough and it's going to look "static". An external trigger will prompt a more automatic and clean release. The silencers came with the Harvey Raptor. They're just yarn.

Thank you for the helpful explanation

​@@marctull3596you should try making your own dynapuffs from dyneema rope. According to some, it has its advantages over yarn and cat whiskers albeit more expensive.

The head isn't moving. The shoulders are going into alignment.

You can still do the shot as long as you don't collapse after anchor. However, it does mean that your draw action is not ideal, and you will need address it, as the loss of back tension is unavoidable if you have to go forward.

Stramit board.