I think the problems are the user's technique. This is a Dremel , not a 2.5 HP router. You should concentrate on keeping the Dremel vertical and use a feather touch on the forward motion. Use two hands, not one when, using an edge follower and make sure to keep the guide flush to the edge, On any power tool you can only advance at the rate that the material is removed or it will buck. Let the tool do the work.
02:30 that T track bit, you needed to cut z straight channel to depth to allow the t track bit to go through. The burning was the shaft having to cut/burn its way through the MDF The bits that gave rough finish while using the edge guide. The Dremel is wobbling from pushing through the cut. you need to support & push the edge guide and hold the Dremel steady.
Your trying to take to much out at once, thus causing the bit to near over-load and try to wander under pressure and is dangerous as the bit could snap and fly off...take two or three routs not one deep cut, exactly the same as a real router...Ray an ex TREND routing demonstrator for 15 years UK...
This is great to know. I've tried to use a dremel as a router in the past and it didn't work... now I know why. There don't seem to be any informative videos about routing with a dremel!
Good advice. I've kind of been discovering this naturally as I've been learning and playing. I bought a bunch of bits and blades along with a press stand. Seems to be going ok if I take my time and take everything in controlled "layers".
Your not controlling the guide correctly, You can see a gap when you start making a cut which of course will not give you a straight line when cutting. You need to keep pressure on the guide to keep it flush against the material and definitely multiple shallower cuts will help. Its a great little tool but they have limitations..
I have the router base for my Dremel with the same bits and use it a lot on items that are too small for one of my other routers. I use a slower speed and feed and take smaller bites. They work well and have also used the same bits on my small CNC.
Looks like you were forcing the tool - which would result in rougher cuts. And as you pointed out, perhaps a softwood would have been a better test. Always use the right tool for the right job
JUST SEE HOW THE DREMEL WOBBLES WHEN IT MOVES ALONG AND HOW HE PUSHES THE DREMEL INSTEAD ALLOWING THE DREMEL MOVES NATURALING AND YOU JUST GUIDING IT...THAT EXPLAIN WHY THE RESULT IS NOT BETTER
You know a hand saw has many teeth on it but everyone seems to use just 3-4 inches as they saw back and forth frantically and quickly thinking they are working faster. My grandfather taught me many years ago to use the entire length of the saw slowly and let the tool " do its work" as your slave. My point is "let the tool do its work" within its ability here. You're asking too much of the tool by forcing the tool to eat more meat than it is capable thus a poor result. Slow down the load on the tool and see the difference in your end product. This tool will work fine within its capability and in capable hands.
Dremel's are meant for finer detailed work. YOU severely skewed your review. On most of the work you're working on its best to use a router, especially with T-Slots. Another thing is you are free handing your passes. Set up a simple guide to run your tool. I don't care for this video!
You're trying to take off far too much in one go with that tiny motor and cheap bits, the keyhole cutter is never going to work well as you can just take off a small amount first then set it deeper like you can with the others (which is what you should have been doing)
I agree with everything you’re saying except for the keyhole bit. You can use one of the straight bits to hog out all the material in the middle up to the same depth of the keyhole bit. Then use the keyhole bit to take out the bottom wider portion, it should work then. It is the same concept as taking shallower cuts out rather than trying to take the whole depth of the bit out at once.
Creí que ibas a hacer un RÓTULO ,o una pequeña talla ....para utilizarlo para cortes rectos y vaciados ....pues bueno ,habrá máquinas mejores . Un saludo
Thanks very helpful - as I have old paneling that is 'out of print' so to say, and I have to install a panel piece over a doorway I am closing up- so I need to match the random grooves, but do not want to purchase a router, and this seems to be the answer, I don't want a dremmel, but it's cheaper than a router. Thanks so much. This panel will be painted, and no one will look that close (hopefully) ha!
Have you used two handed approach.. upper control & lower hand control.. much slower hand control push speed would make better cuts .. Trial & error , I would say !
That "T" slot should have had the centre cut made first with a straight cuter to relieve the "T" cutter from thermal wear,and not burn the motor out,instead of one pass to make the entire cut.
Hello. They third bit you used Is More for making small cuts from the edge to the internal of the mdf in order to get a notch to hung a framed picture. Thats how I use this bit for. Congratulations for your helpful video
You aren't even holding your fingers against the guard and your trying to get a clean cut? And your doing it on a 5 inch width? Come on man...try it on a longer length and try placing your fingers against the right side of the guard when starting the cut and keeping it firmly placed up tight...then place a finger against the left side of the guard once cut begins and then give your 2 cents on this product
when using the dremel to cut a T slot, pardon my near sightedness but I did not see you cut the straight slot first. The idea for doing such is to take the tension from around the T slot cutter bit and thus you hopefully would not have so much wood burning in the process. But you could be right for do mention using a straight bit first and the problem of burning may be in the type of wood i.e. MDF to Pine.
10 years as an interior trim Carpenter, Rule #1, never ever never touch or tinker with a bit or blade after it is installed on a power tool. When routering, ALWAYS pull the router towards you. Carpenters do not push a router down the board. All carpenters HATE particle board. Real carpenters do not use glued sawdust (particle board) to do any project unless that is what they are forced to use.
Good rundown showing various bit designs and what they produce! Next I would vote for a demonstration on edge trimming laminate after its been applied to plywood.
Sorry but all i can see wrong in this video was user error you should be using 2 hands instead of one you should be using the guide rail properly to start with and the T track bit would have worked if it was not cutting so deep
nobody USES A "t-track BIT" to cut without starting with a straight bit cut to feed the t-track bit through. If you are going to "review" products without knowing how to properly use them learn first and preach later.
Maybe you should give us a lesson, Karen. Since you seem to be a no-it-all in everything. It would be far more useful than being a useless comment troll!
Were they dremel brand bits or a cheaper alternative? You can't call them by a product name if that's not what they really are and you can't expect cheap junk to perform like quality tools and accessories.
I bought a dremel from Wal-Mart, and it came with all the attachments, like a handle, and the cutting attachment and such, for $45, I think it was. It was not a bad deal for the 5 attachments and 25 cutting/sanding bits I got.
He tratado de encontrar este accesorio en Chile hace mucho tiempo, lo he buscado en muchas tiendas, "BROCA DE CORTE 561 Y ADITAMENTO GUIA DE CORTE 565 DREMEL"
.....well, this is where the start of my project begins after seeing this video..... I need to cut a small square channel appox. 1/8" x 1/8" deep into a 1/4" clear acrylic rectangular rod that makes a frame with rounded corners at the top and bowed sides. There is not a straight edge to work with for any kind of long straight edge guide. Not sure what tools and how to set this up........ I need to place a small string of LED lights into this channel. Pretty delicate routing I need to do, and not sure how to go about it....... Any suggestions or ideas would be appreciated.
You showed how to put on the rotary attachment (which is obviously very easy since it just screws on) but you did not show how to put bit on and adjustments??
The bits attach like all other Dremel bit, by sliding them in and tightening the collet nut. The adaptor has a thumbnail screw on it that can be adjusted up or down for height. Thanks for watching.
Can you make a tutorial how to cut out pointy flames from 12mm mdf? cannot find a tutorial on how to cut out or if possible if you want to make multiple how to make a template so you cut out later by just following the template.
Agreed. Any router work done, especially like the way you are showing, is always ALWAYS done in steps. Progressively getting to the the desired depth you want. You are overloading the tool
Quick comment that may already been made. Yu are man handling the tool. This is a Light duty tool. Slow the hell down. They work much better than what you have shown.
Maybe, but I can't see that working well. There are plunge router bases for dermels and other rotarty tools that would work much better for what you want.
Total user error. Too fast, too deep, one handed unstable feed. Micro router bits can't be forced any more than a standard router bit. Are you a beginner?
