Great info! Important topic. Often misunderstood. Another indication that you may need an FBA is when the front of the garment is pulling up. What I found often helps people understand the difference between dressmaker’s and bra cup sizes is to the realise the different functions. In a garment we want the fabric to flow from the shoulders over the bust towards the waist. For that the difference between high bust and bust is more relevant. A bra needs to fit tightly around your chest under the bust and then cup over the bust to support it. For this the difference between under bust and bust is more relevant. If a size chart does not include high bust measurements you can easily calculate them yourself. Just subtract 2” from the bust measurements if pattern is designed for a B-cup, 4” for D-cup. If you have different cup size from the pattern you can often get better fit when you use that high bust measurement to choose the size instead of the bust. Then use the finished measurements to decide if you need to do a bust adjustment on the size you choose. Although even when there is enough ease to accomodate a larger bust girth, you may still not have enough length over the bust. So you may still want to correct for that. Personally I really don’t like that pulled up look. Makes you look even bustier than you are. Haha, bit of a tantrum 😉💕
Brilliant video Lauren. I have been putting off dressmaking as I just didn't know which size to pick and make its really overwhelming, so this is really helpful, thank you xx
Thank you. I appreciate that you asked my question, re size 10, narrow back D/E (normal) cup on Sunday, because I didn’t even know there was a dressmaker’s cup size. I didn’t know what was wrong or how to work it out. Turns out I’ve a 3” difference. More toiles, get it right, less sacks 🙂 (because I’ve been making size 12 to fit round my bust) 🤦♀️ = very grateful!
Brilliant explanation, you always make understanding any topic so eady. I'm a larger size and I find although patterns,especially indie patterns,make much of expanding their size range ,when checking the actual measurements their often not as generous as they suggest.Also,although I know you shouldn't compare rtw and sewing sizes,you see vloggers having to use an extra large size when by their measurements in comparison to rtw they clearly aren't ,this means as a size 22 I have no chance of fitting their patterns as I'd need an xxxx large.We're asking for a standardization of sizes in rtw yet sewing patterns are not doing this.Indie patterns could have led the way but they,sadly,haven't. Is there a reason why pattern companies use different numbers,letters,sizes?
Hi Maureen, I totally understand what you mean and I'm not sure to be honest why there is so much variation. Sometimes pattern companies will have their starting block to a set of proportions for example a 'pear shape' where the ratio between waist and hip size is greater. Then they will grade up and down from that, but ultimately it means that their size say 14 will be different from another pattern companies size 14 who have had a starting block that has different proportions. I also get the impression that more traditional size labelling was based on body shapes from decades and decades ago and as generally body shapes have changes over that long time period, the labelling of sizing has just become varied and inconsistent, which of course is just not entirely helpful and usually confusing, but the end message I would stick to is really don't worry about what the size is called at all, it's everyones own unique body measurements that are the most important when choosing a size.
Hi Rebecca, I would suggest picking the D cup and they trying a full bust adjustment to add in 2 inches to make up the difference. Have you checked out Cashmerette patterns? Their G/H cup size account for a 5 inch difference so that might work for you as well depending on the size of the garment.
Hi Anna, yes some pattern companies class A cup as a 1 inch difference and then a 2 inch difference a B cup and I've seen before some companies label their different busty sizes as A/b cup and then C/d cup (chalk and notch for example do this) but it would depend on the pattern company and style of the garment. I would say its likely you would only want to consider a small bust adjustment if it was a particularly fitted garment with bust and waist darts for example, otherwise most of the time the B cup is likely to be fine.
I don't want to tread on anyone's toes here, but for @Anna Singleton and @Maureen Cullen, have you heard of Sure Fit Designs? I only took up sewing about a year ago and I was having so much trouble getting my clothes to fit in all the right places - I have a small bust, very short waist and hips that are rather a lot larger than my bust. Buying trousers has always been a performance, except when low rise trousers are in, and my first attempt at making trousers from a commercial pattern left an awful lot to be desired - especially as the pattern cautioned against grading between sizes which is what I had to do to get a fit on my waist and hips (and not just one size, either). However, I purchased the 'pants kit' from SFD and did the measurements, plotted them on the master pattern, drew out the pattern onto vellum, cut and sewed the toile and got a perfect fit first time. The individual kits are not cheap compared to the cost of a single pattern, but I've now made 4 pairs of trousers, and if I'd bought 4 different patterns trying to get that perfect fit without having to make too many adjustments, that kit's already paid for itself. I've just bought the dress kit, so I can make some skirts and t-shirts that suit my style instead of what's currently 'on trend'. And along with the master kits, there's an entire library of written and video articles, explaining/showing how to work through every aspect of creating your garment and getting a professional finish. And it even comes in handy for adapting commercial patterns once you've created your blueprint because you can lay the commercial pattern over/under the blueprint and get the design touches you want whilst also getting that perfect fit. Like I say, I don't want to be treading on toes here, but if I'd stuck with just using commercial patterns, I'd still be trying to make a pair of trousers that fit me properly.
