Building on lessons learnt from the prototype jig, I make a robust version of the tool that should give good service in the workshop. Link to video about the prototype: • Drill Sharpening - 4 F...
A really useful addition to a 4-facet grinding jig is an inexpensive old analog CCTV camera with microscope lens (from China via eBay) mounted in such way that if you slide the jig to the side, the tip of the drill presents itself to the camera lens and shows up on a monitor connected to the camera at 5-10x magnification. You see everything nicely and can make any corrections as you go.
If you are not a prototype machinest you will do until one comes along. , I am kinda pissed at you because now I have to make one for the KO Lee. Great work my friend.
I do only do one-offs, so I suppose I could flatter myself to be a prototype machinist. However, the reality is I am just a prosaic hobbyist who too often struggles against his limitations :) Thank you for the compliment and for subscribing.
I dont mean to be so offtopic but does anyone know of a tool to get back into an instagram account?? I was dumb lost my login password. I would love any tricks you can give me!
@Fletcher Kashton I really appreciate your reply. I found the site thru google and im waiting for the hacking stuff atm. Looks like it's gonna take a while so I will get back to you later when my account password hopefully is recovered.
Use a hex driver instead of an Allen key for adjustment, and use knurled thumbscrews to hold the clamps.. Nice work..👍 Would a square clamp to hold the bits be good idea, so they could easily be turned 180 degreees?
Nice video! I would like to make one for my tool grinder! I do have a bunch of morse taper shank drills from MT1 - MT4 that I’d like to sharpen as well. What modifications would you think necessary to clear the taper into the channel, given the different diameters and shank length?
Great jig, I reckon I may copy your ideas thanks. How did you finish up setting the cutting lip horizontal? Is it as important to have the lip horizontal when grinding the secondary clearance angle?
I just eyeball against a rule held horizontally. It would be nice to come up with something more scientific but I haven't really put any energy into that yet. Probably not critical for secondary clearance angle to be horizontal but this is an easy way to make sure both lips have the same angle - which is important. Cheers, Alan.
To be honest, it hasn't been getting much use lately. I don't sharpen drills that are less than 1/4", and I haven't needed to drill many larger holes in my home workshop this year as I tend to use annular cutters and boring tools on the mill and lathe. Cheers.
@@mikebryan544 Perhaps a couple of segments in this (early) video describing the mods to the press will provide the info you want: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-P6FVu7VnGcs.html and ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-P6FVu7VnGcs.html If not, I can take some more pics for you. Cheers.
bonjour j'ai fabriquer à peu près le même prototype, je possède la même machine que vous AR5 !!! je comprend pas pourquoi vous ne vous servais pas du vernier de la table Y pour le déplacement de la prise de passe ? plutot que de vous compliquait le travail avec le réglage à vis
By in-feeding using the table Y travel, the lip slowly diverges from the horizontal as the length of the drill is consumed ie the outer edge of the lip drops due to helix of the flute.
oui je comprend, mais il y a beaucoup de modèle de matériel qui bloque le forêt du début à la fin de l’affûtage ( juste le changement d'angles pour les quatre faces et la rotation à 180 °) moi je fais comme ça!!!!! en tout cas super vidéo et merci beaucoup
Excusez-moi mais je ne parle pas Français et je ne comprends pas « de modèle de matériel qui bloque le forêt du début à la fin de l’affûtage » Pourriez-vous reformuler cela ?Merci.
@@alanshomeworkshop oui bonjour le systeme TORMEK DB22 par exemple et bien d'autres !!! par contre il commence par la 1ere face angle de coupe et ensuite la 2ème face dépouille. vous j'ai remarqué que vous commenciez par la deuxième face donc le décalage viens de la je pense ??? ou bien il faut refaire le réglage de l’arête de coupe à 0° en sortant légèrement le forêt vers l'avant !!! je pense merci
@@didierdudu7910 I am sorry but automatic French English translation is not good enough for me to properly understand or respond to your comments. Thank you for your interest in my video. Cheers, Alan.
bonjour, désolé de ne pas parler anglais !!! simplement en commençant à affûter les deux premières face du foret puis les deux deuxièmes faces pour ne pas avancer le foret par rapport à son support !!!!!! vous je crois que vous faites le contraire? (deuxième face ensuite première face, je crois que le décalage viens de la !!!!) si vous ne comprenais pas je vais demander à un ami de traduire merci
человек имеет превосходный и дорогой инструмент. зачем делать фигню? купи ещё один хороший дорогой заточной станок! данное видео всем бесполезно. просто красиво , и что ? в таком возрасте уже принято говорить о разумности.
