Patience, persistence & common sense go a long way especially with no instructions or manual on hand. Nice video. I haven’t had to change my belts yet. You saved me some time for when I will have to. Thanks!
I know from experience how maddening belt changing can be. You sure kept your cool. Most mechanical engineers should be shot for the way they design and route belts.
I'm thankful for folks like you that offer help when a owners manual is not available. It's much easier to learn from a "DIY guy" than reading from a manual anyway! Thanks again
Everybody's different. I prefer to read instructions (not pictures but words). Of course that means whoever wrote the instructions must have done a good job. I learn from videos too....just not my preferred method of learning. And I mean I read the instructions myself, not someone else read them to me...doesn't work as well for me. These days however, instruction manuals are geared to multiple languages with mostly pics and few words (because English is not an easy language despite being used all over the world) so videos have become more important.
Bruce this video has helped me a lot. Thank you! My tiller may be different than yours since it has electric start, but seeing how the belt-change is done, and how to adjust the settings is so very helpful. Great video!
I have this same model but with a different engine, an old 5hp Tecumseh that runs like a champ! Starts on first or second pull every time....and I mean every time. I've changed the belts and tines (tines were really worn out). Had it for 30 years and no troubles....just ordinary adjustments once in a great while like when the belts have stretched a bit. Great machine that will do the work for you, if you let it. My dad always said let the tool do the work and that advice has made my life easier. Good video.
I'm doing my belts now and thought I would check on-line to see what I may encounter. Thanks for the great info. it will definitely save me some frustration in parts searching. I took the old belts off already and it wasn't bad to do at all, but then I've been doing belts on things like Olds Auroras and the like for over 40 yrs so scraped knuckles are nothing new. Good job!
THANK YOU THANK YOU THANK YOU!!!! At 00:30 you show EXACTLY what I needed to know. Those vertical "bars" with the goofy yellow cap are RUSTED to the frame on the tiller I am repairing, and naturally the control lever is BENT TO HADES! Not my machine, but I am tasked with repairing and selling it. I have repaired many types of engines and stuff for many years, and every time its a surprise when somebody brings me something I've never seen before. The GREAT NEWS: I did get those two 8 inch long "bars" removed, and will now mount them on a (wood) lathe and clean all the rust off. THanks for THinking!!! Some Guy in North Central Florida
This video really helped me because I could not get the second belt back on. I also used GW1128 belts. The tiller could have been designed so as not to make it so difficult. I 100% agree about getting original equipment belts. Thanks.
Just as I hit send I spotted your yellow card between the garage doors my Lyft car it is exactly like that but the footpedal that you pump up actually that might be the same exact thing I put ramps on mine and drive the tiller up on it! Makes working in the shop enjoyable again!
Any markings on the OEM belts that might be helpful in tracking down another source ? What is the outside circumference of the "too small" Gates belts versus either the new or old OEM belts.
Coincidentally I'm currently working on the same tiller. Maybe not such a coincidence as my uploads may have been what triggered RU-vid to put this video in my recommended list. It's too bad I didn't see it sooner as it would have helped me figure out that drive system quicker. But it's still helpful, I'll need to do the belts on mine when it's done, some lazy schmuck only put one belt on and from what I've read these tillers are known to slip in hard ground even with the dual belts. And I didn't know about that tension adjustment on the control clutch either. Great stuff, thanks again Bruce!
Good job Godfather. Yes that is a real Troy Bilt tiller their big model the small one is called the Pony. They are the Cadillac of tillers (at least the original Troybilt ones). My dad had one they are great tillers. He had an engine issue and Troybilt replaced the engine under warranty. You might be able to go on line and get a manual on it. I would send you a copy, but my mother sold it after dad passed and the manual went with it.
Well the couple has it back and has used it already. They are the reason I am on you tube. They brought the tiller to me when I was just starting in the small engine repair. I took a 10 second clip of the problem and sent it to them via email. I thought "that is a lot like you tube" and godfather was born!! You named me that I know.
The tiller in the video is a Horse model, much larger than the Pony model you had, a completely different belt system and different transmission. So the manual you had wouldn't work at all LOL.
I have 2 of the Horse tillers. As far as I can tell one is a 1976 model...It has one belt with different size pulleys. One I BELIEVE is older, maybe not, it has 2 belts with same size pulleys.
If you check that pdf file that gathers up many of the serial numbers and mfg dates ((it's on a tractor forum)) it shows the dates for end of horse 1, horse 2, and 3, and that the different sized pulleys 4 speed came in with the horse 2, about 1979 (could be closer to 1980) with horse 2 running through late 1982. It had few specific s/n, just ranges, mostly... I just added a 2nd belt onto mine (302288 horse 1) just to ward off any slippage that could rear its ugly head. Use em or lose em?
The Cadillac of tillers. Bruce I get my belts at your regular auto parts store in gates or dayco. Look on line first for the part number and call your store. I paid $12 each a couple of years ago. I have the smaller pony model. Not so easy to change...
Hmmm, all those others, possibly young whippersnappers who have only seen the horse 2 and 3 (4speeds) not the horse 1 , 2 speed... ;-) I put the cheapest belt I could find, 7 bucks delivered (equiv to tb 1128 or 1128-1) that measured out at 21 3/4 inch, perfect.... ((but they came stamped from some factory as v19... there were actually v21, I think..so the ca ebay seller was listing them as 1128 and v21, but shipping a v19, which was the correct size for a 2 speed horse 1. confusing.;-)
Yes its supposed to have 1 belt. there are 2 different pulley sizes so you have a total of 4 speeds by changing belt positions front or back set of pulleys. So you have high and low with the lever, then changing the belt to the other set of pulleys gives you another high low speed range. I cannot recall if its the back or front set of pulleys for higher or lower speed in high and low range but this is a 4 speed unit with the dual pulley setup. Most people have no clue and install 2 belts and wonder why it won't operate properly.
The 2 belt or one belt configuration. Serial number 314151 and up uses single belt. Below 314150 to serial number 2731 uses 2 belts. Serial number 2730 and down uses 1 belt and are the 4.5 hp engines. Hope this clears this up.
@@scottrerko5416 my serial number is 150640, troybuilt guesses 1970 to 1972. Do you know what model honda gx series engine I need? I have the kohler 7 hp model k161t. Would like to repower with honda gx, as much horse power as possible,if poss a gx390, a 11 to 12 hp engine. Honda wants me to tear into the old engine for dhaft lenghth, diameter, and connection to pully type. I am not real good to take apart the kohler. Wondering if you know. Thank you. Jim.
I have a question sir. Why every time I put in on slow gear to start tilling. As soon as the blades touch the soil it automatically shuts off..any ideas??
Be careful of which model you have. Mine is a 1981 (I believe) 7hp Horse that has the two-speed belt drive (large and small pulley on top, Small and Large pulley on bottom) to give four speed ranges total. Others use two belts (BOTH grooves are same size on TOP pulley, same size on BOTTOM pulley). If you put two belts on a two-speed pulley, you are just going to roast two expensive belts as they try to turn at different speeds when engaged.
Yes, I just found out that mine is the newer model so I only need one belt. It didn't seem right when I put two belts on. Then I looked carefully at the pully sizes and realized I had the four speed version.
I own a 1973 horse 1 and it had a clinton 4h.p. on it (factory original), with cast iron spoke wheels and knobby tires.I put a new 5h.p. b&s engine on it,seems to be short on horsepower in the deeper setting....just wondering how the original 4 h.p.managed the load ?
Today's HP ratings aren't the same as old engines. Usually a larger HP engine today isn't nearly the HP they claim, usually several HP less which gives far less torque.
You only need one belt... The 2 pulleys are different size.. It changes wheel speed, from one pulley to the other, That is why they call it a four speed tiller..
No its a 4 speed unit and needs only 1 belt. 1978 was the beginning of the 4 speed units in the Horse models. 1 belt is all you need. Same belt between the 2 different pulley sets just different pulley sizes, and you'll have to adjust the belt tension between high and low speed ranges if you change to the other pulley set.
I have and older model like this. Are the belts all roughly the same size for 70s to 80s troy built horse tillers? I for some reason lost a belt and only have one on mine. Also why is there two anyways?
My tiller tines are beginning to stall out in tough soil, I can see the belts slipping and they feel a bit to lose, the tensioner is adjusted all the way already, should a new set of belts fix this issue?
Bruce awesome vid thanks! I just got this exact tiller similar shape with an awesome working tecumsheh engine, I wonder the reverse pulley wheel behind the bolt you lowered, I noticed on line they sell the reverse pulley wheels with a rubber around the perimeter however I think this tiller has the hard type of reverse pulley wheels that are a bit of V-shape in the bottom? Any info will be apprecieated, or if you have a part number thanks!
When I do this, I disconnect the bracket that pivots the engine up and down, then I pull the two pins out that the engine assembly slides up and down on, thats why there is yapped holes in the top of them. Screw a puller in and pull them out after removing the stop bolts that keeps them in place. Pull engine off, put on new belts, when mounting engine, I slip both belts on bottom of pulley then lift engine into place, replace the two slider pins and reconnect bracket, adjust the belts tension slider block and done. Less messin around then trying to force the belts over the pulleys and trying to pull of push them through such a small area. It seems like a lot, but i can do this in about 20 minutes. I have done several of these.
Great video, thanks I’m fixing to do the dirty deed on my 63 Troy built, can’t remember how long the belts have been on. Starting to slip and I’ve adjusted it out.
Just acquired this machine from a buddy's scrap pile, repowered with honda knock off from princess auto, predator type engine. Machine repainted, no decals or indicators, one bad tire, lol. Will let you know how it works out after install the new predator engine.
@@BrucesShop Thanx, noted that my unit has dual pulleys but does not require 2 belts and 2 belts will lock up the gearbox. As for reverse, etc, its all in the fine tune adjusting of the levers and limits. vid making a newbie into day use expert, lol. thanx again from people's republic of Canada.
Bruce! I have an old Horse tiller, came off the line in 1978 and it's still a monster machine. But when push the lever down to go into forward, it won't stay there, it pops right back out. Any suggestions where to start or what it might be? I'm putting on new belts too as you have done in this video. Thanks!
@@rmp3648 I got the 2nd belt on, with much difficulty, by removing the bolt only from the reverse disc which is only 80% its orig size, that allowed the pulleys slide out a little, giving me space to get 1 belt up against the engine, out of the way, so I could mount belt 2, first up against the engine, on that set of pulleys, then easily move it over to the rear set of pulleys. after sweating a while first, that's how I got the 2 on... while moving the belt engage bar up or down to accommodate what I was moving where... Know what I mean? I think there will be nearly no chance for slipping now, with 2 belts, adjusted to very firm...
I have one from that same era and had to do some major adjusting going from one belt to two. Once I ran it for a while with both new belts on it started to smoke like crazy. Almost looks like one belt is rubbing on the frame. Did that happen on yours?
@@BrucesShop I found out the uhauls were orange and white engines. My bolts are very close which I haven't tried to replace it yet. I need to locate a carb rebuild kit or another. There great units, I'm not sure why people are scrapping them or parting them out even if the engines are bad
I’ve just acquired a tiller almost identical to this one as a gift. The previous owner did an engine swap on it at some point. I do not know a lot about this tiller and the original owner has now passed away. The lever that you moved up and down to adjust the engine almost feels stuck on mine. Any ideas or suggestions for me on what I can do to fix it? I have only sprayed WD40 to see if that might help. I’m afraid I might break it with how hard you have to push on it. Thanks for any help.
@@BrucesShop I’m working on that now I’ve moved the little square block up and down some to try and readjust it but that didn’t help any. I’m trying to dismantle it now though.
Why 2 belts. Doesn't each belt control gear ratio? One high speed and one low speed? Wouldn't you only run one belt depending on which range you wanted
That tiller looks exactly like mine but cant find sn or model number on it. It says TH -1001 and on a tag 197-E but Everybody tells me those are not right. Even had a Troybilt dealer tell me Garden way has nothing to do with Troybilt ever. I need the seals or bearings for the tiller shaft. any ideas on serial number or model number or year made ?
For stuff like that I pull the seals and take them to an industrial store for new ones. That old stuff was made to be fixed. It may be lie a bearing 3/4 inside and 2 inch outside.
The tillers were built by Garden Way back then. As for the serial number its on a little tab sticking out from the top side of the transmission housing. Really on the old machines it was a Horse 1, Horse 2, Horse 3, etc. They really didn't have a model number back then, at least I don't ever recall any. Newer ones have a model number I think starting around 2004 or so after MTD took over and destroyed them.
Two belts can indeed be installed. The two different pulley sets are different. One gives you more speed than the other. Installing two belts will cause them to fight one another. The machine actually has four speeds. Two speeds for one position of the belt and two faster speeds for the other position of the one belt. I reference the 1988 manual for the horse.
Nevermind answered my own question. Model 1 "yours" uses two belts it's only a two speed. Model two and three uses one belt and is a 4-speed. Model 1 does not have a PTO disconnect on the left side of the transmission. Models 2 and 3 have a PTO disconnect this and is a 4-speed single belt set up.
I have a Horse Tiller that was built in the early 90's. Although it definitely stumped me from the looks of things, you're not supposed to run two belts on the tiller if it has a 2 speed transmission.
@@BrucesShop Thanks ! I notice that mine like yours has pully's for two belts but someone only put one belt on mine which is stretched now. I have ordered two belts and will follow your method. It works with one but probably needs two. No one has addressed this. Any ideas ? No doubt I'll have to review your video a few more times !
Very helpful, and thank you for posting. Would it not save a lot of time and trouble, though, to simply cut the old belts? Seems like with a pair of garden shears or a razor knife you could have them both off in about 30 seconds.
@@BrucesShop That makes sense. And I did answer my own question. A pair of pruning shears, an the belts were off in about 30 seconds. Great video, Bruce. Thanks.
@Maddog worker That's why im here too. Afew guys said its for the two speed feature. I just bought a horse. One belt and had not enough torque to till. I figured it used two belts ,two pulleys to increase the surface area when engaged to deal with the torque required when in tough tilling conditions. The one belt was worn too. I'll get back after I install them.
Thank you sir. I just picked one of these up 2nd hand and I noticed that there was only one belt, and that one is slipping. I will use this video to replace and install 2 new belts.
Also, some of them, like mine, have 2 pulleys but only one belt....you move the 1 belt between the different pulleys according to the speed you want....if I tried running mine with 2 belts.......something would break....be careful!!!
Its only 1 belt. The double pulleys are for a total of 4 speeds. 1 set of pulleys is a faster speed than the other....so between high and low range with the lever having the 2 pulley system you get a total of 4 speeds. DO NOT run 2 belts, that's why this tiller in this video wasn't working properly.
You know there's only supposed to be 1 belt on there right? There's 2 pulley slots to give you 4 speeds, you slip the belt over the front or rear set of pulley's depending on what speed range you want. Also, never shift in and out of high or low range with the forward/reverse lever engaged, its a great way to destroy the bronze gears in the transmission. I have a Troy Bilt Horse Tiller from 1979, looks pretty much the same, reverse disc is a bit different though. Still has the original Tecumseh HH60 engine on it.
Bruce Pender Weird, the manual for my Horse Tiller says different, and also the pulley's on mine are different sizes, it also states in the manual 4 speeds and in fact it is I've tried it on mine with the belt on both sets of pulleys and you can tell a difference, maybe some are different then.
This may be it I just Googled Reverse disk for horse tiller. www.ebay.com/itm/Troy-Bilt-Tiller-Fiber-Reversing-Disc-Part-Numbers-1072-GW-1072-2732-GW-2732-/310673507085
Many online parts websites have parts for these tillers, as well as engine parts, but you'll find in some cases the prices are pretty ridiculous so shop around.
My next job! Mine has misc auto shop belts, and I must hold the lever down in order to get motion🤔🤔 I HAVE A KNEE SAVER! It's a lift table from harbor freight, ($230ish US) lifts 1/2 ton to bench level I also use it for my 19 HP LAWN TRACTOR, ATV, LAWN MOWER ETC NOMOREKNEELINFORTHISOLDANDWORNWARRIER😊
yep, I think my belt is too big. 1/2" × 24" and it's bigger than the worn one. what size belt did you put on there? I've pulled up on the Internet 1/2" × 20"?
Bruce Pender thanks for the help. made the mistake on ebay by just matching the name of the tiller. I think my belt goes on one of the pony models. subbed to your channe, video was helpful no doubt.
Thanks for video, I watched it and changed my belts but now I don’t have reverse, I used cheap 22” belts. Did you route the belts outside of the guides?
This appears to be a " REAL " Troy-bilt product , but now, Troy-bilt is just a name that is owned by " LOWES " as is " MTD " as well. MTD now builds everything with the Troy-bilt name stuck to it.
Yes These are very versatile machines. I don't know how old it is but 4 years ago it took a honda clone motor. (as I said in the video) Heavy unit too.
Yes, they were built by Garden Way many years ago, some actually say Garden Way on them rather than Troy Bilt. My grandfather's Troy Bilt Tiller is still going, had to put a new carb on it last year but it did a lot of tilling after the carb replacement last year. I'm not sure how old the one my grandfather has is, he can't remember its been so long ago. I primarily use it now and these things are great machines. I bet these new "Troy Bilts" don't last near as long. Even the original Tecumseh HH-60 engine is still on this tiller.
@@wildbill23c Interestingly Troy Built still sells the "Horse" tiller and it looks like they haven't changed it much at all. $2,000 tiller, ouch. www.troybilt.com/equipment/troybilt/horse-garden-tiller
@@MrUbiquitousTech They sell the "same" tiller with very degraded components and the engines aren't what they used to be, not the greatest and horrible prices too. Yep they're expensive, only because they rely on the "Troy-Bilt" name to sell them, if they put their MTD name on them they'd never sell any. The Troy Bilt on them is the only thing keeping sales up by people who have no idea they're no longer built like they used to be....that's why you see so many newer ones for sale, people find they're not as good.
BE CAREFUL there are a few different lengths for these horse tillers. Forward/Reverse Belt for Troy-Bilt Horse Tiller Part numbers: 1128 GW-1128 GW-1128-1 1128-1 Applications: Fits Models: Troy-Bilt 2 speed horse models, serial numbers 1001 to 314150 Dimensions: Drive length: 22” Width: 1/2"
There are different models. Mine has 2 pulley's the same size. They are shipped with 2 identical belts as well. It is for strength and reliability. Thanks for commenting.
My 1973 has two sets of dissimilar pulleys. They call it a four-speed in the manual. 0.5 mph-1.72 mph, using the fast/slow on each belt, after manually moving the belt. The rear set of pulleys is for gardens, and the front set is faster is for the front blade attachment for snow, gravel, dirt, and doing fast passes in the garden. www.brentchalmers.com/TillerManuals.php
@@BrucesShop Horse tillers after 1978 had 2 sets of pulleys but those 2 sets of pulleys are different sizes, and are to give the tiller a total of 4 speeds, you run 1 belt and swap it between the 2 different pulleys depending on how fast you want the tiller to travel and how fast you want the tines to spin.
@@BrucesShop that i know, but everything i have read and all the experience i have with these is that they only run one belt. theres 2 sets of pulleys but there for an additional high low range. these tillers have 4 speeds and 2 tiller speeds also
A lot of people don't realise that there are many types of these tillers. Thanks for the kind comment. Some have 2 belts. Some have one. Some have 2 different ones.
THIS MACHINE IS MENT FOR ONLY ONE BELT---THE OTHER PULLYS ARE DIFFERENT SIZE AND ARE ONLY FOR ANOTHER SPEED---IF YOU PUT TWO BELTS ON THEY WILL BE FIGHTING EACH OTHER!
Your 2 motor pullies must be the same size and your 2 bottom pullies must be the same size or else you wouldn't be able to have 2 belts on there. On my horse model tiller the 2 motor pullies are different sizes and the 2 bottom pullies are different sizes to offer 4 different speeds for tillering and transport. I only use 1 belt on the reward pullies.
One belt only should be installed. One set of pulleys gives you more low end torque the other gives me more speed. Two belts doesn't make sense. Only one will engage. It may not be the one you want. Consult the manual
Do a little research on this and get back to me. I've only ever seen one belt on the two speed horse model. I believe the pulley is a two-step pulley for two different speeds you're not supposed to put both belts on at the same time. Could I be wrong?
As per the other comment I am sorry i can't help you more. You are the first com-mentor that acknowledges that there are many different types of these tillers.
There are many types of these. The manual shows 2. On this one. Sorry this was in 2016 and the unit has gone home. Here is a link for the Tiller that isn't a 4 speed that takes 2 pulley's www.troybilt.com/en_US/belts/garden-tiller-belt-kit/GW-1128.html
www.mytractorforum.com/214-tiller-talk/153157-troy-bilt-tiller-serial-number-list.html This will answer a lot of questions. List of serial numbers with mfg dates and changes along the way. This is a forum post with the file attached. Just download and keep for yourself. Go to Feb 1978. Last horse 1 produced and introduction of horse II. Change to single belt with two choices of pulley speed. Mar 78 7 hp added.