Hi Bruce. I have the same seal leaking. Going to replace this weekend. How deep did you drive the new seal in? Was the top of the seal flush with the top of the case or recessed a bit? Thanks so much, great video!
My hrx217hxa this season has gotten worse and worse not cutting all the grass blades even after going 2 different directions! Belt culprit or wax choke piece or cable adjustment or??? Carb replacement was done last year n been on rec gas even before that
Hey Bruce, when it comes to popping the flywheel off, if you have an air-hammer/chisel, try that. Use a small prybar to create tension under the flywheel, then with the air-hammer, with a blunt point tip, a couple quick Brrrts with that and it'll pop right off. Just make sure to have the flywheel nut on. Way easier than a puller, and safer than a hammer. Also a leaky Tecumseh carb usually means a swollen seat. Good to see someone else unafraid to wrench on these old Tecumish engines. I love working on those useless pieces of crap! They're such a pain in the ass to work on, but they're Made in the USA, instead of the new MTD Made In the Land of Chinesium Junk
@@BrucesShop Same.. I also had a puller slip and take a big chunk out of a flywheel on a Tecumseh engine.. I'd say that's the worst thing that happened, but I'd be lying.. as the worst thing was not realizing my impact was set to "Fuck shit up" mode, and it did just that! Split the damn thing right up the middle, almost right in half.. So now I have one with a blown engine so I can salvage the flywheel.. Cuz the engine runs a treat!
Nothing like those Briggs flatheads. They're solid engines. I really enjoy working on them, they're so easy. Diaphragm problems, meh, it's 5 screws, and it's done. I'd sooner monkey around with 5 philips head nightmares, than having to fight with a Honda Carb any day. stupid two bolts and a trillion gaskets later, and you're ready to throw in the towel. At least they switched to studs and nuts instead.. Wonder why that was so hard for them to figure out, considering they do it with the wheels on their cars! Idiots... Engineers I swear. Now Briggs just has their stupid OHV with the plastic camshaft that breaks, or the pressed on lobes that slip. Yeah, great change Briggs. Cheap as shit, and should be flushed..
@@Mike-anic 20 years ago maybe? The below is a couple of 7 year old videos they weren't new then Here is a video Part 1 ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-pL-ZVURFc5o.html Part 2 ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-KzXeiCwVspg.html
I have one like that but it is a 2500 missing the control panel with the plugs . The motor runs great I would think they are from the 70 s at least mine is . The wiring diagram for mine shows a AVR witch must be in the control panel that I do not have .
Thanjs for the tips. I also like seeing that you just used a regular floor jack. Just got my first lawn tractor snd didnt really want to get a special jact thats only used for 1 thing.
Hi Bruce REALY liked your video it REALY helps people like me who are on a fixed income thanks would you post part number of the cam I can’t find it any where
Just want to thank you sir!!!!....was about to give up and throw away my craftsman 6.5 mower..... I've had it for at least 20 years.... this year it gave out!!!.....searched RU-vid for answers and found your channel....did exactly as you instructed and it's running fine!!!!....was all set to go and drop some serious $$ on a new mower.... she's running smooth and cutting great!!!... thanks again for the instructions!!
Hi Bruce Thank you for the wealth of knowledge (and good humour) you’re sharing with the world. It has already helped me immensely. I have a Honda HRB535 and the blades won’t engage. The cable is good and still pulls the brake assembly off the the clutch, so I don’t understand why the blades don’t engage. I have taken the clutch apart, but I don’t know what I’m looking at. Only thing i noticed is the brake pads are worn down to zero. Any tips greatly appreciated. B (gardener in uk)
@@BrucesShop oh dear! Hahaha I find it funny that these have surpassed Tecumsehs in "I won't work on those" engines.. Honestly I really like the Tecumsehs, because when they're running, and maintained, they run so smooth
can you tell me what Carburetor ? I have the same one but the Carburetor is bad and can't find the replacement? Can you get an after market Carburetor ?
Good video Mr. Bruce. I'm working on the same style engine from a Remington now. I can't get it to stop surging when running. I took out the idle jet, soaked it in Gunk and tried running a small wire up through it to clear it. The wire only goes up about half the length of the idle jet. Should it go all the way through? Thanks in advance for your help. Oh, would mower still start ok without either one or the other of the choke systems?
OK Well this was 2 years ago for this mower. I am not sure about the idle jet. I would have to have a choke to start well. You cam prime it though with starter fluid.
@@BrucesShop Thanks ! I notice that mine like yours has pully's for two belts but someone only put one belt on mine which is stretched now. I have ordered two belts and will follow your method. It works with one but probably needs two. No one has addressed this. Any ideas ? No doubt I'll have to review your video a few more times !
@@BrucesShop sorry, I just got my tractor three weeks ago and found your video doing my research !!!!! Very helpful and informative!!!!! Thanks so much 😊👍❤️
Awesome, Bruce. Can’t beat a quantum. Years ago when I worked at a tool rental, we had a Parker Scavenger all terrain vacuum which had an early generation Quantum with manual choke. It didn’t matter what the temperature was outside, it started on first or second pull EVERY time.
I’m working on a vertical shaft pressure washer with a Honda engine on it. Starts up runs for a few minutes then quits. I’ve cleaned the carburetor twice, blew out the tank, and fuel lines but I can’t seem to figure it out. I changed the fuel cap with another machine still no difference. I s it possible that the pump is no good. I don’t see any reason why it wouldn’t work?
Bruce, I put another coil on it and it ran for about three minutes and the engine started running rough then shut off. Unloader issues or thermal relief valve is the next thing to try swapping out.
@@stoolie10 Exactly your issue but you should be able to get the unloader valve freed up so it works properly with a good lubrication and cleaning. At EP we suggest all our customers store their units with a shot of B&S Pump Saver sprayed inside the pump once all the water has been removed. Not only provides protection from water freeze ups but also provides good internal lubrication. Especially important if your water supply is what is called hard water
Wow this was 10 years ago. The video. Do all the usual checks to start a motor. Check to see if it is siezed, spark at the spark plug , fuel, all of that first. Go slow
THIS! THIS IS ALMOST EXCATLY the same like mine… What in earth can be wrong with my machine?? I would really liked to see How you replaced the new coil… cause…I was thinking if I made some mistake on that part. The carburetor was excatly the same like on my lawnmover…I also have 158cc engine but it is 550 series… I hope you read my other comment in your another video. Did you change the sparkplug to some different one there? Some different model?
And…now I started my lawnmower after it had been of two hours …AND IT STARTED LIKE ANGEL! And run like Angel the engine sound was SO nice and not wavy att all… BUT after cutting grass like 5 minutes it stopped totally from ”fly”. Totally. And then it did not start again. And the ”silencer” surroundings feels SO hot! The sparkplug that I use is RJ19LM. Is it possible that I have insert the coil someway wrong? Oh…I SO HOPE you could help me.
@@feelingsviawood Well it could be many things. Coil gettng open when hot. One more. Try just loosening the gas cap. (they need to seal only one way) The coil should say right on it this side up.
@@BrucesShop thank you very much for your answere! I will check the coil just one more time. How do you make the right amount of ”gap” between the magneto and coil? The streght of the ”magnetic pulling” is VERY strong.
