RE: The brake 'shoes' wearing. They will usually last 50,000+ miles. You may need to deglaze them with emery cloth from time to time when braking efficiency drops or when the start squealing. I do mine once a year on my recumbent trike and they are 15years old now with >1.3mm wear to the braking material.
Pretty nice video. I line up the axle flat with somewhere on the rivet, using the 17 mm wrench I'm holding. Because I hold the brake arm tight when I tighten the locknut. I never thought to use that tooth wrench. LOL. To do it the first time, I would just trail and error, till it was good. Getting the play right is always a bugger tho. And anyway, my brake has actually still worked when oil seeped onto the pads and liner. LOL. BTW >> Is that new shift R 5 hub way less trouble that the 5w??
I cannot find any information on your website about the HTR150 hook spanner. It is not listed on the Tools page, and there is no description of the specs to outsource it via another company.
I have taken apart my XLFDD a few times and I think you reassembly process is over complicated, for any with cartridge bearings as mine does. Good tip marked the flats though, should have thought of that.
Do you know if it is possible to sneak a bit of oil into the hub via the hollow axle? I personally swear by adding a bit of oil to gear hubs, even if grease is the general advice, they run noticeably smoother.
what would cause drag between the brake pad and the drum? I'm trying to work on an old SA drum brake, and there's really no gap between the pad and the drum.
Do you have any videos on how to take apart a sturmey Archer Dynamo hub? Only because I need to take out the generator so I can get the Hub painted if you do I'd really appreciate it if you can send me a video or added to your collection thank you!!!
