The paper towel will take a lot of the moisture out of the paint; this is the 'old school' drybrushing technique that often leaves a 'scratchy' finish; this can still have it's place though, depending on the surface you are painting, such as stone or rough cloth. The technique promoted more these days (esp. by Artis Opus) is where the brush is dry (of paint), rather than the paint being dry (of moisture). 👍
Drybrushing can also be used to apply zenithal highlights if you don't have an airbrush. Something to note is drybrushing is fairly harsh on the brush, and will wear bristles down faster than normal painting. You can repurpose some of your older brushes into dry brushes and even trim the bristles back if they have split in the ferrule. If you are looking to speed things up and add a bit more paint, but not to the point where you are base coating, add a little more paint to the brush and paint the same way, with generally downward strokes. This is overbrushing, which is between base coating and drybrushing, with an interim level of paint left behind.
Thank you very much! We really appreciate the support! As to the paints, I used Kimera paints. From darkest to lightest. Falling Grass, Oxide Green, Morning Sky. I tend to mix my paints together and also add additional minor colors to change them up slightly. Hope that helps!
Question: I paint ACW 15mm. Is dry-brushing practical for that scale or not? To be honest, for that scale, I just gave my figures a dark wash to bring out the shadows and crevices.
Oof, 15mm is very small. I think a dry brush could work but it depends on the individual piece in question or how many you are doing in one go. Then you could add a dark wash to makes things pop more.
You should be able to see all of the videos that we have done. They are the top playlist on our channel page. The series is still ongoing though. Hope that helps.