Most people on RU-vid would make a 22-minute video on just replacing the one part. This guy was able to teach me everything I need to know to fix my dryer and more in 4 minutes. Well done.
I watch alot of how to videos because my husband works off land alot so I'm having to fix things on my own. Most of the time there's alot of jibber jabber and it's frustrating waiting for them to get to the point and explaining why this is connected to this and the purpose to this and showing how to fix things. This video was so well explained and easy for me to follow. Thank you so much for making and sharing this video.
I have an older dryer that just started doing this a few days ago. My husband was thinking the lint hose may need cleaned out, because that’s what it was last time I guess. The hose is just fine. I just checked. This video was super helpful and hopefully this is all that is wrong with my dryer.
Just took my dryer apart and it was full of lint all inside of it . Cleaned the heck out of the inside and unplugged all the wires going to the thermostat and took it out and put it back in and plugged it back up and my dryers been working great since! Hope this helps
Firstly congrats. Just did the exact same thing minus removing the thermostat and replying it. It was full of lint. Hopefully that does the trick because it’s been out for months now however I’m believing it’s resolved. I’ll check back and let you know!
I don't feel so bad now that I see another house like mine with random stuff sitting where ever it will fit. Organized chaos. And thanks for the sensor replacement demonstration.
daddy designed and built this house himself, he put the washer and dryer right in the kitchen. You can wash dishes, wash clothes, dry clothes, and cook beans all at the same time.
I've been troubleshooting and repairing my old Sears Kenmore gas dryer for almost 25 years now and I found that the burner valve solenoid coils can become weak over time. When this occurs there is not enough magnetism generated to hold the valve open and it will shut off. Just recently I had the flame ignite, burn for about a half minute, then shut off. I suspected the solenoid coils again; however, I had just replaced these only about five years ago. Turns out that the exhaust vent was completely blocked at the louvers outside the house. I removed the wad from the vent and now my dryer is back in service. Thank God I found this blockage and thanks to the manufacturer designed this machine to have temperature sensors in the dryers internal exhaust duct to monitor the temperature and shut down the machine if they sense a temperature above normal. We typically clean the lint screen; however, I had recently threw a bunch of burlap into the dryer after having washed it and I never experienced more of a mess than what this material made. I cleaned the lint screen and the next time I ran the dryer with normal fabrics in it is when the trouble began. A word of advise: don't run burlap in your machines. If you have the flame got out after a a short time, first check your vent for clogs as I had. You'll save a lot of time and money if that is the root of the problem.
@@DanWebster Hi Dan,, I currently have a kenmore electric dryer (model# 110.68632700) and the same issue keeps happening to me where it would run for a few minutes but then it would start to flutter and then eventually shut off. So I watched your video, bought the exact same part, installed it and the problem still persists ☹. Then I thought maybe the door switch is just going out so I removed it and bypassed it but I still have the same problem. Do u have any other suggestions as to what it might be??? I'm 2 seconds from throwing this one out the window and just buying a new one but I really don't want to admit just yet. Thank u for all of your help! 🙏
@@Z4P4T4 get the limit kit that goes on the heater and replace it. Apparently the 250f bottom limit has gotten weak and is shutting down the element allowing the timer to shut down
@@DanWebster Thank you so much! I'll call my parts store tomorrow, pick it up and install it and get back to you afterwards and let you know how it goes. Thanks again! 🙏
Thanks Dan you have given me enough information to be dangerous! Kudos. Expect to hear from me if this fixes my old KitchenAid electric dryer bought ~1997
I got a Maytag Centennial dryer that a neighbor put out to the curb. I was able to repair it for free. The only thing wrong with it was seized electrical contacts inside the timer switch. After separating the 2 contacts and sanding them a bit, it works perfectly.
When the bottom limit trips, the power for the element goes straight to the timer motor via the orange wire mounted on the lower heating element limit; it takes off and shuts off the dryer on them fancy auto dryer models like this one. Normally if the element ain't on and the control stat aint on, the timer moves over gradually to the end. Each time the heater element is not on the timer motor moves quicker. BUT, and that's a big butt, it moves like an Indy car when the orange wire has a shit load of juice running through it because the power ain't going to the element (the 250f limit has tripped, however, it will reset when it cools back down, unlike the small one up top which dies) but it's still being supplied by the control thermostat mounted next to the fuse on the blower. So if the control stat is a little sluggish or slow about shutting down or not shutting down at all causing an overheat condition, swap out the control thermostat, its the only thing that controls the heat on this dryer. All other components are safety devices. -PawPaw
@@MathCuriousity Limits are mounted on the heater element the base limit is 250 f the top limit is 300 the white thingy on the blower is the fuse, beside it is not a limit it is the heater control stat.
@@DanWebster so can we say that on nearly all dryers we have a thermal fuse, a high limit thermostat and a cycling thermostat? What is the rule of thumb in terms of where specifically within the dryer we can find each? Thanks again! Love u.
@@DanWebster so that dryer you have has FOUR thermostats? A high limit, a thermal fuse, a cycling thermostat, AND whatever is on the blower you mention?!
STRAIGHT TO THE POINT I LIKE IT *NO STUPID DOGS AND CATS NO FUGLY KIDS NO LAME GIRLFRIEND NO BS AND NO YAK YAK YAK IF I MAKE THIS LONGER ILL BE FAMOUS CRAP * I COMMEND YOU MY SOUTHERN BROTHER!!!
Thanks im the man of the house in this case so this will help me fix my dryer.. i already cleaned out ventilation thinking it was that nope, heating element is good just same issue as yours hoping too get mine back working
Dan, thank you so much. My friend has a dryer exactly like the one you fixed on this video. You pinpointed his problem You are great. I have hit the like button and subscribed to your channel!
Nice job PawPaw, wanted your opinion on Speed Queen washers and dryers, we bought a new commercial duty washer and dryer from Speed Queen and the salesman said they are some of the best on the market. I know you know your stuff when it comes to major appliances. I hope they last us a long time. The washer is just a regular clothes washer, not one of those High Efficiency kind. Thanks PawPaw!
Danny Rumbles as long as you purchase a speed queen from 2017 or before you’re ok. The 2018 models and moving forward are pure junk. They’ve completely redesigned them and they’re very similar to the low end top,loaders for $400
Hi Dan. Your video was great and I got the cycling thermostat thinking it would fix my problem but it didn’t fix it. It was actually the thermal fuse above it that was my problem so I wish you would have went that step further with the thermal fuse being the issue. So I bought both parts which I needed to anyhow to know the issue. Other than that very helpful. Thank you.
when that fuse blows on an electric dryer the dryer will not run at all but on a gas dryer the dryer will run but the heat portion is inoperable. You must have a gas dryer.
In the auto dry style dryer, the timer motor is slowed way down by the heater element. If the clothes are damp the heat will be applied more and the timer motor will be retarded by the orange wire in the heater limit. As them clothes get dryer, the load from the heater is less and less and when the heater is not on the timer motor is a tad faster and works its way on over. If the cycle thermostat is calling for heat but the limit is tripped the timer will rapidly advance to the end of cycle.
I won’t pretend I understand anything you said here! But I have a question : I got a GE gas dryer 2018, it spins fine when no clothes are in. But if I put clothes in, it seems like it begins to spin for a fraction of a second, then shuts off. Any ideas?!
@@MathCuriousity open the door and reach and turn the dryer by hand, it should be very easy to turn VERY easy. If it aint then you have an issue with the glides that the drum rides on I suspect. That can cause the motor to heat up on overload. Note if it tuns only when yore button is pressed you have a broken drive belt.
@@DanWebster I’ll be honest with you Dan. I put a soaking wet very heavy blanket in the dryer (washer wouldn’t spin dry it !), and it actually dried the entire blanket - but since then it’s been broken! It runs fine with no laundry in it! Soon as I put even a small load in dryer, I press button and it won’t start spinning, only an odd noise for a second. Here is one other clue for you Sherlock: I decided to hold the start button down for five seconds - not only did it start spinning with the small load - but when I let go of the start button - it kept spinning- for 10 min - then it stopped. Given all of this - what say you?
@@scotta9114 the lightning knock out the att modem and spiked the ethernet card in the pc so I have ordered a ethernet/USB adapter to connect up to the pc and see. Meantime I am on the chromebook, which is cool.
I came here because my daughter said her's has burning smell then shuts off. However she uses usually on the lower heat setting. But this time she ran full throttle like her car.
i put a 2020 face mask over the door by the start button to force the button further in. voila, my dryer works fine. try it first before replacing parts.
I have an Amana dryer, less than 5 years old. It would run from anywhere to 3-5mins on high heat before shutting off. I changed the same element you changed and it ran a full cycle of 40mins on high heat. I used the dryer again right after that and its doing the same thing. My dad checked all the fuses and they all have low readings of 0.03. Any suggestions on what I could try next? Please help
Thanks for the video. My Dryer has 2 sensors and 1 Fuse, NOT 3 Sensors, so it didn't really help me? Plus I couldn't see how many contacts each sensor had, even though I paused several times. Thanks anyway, Joe
Watched this again. Are you saying if the cycling stat goes out and thr hi-limit takes over, the dryer will stop running? I thought it would still run but cycle at a higher temp, 220f or whatever the hi-limit is rated at. As far as the temp controls on the rear of this dryet are concerned, I thought the only thing that would make the dryer quit running were the thermal fuse on the blower housing and the thermal cutoff at the top of the element housing. Correct me if I am wrong. Not dissagreeing just confused.
well we know the dryer will run if the 300 degree limit is tripped. (that is the small one at the top of the heater housing) We know the dryer will not run at all if the skinny white 350f limit melts as it is not resetable. So it must be reasonable to believe the motor is shutting down and stopping the dryer in an overheat situation by that 250f limit at the base of the heater housing.
So the dryer died again and it was on a sunday. My dryer next door the switch broke on it. I was waiting on a new door swich to be delivered found one cheap on ebay $8. So i went next door and borrowed the control stat off of it. So it shut down again. With my dryer control from next door. The only other thing I can figure is this crappy alum vent piping and the old pipe going outside. I had checked it and could feel airflow but I guess it was not enough air flow. So I got out my shop vac and blowwed out the shit and low and behold. It back working like new. Gotta get some better vent pipe and fix that.
So you are saying the hi limit at the bottom of the heating element cage was kicking the dryer motor off?? Not arguing with you Pawpaw, just a little confused. Running then coming back on after cooling would lead me to believe the motor itself eas overheating. Actually, it may be that the faulty stats were letting the mitor overheat if they AND the motor were getting a little on the weak side. Otherwise, the motor should run up to the rating on the thermal fuse, right? Then again, anything can go bad on its own such as the non-resettable thermal fuse. I agree, this can be a little hard to diagnose I guess. But, I would think the new thermal fuse and the motor still stopping might point to a motor on its way out?
Awesome .....thank you ......now it gave me a clue to look for something ....My dryer is Kenmore ELITE Smartheat QuietPak 9 HE5 ....hopefully i can find the thermostat and see if i can fix it.THANK YOU
@@DanWebster Hello there So i did end up replacing the thermistor and it worked now the problem is that when i chnage the thermistor it just does one load and after that it doesn't even start.So i ordered like 4 pack of thermistor and the problem is same.I have been watching a lot videos and tired to clean everything and still problem is the same ,Some are saying they had issue with the pully ,some say the control board and other say the dust and in my case it chnaged the whole vent to brand new from the dryer to all the way outside becasue i wanted to stack my both washer and dryer on top each other,so not sure if that messed up something physically.and also i do remeber that one time it had error code and wasn't starting so i wathed yourtube and i was able to sort the electrical board with copper wire ( ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-eWqrn5klxm0.html ) hope someone has answer for this problem ,i dont want spend money and buy everything like electrical baord + Element + all the fuse and thermistor again and end up on the same spot.So wondering if i should just get both new (washer and dryer)Thanks
Dryer wasn't drying so I replaced the Thermal Fuse, Thermistor, Thermostat and the Thermal cut-off. Heat cycles on for minute or two cycles off for a minute and then the dryer shuts off.
if your filter is inside the door at the base, which I suspect is the case, under the filter inside is 2 sensor strips. Wash them with windex and stop using cheap fabic softening sheets.
@@DanWebster Ok. I will take a look. Probably send a picture but I had the blower cover off this morning and put all of the aforementioned in and don't remember any sensor strips. Thanks Dan. Will get back to you tomorrow.
usually when the small disc is tripped it is because the vent hose or the outside vent is clogged; it could be a lint buildup, snow, water in the vent from rain filling up the exhaust in the foundation slab, and in attics also.
You ever had a dryer that will only work in the cool down setting? It will not turn on in any other setting except cool down, but the element does get hot as well? Thinking timer but wanted to see if you've come across this before.
all this part does is make and break the flow of electricity to the heater assembly as long as the the 2 big wires are on the the big terminals and the 2 small waires are on the small terminals. Their is no way to connect backwards. Its alternating currwnt no neg or pos terminals.
The part i replaced was the control thermostat. The control thermostat is what turns on the heat all during the drying cycle. I suspected the thermostat was fatigued and not shutting down fast enough. It was getting hot enough to make the safety limit at the base of the heater to shut down. I also have blown out the vent to outside with my shop-vac making sure a clear path for airflow to the outside was there. It works really good now.
I know - third question : so let me get this straight: the co troll thermostat should be turning on and off throughout the cycle and if it doesn’t turn off it can’t regulate heat and then it becomes too hot? Or the fuse (which is what u call a limit?) gets too hot?
Still haven't found anything that describes my problem. Dryer stopped mid cycle. Hit start and it ran for a few seconds and quit again. Now, I hit start, tried to start as I hold the bottom, but never does. In a few seconds it does and I have to wait several minutes before it will do anything. Drum turns slowly.
is your dryer one with auto dry which goes by the amount of time the cycling thermostat shuts down OR the sensing strip type dryer which works on how wet the clothes is by monitoring the wetness when the clothing rub against the sensor based behind the dryer filter. if no wetness then the program goes ahead and pushes forward to the end of cycle to save energy.
sensor type dryers monitor wetness. As clothes rub the resulting discharge between strips retards the time for the dryer to advance to the end of cycle. If some shit gets on the strips and interferes with the dampness then the dryer control may assume the shit is dry and shut down. of course if the thermistor (new fangled thermstat for cycling) is wankers then maybe that is it, but I know nothing about computer-driven crapola.
That didn't work. Another thing I noticed, when I'm holding the start button, it drains my lights(they dim), until it eventually makes a click sound and stops.
Dan, I have GE Stackable washer dryer unit. GUD27ESSJ1WW. The dryer typically shuts off just after a couple of minutes of heating up. Sometimes it will do the whole cycle but usaully we have to wait several minutes to try it again. Would you suggest a replacement of the thermostat for starters? Thanks, Duane
@@DanWebster Thanks ! Appreciate it. I replaced the thermostat in my old Maytag and it's running good now. But in mine the heating element is down to the right of the drum. It was a simple fix
thank you Dan, this old dryer motor will run about half a minute then cut off; even in " air dry " on the timer . i cleaned up the centrifugal switch breaker points so the dryer would heat up again ' the dryer did warm up, so i shut it off. On the second time i try to run it , it started this latest mess of now cutting off after half a minute or so. After another 30 seconds you can hear the reset click on and smell electric wires burning I will look at the motor again for a short circuit but i suspect the centrifugal switch that i cleaned the contacts are causing this old machine to refuse to work. help help
@@DanWebster no worries suspect dryer was dormant for a few years. motor ran but no heat. turns out (second tear down) the breaker points arm was "frozen" so i used wd-40 to allow brass centrifugal switch arm to move again and got the thing to work without tripping the over temp breaker . may try lithium grease if wd-40 dries out over time. thank you for all your help. you rock, Dan !
I have a roper dryer that's shutting off after two minutes its all connected and looks the same as the dryer in this video, except there is no wires running to the top of the heater just at the bottom, and I don't see any wires that would connect to it, could that be my issue??
that is an issue if someone bypassed a limit but that aint whats stopping the machine. try running it on NO HEAT if it stays going swap out the same component I did on the blower housing.
What is that part called. I am having the same exact problem. Runs the whole time on air dry but once i turn the heat on it shuts off after a couple minutes
I have a Kenmore and it runs but no heat. It used to keep tripping the breaker after 3 minutes. I checked the receptacle and is 110 now. Did it blow the circuit? I also did a continually test on all the dodats and seem fine. Breaker are expensive and they are pushmaster. Should I replace the switch you showing anyway? Thank you
Did you check to see if the heater was shorted to the heater housing? Sounds to me like it is and when the motor is activated, the amp draw from the shorted element spikes and trips the breaker; because the heater circuit itself is not activated until the motor is in operation. When the motor gets up to speed the centrifugal switch allows power in the heater circuit to pass through terminal 1 and 2 and complete the heater's circuit.
Hi Dan. I have a Kenmore series 70 electric model 110.8860293 - just like yours. After about 5 minutes it trips the circuit breaker. Here's what I've looked at and I'm stumped... any ideas???? -Fails when empty - not weight issue -Runs ok without heat - maybe a heater (or heat) issue -Fails when all vent piping disconnected - not a block pipe issue -Inspect blower chamber - impeller clean, some debris removed -Resistance across Heating element 9.8 ohm - good* -Resistance across Thermal fuse 0.5 ohm - good* -Resistance across Thermal cutout 0.5 ohm - good* -Resistance across Cycling thermostat 0.8 ohm - good* --- this is the one you changed, but mine appears good. -Resistance across High-limit thermostat 0.8 ohm - good* (*Same resistance values right after cutout) -I observe heater coil going on/off/on/etc… - good -I cannot reset breaker immediately - INTERESTING -Bypass Thermal fuse - still fails -Bypass Thermal cutout - still fails -Bypass Cycling thermostat - still fails -Bypass High-limit thermostat - still fails
My dryer throws a sensing message and shuts off. Please help it work only for a few minutes when i put it in heavy duty mode but any other modes it won't run at all
Would this part failing also cause the dryer to run for a bit...shut off for a bit...then start running again??? I cleaned out the vent line which wasn't bad at all and the the thermal fuse jobbies seems to have continuity.
That's the high limit. It is rated for 300 f, if it blows its because the dryer hose is plugged up snow or bird nest in vent pipe to outside. It comes with its sister a 250 f limit on the base of the box both of them do not operate the heat temp they guard against overheating such as air blockage and improper control of the heat by the operating thermostat which is mounted on the blower box. You gonna want to replace both for obvious reasons if the 250 didn't shut down it didn't do its job neither. The operating thermostat mounted next to the skinny white fuse on the blower has four wires, two fat red wires are in the heater circuit the 2 small wire are connected to what they call a bias heater. It is inside the control thermostat and it heats up the bi-metal to make it klick off faster for knit and perma-press.
Excuse me sir ,my dryer heat for 2 minutes and stops heat all time ,I checked thermostat and press on it then back heat but just for while then shutoff and won't drying clothes , I should press on it at each time to back heating after it get a little bit cooled
My dryer stops after 1 minute yet if i run it on cool or low it will run the whole cycle. I already replace the part you have a few weeka ago, the thermostat, the thermistor and im not sure what would cause this. Inalso replace the cinteol board and rhe fromt control button panel. Any suggestions? I cant understand it. Im wondering if the motor might ve overheatinf. Thanks if you can help me. I replaced the fuse too. Maybe its bad again??
turn the drum by hand it should be very easy to turn if it is not then that could be making your motor trip out on overload I seen socks in the blower that do this bad wheels drum felt and idler is what to check nexy put some 110 to blue and white and see if she runs check out my motor checker video: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-e3q8UmxDA7c.html
@DanWebster thanks so much. I will.look tonight. I will check that out. It's really old. I'm thinking it may be the motor overheating. It was so hot last night. It's electric. Hot to touch. I've replace almost everything but the motor and it is kind of making a squeeling noise. Maybe there is something in there. I replaced the wheels, the belt, all of the thernistat parts. The control panel, the front button panel.
That sounds like maybe something is bogging down the motor reach in and turn the drum and it should be easy easy to turn clockwise if its not easy to turn then your motor is overworked suggest a new idler and rollers if that is the case maybe drum seal also.
reach in and turn the drum by hand, it should be VERY easy to turn, if it stiff or hard to turn with wet clothes in it, you have a bad idler, wheels, or drum seal or all of the above. if it turns easily your motor is getting hot and quitting OR something done got inside the filter chamber and is causing motor to overheat. Take er apart and check everythang, clean it up, oil the rollers but not with any thing flammable, zoom oil or sewing machine oil only.
Are you saying the motor itself would run a few minutes and stop because of a bad operating stat or just the element would kick off? I can understand the element kicking off because of a bad operating stat. Btw, I have enjoyed several of your videos over a period of time Pawpaw.
New one on me. I thought the operating stat would only shut the heat off or let the dryer get too hot. Learn something new on these things pretty often it seems. I still have a hard time understanding it, since the stat is wired in series with the heat circuit.
@@rickeykeeton4770 on these models the heat is on the timer motor cant move because the orange wire from the 250 limit retards the motor. The element is hogging power from the timer motor. When the heat goes off the power is not retarding the timer motor and it speeds up.
My dryer look's almost identical to this one. My problem is my dryer just stopped working mid cycle and it won't come back on like there's no power getting to it. I had the power checked. It's getting power, so what could it be? The fuse?
Their is a lever inside the door jam that shuts down power when the door open. It should click. If it just wiggles with no click it could be the door switch. Check that first. If that is ok take the back off and check the skinny white 2 wire part on the blower/filter housing right next to that 4 wire control stat that I changed out in this video. If it open or blown the dryer will not run. If it is blown it might be you had a vent blocked or a bunch of blockage in the blower/filter housing.
At 2:47 you talk about something “costs a sh!tload less”, but you edited out what you were talking about!!! Why did you do that??? Obviously that was part what fixed the issue right? What was it?
I just changed my thermol fuse and it runs for a while and shuts off to. If you don't mind me asking what is the name of the part you just put on because I think that is what I need.
no its a shorted element most likely when it goes on high the wires bend and touch the side of the housing. might could reposition it where it aint so close to the housing? Let me know
Well dryer will run but eventually trip the thermal fuse so it runs cold. Replaced both fuses and the other low main fuses check out with the ohmmeter but soon trips again to cold. Any ideas?
yes any of those that do not have continuity in the red circuit (fat red wires) will stop the heat. In order for the heat to come on the following components must have continuity: The timer has a big fat red wire going so check that point to any other terminal on the timer with the timer unplugged from the rest of the components, if you cannot get a read from that red terminal to any other terminal on the timer it is bad. Next is the motor centrifugal switch, the motor must be running to complete the red circuit to the heater. next is the limits on the heater then the heater then the control stat all of which must have continuity. If all of that is good then you probably have a bad circuit breaker. The motor runs on 120 volts bt the red circuit needs 240 volts.
its a real good idea to clean out the lint if this problem occurs and clear the vent to outside. Here us my video: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-LE_qudXd3u0.html
