Whirlpool Electric Dryer Not Completely Drying Clothes. Heating Element Shuts Down After a Short Time and Doesn't Come Back On. Thermal Cut Off Thermostat Timer
I had the same problem, additional problem was that it would take a month and $100 to get a new switch from the appliance store. I took a toothbrush and cleaned the switch and the element. I put it all back together and the dryer is working great! Thanks for the video
Thanks for the vid. I'm running into a similar issue on my Crosley dryer, which is just a rebranded Whirlpool. It will run and heat fine for a certain amount of time, then it will just stop heating. I've checked continuity on all the thermosisters, the thermal fuse, and even the heating element and everything tested out good. I've also went through the vents and made sure they were clear. Looks like I am at the same juncture as you and will just replace the upper and lower ones, because I've already verified the cycling thermostat is working properly.
Thanks,thanks and thanks.I had a similar problem and almost gave up after 3 weeks of trying and testing everything in the dryer.i saw your video changed the thermostat and it worked.THANKS.
thanks for the info. my upper high heat tests open or bad but i cant find the upper by itself. so after watching your video i see that i have to buy the kit. thank you for taking the time to post your video.
I bought a second hand compact whirlpool with a same problem: pre-mature element shut-off. The seller didn’t mention any issues 🙄🙄🙄 I narrowed the issue down to the cycling thermostat on the blower housing. I did this by unplugging the connectors to that thermostat and electrical taped them together. I plugged my dryer back in and pushed start. My element stayed lit and didn’t turn off after 20/30 seconds like it had. I ordered a new cycling thermostat for $16 on eBay and my dryer is running brand new.
@@kitthomas7315 the part number he replaced was 279816, however, it was a different than the original, We have determined the actual original part number is 3977393 & 3977757 thermal cutoff switch, and cycling thermostat. we bought the kit of all 4 (3387134,3392519) on Amazon for $17.00 delivered same day
That is the one part I did not replace because it looked different (just a little bit,) from old one. But you mentioned you modified this one how did you do it, because dryer still doing same thing as before so of course it's the one part I didn't put on.
Mine is doing the same thing. I thought I fixed it just cleaning out lent and it ran a cycle after testing everything. I put towels in and start doing the same thing again. This was helpful.
When i put my dryer on timer setting and on it runs good but when it done it wont turn off i replaced all the trumanl in the back. And still dont turn off after cool down. Do u think i need to replace the timer knob in side the back of it ??
I have an Amana commercial dryer and it shuts off after doing many loads. I wait about a half hour then everything is fine again. I don't know if that is normal but maybe its supposed to do that to prevent it from overheating snd starting s fire. My wife washes many loads of clothes every 2 weeks. Maybe she should dry the clothes less time or not make the dryer work so much. I don't know if anything is actually wrong with the dryer or the safety mechanism is actually working. the heat is fine and it drys the clothes well. She does about 10 loads. After 3 loads it stops working and she waits the half hour. She has to do this after every 3 loads of clothes to dry. So it takes all day. Do you think something is wrong with the dryer or are we overworking the dryer? Thank you.
❤ hello thanks for posting this I have practically the same type of dryer that's doing exactly the same thing that you describe I got my back cover off and it looks exactly the same like yours. It's heating for a couple of seconds it shuts off and I think I have the same exact problem so I'm going to go and get the parts and see if this fixes it thank you
Ty for the video! You confirmed my suspicions. I think maybe that pc goes bad over time bc it gets easier & easier to make it hot enough to kick out. So it ends up kicking out way to early. But in theory still works so continuity checks out. Newaz thx again!
Question...I have a situation. When my dryer starts the flame would kick on but then after a few seconds it would turn off...then after a few long seconds maybe a min or so it would kick back on then in a few seconds will shut off....any thoughts on this??
Oh, and if you can wait a few days to get parts ApplianceZone.net has very low prices I replaced everything, all those little things inside there for less than 20.00. But will be opening it back up to put in the part that looked just a little different but came in pkg. with the other part.
I had the same problem you did, in my case it was real easy,once i took the back cover off that resistor was hanging off by the cables,it had detached completely from the heating element housing and the plastic/bakelite housing was cracked in several places, a no brainer, ha ha ha
My Dryer runs and gets hot, but after about 15 minutes it just stops. I can restart it after it cools? any suggestions.its about 15 years old. Inglis by whirlpool.
Thanks for the video. I was able to fix my dryer and figure out what was wrong using your video. I’m a 66 year woman that need to fix the problem myself in the middle of the coved 19 virus. Trust me I need my dryer. Stay safe Joe. Take care
I’m trying to figure out what my issue is with my samsung dryer it turns on for a like 30 seconds and than it just cuts off and doesn’t want to turn on anymore at all?? I checked the switches in my power box but I don’t know whats wrong with it can anyone help me? I’m guessing a belt switch but who knows?
Hey Joe, thanks for making the video an posting to RU-vid. if you do another, could you be specific when you say "continuity was a fail" ? I ask because these are resistors who's value changes with temperature, and saying if the resistance is close to zero (closed circuit), or near-infinite (open circuit), or in between (when it's warm it'll have some measurable value), that'd be helpful for those of us trouble shooting with a multimeter to figure out which thermal resistor (thermistor) is out of spec.
I have the same dryer. I notice that is was overheating and would turn off. i order the fuse and the one underneath the fuse with the 4 prongs also the Thermal Cut off thermostat timer and the one above as well. I check continuity and omhs on all 4 everyone was meter well. But that didn't fix my problem no sir, the heating element stop heating, I order one replaced my old one. Bam! still no heat! moved up to my setting and checked the dial housing and cleaned it up a little since it tested well. it clicks it moves. all I have is air. Help please
Im not sure what would cause your dryer to shut off but the most common things to check would be to unplug it, take off the back, remove the lint chute/pipe and clean it, check the resistors, and if your still at a loss, I would replace the resistors one at a time until I found which one was the culprit. I'm not a appliance professional but In my experience, the resistors are a common issue.
but wait, mine (upon first turning on) will run 23 seconds, then gas shuts off, then two clicks and the igniter lights up again and gas runs for 12 seconds, then off , then back on for 12 seconds, then off , then back on for 12 seconds and so on. the dryer never gets fully heated up and so clothes do NOT get dry (maytag bravos 300 gas dryer).
I would try something easy and replace your entire heating element assembly. Try a new cycling thermostat as well. It definitely isn't a problem with your thermal fuse. Could also be motor troubles but feel very doubtful of that.
In all of these videos I have never seen anybody reading the schematic that is usually folded up in the top of the dryer. It shows the names of the parts ant the colors of the wires connected to them. Over-temp thermal switches like the ones mentioned here rarely open and close like the operating thermal switch on the vent does so I would have replaced them both. I had the heater contacts in the timer switch and the contacts in the operating thermostat welded together and or sticking closed. The operating switch should open when the air coming out of the drum reaches about 150 degrees and lets the timer advance until the temperature drops to about 125 where the operating contacts close again to energize the heating element and allowing only 120v to be across the timer that needs about 240v to operate. As an electrician it drives me nuts too but if you have the same voltage on both sides of an appliance motor it doesn't turn and is off until the contacts in the operating switch opens and the motor sees about 240v through the heating element and advances a little bit until the air coming through the drum is cooled enough by the wet clothes to cause the operating thermostat to close it's contacts, sending voltage to the heating elements and causing the timer motor to only see the phase 1 or A on both sides of the motor and stopping it from turning and advancing the cams in the timer. I was able to separate the contacts in the timer switch and file them flat with a jewelers file and put a thin film of vaseline on them and the other contacts, as long as I had it open but the operating thermal switch is a replacement part. You can test thermal switches with a heat gun and a meter but wear gloves.
