DSP is a game changer for sure. I'm running DIY quad-amped 4-ways in my living room, all crossovers via MiniDSP Flex 8. It's unbelievably clean, controlled, with rock bottom distortion levels. For both mobile and home hifi, it changes everything. Love it!!!
DSP don't start until the Dayton 408 then up from there, with the Dayton you'll eliminate the need for a lc2i as its also a converter as most dsp's are with each channel having its own independent eq
Bro I totally get what you said there. I achieved this same thing with AM3D DSP in my phone. It enhances the long bass notes so loud and kinda nerf the beats which allows you to turn up your amp even more.
how is that better tho I'm curious? if you're turning it down.. to just turn it up on your amp how is that any different. just leave it the same.. not saying to not get a dsp. I need one it sounds like lol. but I can't see how that changes anything.. to get something to 'stunt' the sound so you can turn it up more. aren't you just turning up stunted sound now?
@@zanechristiansen I prefer my sub to play between 25hz-60hz. Crossover on amp will cut at these frequencies at 12db slope only means your amp and sub is still working to play frequencies outside this window. If you have clip light on your amp, you'll notice your amp clips at the beats way earlier than it would clip at long wave bass notes. These beats lies between 60-160hz and your amp is wasting resources towards these frequencies when the goal is to get as loud as possible below 60hz. So, when you have dsp you can set the crossover with much steeper slopes i.e. 12,24,36,48db. With 48 db octave you will almost eliminate everything over 60hz or any frequency that you set for you LPF. Now you can turn your amp a bit more since it's work load has been reduced.
@@oscarishandsome5150 interesting. for me it just depends on the song, some will clip with the bass knob being just past 2/3. which clips every bass signal, punchy or 808, some don't clip at all with it all the way up. I just got my shit set up with new shit and I'm tryna figure out these settings cuz this sub should be slamming so much harder than it does.. when I think its slamming hard it's clipping like a bitch even tho the amp says it isn't .. i know because the sub gets stinky and warm after like 1 song. that's why I'm feeling like I need a dsp simply to gain voltage in the rcas and hopefully be able to turn gain down.. I got an oscilloscope but it just doesn't fuckin work or I'm retarded cuz it does not show me I'm clipping.. gain is like nearly all the way down tho it's like. from all the way down. it's like 2mm maybe 2.5mm turned "up" .. the gain is.. it just seems ridiculous that a jp23 ran off a mechman 240a alt. xs power agm, 1/0 big 4... 8.5 cubic foot box tuned to 28hz, psi platform 4 18 inch... and I see youtube videos of lil skar 12 inch set ups flexing windshields and panels way more than my shit does. it's annoying lol I've spent like years on this build and tbh I'm just very unimpressed like yea my shit finally hits low notes like it never had before... but my shit should float shit with a box and sub this big in a tiny lil cobalt. and it barely moves my mirrors my only other thought process is that the jp23 is not even close to what this sub wants so even tho nothing says I'm clipping. I probably am.. and probably need more amplifier so I can actually feed it a clean signal.. like my electrical is there. i have everything lol.. it just doesn't fucking do anything idk
@@zanechristiansenthat’s what I’m trying to figure out…. My amp literally has every setting…. Hpf lpf gain lol I don’t think any dsp is worth it unless it’s $500+ and using a mic
@ssjdavid and my head unit that was 100 dollars has lpf, gain, phase settings, speaker timing and balancing, etc, basically most things the dsps have. the dsps just have it all neatly laid out in a unit that has knobs for every setting, compared to having to deal with tiny buttons on a 1×8 digital clock style display (Kenwood single din)
@@GTILOUD well once u learn and switch, you'll never go back lol. I had 250lbs of agm batteries at one point. And this 30lb lithium blew them out the water! And is alot easier on my air suspension lol. You can get a super beast from battery hookup for $285 and make a 96ah bank from it. It's pretty cheap honestly.
The manual don't tell ya nuttin either lol. The stetsom, taramps and prv ones are all the same with different names stamped on em. But I watched a tutorial on RU-vid on mine to get me started. And I still learn something every time I mess with it.
@@1ohmwrecker I was about to say, they look like twins but with a different name on them. I may have to check out some videos once I get into my wiring stage of my build. Thanks for the heads up bro! 👍
They really make that much difference Fam? I got to get one! I've looked at them a few times. I do have a EQ I need to hook up. But got to check out the DSP👍😎💯💨💨💨
Yeah it helped me tremendously! But I use a Lc2i so I have no type of crossover and you know taramps crossovers aren't the best. So it just let me tap into every bit of power I can get. And my bass at say 28hz is so much stronger. And once it gets 36-40hz I have it drop off cuz I only like the lows. It let's you customize everything! And gives you a slow amp turn on/off. You can get each channel to sound however you want. And this PRV one was only $100.
You need one of these if you use the factory head-unit for your install. Factory sound is usually bass boosted around 50-60Hz, attenuates starting around 40Hz, and the signal isn't high voltage, so the bass sounds off because of the 60Hz overprocessing and it clips easier at lower volumes because of the 60Hz gain and the overall low signal power. The signal needs to be boosted and equalized. You can probably do most of this with the dsp on your phone audio app.
Lol the signal needs to be separated from highs mids and Sub . While hook up to a factory head you are not getting a clean where it cuts off a certain point Butterworth filter roll off
Hello! Can you tell me. Its can help me for better bass from subs? I have SHIT car Mazda 6 2007r, which can change car body acoustic from second to second. All low notes is shit, which are improving! I tried a lot, last resort is a DSP.
With a dsp, you can cut whatever bass note to drop off significantly. Like my dsp is set to be strongest between 26 and 38hz, and drops of rapidly at any higher or lower than that. It was a game changer when I first got it. Plus you can run your highs thru it. You can set each channel individually. Takes a bit to understand it tho. But the one I got is only $100, and great for someone just getting acquainted with a dsp.👍
That's rough to try and explain lol. I had to mess w it for a while to get it right. And having to get in and out the car hundreds of times 🤣 next one will deff be Bluetooth lol. But I got it to be it's strongest between 26 and 38hz. If that's what ur setup likes, then that's the best bet. My peak is 33hz and does a 147.8 DB. Literally all the knobs on my amp are all the way off. Only thing turned up a little is my gain, ya know. If the settings on your amp are filtered, the dsp won't beable to work efficiently.
@@1ohmwreckerso you only use gain on amps and leave the rest alone? For mids/highs and bass amp? And the dsp tunes the lpf/hpf and subsonic and all that?
You gotta work for NASA to tune one of those things you need a RTA The EQX isn't much easier. It's just more hands-on.,, The e q x Goes to 31hz to 16 khz It brings it into three categories for you lowe's full range And highs It also comes with a line driver. And a clip input indicator.
Thanks for your help..so all you do is save the settings to the dsp and it’s locked in doesn’t matter if you remove the battery or if the battery it’s dead?
@@1ohmwrecker how would the wiring be if you connect the dsp to a 4 channel amp to the 4 speakers. Would the amp be the powering 4 speakers with one input. I’ve seen people use the dsp just like this to power different speakers with one input.( those big speaker systems) but how can someone use this dsp for a regular 4 channel speaker system and a sub? Thanks for responding by the way
@lokomono89 well that's kinda deep lol. So you'd want to run optical thru your car to do it in one swipe to the dsp. You know, the home audio cable that's been used forever with the red infrared light that'll transfer Dolby digital. My car uses optical but I converted it to analog for cost savings. I may one day. There'd be zero interference.
@@1ohmwrecker something like that. I know people run these kind of dsp in their systems, but I want to know how they wire it. I’ve seen these dsp used in bigger systems, where they separate all the speakers with different frequency to a channel. But I want to know how to do it with a regular 4 channel with a sub. I don’t know about optical or analog lol. Is there a video that best explain this?
You need a stereo and a better amp with lower crossovers setting ... that would be the only down fall I have on the smart 5 ,reason why I sold it ,mind you I had the same dsp as well just didn't sound good ,till I got another amp with better crossovers problem fixed lol
Cuz at that time I had a factory radio still using a Lc2i. So it was only hooked up to sub output. But now I got my highs and everything running thru it.
and THAT DSP is the cheepo .... stop playin with walmart DSP and move up to MiniDSP 8x12 with Dirac and get some SERIOUS tuning .... that's when you'll say "I didn't know my system could sound this good " ..thank me later
