I bought my second Aiyima A07 Max to test them as monoblocks - twin amplifiers working in mono mode. Check out my findings, as usual - leave questions etc. in the comments!
Jlh 1969 class a amplifier board and smps is by far cheapest way to hifi I reckon. But you have to have your hands dirty a little bit. Not so effortless as you suggest. Great video. Thanks.
Thank you! Actually I like to get my hands dirty this way. But I hate building cases (I usually create crippled monsters that are beautiful on the inside) and I love great looking equipement so I build only small stuff. I was looking at 1969 boards, the other contender were DartZeel clone boards. Some day, some day... ;)
@@k4syx I built one jlh 1969 amp. Easy and great sounding one. Musical fidelity a1 with some Humm noise, ommitable. And now Nelson pass aleph 3. Surprisingly cheap meanwell smps works better than transformers in my case. And make the build very easy.
@@tamayaytam smps - actually this is a great idea. I would add a capacitor bank after smps to have some additional filtering, or maybe a small LPS working with regulated DC input to have as clean power as possible.
@@k4syx I think it is not a good idea to put capacitors after smps due to their working principle. I didn't try it but I read some comments about it. You should check before doing so. I used troidal or standard transformers and crc filters of 40000 uf for each channel. Smps is better in result. I am not an expert but I benefit from youtubers' experiences. And I choose the boards they succeed as there are lots of iterations of the boards and they don't give the same result. And sorry to inform you that I haven't seen any successful dartzeel application upto now.
Your linear poser supply, at least on mine, the 24 volt output is only with one device connected. When you plug that second amp in, the voltage is actually less, as are the amps going to each device. I ran into issues with a similar 12v power supply, and had to unplug one of the devices to get the intended device to work properly. this should be in the manual that came with the LPS.
It gets from 24.1 unloaded to 23.9 loaded, so 0.2V drop - works just fine with no problems. The limit is the wattage on this particular LPS, its 25W total (regardless of number of devices connected). But 25W of clean power is good enough unless you need to do a disco night in a classroom sized place ;)
The best sounding opamp for the aiyima A07 and the A07 max is the phillips NE 5532...for a hi end sound...the hood 1969 class A just for 170 euro....thats a bargain!!
Has anyone tried powering these with batteries (e.g. a 36V or 48V battery for an electric bike or scooter)? I believe that should be the cleanest power source possible. And what are your recommendations for opamp upgrades?
Yes, that would be the cleanest power supply, neat idea :) As for opamps - opa1612 best price to value, then opa627 or even opa828 for me but that's because I've already had them (they are expensive!)
I don't understand. The original op amps are NE5532 (dual). The OPA627 is single. Aiyima relates muses01/02/03. However muses03 is also single. To replace an existing double opamp, can I replace it with a single op amp? It seems that this is what was done, in this video and in the previous one about analyzing the a07 max. Is this correct? Is it recommended? Can anyone help me understand this concept? Thanks
Opa627 and opa828 are single, yes, bit you can buy them soldered to little PCBs with dip8 pinout effectively making them dual. I don't know about Muses 02 but cheaper Muses (8892 or something like that) are dual
@@k4syx I purchased two new AIYIMA A07 MAX amps, to use in mono mode, replacing a TOPPING TP20 MARK2. I purchased the topping in 2012, if I'm not mistaken, it was released in 2008, and given the time that has passed, I thought it was time for an update. I was excited when I saw the launch of class D amplifiers, with the ability to use them in mono mode, for better channel separation, something only seen in more expensive equipment. However, despite being much less powerful, for the size of the room and the power of the speakers, TOPPING sounds better. One of the advantages is precisely being able to update the op amps. This would be the next step. Aiyima lists the following description on the product page: Replaceable Op-Amp Chips: OPA2604AP, OPA2134, MUSEO1/02/03, LME49720NA, LM4562, AD827AQ, etc I was prone to MUSES03, which appears in the list above. I contacted them by email if there was any indication, and they recommended LM4562. And when I asked about MUSES03, they responded as follows: Muses03 chip cannot be replaced because it is a single operational amplifier. I asked the same question to the store that has the op amps for sale. They are all DIP8 (single or dual), and they responded to me as follows: Hello my friend, 5532 is dual op amp, you can only replace it with another dual op amp, like muses02. Muses02 is dual, muses03 is single. I see recommendations for op amps with good value for money, but which are singles, OPA627 and OPA828. I didn't want to buy several, but to make a good investment in one that was recommended for this type of system. 2x a07max in mono. In my country, up to 50 dollars I pay 20% tax on the value of the product. From US$50, the tax burden is 100%. I pay in taxes the equivalent of the value of the product. Up to 50 dollars, even for one unit, would be the maximum amount I am willing to pay for the product. Considering that the entire system is not made up of expensive equipment, it doesn't make sense for me to purchase a pair of sparkos for 160 dollars and pay another 160 dollars in tax. The main issue is not comparing the prices of those that fall into this range, but knowing the possibility of use. That is, a single opamp, on an AIYIMA A07 MAX. I can make other improvements in the future, such as changing the connection cables and speaker cables for better quality ones. They are not expensive, and are worth the investment, presenting a gain in each component of the system. And finally, perhaps replacing the original sources (GaN 48v 5A) with linear sources. Can anyone help me with the indication of replacing the opamps with one that can actually be used in the equipment? I also checked with AYIMA that I don't need to replace all the OPAMPS, to use in the MONO configuration, just the socket at the front of the equipment. Thanks :)
@@lorenz5352 ok opa627 and opa828 can be bought mounted on dual setup dip8 converters. One chip on top, the other on the bottom. This would give you dual opamp (exactly as I am using them). But yes, the budget will be a problem (I hate unreasonable taxing). You can get cheaper and almost as good OPA1656: this is dual natively, so the converter is just to make it fit in dip8. Take a look at these (I got them some time ago as I'm going to do opamp shootout in some future): a.aliexpress.com/_Ew5qd8X
@@k4syx Now I get it. I rechecked your previous video that opens the amplifier case. When you mentioned that two chips were needed, and the board had two opamps installed, I thought you were referring to two chips, one for each channel. Looking closer, you can see that the dip has two op amp chips, one at the top and one at the bottom. I hadn't noticed. Thank you for all your attention and guidance, my friend.
@@k4syx Is the monos unneeded for my tweeters (Magnepan) so I should go stereo or there be a clear audio advantages to doing Mono? Any other tips? Thanks
@@k4syx To clarify, I'm looking at Class D amp because of heat, and it's only to drive a pair of extra Magnepan tweeters to act as a super tweeter. So I thought a pair of Chi-amps with an equalizer would do the job. I wasn't expecting to cost more than $400. Thanks
Honestly, I don't know. However, remember that these are dual opamps, so having two of them doesn't necessarily mean that they are for left and right channels. This may be 2 stage circuit in which any opamp handles both channel but their purpose is different. I haven't analysed the board layout closely so I cannot tell you either way :(
@@ThorRavnsborg To run Mono blocks, replace the op amp at the front side of the amplifier, closest one to the volume knob. Then, remove the other op amp towards the rear of the amp, and leave that channel open. You do not need one there, and most folks note that there is an overall improvement in sound quality.
You only need one opamp for the channel from which the signal passes. The other channel is better kept empty. I use the same configuration for my za3 in mono mode. So one pair of opamps is enough. I also emptied the slot for the sub out since i'm not using it, to save power.
