Thanks to a knowledgeable friend's advice I had the intercooler modified to keep piping from running over top these new battery boxes. Twin batteries are an obvious choice for subzero starting, winches, huge lights, backup & offgrid power, not to mention supplying the living quarters in back, +more! And I'll probably swap the battery with the positive near the fender for the same battery with reversed poles, for safety's sake.
Really nice work, so many great upgrades on this truck ! All done by yourself... bet some 4x4 magazine would be totally down to do a story on this rig !
I have so many more ideas to do to it! That would be nuts, but it can be pretty fun to explain all the weirdness of this build to people that are curious.
Look at those pretty inner fenders, I wish had inner fenders that pretty! Hell I wish I had inner fenders.😂 I wasn’t sure what I was going to do about battery boxes, and then I stumbled on a “new in box” Smittybilt Jk dual battery mount for $25. I have to cut it and mod it for my use, but I figured the steel to make it would cost that much.
Keep watching your build videos for ideas...and being perpetually jealous of your engine bay. You have ROOM. My Ranger? Yeah, not so much... Didn't realize you fabricated those boxes, really good work. Could market those...EBay, nuf sed. LOL Loved watching the penetration lines at 9:00 and 10:45. Very cathartic...and yes, I said penetration. Edit: Got my 200amp Alt and VSR today...time to mount my D51 and build the amp/inverter rack.
Yeah I feel you though, my last truck project was a ZR2 that had it's V6 packed in there. I was genuinely surprised how that weld glow showed thru that part with all the sunlight backlighting me!
I admire the way you over engineer your work, The Victorians' did the same and lot's of their work is still in use today, ( Why use one bolt when you can use three, )
Hey Tinker quick question! I see you used spray paint to cover the work in the engine bay, what kind of paint was it exactly? Like was it the type of paint that already had clear? The finish looks fantastic from my perspective, just curious since my engine bay is also white but alot of grime and scruffs are showing through. Thanks!
I swear RU-vid notifications are trash lol Thank you Tinker! I totally appreciate it! I'll look into to seeing if I can find something that can match my Subaru's glacier white
In your experience, can you spray paint a gloss coat over something pre-coated with POR15 if you wanted to protect something but still have a nice finish?
Yep! You want to give it plenty of time to cure, but top coating is actually something they recommend, especially if the part is always in sunlight (base coat is weak to UV light).
Cool. Thank you. Btw, I second the motion-this is my favourite series on RU-vid The attention to detail and cool-quotient of the project are ridiculous.
POR 15 is garbage to begin with, but especially useless when applied to shiny smooth metal... Needs a gritty surface like after sandblasting to adhere...
@@Tinker1837 "POR-15 likes rusted surfaces best. Seasoned metal and sandblasted metal are also good. POR-15 does not adhere well to smooth, shiny surfaces..." Right off their website. POR is a crap product. Epoxies are generally garbage and marketing scams. In the future go with a nice Polyurethane like Steel-It 1002G. However nothing adheres well to smooth shiny metal..
@@thingsforgotten2254 So now I know you didn't even watch the video... the metal I coated was completely roughed up with both coarse flap discs & wire.
@@Tinker1837 It is well acknowledge that rotary abrasion methods such as a wire wheeling and flap disc use do not effectively create what is called a "tooth" in metal surfaces. You are essentially just buffing the surface while removing more material. Good rule of thumb: If somethings shiny, the surface is smooth, and paint wont stick! Sand blasted surfaces never shine because they have excellent tooth. Abrasive blasting is best followed by random directional sanding. However my gripe is not your prep, its the POR. Time and again I see POR being used improperly on youtube, and then this gets repeated by subscribers with poor results. POR should NOT be used on clean metal, UNLESS it is sandblasted. Heck, don't use it ever! It's expensive garbage!!! Not UV resistant, poor adhesion, needs to be top coated, scam scam scam.
I have to be honest that I'm sensing some odd bias towards something you sell or work for/with. The experiences I've seen with it & other similar coatings have been fantastic. Yes I know anecdotal results are not the best. But all that being said I will look into your recommendation. I'm not someone who falls for the marketing nonsense, namely the sneaky thing many coatings try & sell that their coating right over muddy rust will last a lifetime. Doing the best prep that I can manage & I while taking these battery boxes to be blasted would've not been too difficult... can't exactly do that with the frame! I don't have a 6-figure shop, just making do with what I have, which in this case is a tired old leaky barn. In the future I hope to prep a frame properly, acid dip etc, but for now I do with what I have at hand. I have finite resources of both time & money.
Way to much steel and therefore way to heavy. And it looks like the battery is only pressed down by the foam the will be rattling round in two Years time when it wears out.
Nope, only a pound or two each. Steel will easily outlast anything else in an high vibration + acidic environment. Wrong again, the top strap is adjustable, foam just reduces potential noise.
Those mounts actually look like they'll outlast the vehicle. He fabbed the top mount to be basically touching the battery when there was no silicone on the bottom. When he puts the bolts in you can see they're angled because of the extra height from the added silicone on the bottom so those batteries are clamped in pretty tight. The foam looks like it's just to stop the battery from rubbing the steel.
![Dual Battery Boxes × 4BT Cummins Discovery #25 [Land Rover Build]](/img/logo.svg){kind=logo}
