Don't need the tape or holes with tape. The gap is perfect already for fae. Keep the normal lid on till fully colonized then just flip the lid or put the dub tub on top. No need for any modifications. If the feet get fuzzy just make the gap a lil bigger, simple as.
Start giving your tubs fresh air when it’s 75 to 80% colonized, don’t wait till it’s 100% colonized. This will give you a lot better chance of a really good pin set and a full canopy.
I used miracle grow on a jar that had a part of contamination I cut it off and crumbled it up and just used some potting soil and it's colonizing it great the mycelium has fingers reaching it looks like is this the first sign of pinning it was just an experiment so far cause it was a contamn cake so I chalked it up as a loss but there s no sigh of anything but good mycl growth so I just give it fresh air to fruits these oysters
Before I learned about being able to do this, I was using Azomite for gardening. When I started learning, I wondered if it would be ok to use this way as well. Then I saw someone post about it and felt good that I already had expeince with it and have used from first tub. Your tub set up fine tunes all the things I have read over the last year. Thank you so much.
Chronic Tek and straight bagged container with paper clips just like European GrowBox without any Sub and Casing, is becoming today’s most used methods Making Dub Tub an other great Addition. Thanks for this vid and your opinion about Azomite “
Great job, me likie, this tech is great for small crops, personal I call it, hehehe. But one exception, I prefer a liner, by the time the 2nd and 3rd flush arrive, the cake shrinks due to the mycelium eating the dirt (they also eat trees and rocks...) and so I prefer the dripping condensation from the sides to not enter the cake from the bottom but remain there as a rH control and it also proves to be advantageous when the cake shrinks, and side pinning can occur.
Thanks bro. I'm gonna produce some new ones in the coming month. I'm learning agar currently and I plan on sharing the basics once I am more technically proficient with it. Thanks for subscribing!
Really great video and very much appreciated. I know you mentioned in a comment that you do not mist them after they begin to fruit. Therefore I would imagine that you do not need a drain hole of any kind at the base. Do they really stay moist enough to fruit without misting? I purchased an expensive fruiting chamber with ionizer and lamp with lava rock/water for humidity. I put eight completely colonized cakes in and my results were zero. No contamination but no fruiting either. I could have saved myself a LOT of money had I just used your method. I will in the future. Thanks so much for your time.
If you properly prepare your spawn (soak oats overnight with pH neutral water) and medium (soak to field capacity)....you'll have a proper level of moisture that will allow a high humidity level in the dubtub.
Are you still trying to get into growing them? It’s a lot easier than it seems. Grain spawn will spread regardless of how much you put in, but obviously more means it will spread quicker. Don’t search for specific numbers as those will only make it seem harder, just eyeball it. Just make sure to make at least 2 layers of spawn within the substrate to be most efficient
hey man, thanks for this! I could use some guidance. I'm using grow bags, and the time is nearing for me to do something with them. I believe the next step is this...but how do I put them in the container? Is there a process for transplanting the growing spores from the bag to the tub? Any advice would be golden, teacher.
This is very similar to FunGuyFruits No Touch monotub method. I would recommend having a look if you havent seen it. I think he adds a few more air holes for circulation and then just leaves it until the mushrooms are ready to be cultivated.
Light does not really cause this problem, hence why painting tubs does nothing for this. Side pins occur due to microclimates on the sides of the tub caused by not packing the substrate evenly or tightly enough on the perimeter. The humidity and temp are ideal in that tiny space, and so the mycelium pins there opportunistically.
I'd just go 1:1 on the volume if you are just getting started. I have gone 1:3 before with great results, but I add extra azomite and pasteurize my sub to decrease the likelihood of any contamination.
I have been doing PF tek but I am looking to step up a little and this does not look too intimidating. I guess I would need a pressure cooker to sterilize the coco coir and the vermiculite substrate? I am also wondering how many typical 1/2 pint colonized pf tek jars would you need for crumbling into a small dub tub like that? Thanks for such a straightforward tek.
Old comment, but I wanted to make sure you got an answer. You don't need a pressure cooker. Coco coir is so low in nutrients that it really isn't a problem for mycelium, as contamination has nothing on it to feed off of. All you have to do is pasteurize it.l. I use x1 brick of coco coir, 2TBsp Gypsum, and a few cups of vermiculite and pour 15 cups of boiling water in with it in a home Depot bucket, and leave overnight. Then you're done with pasteurizing. Super easy.
Do yourself a favor and buy a pressure cooker. Also learn how to make agar. Finally get away from the PF Tek. These dubtubs couldn't be simpler and you get better pin sets and more consistent flushes.
Most people use 2 parts coir to one part vermiculite for their substrate. It can be made and pasteurized in a 5 gallon bucket, but I get less contams if I sterilize my substrate in a pressure cooker.
Just get some coir from pet store. Throw it in a 5gal Home depot bucket and add boiling water then seal the lid on. Stir after 30 min real quick and seal again. Once its cool and to field capacity its ready to go. If it doesnt work then your grain spawn or something else was bad.
When you remove the tape on 3 sides there isn’t any contamination risk? Also I can’t really see the holes on the side what size? Also what is the filter placed over them?
With a dubtub I'd recommend doing coir substrate because its contam resistant. As soon as you aren't under a laminar flow hood there's gonna be spores, so a monotub is just as non-sterile as this. 100% colonized substrate shouldn't contam until its weakened after multiple flushes, if it does it before then your spawn is dirty.
The cultures will begin to fruit when the substrate is fully colonized. You just have to make sure you have good fresh air exchange once you can see that the sub is all white and starts to produce pins/primordia. Light is not crucial to fruiting fungi. I find that the ambient light in my room is adequate.
I go 1:3 on my spawn: substrate. I use coir, vermiculite, and azomite. 650g brick of coir, 2 quarts of vermiculite, 1 cup of azomite, add water to field capacity. To pasteurize, I preheat my oven to 180°F then I place the sub in a large ceramic cooking pan and cover it with foil. I put it in the oven and let it cook for 3 hours. I remove the pan and let it cool to room temperature. Then I use it 1:3 with my oat grain spawn. It colonizes really quick. With proper care I can get 4 flushes.
@@grantswishes420 in the video you say that you only use 1 tablespoon of azomite, but here you say you use an entire cup. that's a HUGE difference. which one should i follow?
I have a question. I have 3 cakes from grow kits that I ordered that are still between being fully colonized and pinning. Right now they are in the plastic sacks that they came in, waiting to pin. Could I potentially break those cakes apart and combine two or all three of them into a tub like this? If I break the cakes apart into 2-3 inch deep area like you have here, would it hurt anything? I'm assuming the cakes are essentially the same thing you have in the tub here, right? Colonized substrate? Should I add anything like perlite? And if so, should I put something between the perlite and the substrate, like I thought I read that maybe a layer of foil or something? Thanks!
Yes you can break the cakes up! That's actually the best way to go about doing it! You will have a way better yield. I would search for "spawn to bulk" on the shroomery. It's very easy!
@@matthewking7191 hey thanks, so the cakes that come in the grow kit are "spawn "? And I want to turn it into bulk substrate? If the cakes are fully colonised, should you put the tub into fruiting conditions after turning it into bulk or will that substrate continue to colonise?
@@avi7278 that substrate will continue to colonize but some alot of people do not differentiate between the two. I would spawn them to shoeboxe tubs like these which are 6 quart tubs. It's very simple actually. Once you do it you will see! Have fun!!
Yes. Place a hygrometer inside rather than a thermometer. Hygrometers show temperature and humidity percentage. Also put place a nice toy Baby Groot action figure inside to keep them company (sterilized of course)
ok, just so im right, just taking the tape off the three side(edges) is enough to put into fruiting? just one piece of microtape on the holes leave them there, have it taped all sides shut untill full colonisation, then remove the three sides should be enough to promote the growth? what do you do for light and do you keep the same temperature
Did you wait 7-10 days with shoe box covered in a dark space before putting the dub tub together or did you put this together and expose to indirect light directly after mixing spawn into substrate?
I left the box sealed in my room after I assembled it with just ambient light. It's really an easy tek that is hard to mess up once you become competent at producing clean grain spawn and substrate.
He literally made the easiest way to cultivate harder. No need for all the holes. The tubs fit together do imperfectly that it allows for FAE. Just mix spawn/sub 3-4" deep and let it sit for 10-14 days. When droplets start to appear on the surface flip the lid or add the second (dub) tub.
@@grantswishes420 like your video just a few question. you are saying SEALED meaning no air exchange at all wont it kill mycelium with no oxygen i am following your tek putting brf cakes to bulk in coir closing the lid and not putting it in darkness since you already told its ambient light
@@brianblalock695 what about closing the lid no fae since i got a small tub which i want to put in fruiting chamber(those perlite fruiting chamber pftek) later when its ready 10-14 days later will that work also when there is no fae will green mold develop its 10-14 days?. sorry new to growing i am at level of brf and moving to brf bulk no good with grain yet.
Where can I find good spores in Maine? I wanna try to grow my own for micro dosing purposes but am having serious trouble finding syringes of spores. I hope you can help and I appreciate your videos and advice
Theres honestly so many good options spores themselves are completley allowed (if you catch my drift) so there isnt any reprecussion for buying or selling them like per say cannabis the world is your oyster good luck growing 🤙
so when it’s colonizing don’t touch it? no fanning or misting? and whenever i start to see pins how often do i fan the surface each day and how do i tell when and if to mist
Correct. When it’s fully colonized then fan and mist. 2-3 times a day. Make sure that evaporation is happening. If too much then don’t spray at that time. Spray a foot away and make sure it’s a light mist that lands on the surface.
I like Midwest Grow kits. I got a ultimate mushroom growing kit through them and i was pleasantly surprised how much they sent with it. You have to get your spores somewhere else though. I used Sporeworks.com They were fast and descreat.
Im pretty sure you do have to sterilise the substrate, and i think most people do it buy filling wide mouth jars with vermiculite or coco coir, leving the lid slightly unscrewed, and then they pressure cook the whole thing. Im not sure how you would do it without a pressure cooker tho, so you'll have to do some research if you dont have one like me.
Open the lid and fan it then mist. It’s helpful to measure your humidity and temp if you can but you can eyeball it. Make sure there is ambient light and the lid is open and fan/mist 3-4 times a day and you will get good fruits.
My first grow I misted directly onto the mycelium which made it start to look weird. I think I kind of hurt it. I didnt get contamination but my pins were coming up very randomly and sporadically. 1 day I'd had 3 mushrooms in 1 corner. A few days later in another corner. And so on. So now I just mist the lid/upper dubtub. I think that's why my pins were coming up sporadically. It still worked but i think i couldve had a much better yield but I damaged the upper mycelium/substrate conditions 🤷♂️🤦♂️
I'm still new, but yes. Some people add coffee as well, but you might want to research if that's over kill and or if itll increase your chances of contam. But I've heard that vermiculite also helps with that. You can also spray hydrogen peroxide as soon as you've mixed the sub and mic, all in your tub.
I use a 650g brick of compressed coir, 2 quarts of vermiculite, 1 cup of azomite (gypsum and powdered oyster shells also work), and water to field capacity. I don't add coffee because it's acidic and many contams thrive in acidic environments....that's why I use Azomite. It buffers the pH and makes it difficult for contams to get a foothold. If you add the Azomite and pasteurize properly...you are doing everything you can to prevent trich/cobweb/etc.
@@Jonah_Krsna_47 You don't need it to actually touch the substrate. Some people paint the outside of the container. If you can paint it, you can tape it.
@@CDCLLC2023 Paint does nothing. The liner is to prevent a micro-climate between the substrate and the container. You want the liner to cling to the substrate as it contracts.
Which is typically around 10 days. But that depends on what you're growing and the spawn to substrate ratio and obviously environmental conditions. But once the mycelium hair has generally spread over the entire surface you're good to go. I think he said in another comment he made that he doesnt start fruiting conditions till he sees pins. I dont think people typically do that. But it seems to be working for him if hes getting 1 to 1.5 oz dried mushroom per flush! Haha
So when my all in one bag gets colonized how do I transfer? I have 2 6 qt tubs and a bigger 12 qt. Do I just open the grow bag and dump it in after colonized on top of substrate? What do I need? Any help would be great!
Your all in one bags do not need to be transferred to substrate at all. The substrate is already in the bag hence the “all in one”. Once you see 20% colonization, mix the bag up nice & equally portioned. Then Let the whole block colonize. Then once it’s fully colonized 100%. Open the bag, remove the block from the bag and put into a tub to initiate fruiting conditions. Fresh air and humidity everyday will start the fruiting process. YOU DONT BREAK THE BLOCK , just let it be. All in one bags are a different method then what this guy is doing but it’s all the same pretty much. You’ll get bigger yields if you do tubs. They have bags that are only grain, that’s what you’re looking for if you’re trying to add it into a tub with substrate. But the all in one bags are already good to go & don’t need opening until 100% colonization
@@grantswishes420 really? If you want to know, my setup is, 1. Small grow tent 2. Heat lamp for reptile enclosure 3. Joined to a temperature switch which turns the lamp on and off 4. PVC pipe table I made myself. 5. Stick on led lighting strip with remote I use small box Tek like your video and after colonisation I've never had a problem. I use old cakes and shred them in a cheese grater and then spread it through dung, Coco cour substrate. Never had a problem. I started with one print and have been going for a year. Thanks for your vids
@@Josh-rn1em Hmmm...I don't use any tent or similar enclosure. I just use a plastic rack in an open room with ambient light. I find that I get great results using the small holes. I have experimented with a variety of hole sizes and no holes at all. In my environmental conditions here in the PNW....the small holes seem to provide the best humidity/fresh air ratio for strong flushes. I just present the method that works best for me, but I totally believe that other methods work great in different climates.
@@grantswishes420 I guess it's all about what's best for you. It's winter where I am and keeping it 26C is only possible with the lamp. It's completely set and forget. I check every few days but don't need to. I just like seeing how it comes along. Then fridge in water for a few hours to fruit
@@Josh-rn1em yeah...totally agree. I've had to make small adjustments here and there to keep temps and humidity dialed in. I've seen setups that defy my understanding, but they totally work.
I have gone without light completely, and still got mushrooms, they actually came out a little more potent then the ones that grew with a light. But either way will work fine man.
so you mist and fan until you see pins then don't mist at all anymore? I see a comment below that says you don't mist again or dunk until 2 or 3 flushes. If I don't mist at least once a day my surface is dryer than the sun. How are you managing to keep flushing without?
I only mist when the sub is fairly dry to the touch. I live in the PNW and the air is moist and cool so my sub stays moist for longer. You can mist more often than I do without doing damage, but it's generally a bad idea to mist when you see new pins forming.
Guys look into Martha chambers. Fairly cheap to make a nice look. Doesn’t require much space. Easy to assemble. Self automated. Soon as the substrate colonizes you just throw it into the chamber.
@@grantswishes420 I've yet to get to a tub yet, im on 5th transfer to agar as a noob and still no Rhizos. Figured at 4th transfer I was OK to start 4 jars awhile waiting for isolations on jelly for later. Pretty much dont know what contam even is yet, been lucky working over the oven door lol. Getting excited to see these jars take off, just knocked em yesterday with a full jelly cup each. Gonna have to keep looking for smaller totes, I was figuring 2 jar per 15qt tubs that I just grabbed.
@@ripptydevibes2581 tomentose is fine lol rhizo is a result of less nutritious agar/substrate. If you have strong tomentose isolate it and move it to bulk
@@deepdeception7953 Thanks for the reply. I took this advice about a week ago and have jars that are nearly complete already, due to my 5th transfers of VERY fast tomentose lol. And man, the jars are complete Rhizo! I was first confused that you needed rhizo to be able to identify down to one specimen, but I do remember it was alos easy to identify separate colonies in tomentose, at FIRST. But now, Im probably down to an isolate on tomentose, cause it just grows FAST and you cant see any variation indicating multiple colonies anymore.
David Barry soak the mycelium bricks in purified water, so basically just take a spray bottle of water and go ham. Just want to make sure there is enough moisture present to maintain a decent humidity level
@@grantswishes420 Or you put the grain spawn into the tub, then the substrate and then mix it with your hands by using sterilized rubber gloves. Then add a substrate top layer. Not need for that layering bullshit.
Keep it in dark until spawn finishes colonization, then add to spawn to the (bulk) substrate and put it into the dark until it is fully colonized and begins to form pins at this point, light isn’t crucial (mushrooms aren’t photosynthetic) but 7ish hours a day is recommended to help pin growth/direction
This is not the "easiest" tek for a beginner. It's a great tek to attempt after you get the basics down and have a fundamental understanding of how the process works. I recommend using PF Tek for a few runs because you have a greater margin of error to work with and still receive decent yields of clean fungi. Working with this Tek requires a SAB (still air box) and clean transfer technique. If you don't have the gear already and you don't have knowledge of the process you will end up doing a lot of work that will ultimately become contaminated and be thrown out. Once you see how the process unfolds and can gauge the life cycle of the spawn to substrate transfer and then the substrate to fruiting time period you will have great success with dubtub tek. Good luck bro! It's very rewarding to do this on your own, but patience is really the highest virtue here.
Would it be reasonable to add a full 10cc into a 5lb all in one bag for my first grow? I know it's about 2-3cc per jar or bag usually. But since I only plan on one bag is it ok to use it all? I've read the more the merrier but now I'm also seeing people discuss the possibility of oversaturation. Am I better off using maybe 5cc and discarding the rest? Any tips and knowledge is appreciated.
You shouldn't use more than 1-2cc for spores. With LC you can use more because it colonizes it rapidly, but with spores you have a week for contam to grow before the fungi does.
Keep it really warm and moist. I watered them every other hr a day and kept them next to a heater. If it dries out, fill tub with some water and throw in a dark environment for a while. I had a tub dry out on my so I kind of drowned it in water and put it in closet, kinda forgot about it but when I looked at it a few weeks later it had grown mushrooms. I was pretty surprised because I had no hope for it. lol
Theres a video on RU-vid. Gordo tek. He makes a 1hr+ video explaining you the beginning and end of everything. But, side pins arent that hard to complicated to remove.
Fungi do not perform photosynthesis. They don’t use light to grow and thrive. HOWEVER they are photosensitive and that can induce the fruiting process. Light is required but not as much as you would think say with plants. Which require a lot of light to thrive and produce.
@@grantswishes420 Back to your video from my next batch, I can say that brf cakes in this setup does work. Doing bulk/grains now! Thank you for the content!
Don't mist pins never an pins only form when u have 99% rhumity ,once u have pinn set allformed then u can move to fruiting ,this is all from rabbit ,strong light ,humidity an gas exchange witch is not free air exchange ,two different processes ,gas exchange is evaporation when the sub strait dry out shrinks ,with all 3 factors will pinning take place ,good luck🍄👍
@@maineoutdoorsman677 good to know. I don't mist my tubs at all myself, but some people in a forum I use recommend it. I just dunk my substrate after 2 and 4 flushes. Then I toss the sub usually after 5 flushes. I don't use anything beyond natural light in my space and I've not had a problem with pin setting. Temps seem to be the most important thing to monitor in my setup. 75F is ideal for my monotubs (I run monos mostly).
1:1 seems to be ideal. Most folks use this technique because of how quickly it produces fruits. In my experience, you get a very fast colonizing period and they begin pinning soon thereafter. You could go as thin as 1:4 if you have a "dubtub-appropriate" container large enough. Just make sure you are pasteurizing your sub at that point. Lots of opportunity for contams when you begin to stretch your spawn out that much.
Some people have great success with bucket tek....I am not one of those people 🤪😂😭. I bake my sub in a deep foil pan at 180°F for 180 min. I find that gets my sub clean enough for my spawn to colonize ahead of any potential contams.
Mike Rodose 😂😂 I’m a beginner and I’m trying this method this time cuz my first try got contam had to throw it all away 😪 but since I have 2 lbs of grain does that mean I use 2lbs of sub?
I find that measuring by volume instead of weight works best in this application. I would do quarts. Just match spawn to sub quart for quart. If you are gonna use bucket tek... break the pieces down very fine so the water can easily penetrate your mix while it is at its hottest. Obviously, the water has to be hot as fuck to kill off the bulk of contams.
Either I have a gift, or myco-cultivation is way easier than I was lead to believe. I got a spore syringe two months ago, and tried four different methods. They ALL were successful! Is that unusual? I was really good at finding them in the wild, in my younger years, but NEVER tried growing them, before.
I don't. I use 56qt monotubs most of the time. People just wanted to see how to make dubs because they wanted something with greater yields than PF Tek, but they weren't ready to mass produce grain spawn for monos.
I also use 54 qt monotubs but had some single qt jars i wanted to spawn and not g2g so this tek was perfect and after 2 days ive already seen mycelium pop thru the casing layer. People are complain in the comments but I love it because you make it then leave it. Its super easy. Just like mini greenhouse monotubs.
I don't have any official light schedule. I find that just keeping the ambient light in the room is enough to trigger pinning and induce the phototropic reaction that allows for a uniform canopy.
Sure thing bro. I keep my workspace at a steady 75°F for all stages of growth and it works well for Psilocybe cubensis. With dubtubs constructed in this manner you don't need to worry about humidity because the holes drilled for FAE and the dome type design will keep humidity at proper levels for colonization and then fruiting. You just have to make sure to remove the tape on three sides to achieve that "clamshell" effect I described and then fan the tubs a few times a day only once you see pins. For P. cubensis you should make sure your fruiting tubs get several hours of ambient light a day. They don't need a certain type of grow light. Just scattered sunlight from a window or lamp is sufficient. The light is helpful in triggering pinset, but doesn't encourage larger or more potent fruits.
@@grantswishes420 hello man i have a problem about temperature because i live in a tropical country which my temperature goes like 85-90 farenheit can cubensis grow in this temperature?
@@grantswishes420 also when I’m lettting the spawn colonize in the substrate , I’m not supposed to let it get any air until it’s fully colonized and ready to fruit correct?
