A foolproof way of doing it (i'd still line up the timing marks though), is to mark the pulley and the old belt, put the same marks in the same place on the new belt, with the same number of teeth between the marks, fit the new belts lining up the marks on the belts with the marks on the pulleys. Helpful video, just bought a 696, belts last done in 2018 so i'll be doing them soon. Done loads of timing belts on cars over the years, you never loose the feelings of dread when you first fire it up.
7500 miles or 5 years which is my case. I purchased an 11 year old bike with less than 2000 miles on it. Thank you for the tips on removing the covers. When changing chains or belts on other engines, I usually mark the teeth on the belt/chain as well as the placement on the pulley/sprocket in case there is movement of them. Count the teeth or chain links on the old and transfer that to the next belt/chain. That way the timing will stay true as long as you make sure you don't have full rotations of the pulley/sprocket. Just another way.
Thanks for sharing this. I’ve got a 795 and just spent quite a large amount of cash on the Desmo service 🤣 still don’t think I’m comfortable doing it myself but it’s great to see you going through the process.
it might sound stupid to u guys but what if lets say hypothetically i bought a monster and changed the belt with a chain timing chain specifically what stops me and doesnt it make more sense ?
Do the spark plugs have to be taken out? I assume its just to make it easier to turn over. Also, how necessary is marking the belts if the cam gears themselves are aligned and marked. Thanks!
If you use the method I used to turn the rear wheel to rotate the crank, then taking the plugs out is necessary. Now marking the belts, I won't be doing that again as the cam gears never moved.
Thanks for video. Forgive my complete ignorance but am I right in assuming that in order to change the horizontal and vertical belt covers all I would need to do is follow your video up to the 3 minute mark?
Thanks for the video gave me the confidence to have a go, I struggled getting the rear wheel in the air, in the end 2 bottle jacks and the stand on the very back of the engine. What was the reasoning for that as I thought as long as it goes back in the same place does it matter which position the pistons are in? Tension wise what app did you use as you didn't say and what was your reasoning for 99 hertz?
I basically abandoned the tension tuning app due to my concerns that it wasn't accurate enough. I instead choose to check the belt clearance via running a 6mm allen wrench between the belt and tensioner on the horizontal cylinder and 7mm for the vertical. 99 hertz was the spec the manufacturer of the belts recommended the belt tension be set at if utilizing a frequency tuner. I wasn't satisfied with this method.
how the belt holding up so far and how many miles hv u put thru it? My Duc due for belt replacement soon and im thinking of getting one from cycle motors but im not too sure since its made in PRC
I have put just over 450 miles on the new belts. I've had no issues and I'll be purchasing the exact fit timing belt again in the future when the appropriate servicing time approaches.
I don't think you want to be using a screwdriver to pry against the face of your tensioner pulley, dude! You could nick/scratch it and cause premature timing belt failure. There is probably a different way recommended by Ducati. Informative video though, thanks!
