Changing the cross pipe to metal is a good idea, but I cannot count on most mechanics to do it, neither do I feel is strictly necessary. What I will not do is to place all the screws on the air filter housing , one wrong move and they fall everywhere and will take 1/2 hour to find, unless you use one of those magnetic parts pan. I remember the old days when Chevy have a cast iron thermostat housing to replace the aluminum one and the T stat cost about $6 in the 80s held with with just 2 bolts. This is still better than some Caddy T stat that takes 4? hours labor to change.
Thanks for the video! Just yesterday I was working on replacing the serpentine belt, pulley and belt tensioner. Broke the same exact part; same exact spot. Electrical tape is holding it tight until replacement part (68189075AE; Vapor Canister Vent Hose or Evaporator Tube) comes in next week. Almost 95,000 miles on my 2014; will be keeping an eye on the engine temp and plan on replacing the thermostat soon.
Awesome, thank you for part number, please do check the temps and post it back here, I really want to know, but I heard about this issue over and over from many dodge/Jeep owners. Let me know what your engine oil temps up 30 min in to the drive. Thank you
@@SuperPete276 I was anywhere between 177F and 188F today (ambient temp was about 34F). Do I need to worry? Cabin heat is not an issue and the gauge it one tick over the 1/4 (which I think it has always been).
you are fine, my oil temps were 155-165, meaning coolant was 150'sh, thats low. Now after replacing thermostat my oil is 195-200, thats very normal, we are also in 30's right now. thank you
@@SuperPete276 I am worried about not being able to get to 195 - 200.. Maybe it's close to failing but not failed just yet. Will keep a close watch and probably swap it (when it gets warmer a bit). No issues with bleeding the system after the swap? Read it can be problematic and 'special tools' should be used instead. Looks like you just ... added more coolant and let the system do its thing?
Keep an eye on it, but it takes good 30 min of driving to get oil to full temps. I had no issues bleeding air out. After a drive next day after car was cold, I opened radiator cap and added another cup of coolant, but I had no issues driving and gauge was right on, half way between center mark and one below.
Pete great video The Dorman crossover is a great upgrade I am still running my pentastar on 151k with the original abs plastic one . I will upgrade that soon. When bleeding the air from the coolant I use the bleeder screw on the thermostat housing it works really well. Thumbs up great video keep up the good work
I have a 2017 Durango RT 5.7 engine . Have the check engine light on, pulled the code at home and yup same code and reading. Operating under regulated temp . Difference for me is that I originally got real high on temp and Durango was letting me know on the dash that it was hot . Pulled it over parked , towed home . Got a new thermostat put in and was still running hot when at freeway speed. So gutted the thermostat to be completely open but now the check engine light but it runs fine ? Does not run hot . Should I just get a new thermostat? Or leave it gutted and open ?
after you swapped thermostat housing, you need to make sure you get all the air of the coolant system, ofter air is trapped inside the system and causing airlock and overhear. on the thermostat you will see plastic screw on the top, when car running unscrew it a little and let air escape wait until you see coolant coming out of it. make sure to run the engine until your fans kick on so thermostat open, unscrew that top screw again slightly make sure only coolant coming out of it, no air
