You are a life saver, however I left the holder hole 10mm in order to keep the holder strenght, tapped 10mm in the head, but for the 10M bolt went to the machine shop and from the bolt head 17.5mm were cut down to 8mm and a 30degree radius was added to the bolt head bottom, holder hole was cut as well to the same 30degree angle. Main thing is to make sure the bolt is not too long, but as well to have enough thread engagment. At the end torqued them down to 35NM
Tap the bolt hole to 10mm . It doesn't need to be drilled because a 10mm tap fits lovely. Then make a 10mm to 6mm bush . Locktite it in then use a 6 mm Allen head short bolt to bolt clamp down. Iv done more than I can remember
I had a broken bolt inside, tried to drill it out with the tap for original M6 1.0, tap broke, after getting more troubles with this mount, decided that there will be no games, only correct procedures...
Nice fix - When I have repaired these - I have noticed that the rocker cover hole dont always line up with the holes in the cylinder head - I see your 10mm cap screw must be awkward getting the injector and clamp back into the hole? Even a smaller bolt can be fiddly.....- Also some C and E class clamps can be of different geometry - I use this method only if someone has previously helicoiled the bottom or broken a tap inside....... have lost count howbl many black death CDI’S I have attended to.... keep up the good work....!
About the rocker cover holes not lining up with the cylinder head, Mercedes says temporarily leave the cover loose while first temporarily attaching the fuel lines and then torquing down the injectors. The injectors line up the cover and hold it in position for cover final torquing. Then undo the fuel lines from the injectors again and reattach the rest of the items...
The clamps are counter sunk for the original bolts. I’ve done all four of mine on my om646. All you need to do is drill clamps to 12mm if you using 10mm bolts and they work perfectly.
A year in the beginning of March 2021 I took out the bolt and the injector, because I thought that injector started to leak, but found that everything was in perfect condition. The car has 180k miles and engine has all old pump, all pulleys, everything is old and making noise, so I thought that the injector was leaking, but no, injector was fine.
I had my original M6 screw break off flush with the cylinder head so I could only drill and tap down that far. Now, I just started the car and that injector is blowing by. I DO NOT want to to break the rocker cover and strip these new M10 threads... This is where I am. I will use a split lock washer first, though, and let y'all know how it works.
Hi! Have a same problem, M6 screw is broken inside. I would like to make a new thread M10, do i have to drill first a bigger hole or I can just start threading M10? Thanks
Look in messages down here, there's a name of a kit that you need to buy to restore original bolt thread, it was name" laser" they make a kit for 100$ with special drill guide, drill bit, threaded inserts.... www.ebay.com/itm/Laser-Tools-Injector-Clamping-Bolt-Thread-Repair-Kit-Mercedes-Benz-CDi-6958L-/173397239031?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&_trksid=p2349624.m46890.l49286&mkrid=710-127635-2958-0
Don't try m10 until you tried restore original bolt thread. After dealing with broken bolt, if m10 you'll have to drill out the clamp to extremely huge size so m10 bolt can have huge play inside clamp, bolt will have to loose some body thickness to allow play and to be able to assemble injector clap bolt separately, otherwise you will have problem with disassembly later... Restore to original mounting hardware!
I think I have the same problem with mine right now, we have gone to 10mm, and when start the car seems tight and clamp seems tight, then when turnover the engine leaks out and play with injector does this seem like the same problem you had?
Until I enlarged hole in a holder so the bolt doesn't make a holder to stand in I way... Just look at original mount and how it secures the injector. Also I had to torque the bolt more than 6mm. I also used split washer to put a load on a bolt so it acts like a spring. But I suggest to get laser tool kit that helps to repair the problem with original bolts...
@3.28 The English word your looking for is : chamfered /ˈʃæm. fər/ or /ˈtʃæm. fər/ is a transitional edge between two faces of an object. Sometimes defined as a form of bevel, it is often created at a 45° angle between two adjoining right-angled faces.
