In my forty plus years as a service engineer I would say I have removed maybe 50% of bolts like that but normally they are to tight to knock around, if you have a bolt that is snapped a good way down the hole a good trick is if you have a Lathe get a socket cap screw the same size and thread as the snapped one put it in the Lathe and drill a hole through the centre then put it in the hole were the snapped bolt is then using the same drill bit drill through the snapped bolt it allows you to get the dead centre you can then put penetrating oil down the hole and use an easy out. I always keep a selection of different size bolts ready to use works a treat.
I've never encountered a broken bolt stud that could be unscrewed that easily. Usually the studs break because they are stuck so tight that the force required to loosen them is greater than the strength of the bolt.
I think this bolt clearly snapped under use, and not while trying to disassemble it, if it was corroded stuck, this method wouldnt work. Unless he heated it up and broke the bond, and got enough corrosion solvent in there over time then this could work, but then it would be easier to just weld the bolt, as that adds both heat, and a way to turn the bolt again..
and one more thing, he used tap and blow pressured air on scrapped aluminum, not a good way of doing it in that situation, those scaps might have entered the engine even with the cloth there
Показан очень сложный случай - обломок свободно люфтит. Вот, если, обломок чуть прихватило коррозией, или на герметике - тогда, вообще, раз плюнуть!)))
I generally go with the concept that if it is liquid it cannot be stuck. 🙂 Seriously, anybody who is working with steel bolts in aluminum castings should be applying an anti seize when assembling the parts. It will also help to prevent stripout when tightening the bolts.
Китайские болты ломает при стягивании . их просто отрывает. Эта процедура работает. Конечно лучше просверлить левым сверлом небольшое отверстие и забить в него шестигранник
Это просто фантастика. Жалко что такие заломыши встречаются в одном случае из ста из за того что это был говноболт. Обычно это прикипевшие, приржавевшие или обломанные из за того что не по резьбе закручивались и вот там всë это не работает. А вот удаление такого заломыша как в видео я бы и снимать постеснялся.
@@user-gh7rg8wp6e ну верить или нет это твоë личное дело. Так и живи считая что в России все в говне живут, тогда глядишь своë говно меньше вонять будет. Удачи тебе, дружище.
Application of HELICOIL and punch-walking are two old-school crafts that were taught back in the early part of the industrial revolution. Schools used to teach these principles but technology has all but buried these common since crafts. My dad raised me in a machine shop, so He taught me these principles. I learned about HELICOIL application at my railroad career, and it's SO GOOD to watch it demonstrated on a free-to-watch video to the world! THANK YOU for your video !!!
I normally use a center punch to: A. Shock the broken bolt, THEN: B. use a left hand drill bit and SLOWLY drill at the center punch mark INTO the broken bolt. MOST of the time, the bit will bind into the broken part and back it out for you. If not, then you can use an extractor in the hole made by left hand drill!. TIP: A bit of grease will catch the shavings and keep them out of the engine.
Bolts usually break because they're seized in. This bolt came out much too easily. The thread was even loose. This isn't going to be the case, most of the time.
@@johnsolenski140 The bolt in the video didn't even need a drill. All it required was a punch to extract it. Hardly much of a challenge. The first half of the video about fitting a helicoil, wasn't even mentioned in the video title.
Господи я на одном дыхании смотрел эту очень сложную операцию по извлечению сломанного болтика. Хотя мне показалось когда он дул воздухом тот болтик сам уже начал выкручиваться. Одним словом мастер своего дела
This solution is effective only in one case: when the bolt breaks off while being tightened, and when it does not rest against the bottom, after which, usually, the thread “unwinds” and changes pitch if the tightening was carried out without observing the torque. therefore, you first need to make sure that the thread has not “unraveled” on the broken edge. otherwise, when turned out, not only the pitch, but also the alignment will be destroyed on the upper remainder of the thread.
He covered the chain so it couldn't LINK up with other parts and laugh at him if he messes up, that might start a CHAIN reaction😆. Yeah I don't know why you would only cover something then blow metal fragments all over.😵
To install a helicoil you have to first oversize the hole , thread and then put in helicoil. for the second bolt only one in a thousand will come out this way. A left hand drill bit will remove some and in the other case a small drill and an easyout will remove the bolt. If not drill out the hole with a slightly larger bit and either tap to larger size or tap and install helicoil.
I'm assuming the bolt broke when tightening because no corrosion is present. Nice presentation on Heli-coil prep and installation. This person is well-experienced on proper tapping procedures of aluminum, backing to break chips and clearing chips before they score the new threads. Nice video!
Парень с длинными ногтями - ты лучший! Такой херни я давно не видел. Ключём ты болт обломал, а кёрнышком так спокойненько, не напрягаясь - тук, тук - и открутил! Молодец!
Hello, Thank you for the video. It was very informative concerning one method of removing a broken bolt and in this case in an aluminum casting. Using a punch to screw a set of threads on out the way they were going. I used to be a machinist in a Ford road truck dealership and removing broken bolts was part of my purpose and I did remove hundreds of them. I just want to bring up a couple of points. Point 1: It is seldom you get a broken bolt that will come out like you have just shown in this video. Most of the time, the reason the bolts are broken is because the threads are stuck in the threads the bolt is put into. Removing any broken bolt, I used to always try to use the method you have demonstrated first as it is the easiest. When I have tried what you have shown and the threads are stuck where they will not screw out, I try taping strait down on the broken bolt to see if that will break the threads free. If not, I will put some heat on the broken bolt and going forward, there are more invasive ways to do that will come next. Point 2: In the video, you attempted to surround the place where you were working with a cloth to keep from getting savings down in the head which will ultimately get into the crank case. You did good putting the rag around where you were working. But, the next thing you did was take an air line to clear the trips away where you could see. Well when you used the forced air, you just blew all those shavings and chips right up under the rag. Not Good.
a 50 cc engine not the same as a 350 F150 eh get a drill and left turn cutting edge be done . as for tapping I use duct tape and a good rag . keep the chips out . seen the same thing there goes the crank bearings lol
Exactly what you said, my experience is the same as you described, and also to keep shawings under control I use grese besides rag precut shape to fit snugly around the place which needs attention. This is pretty much untipical. Also lefthand drill bit is of great help.
да ты просто чертов гений!!!как я жил до этого ,засверливая обломок и пользуясь левым метчиком,чтобы его выкрутить?все -зря...но теперь то я знаю,как надо и легко выверну все обломки,не напрягаясь со сверлением..почему я не знал этого раньше?
Great trick that almost never works. Only when the screw is completely free of contamination and corrosion and is not deformed at all. A little galvanic corrosion or rust or oil sludge and it doesn't work. If the bolt is cross threaded it doesn't work. If it is bent it doesn't work. If it breaks in tension, the top few threads are usually deformed and it doesn't work. If the screw is stainless it doesn't work. If a steel screw is threaded into aluminum, it doesn't work. I could go on. If you have actually tried this trick, then you have probably resorted to drilling and using an ez-out or welding a stud, or drilling and re-threading to a larger size, or drilling and heli-coiling, which is what you see him doing on the first of the two holes. Probably because the simple trick didn't work and he resorted to using a drill and drill guide to remove the bulk of the bolt, then a dental pick to try to pick out the remaining pieces, then ran a tap into the hole, found out that the thread was shot anyway, then bored it over, tapped it, and put a heli-coil it. Note that you can see the stub of the broken screw in the first hole before he starts tapping, then there is a cut at 1:47, and turns the tap back out and the screw piece is gone. These RU-vid tricks and "Next level process" videos always make anyone who has actually worked in a machine shop or repair shop roll their eyes back in their head. When you see "life hack." "next level," or "simple trick" in a youtube video, it should set off your bullsh!t detector.
I have used the hammer & punch or chisel method many times. I was born before easy-outs were invented & I couldn't afford a welder. What I have is patience and tenacity.
@@savage22bolt32 Yeah, I’d agree. This is all you need a lot of the time, and is the most basic method so you need to learn it first! On teaching it to apprentices I’ve often heard “ah, would never have thought of that!”
RIGHT ! Jeremy Hicks is 100% right. When the trouble is a broken screw...OK, sometimes it works, provided you got enough room for the maneuver. If the hole is too deep it won't be possible. In that case you must use a carbide drill and make a hole right in the broken screw. But when you got a broken tap...which usually is stuck, matters become more complicated. You get the job done if you have a tap extractor. Not a cheap chinese stuff as it will brake easily. The Walton stuff may be the right option.
Many years ago I had a stud break just below the surface of an alloy engine block. The guy who saved my bacon took a short length of mild steel flat bar, drilled a hole near one end, slightly smaller than the stud diameter. He then TIG welded the bar to the broken stud through the hole. He then just unscrewed it, the heat of the weld also helped free up the corrosion which caused the breakage in the first place. My broke stud was held completely tight... the method shown here would never have worked.
Thanks for the tip. I'm no longer a mechanic and I used to do the same for hummv cylinder heads. But it doesn't work most of the time. I would use left handed drill bits too.
What good does it do to cover the top of the tapped when the cuttings are are falling down into the engine? oh, I see the air will blow everything further in.
I have had numerous old cars with rusty water pump bolts that like to break off and those reverse cutting drill bit will usually get them out especially if they arent stuck to bad and then I use stainless bolts when I assemble and use anti siege compound and they always do good
My good friend, I can assure you that if that bolt had heat seized in that casing, no amount of tapping it with a punch would get it to loosen up. I also love the way you use your circlip plyers to remove the bolt, what happened to your long nosed plyers?
You could use a drill bit that runs counterclockwise to drill a center hole in the broken bolt. If the bolt is loose enought the drill would back out the bolt.
Thank you I just broke one of the bolts off the magnita on my pushmower working on the flywheel. My homeboy let me take the bolts off and the first one I took off I broke it LOL
Вот это по нашему. Закрыть (местами) тряпочкой и ...Раздуть( а не пропылесосить) всю стружку по всей "башке" (гбц). Лайк за солидарность в технологиях "срача". (Шутка , хотя...)
@@odinochka42 Нам бы славянам немецкой чистоты и точности .... Смотря этот ролик, сам себя поймал на мысли что и я, такой же" чисто плотный" моторист.Ведь сам уже в дв.ЕР -6 (BMW) ронял сухари клапанов в канал цепи привода ГРМ . Потом сутки искал, пока не нашел .
@@odinochka42 На эту тему есть Байка. При встрече в Тегеране Сталин задал вопрос Черчиллю : "Что Вы думаете о Русских воинах? " Ответ Черчилля был : Вы ,русские - единственная НАЦИЯ ,которая упорно создаёт себе проблемы и... с не меньшим упорством их решает."
I've used the same trick myself. I used a masonry nail as a punch with it being very thin, sharp and very hard. Take your time and care don't mash the hole or the end of the broken off bolt up.
Depende donde este El birlo capado Si es uno que esta en el múltiple de escape O si esta cerca de paso de agua que se haya oxidado Par esos son diferentes formas
The first one might happen once or twice in a life time.the second one I've done 3or4 times in my life,works when your lucky enough that the stud is loose in the thread.
Мне больше всего понравилось выкручивание болта пальцем! Ну и, конечно, надо было в двигло ещё пару щепоток стружки и какого-нибудь мусора насыпать. Для надёжности!
Simplest way is not to break the bolt in the first place. If it feels tight, apply a little heat to the bolt head only. Cool with air line and repeat as many times as necessary. It usually works after the first couple of applications.
I encountered this very same thing on my 1979 morini 350 when a hardened trunion (rocker shaft) stud snapped flush with the head. My dad who was a marine engineer taught me this exact same method using a small sharpened punch and it worked!!
I see this video was just over eight minutes long. Good job tho . But if you have never tried left hand drill bits you will be greatly surprised by trying them. This would have took less time to do than it took to put the bit in the drill . But you did great your way also . Thanks
В самых тяжёлых случаях, не прибегая к электроэррозионному методу, именно из алюминиевого литья, сталь можно вытравить раствором 15 - 20 % АЗОТНОЙ КИСЛОТЫ. Не концентрированной, иначе будет происходить пассивация. Температура имеет значение. при нагреве реакция происходит быстрее. Я делал так: По возможности, глухое отверстие располагаем вертикально. Обезжириваем, делаем вокруг буртик из пластилина. Медицинским шприцем с иглой заливаем раствор. Протекающую реакцию заметно по выделению пузырьков газа, раствор мутнеет. Отбираем раствор тем же шприцем, заливаем новый. Я вытравл метчик часов за 12. Алюминий практически не реагирует с азотной кислотой, резьба ни сколько не пострадала. Обязательно держите на готове в ведре раствор пищевой соды, мало ли, вдруг кислота куда нибудь попадёт ! И доступ свежего воздуха, пары вредны ! Всем полных баков, стригите ногти.
You are creativity It's true I am a new subscriber to your channel and this is my first comment in this video that deserves all the appreciation I wish you success and lasting success, God willing and his blessings Your friend Hani from Egypt from Cairo
A lot of you don't seem to understand this was just to show you the technique, not what he probably would have done normally. It was just a demonstration, created for whomever might benefit. Now you know....
посмеялся от души. если резьба слабая и болт вкручен не до конца без натяга и не прикипел тогда да. но выкручивать надо не керном а заточенным эксцентриком маленьким зубильцем . если не идет сверлим по центру меньшим сверлом забиваем заточенный из твердого металла конус . с другой стороны конус заточен под ключ и выкручиваем не нарушая резьбу
Даже болт с убитыми гранями откручивали зубилом таким же способом.Наверное он первый раз столкнулся с такой проблемой и подумал-Матерь божья!Я изобретатэль!😂
Um parafuso quebra por excesso de força no aperto. Este está completamente solto. Quando quebra e trava, o melhor ( se possível) é furar o centro com uma broca fina, ir alargando o furo com outras brocas e por fim usar um macho de rosca esquerda.
Good idea, but left handed bits aren't very common. They're kind of hard to find, and I imagine they cost more than their regular right hand counterparts. Too, I'm not sure I could get used to sharpening a lefty. It would take some getting used to, for sure.
I don't recall ever breaking a lefty bit. I suggest a quality bit (cobalt, carbide, titanium coated at the least. Gentle pressure, low rpm, DRY, Very slight off center angle of attack. You want the bit to Bite and reverse the fastener. Screw extractior comes next if need be Good Luck!
One of the best ways to remove a broken stud is with a left hand drill bit. More often than not the drill bit grabs the stud and backs it right out. I have to do this almost every day taking stainless screws/bolts out of either aluminum or stainless holes and sometimes cast iron.
Exactly. Plus this video seems unreal. Left over broken bolts are rarely this loose in the thread. I saw an awesome method to center the bore exactly in such case: use a door hinge centering drill 'bit' to start the whole. Then you can use the left hand drill and easy out if necessary.
I've been working as a mechanic fifty years and breaking a bolt by over tightening often leaves the broken piece loose enough to work out this way. The hardest to remove are almost exclusively broken because of corrosion locking the threads to the aluminum. I would agree, using every possible advantage is the best way to least impact the strength of the aluminum threads.
Some people add a little bit of bearing grease in the shred collecting portion of the re-threading tool. This way it lubricates the cut and collects the material keeping it in that gap rather than it slipping between or rubbing into the threads.
Очень интересно.Сверху закрыли тряпкой,чтобы струшка не попадала на на детали при нарезки резьбы.Но стружка то падает вниз.Ребята-будьте внимательны,особенно,когда продуваете сжатым воздухом остатки стружки.Рекомендую вам,просмотреть ваше видио самим,как это всё вы делали.
Именно что трюк🤓прикипевшие и пережатые обломки такими ногтями не испугать. 1 как на видео - легкими постукиваниями керна 2 высверливаем, вкручиваем вывертышь. 3 привариваем гайку, заодно ослабляем зажим при нагреве 4 левым сверлом или переделанным обычным. 5 два отверстия и отверткой с пропилом или подобием ключа от болгарки 6 3х гранный напильник в заранее просверленное отверстие 7 специальным электродом, образующим на сломаной шпильке стержень Пс. Думаю, надежнее было высверлить, заварить аргоном и нарезать новую резьбу, а не ставить какую то х...
В бытность работы мотористом частенько отламывал болты (особенно у зил-120?) на головке блока , но ни разу при отломе, отверстия там не было, чтобы нарезать резьбу. И приходилось сверлить, потом забивать что-то твёрдое и выкручивать Ну или же иметь сверло, может метчик левосторонние.
O truque, afinal, não é tão simples como parece, caso o parafuso esteja bem firme dentro da rosca. E geralmente parafusos quebram justamente por estarem presos na rosca. A melhor maneira é usar um punção e marcar o centro do parafuso e depois ir furando com um broca fina (de widea, melhor) e enfim usar um extrator se necessário, já que às vezes dando reverso na furadeira (bem devagar) a broca "engancha" no parafusos e este sai numa boa.
The best way is to take out the whole piece and drill the broken bits with smaller drill bit on a perfectly horizontal surface. The way it is done here, there may be problems later when fasterning back the machine as the screw trade has been damaged. The method show here not in line with precision engineering.
Попробуй постучи кернышком по обломку шпильки в выпускном коллекторе двигателя, или по обломку свечи в свечном колодце. Экстракторы разного диаметра не дураки придумали!))
@@user-xr2ze6gv1w Может мы о разном говорим? Экстрактор, это такой винт с левой конической резьбой. Сверлишь в обломке отверстие нужного диаметра, ввинчиваешь в него экстрактор и ....
Обломок *болта* - далеко не то же, что обломок *шпильки:* в торце первого можно просверлить 2 отверстия под плоскую отвёртку с вырезом - а в торце второго придётся сверлить *осевое* отверстие для экстрактора (негодного метчика со спиленными на косой клин зубьями).
@@gewelryamator4252, напильники делают из ОЧЕНЬ хрупкой стали - У13А, которая ПЛОХО работает на скручивание: из трёхгранных напильников делали *шаберы...*
@@gewelryamator4252ну конечно. Я работал в АТП, в иструменталке был комплект вывертышей, однажды я взял такой со стола перепутав с обычным метчиком и так узнал об их существовании)
