used ECS's level 1 refresh kit and a new Radiator. Channel Merch! m3nacebuildcre... follow me: instagram: / quinnmclark outro song: / jo-cohen-sex-whales-we...
Id say the trans swapping is best i love that playlist lol i watch it like a anime series 😆 gtta ALWAYS re watch it imprint that in my brain for later 😎😎😎
Very thorough video on a very important subject. I definitely had cooling system issues over the 20+ years my family has owned my e36. I’ve had radiators pop, a fan clutch explode (terrifying), hoses burst, etc. I finally fully sorted my cooling system back when I did the head gasket with all new silicone hoses, upgraded water pump, etc.
@@MrBellyman128 no, not yet 🤞 I have auto crossed it several times (see my videos) in the Georgia summer heat without any problems. However, I don’t daily it like I used to.
Was planning on doing a cooling system rebuild after completing my auto to 5spd swap watching your vids. Finished the swap last week all went well and now you upload this video. Thanks man!
no all aluminum radiator, no metal fan shroud w/ electric SPAL fan, no metal expansion tank & no Stewart water pump. Summer is right around the corner = You're a brave man!
The aluminum radiators believe it or not don't hold up nearly as long as OE. In specific Mishimoto radiators you're lucky to get 2 years of driving out of if you really drive the car to its limit. The plastic housing for radiators much like everything else in a bmw will outlast aluminum radiators. And that's saying something.
Great job filming that tedious task as usual 👌 Looking forward to the next video, I'm a couple of weeks off bleeding my boosted e36 cooling system so will be super useful to see the correct process
Easily the best DIY video I've seen! Truly impressive how you can have such professional and clear video footage during this fairly involved procedure. For a simple coolant flush, is it sufficient to drain the radiator and the engine block (of course with the expansion tank cap off)? Or do I need to disassemble more components?
Draining the radiator and block plug are more than enough, quite a few people just drain the radiator and call it a day as it will drain the cylinder head as well, it just wont drain the block. Thanks!
Your videos are motivational and educational. Nice job and thanks! Just purchased stock 96 BMW 328iC in near mint condition with 72K miles. No issues. But no maintenance history either. No cooling issues and fluid is still blue. Belts and hoses look pretty new and in good shape. Not sure if I should change water pump and thermostat. Thermostat cover is aluminum.If you think I should, I'll check pulleys and tensioners too. Oil was not bad but I changed it anyway. Power steering was an issue. Fluid black, Resevoir original including hoses and steering stiff. Flushed it twice and much better. Planning on flushing again and changing resevoir and hoses & this weekend. Let me know what you think on water pump and thermostat. Thanks again.
I would, doesnt take much time if you're already in there and its piece of mind. Last thing you want is to do all this work refreshing only for the thermostat to stick 4 months down the road and turn your fresh 72k mile motor into a rod-spinning milkshake machine.
I would, doesnt take much time if you're already in there and its piece of mind. Last thing you want is to do all this work refreshing only for the thermostat to stick 4 months down the road and turn your fresh 72k mile motor into a rod-spinning milkshake machine.
@@M3NACE Change out the Water pump, themostat, radiator, expansion tank, Coolant level sensor, hoses, pulleys, belts. Added new Bmw coolant. Bled system and no issue with temp gauge. Dead center. However console tells me to check coolant level. Any ideas?
Very nice video. Well documented and thank you so much for no crazy camera shakes and music ovelay! Question: you tighted the thermostat housing for the aluminum kind at 89 ft-lbs! Just confirming things, per the manual, which is for the plastic housing OEM, its 10nm (7.3 ft-lbs) just confirming the differences because of product material. How/why 89 ft-lbs?
I prefer to drain everything through the radiator (running the system with the heater on high) or through the water pump hole (if you’re removing it anyway and the car is not on jacks). That block drain plug is just bad design and messy.
Hello internet, I would also like to rebuild me intire cooling system like you did. But I for the love of god can't find them for 320i??? (Every site I find just goes from 318 to 323/5) Anyone knows where I can find one for 320i? (And delivers to europe wich is aperently not always possible for a car that was litteraly made in the country next to mine) Thanks alot.
Awesome video man! Couldn't have came at a better time. I just got myself an e36 and this is definitely on my to do list. What are some signs that my cooling system is failing? Because so far it seems okay, but I don't want to put it off for too long
If the thermostat housing is the plastic one assume it needs a cooling rebuild since previous owner may not have taken care of it, if metal u good, just make sure belts and pulleys are ok
these cooling systems really sneak up on you. first sign is leaking, residue on the hoses and from fittings and such. on the radiators with plastic side tanks, they will start to leak. if the thermostat or water pump fails, youll be driving and out of nowhere the temp gauge will climb to red and if your unlucky, that will be the end of your head gasket, and maybe even crack your head. no fun.
Yo man whats up, can you tell me if the relay for the windows is located under the glove box? I washed my car when i was done i turned the car on and the windows didnt want to roll down.
This is great man. I'm about to do this exact job with the stage 1 ECS kit, but wasn't planning to replace the radiator unless it looks real bad when I pull it out. Is there a specific reason to replace the rad if it's not leaking? thanks!
i ususally just throw a new one in for peice of mind, they do get clogged over time and can leak from the plastic end tanks. i replace it so i dont have to down the road.
M3NACE thanks for the reply, makes sense. I’ll probably replace mine since it has to come out anyway. Love the videos man, you’ve really helped me out a lot! 👍👍
How do you ensure the water pump doesn’t spin without coolant? I keep hearing if you run the water pump without coolant it will break its mechanical seal.
M3NACE because after the drain, there would be no coolant, so it makes me wonder how the water pump survives in the initial start up because the T stat is still closed.
@@projman2155 the water pump will not break its mechanical seal without coolant in it. it does use the coolant as a lubricant, but it can run without it for a brief period of time without coolant without hurting it. the water pump is just a machined piece of metal with an impeller, shaft, mounting flange and housing. it doesn't care if coolant is there or not. i would be more worried about properly bleeding the cooling system than about the water pump breaking on start up, it will be fine
My water motor is struggling to keep still when I used the e36 clutch nut and the 32mm wrench. Should I take off the 2 bolts like you did to get better rotation, or could it jus be the rust ?
Yeah it came with an 32mm wrench and that’s what I use to try and turn it, but I think that could be the problem. It tends to jus slide and not actually screw it off